idosubaru

I would avoid DNJ headgaskets, though only because they're unknown and it's too much work to gamble. Subaru and Fel Pro are the go to gaskets makers of choice. Cheap ebay specials are known to leak, though I can't verify that DNJ's are "cheap ebay specials". If you already torqued it down, it is standard practice to not reuse the headgasket due to the way in which they're supposed to crush and seat based on the torque procedure. But if you don't mind re-doing the job again then try it. If they are cheap headgaskets on heads that aren't resurfaced, and you don't mind doing the job again, just chance it and see what happens. Simply line up the headgasket holes on the block holes to determine correct fitment. Pay partiuclar attention to the lower corners where there's a pressurized oil port in only one of the corners. Many don't use sealant because it's not called for by Subaru or needed. Properly done on a good engine the head gasket will not leak, so it's unecessary, kind of like asking "why not clean my grass blade with Windex?" Without overheating, turbo failure, and with proper maintenance these engines easily see hundreds of thousands of miles without headgasket issues.

I reseated the main connector, inspected the sensor contacts, they all look solid and good - i'll slap a multimeter on the pinouts. Oh please tell me cleaning the idle controller does it if there's no obvious things to test/check!!!

automatic. good call, but doesn't do it enough to test it and rev it up to high rpm.

did the same thing with two different tensioners. new belt. so far the 0340 seems to be from: 1. an artifact of the stalling due to the idle control valve - it's now clean so time will tell 2. it's possible i installed the wrong cam sprocket (Phase II's having two different varieties) - but it ran fine for months before starting to stall, i think it would have stalled immediately after installing the wrong cam. any other suggestions?

P0340 - cam sensor I pulled and cleaned the idle air control valve. I'm hoping the valve was sticky - causes the familiar "stalling while coasting" symptom - then that stalling causes an odd signal for the cam sensor that triggers the check engine light for the cam sensor. Seems speculative and possibly not going to be the case. I'll report back if the check engine light comes back again after this cleaning.

1999 EJ22 with 90,000 miles in great condition as far as I know. Car drives fine but sometimes stalls while coasting. Classic idle control symptoms but it always has a cam sensor code after this happens?!?! Replaced cam sensor and timing belt tensioner and still does it. Cleaned idle control motor today. What else?

+1

yes, completely different. impact drivers are awesome. but yeah, ignore that screw. why were you removing it?

never run out of oil or overheat them and they last as long as you care to. cheap, simple, reliable, they are excellent engines. an EA82T is laughable compared to an EJ22. **** There is a huge flag though. A torn down EJ22 is suspect. Since Ej22's never have issues unless they were overheated or run out of oil - what happened to this one that it needed torn down before 200k? That's odd, I'd wonder what previous maintenance was like and whether it over heated or ran low on oil. Friend found a craigslist special EJ22. Cheap and already pulled from the vehicle. I went to help him pull a blown EJ25 and noticed his craigslist EJ22 find had melted timing belt covers. it had obviously been overheated. i suggested leak down test before install. he installed it anyway and it had rod knock....from the prior overheating.

all 1995 Subaru front CV axles are interchangeable regardless of FWD, AWD, automatic, manual, left, right, impreza, legacy.

If you've driven it tens of thousands of miles then the final drive ratios have to match and that shouldn't be the cause. Which points to the VLSD (Center differential). Pretty sure it's a Subaru only part so if you get it from Ebay it'll simply be an online Subaru OEM parts dealer. Options are used or new Subaru unit.

Ah okay - it's not happening "during" long highway trips - but "after"? In that case, it's likely the front VLSD. You need a new VLSD installed. very roughly $500 parts, $400 - $800 labor. The binding itself does damage the drivetrain - it's putting stresses on the ujoints, rear diff, axles, and tires. That braking feeling you get around turns is all of those components binding up. They're resilient and it would take some time for something to break, but I don't recommend ignoring it for long periods of time.

If yo'ure still unsure of the diagnoses - I'd almost start over and give us a very clear description: WHAT is it doing WHEN is it doing it exactly Be specific and technical, not tell stories or have extraneous details. ALl we have is words so the better chosen they are the more we can help!

to the TB: 1. are the tires all the same exact size? 2. are any of the tires significantly different tread depth (new verses bald)? 3. different gear ratio front and rear differentials will cause binding while driving straight - and would indeed get really bad making up all that difference during highspeed driving. that would be caused by a transmission or rear differential being swapped from another vehicle (Impreza) with a different gear ratio. 3.9 and 4.11 are the two Subaru gear ratios of manuals. 4. the center VLSD could be on it's way out - are you experiencing any binding at all around town on tight turns? or it's ***only*** after highway driving? That 1/4 turn wheel bearing notion is doubtful to be an issue in your case so not a big deal to move on- it's torqued three digits and staked, probably not going anywhere or causing issue. But that doesn't mean it's a good idea, one-size-fits-all suggestions are usually weak and show lack of experience. It may help in some cases, but will hurt in others. It would not be recommendable on Subarus. Wheel bearings differ - applying a one-size-fits-all approach across multiple decades of bearing changes, generations, manufacturers, and styles of wheel bearings, axles, and axle nuts with varying failure modes shows a short a limited view and experience. There are vehicles with sensitive wheel bearings that would fail if you applied this approach. A more accurate saying might be, "loosening 1/4 turn on XYZ years of ABC model vehicles" is helpful. But if someone can't explain what vehicles a technique is good for and which vehicles to not use it on - they aren't very well versed in what they're talking about and you should ask someone more familiar with the exact platform you're servicing.

