idosubaru

Read and reread the section you have a question about - it's probably answered. If it's not answered - then it's something that doesn't matter like electronics, DOHC 2.5 verses SOHC 2.2, ECU, transmission, none of that matters. Don't make up questions on your keyboard, get in the garage and follow this: This is for EJ22 swaps into an EJ25D vehicles. EJ25 = dual overhead cam engine found in: 1996-1999 Legacy and Outbacks 1998 Impreza RS and Forester The following are plug and play, easy swaps into those vehicles listed above: 1. 1995 EJ22 with EGR (all 95 automatics have EGR - impreza or legacy, doesn't matter) or 2. 96-98 EJ22 with EGR and the EJ22 exhaust manifold. (again legacy/impreza doesn't matter) 3. 1995-1998 EJ22 without EGR but with an EGR equipped EJ22 intake manifold. There's a simple vaccum hose rerouting to make it think it has EGR. There's a thread in USMB for that. It requires sourcing a separate manifold and block and that hose rerouting so often not a good fit but in some cases it is. Exhaust: Usually get the exhaust manifold with the engine, but in general, any 96-01 single port EJ22 exhaust manifold will work. 1996 is single port exhaust (95 EJ22 and EJ25's are dual port), so that's why it is needed. Exhaust manifold bolts right in place and you have to unbolt it from the engine anyway to remove the engine, so it's no extra work really. EGR: Have to look to determine EGR for certain. Automatics usually have EGR - but not always in 1996-1998 so it's wise to check. If you don't care about a check engine light (in states with no emissions and check engine light isn't included in inspection) - then you have other options as well: Basically - any 1995 EJ22 or any 1996-1998 EJ22 with exhaust manifold will work, again legacy/impreza doesn't matter. More specifically: 3. 1995 EJ22 without EGR (manual transmissions don't have EGR in 1995 4. 1996-1998 without EGR and again get a single port EJ22 exhaust manifold. ______________________ General notes: swap the EJ25 flexplate onto the EJ22 engine. some evap stuff is different in later years...easy to work around, search and someone put a link here if they find a good thread. just swapping/managing vacuum hoses, not a big deal. automatic/manual does not matter. in 1995 automatics have EGR and manuals do not - so "auto/manual" is simply an indicator of EGR in 1995. but automatic/manual by itself is meaningless and doesn't matter. Car runs perfectly fine, plug and play without EGR, but you'll get a check engine light which some states don't allow. In states where it doesn't matter - ignore the CEL and run it forever without issue. EJ18's can also be swapped into an EJ25 easily: 1. remove the EJ18 intake manifold 2. install a knock sensor (the hole is already there and tapped, just unused) 3. install an EJ22 intake manifold - it bolts right up, identical bolt pattern/gaskets At this point the engine is just like the EJ22's listed above electronically - plug and play. Use any EJ18 1990-1996 - they are all dual port exhaust, same as EJ25D's. I think they all also have EGR so you'll either: A. want an EJ22 intake manifold with EGR or B. use an EJ22 intake mainfold without EGR and just block off the EGR hole in the head. Make a plate to cover it up or cut the EGR tube, crimp it, and weld it shut, or weld a small metal bead/ball into the EGR tube. This will give a check engine light though when installed in EGR engines, like EJ25D's. I have never attempted swapping an EJ25 intake manifold wiring harness onto an EJ18 intake manifold, unsure if that's possible or no. Again - use the EJ25 flexplate

