idosubaru

good research and testing already, well done, you don't give yourself enough credit. a clogged radiator generally has very specific symtpoms - not random. So it'll overheat uphill or only in the day and not at night - it's notably cooling load depending. the only test i've done is to pull the radiator and run hose water through it - it will flow notably less than a non-clogged one. but without another radiator around to compare it too that may be an abmiguous thing to determine. look for bubbles in the overflow tank - even right after you turn the car off, check it multiple times - is there a slow source of bubbles in the plastic overflow tank? original headgaskets on that engine usually fail externally - they start seeping and progressively get worse externally. internal failure of OEM original headgasket is very rare. but of course prior overheating if significant enough can cause any symptom if it's bad enough. you did the proper check - the block tester will tell if exhaust gases are pushing into the coolant. usually only a symptom of older 90's subaru engines or non-OEM headgaskets or frequent overheats of the kind of engine in your car. That it had only water in it suggests something more ominous or maybe that's common there where it never gets below freezing? that engine also requires a bottle of Subaru Coolant Conditioner. with only water it may not have the conditioner and i dont' know if the conditioner "requires" coolant to work properly...probably not? either way - if you get it fixed be sure to add a bottle, $2.50 at the dealer (well everything is more expensive in Hawaii so maybe a bit more).

check for bent valves (leak down test or install timing belt and compression test or just run it) may get lucky, but don't count on it - they usually bend valves. used heads is the easiest solution. 1999-2001 EJ22's are the only EJ22 heads that will work. (available on 1999 legacy and 1999-2001 impreza) i think you can also use 1999 Forester EJ25 and 2000-2004 EJ25 heads if you swap the exhaust manifold to dual port - otherwise the valves/heads are the same. unfortunately the 99's are annoying, the 1998 heads are unbelievably easy to swap, 6 bolts per side and no valve cover/cam stuffs to remove. super easy...but not your 1999.

well first - CLAP CLAP - round of applause for getting them out of there! those shim over buckets are no fun! better yet - grind your existing valves. grind the "back side" the side that's not touching the cam lobes so you don't have to worry about that face in terms of hardening or wear.

coolant leak radiator clogged radiator cap not sealing - either the cap is problematic or the radiator neck won't alllow a proper seal headgaskets thermostats are rarely an issue but you can throw it in a pot of boiling water and test if it's opening/closing properly water pumps almost unheard of what brand HG's were used? were the heads resurfaced? add coolant conditioner with the new HG's?

no. the 05+ have valve train changes (VVT or VVwhatever the other one is). something along those lines. the earlier H6's won't have those components/sensors. i'd look into swapping short blocks: bolt the 06 heads to the 01-04 short block if the 06 heads are good. it's a lot of work but so is an EJ swap. or see how close the wiring is and just move pins such that it'll accept the 01-04 ECU. sometimes the wiring is similar enough that just changing/swapping a few pins might essentially convert it to an 01-04 H6 configuration so to speak. i haven't heard of or looked into that yet though, so i'm uncertain of the feasibility. a glance at the ECU wiring pinouts for both FSM's (which are all over the internet for free) would tell the story.

the one a friend drove got worse over the course of a year in terms of popping out of gear and synchro issues. Any 1995-1998 (and 99 OBW and Legacy) manual transmission will work if you also grab the matching rear differential. And probably, someone else can confirm - any 1990-1994 transmission as well. two differences that are not issues: 1. cable and hydraulic clutches are easily interchanged, just swap the bits out before installing the transmission, it's all external. 2. bell housing bolt number changed in 1998 - but i doesn't matter you can swap 4 and 8 bolt bellhousing transmissions. MT's are either 4.11 or 3.9 final drive ratio - that's the only two major differences in 1995-1998 (& 99 OBW/Legacy). All Ej25's, like yours, are 4.11. EJ22's are 3.9. If you want to get one with the same 4.11 final drive ratio then get a manual transmission from any EJ25 vehicle - which for 1999 and earlier basically means any: OBW or GT - since those always have EJ25's. or LSi's with EJ25 (though i'm not sure LSi's ever came with manual trans and EJ25). I don't think every year has an LSi or LSi with EJ25 option, but if it is LSi with EJ25 and manual trans - it would be the same. 1998 forester and impreza will work too but probably rare. *** 1999 auto trans went phase II - if that also affects MT's - then 1999 Forester and Impreza RS may not be interchangeable or may require a bit of extra work in terms of wiring/speed sensor. They are Phase II in 1999 (legacy and outback are not phase II in 99 so this doens't apply to them)