you'll never be satisfied if you want something that performs. if you're doing it for fun, to tinker and play, for novelty and to tell friends it's a beast, "all show and no go", then do whatever you want. it doesn't matter, the gains to be had are very minimal and not worth it unless you're "already in there" for something else so to speak. playing with an NA engine always leaves you wanting otherwise, ends up being a constant cycle, trying, more work, more money....like you've already done - it'll just keep going that way and never end. of course then a turbo engines opens up another obstacle....tweaking it - larger this leads to larger that leads to better flowing this leads to blown engines so you better get treated that, machined this....LOL decide "how much" you want - and go make it happen.

both, that's funny! get the one in better overall condition/maintenance? the non-turbo for reliability. the turbo for fun, project, tinkering if you do'nt mind the extra work turbo is guaranteed to need more work, maintenance, parts in the long run.

I may be charged too low or too high. What are the pressures? I would not jumper an A/C system to get it to run. I always replace orings and charge Subaru's without vacuuming or replacing anything. Subaru's routinely go 100,000 miles without issues. Subaru A/C systems are robust and rarely have issues. I never replace receiver/dryers in Subarus, though they're inexpensive so why not on one that's so old? While things can happen, and they may be more common in other manufacturers systems - they very rarely happen in Subaru's. Here's my write up with 14 pages of other people that have done the same over the years: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html So far not one person has come back to say they're A/C exhibited issues. Same here, I've never seen a failure after I've worked on a Subaru a/c system. I ***would not*** apply this approach to other less-robust systems on other manufacturers vehicles. I totally understand people who are scared or uber-technical and that has it's place. But realistically speaking there are plenty of people that appreciate an approach that's inexpensive and has a high percentage of success. All that being said - it needs properly diagnosed. what was the original issue? If the pressures end up not being the problem then look into 1. relays in the system 2. the a/c compressor clutch

use the P30 or better discount codes and you can get 30 - 40% off at Advance Auto Parts, makes buying online not worth it often times for me.

1. octane doesn't matter, i believe 1996's "required" premium, though the ones i've seen run fine without it. 2. Subaru says 60k plug change intervals. in general EJ engines do best with the OEM NGK plugs installed. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html 3. i doubt the knock sensor brand matters, but i'm sure one can get a bum knock sensor. Subaru insists on installing it at a particular angle and torque value - did you follow that? i've never seen that cause an issue though. 4. not that i've heard of, i would doubt that's the issue. i'd see what kind of gas mileage you get the first couple of tanks, that may confirm poor running. ideally you get a cable that allows you to monitor real time what's going on and you can inspect fuel trims, etc to decipher where it may be lacking. but that requires some effort and training. buy the right cable and download some free software and it can be done on your laptop. FREESSM i think is what most people use. as long as it has a MAF you can do whatever you want to the intake. i've seen people bolt a cone filter right to the throttle body before. LOL

check for headgaskets leaking. they leak externally from underneath and are easily spotted if they've started to leak. check for torque bind. if those are pristine and all the basic stuff checks you, you should be good to go. i'd set aside cash to replace the timing belt with a complete timing belt kit - they're $115 on amazon for Gates kits. even if the current owner had the timing belt replaced, that hardly matters since the tensioner and pulleys are all needing replaced by now too. if one of those fail you'll likely incur valve damage.

i'm sure you know this miles but Gates timing kits on Amazon are only $115 for everything. the DOHC belt may be a little more, but they're super cheap.

ha ha ha ha ha...really, it pushed the rear of the car up?!? wow.

unless the 99 has a specific part as mentioned above...maybe it's just not lining up right? i just installed one in a 1996 EJ25 Legacy and it was aftermarket. i was almost sure it was the wrong part, but once i got everything lined up it did indeed fit. there are very tight tolerances with the hoses, and it being tucked so tight to the body, the way it fits into the fuel filler area, etc. one millimeter off up top equals an inch down below so to speak. i would call/stop in and ask Subaru via VIN number what your part number is and cross reference that to 1998's to see what Subaru says. though that still may not be definitive.

i don't think you need a steering extension for most 2" lifts. i've never needed steering extensions for 2" lifts on XT6's. i think it may depend on how you do the lift. 1. most people just install the strut top extensions. in that case you don't. 2. if you install the strut top extensions and for some reason want to install drop blocks for the crossmembers as well like is done on 4"+ lifts, then the steering coupler needs extended.

Turbo Legacy and Baja's show Subaru isn't too married to having the turbo engines in the WRX only.