Can you describe that a little more - did you see that in oil fill tube, when draining oil, on the dipstick, or under the engine/crossmember? Also what vehicle - 1998 Foresters have the Phase I EJ25D and 1999+ Foresters have the Phase II EJ25, those two engines have distinctly different failure modes/symptoms. "external leaks" only applies to 1999+ 2000+ (and 99 Impreza RS and 99+ Forester) factory installed HG's leak externally, the oil seeps past the headgasket and eventually drips down on the ground, rear crossmember, and/or exhaust like other fluid leaks in an engine. They can leak oil or coolant. 2005+ models being more prone to oil leaks. They get worse veeeerrrrryyy slowly over time. keep topping them off and they easily run 50,000 miles or more miles without issues. you can basically run them as long as your tolerance for checking/topping fluids and/or smoking oil off the exhaust allows. Nearly 100% of factory installed coolant leaking EJ25 headgaskets will be cured with Subaru Coolant Conditioner at onset. Oil leaks haven't found any cure, just replacement. *** Previously replaced headgaskets have varying symptoms and can exhibit overheating symptoms like the older Phase I 1996-1999 EJ25D's. 2000-2002 EJ25's had an extended 100,000 mile headgasket warranty. High percentage repair used by folks very familiar with these engines goes like this: 1. resurface the heads 2. use EJ25 Turbo headgaskets

the subaru OEM axles are robust, run them, replacing them would a downgrade. clean, regrease, reboot with Subaru boots. i've even cleaned up, regreased, and rebooted noisy axles and they work flawlessly with no noise. it would surprise me if the old noisy axles, if they were Subaru OEM, would outlast new aftermarket axles - aftermarket axles are that trashy. i have 370,000 km on the originals on a slightly lifted outback and 270,000 km on a lifted XT6 with original rear Subaru axles. and this is the norm, not the exception - it's nearly pointless to replace them. a lot of parts are far more likely to fail than the axles.

3AT's do have some repair points that might be simpler? look into those, a mechanic likely won't know about those 3AT's. governor or vaccuum or some part that goes out on them... www.car-part.com

he's talking about modifying it, i doubt he's selling it...but i have a 1995 Legacy sedan Ej22 i'm looking to get rid of.... can't really modify it - it'll be almost entirely novelty. so the bad news is the there's no performance gains to be had, the good news is you can do whatever you want! exhaust - sure. intake - sure. lightweight crank pulley - sure. synthetic fluids - sure. lower weight wheels - sure. drill out holes in your bumper supports, discard unecessary weight - sure. you just won't see much improvement. if the torque converter isn't fully seated you'll crack the trans oil pump and need a new transmission. if the trans is a 1/2" from the block then something is in the way or not lined up correctly - the engine needs to be at an angle and lifted up some to line up. trans comes out at an angle and needs to go in at one as well. parts in the parts wanted forum here or www.car-part.com

Are you guys having issues with OEM SUbaru gaskets - they work fairly well so far for me. It is crazy how much exhaust gaskets deterioriate.

Gates kits on Amazon are $130 for everything timing copmonent related. Subaru OEM water pump gasket. Reseal the oil pump and tighern the backing plate screws - one or more are often loose.

i have a set of rear struts that are supposed to fix this - i got them from someone else but never used them. i think they're like 2002 WRX rear struts, but they have no springs or tophats. I'm not sure if you can just install your current springs/top hats on them....or.....? i'm not very familiar with suspension swap stuff.

+1. at $15 - $30 each and reboot a used Subaru OEM axle, aftermarket are excellent if you relish breaking down and working on the same part multiple times.

yep, HG's. yeah these fans are really wonky and run a various RPM's due to a rather complex algorythm.

yes it could be something else. yes it could be total failure. if it's a sensor usually the AT or POWER light will blink 16 times at start up. 1. does the light blink at start up? 2. what is the fluid level sitting at? 3. is the fluid nice, new, bright pink or something else? 4. if you move the shifter lever in the cabin - does the corresponding cabling on the passengers side of the transmission move properly too? 5. does the inhibitor switch seem to be switching properly? 6. are there any check engine lights? 7. is the transmission pan dented? 8. any prior trans work or accidents? 9. if you leave it in drive and rev the RPM's a small amount and leave it in drive for 1 minutes - does it eventually go into gear? 10. if you turn the car on and off a few time and keep moving the selector - will it go into gear? 11. when you move the selector by hand - does hte corresponding selector range on the instrument cluster change? did it work great one day then the next it didn't go into gear at all? what's the story?

it would seem like fans, but i've seen H6's with bad headgaskets do the same thing he's describing. when it's under those conditions pop the overflow tank and look for bubbles. not 100% telling but worth a peak.