Try these two tips: 2000+ OBW and Legacy axles also work - just knock the outer tone ring off (tap it off with a hammer) and bingo - it installs just like the original axle. And 2000+ axles have the more robust boots on them, the outer boots have more convolutions and last much longer. If you want those boots - order boots for a 2001 outback. i've never installed these later boots on older axles - sounds like maybe Imdew has? www.car-part.com has billions of axles for $10 - $30, just have some shipped to you. i do it all the time, it's nice having a part sitting on my door step - saves all the time driving, waiting in line, having someone go find the part...or worse yet go remove it...etc. i spend very little time in a store or yard. Alternately - to answer your original question: All 1995-1999 Legacy and Outback are the same. All 1995-1999 Impreza and Forester are the same (and I believe later too - but unsure when they changed). you can search for 1999 impreza axles on ebay, google, car-part.com and see what years also fit that way. do the same for your Outback. of course that won't lead you to the "knock the tone ring off" trick, but will tell you some others that will work. Yes, Subaru boots will last longer. I've been using Beck Arnely boots for years and sometimes they break in 20,000 miles, I'd get Subaru boots unless your time isn't that valuable and you'd rather save $8.

Mostly likely scenario is that the work was compromised. These motors have to be approached in a specific way. 1. what brand headgaskets are being used? 2. is the Subaru torque procedure for headgaskets being used? 3. are the heads being resurfaced? The answer to one of those questions is likely not in alignment with the best approach to this engine and that's the answer to why the HG blew twice in a row. Ideally you also tell us: 4. how badly did the car overheat the first time the headgaskets failed? 5. were the HG's ever replaced before you owned it? Highly unlikely. That engine doesn't crack heads. The only way that's possible is if the car was driven under extremely abusive overheating conditions. You haven't said that it was so we're assuming it wasn't. not feasible. the wiring and custom work would be extremely cost prohibitive. it easily "bolts in" to the engine mounts/transmission, but it won't run until all the wiring and ECU are fitted which is intensive and probably beyond the scope of what your mechanic would even be willing to do. not to mention, 6 cylinder engines are starting to have more and more HG issues themselves.

are they the same boots as other front hand brake calipers from later Subaru's?

yep, just turn it back the same way it snapped. some will be loaded and wanting to let loose, but no big deal. granted i've done a bunch, but those dual over cam head engines are not that hard there's just two more sets of lines to keep lined up, a drop in the bucket compared to the overall job. i've done the belt only in 45 minutes before on rust-free DOHC subarus.

we either have too little information or a terrible diagnosis. EJ22's rarely need valve jobs so unless there was a thorough diagnosis done that's likely incorrect. sounds like you have a misfire- if so then just fix the misfire, valves are a possible cause but they're one of the less likely. 1. how did the mechanic determine it was valves and not something else? 2. is the check engine light on - for misfires? then you need to find out why it has a misfire. plugs, wires, fuel injector, coil pack, igniter are all way more likely than valves. maybe it just needs the valves adjusted? that's like $100 but not all EJ22's have adjustable valves. at some point it should get a complete timing belt kit - $115 for Gates kits on Amazon so you have all new belt, tensioner, and pulleys. does the exhaust manifold have single or dual port exhaust? that may help us. if it does need valve work - i'd just swap in two used heads. those heads are so unbelievably easy to replace it should not cost much at all. you want a mechanic to give you a proper quote on it though. most Subaru headgaskets are a lot more work - and are also very common. you're very likely to get quoted for the higher priced headgasket job when yours is much easier. $150 for a set of used heads. $300 for parts and a few hundred for install.

that tool is definitely not needed but if it helps you personally the first time doing it, then by all means get one. with the timing marks all lined up - you just pull the belt off. there's no risk of damage. if one of the loaded cams snaps out of place - just rotate it back in place. it's that simple. just don't have your knuckles close to it when it snaps (like if you're turning it with a small 1/4" socket and it wants to let loose while turning) - you can loose some skin when they baby rips.

in general - list it in the classified section here or subaruoutback.org - someone may very well buy it as-is.

email me at my username on this forum @yahoo.com. How many miles and general condition, engine work notwithstanding.

another option, which is the best IMO, is to buy a used Subaru axle and have a shop reboot it with Subaru boots. www.car-part.com have it and new boots shipped to your mechanic of choice and you've got a one-stop-shop solution for quick repair. probably end up costing less or the same but better end product. probably a step up from random choice but i don't know that Subaru remman is as robust as OEM Subaru axles.