that's a couple dollar easy fix - Auto Trans X. alternately install a used transmission, www.car-part.com might need to search around to see what other years are compatible, but should be able to find a relatively inexpensive option.

seen the exact same thing before. sometimes they can even only do it during the summer - which i don't get as the engine temperatures are rather static - due to the thermostat. they can get worse very slowly and be driven a year or two sometimes. as they get worse, they get worse faster if you know what i mean. eventually you'll start loosing coolant and need to refill weekly - then every trip. symptoms will remain largely the same and progress to overheating at idle too. core charges are usually really low - $50 for the last 2 smaller/older/cheaper 4 cylinders i bought. $200 is not surprising.

you're sure the two orings aren't leaking, very common. you used A/C orings and an appropriate size? i'd replace: schrader valves hoses (rarely fail and easy to replace so used is reasonable fit sometimes)

right on Dave - it may have and then jiggled loose while liting/poking/prodding. and thanks fairtax -i did turn the engine and TC a bit to move things around as well.

it dropped out, never heard it though so not sure what the final aide was. the engine lift legs were int he way so it must have fell wiithout me seeing it. lifted the engine, moved it around, ran a magnet back in forth under there.

Dropped a TC bolt down the bellhousing access hole of a 1999 EJ22. Trying to help a friend get his car back on the road tonight....this doesn't look good. I heard it jingle a lot - so I assume it went down a ways. I lifted the engine, tried looking with a light and ran a magnet all underneath the torque converter - no dice. With all the noise it made I'm surprised the magnet didn't get it... Do I really have to pull the entire engine again? That sounds absolutely miserable....

www.car-part.com for engines jdm places like jdmenginedepot has them for $1,000 - $1,500 as well.

ECU's are a dime a dozen. Post on here, surely someone has one. or www.car-part.com LSD's are 3.7 final drive ratio unless you find a converted one. Transmissions in this era are either 3.7 or 3.9 - which is yours? 3.7 final drive transmissions can just bolt a standard 3.7 final drive LSD in place. ; 3.9 then you need to swap the LSD chunk into your 3.9 diff. it's really easy - there's a write up on here on how to do it. If you mean a newer EJ VLSD rear diff - then the answer may differ.

replace the PCV valve - that may reduce crankcase pressures and mitigate leaks. very, very easy to do and cheap. timing belts are easy - you can do a belt only in less than an hour. i almost never do just a timing belt, because it makes sense to replace the pulleys, tensioner, reseal the oil pump etc while you have access. but it's not hard at all. gates kits with new belt, pulleys, and tensioner are only $120 on amazon.

jack the rear wheel up so the control arm falls down and you can use prybars/an additional jack to push and pull things in place. i would get a new bolt or chase the threads - i would imagine the threads are mangled and unusable. it's a standard bolt if you have access to any other Subarus. i think that's a 17mm bolt which would be an M10x1.25 thread bolt. same as every other 17mm bolt on the car. if it's a 14mm then it's M8x1.25, but i think it's 17mm. in general that lower bolt is easily installed - nothing to it, no spring compressor needed and you don't have to mess with that axles or rear diff at all.

you can sell the engine needing headgaskets, probably better if it's never had the bluedevil in it. a guy on youtube ran the stuff in an EJ25D which has the same exhaust gases pushing into the coolant failure mode. it didn't work. maybe it'll buy you a day or a month or 4. how much for the engine if you sell it to me before dumping the magic goo in it? i'll be in atlanta next week Tue-Thu if i had known sooner maybe i could have brought an EZ30 with new headgaskets in it and sold it to you/taken the old one.

no issues, drive it and don't worry about it. no worries about the Duty C or clutches. The clutches certainly shouldn't see any issues - they're not connected to nor is anything being driven by them, so they're not doing anything. if you're that worried about it - install the matching rear differential and be done with it. www.car-part.com or someone on here will sell you a rear diff. auto's usually have a 4.11 or 4.44 final drive ratio, maybe 3.9's were available too. 4.44's weren't available in 1995 or earlier Subarus.

it's the headgaskets. (which can cause no coolant flow) clogged radiator radiator cap fans