What he said. I know of a dealership that won't work on 80's Subaru's. Service manager said they have too many problems, granted it's a very urban environment in a large city in the rust belt and not a very nice part of said city. Bolts shear off, parts break due to age/corrosion/rust, repair becomes a debacle and people cry and want to sue. Or as Gloyale mentioned they've seen so many years of neglect that you know you're going to "repair one thing" but the car is going to have 10 other issues down the road and you have very low chances of having a good customer experience. A mechanic wanting a good reputation and longevity for repairs/customer service is wise to know the market and tread carefully. Most older Subaru owners are cost conscious with their purchases and maintenance, not an ideal customer for a mechanic.

good point - these ebay companies often allow you to call and change a particular part as desired, they'll of course price adjust accordingly.

thanks again for sharing that - good to know that's something to possibly check. woah - the build up was clear visually and externally? crazy. what's that from i wonder.

any oil based product - whatever can of power steering, lawn mower, or whatever oil, power steering fluid you got laying around. it's just to lubricate for proper torque. i wouldn't put anything on it, never have, but i can understand wanting to. i would change the entire tensioner. the hydraulic mechanism is prone to failure probably more than the pulley. i've bought lots of kits with GMB stuff. i think there's some discussion as to one of the idlers having double bearings verses single....but i forget the particulars. if you replace the water pump - get a Subaru gasket, the aftermrakets are flimsy.

No need to count teeth. Cams lined up, crank lined up, install belt, and you're done. Counting teeth and lines are not needed, they're just aids to verify. I thought 135 was more like a final torque value...i think the "degree" procedure says to torque to something like 40 ft-lbs then rotate a certain number of degrees. 135 ft-lb is about the torque value for installing it without the "degree" style method. i never use that for crank pulleys - just make it really tight with a 3 foot pipe over your socket and it's not going anywhere. crank is cast iron, unlike the aluminum block, yo'ud have to have no sense to strip it.

search for FSM's, they're everywhere, i've got a bunch.

All Subaru crank pulleys have been 22mm since the 80's (and maybe longer). No special sealants or grease anywhere is required. Oil pump gets Ultra Grey or Anaerobic (my preference) or your favorite equivalent. If you have any loose backing plate screws on the oil pump - you can put threadlocker on those and tigthen them. Probably particularly important if you don't have a really good screw driver. My impact driver is high quality bits that grip the screw heads like perfection - amazing how much more it will tigthen than any standard screw driver (without using the "impact" functionality.) Properly removed seals don't require sanding. Properly removed/installed pulleys shouldn't crack either. I wouldn't worry about it - you sound careful, timid, and like you have time/won't rush or guess at solutions. They crack when people try things that don't work out so well. I've cracked one...and I was attempting feeble ways at holding it in place. That said - these water pumps and seals rarely leak and the oil pumps rarely have issues as well. I see no issue doing the timing belt only and then plan on doing the water pump/seals the next time if everything is bone dry now. You could do the oil pump seal first - since that's the easiest one. Check the original seal - if it's dry, hard, brittle and not supple like the new one - you may use that as a suggestion to go ahead and replace the cam seals. If the old seal is pliable and in good shape, then skip the cam seals. I never remove radiators for timing belts. Maybe for a first timer, but they're really not hard at all. Sounds like you'll have time and be plenty careful. Tape a piece of cardboard over it instead. Yes - replacing seals is a bit of an "art". 1. removing and tigthening the cam bolt - they are TIGHT. use a rubber strap wrench to hold it. 2. removing the seal - easy does it. Have you look up Gates kit on Amazon? I think i'd lean towards those before the Mizumo kits, having bought quite a few of them. The PCI parts are fine, but I wouldn't pay a premium for those myself.

at $600+ parts/rebuild pricing a used/known good transmission is starting to sound tempting.

sometimes you can get a used one for $200 or less if you end up needing one. if you pulled the transmission then you shouldn't have any problem installing that yourself later if need be.

it would have been nice to diagnosis before pulling the trans - it may be tough now. Two reasons suggest the VLSD may be good: 1. It didn't run in FWD - they fail to a "locked" state so with the shaft removed it will run FWD. This only works if the VLSD has completely failed, which they usually do. Yours didn't do that so it either: a. hasn't failed b. has an abnormal or early failure mode 2. there's flakes in the gear oil - suggesting bearings, not VLSD. the VLSD is replaceable with the transmission in the vehicle, so there's not an enormously compelling reason to do it right now IMO. nice to properly diagnose and get it over with of course if it's done though. there may be a way to simply engage it by hand/tools and see if it's locked insitu? the mechanic is correct - it's a sealed unit and no way to disassemble it.