idosubaru

definitely fit the rims. you'll want to see if they'll clear the vehicle - strut bottoms up front are tightest space i've run into when installing tires too big.

Not recommended - also because the overheating episodes are also compromising oil and possibly lower end bearings. Rod or main bearing failure rendering the engine useless are common enough when headgaskets are left to fester. Would have been nice to know the first time around. 99 Foresters have a Phase II EJ25 SOHC engine which responds remarkably well to Subaru coolant conditioner when the headgasket leak is the typical/common external coolant leak. An oil or internal leak like you now have can't be touched by it though. That conditioner is actually required for that engine so if it's repaired be sure to use Subaru, Six Star, of Fel Pro headgakets, resurface the heads, and use a bottle of Subaru's COolant Conditioner.

the timing belts are way too easy to warrant pulling the engine unless you're bored or have a bad back and don't want to lean over the radiator support...but if it's that bad then i'd imagine you're not pulling an engine either? EA/ER timing belt can be done in 45 minutes and 20 minutes with no covers. rusty timing cover bolts are the main problem. reattach with zip ties so they're never an issue again or just run without them like many of us do. *** Any check engine light? *** Plugs and wires age and brand? check timing. if it's HLA ticking - though it seems like you know what that is and have ruled it out? but if it's HLA ticking then approach is this: 1. reseal oil pump 2. replace oil pump 3. reseal cam towers i've fixed 100% of EA/ER ticking by steps 1 & 2. #3 i'd suspect needs to have high mileage or abuse.

I've heard of people wanting DOJ style for that reason and i think they've converted them as you said. try a search if no one pipes up.

I'd find out what your cylinder misfire is before dumping money into timing belt. If it's a burnt exhaust valve, are you going to repair it? Yes, OEM is overkill and over priced. Gates kits from Amazon or Rockauto for like $125. Water pump gasket and thermostat should be Subaru only, the aftermarkets are visibly and notable whimpy.

Year, make, model, front/rear? Post a picture? The ABS won't work but it'll drive just fine, it'll just disable without enough triggers present. It's basically a wheel bearing job to repair it. Personally I'd fabricate some fix to install the broken piece in place if you still have it. Tack weld it or metal strip with small screws from behind (use something that won't rust). It's not particularly load bearing though it is rotating fast, it just needs held in place relatively sturdy.

This is a gray area because of the unknowns, there is no black and white statistically speaking because no one knows the condition of the rod and main bearings, clyinder liners, heads, etc. And there's no way to assess that without a complete engine tear down and thousands of dollars of labor - simply not cost effective. The only quantitative thing you could do is have an engine oil analysis done to see if there's significant bearing material in there, but few people ever do that and it's only indicative of what happened since the last oil change. So - knowing that it's gray you'll get varying opinions, here's what I would suggest: If I thought it was sold *because* of the headgasket issue - i'd be more tempted to move on from that engine (get a new engine/vehicle). You have no idea how much it was previously overheated or if they dumped some kind of sealer in there to try and sell the vehicle when it first started showing symptoms, etc. Sounds to me like the car has a chance of having been sold with known headgasket issues - the overheating happened soon after you bought it. I'd be a little hesitant and would move on from that engine. If I thought the headgaskets failed on my watch, it's worth considering replacing them.

How often and how long was it overheated? In general - if the engine wasn't overheated badly - fixing it is fine and not a big deal. It's a routine job done in enormous quantities every day. No big deal. That being said, there is reason to be concerned. The engine could have significant issues down the line - probably a low chance of happening. For someone in certain situations (a very busy shop, person, etc) I could see the hesitation in doing work on something unknown. They have no idea how badly the engine was overheated or if the story they're being told is entirely accurate. So of course some people are going to be timid.

no point in using the Blue Devil again. they probably installed low grade gaskets, this engine has headgsaket issues and only certain head gaskets should be used. Georgia is a miniscule Subaru market where mechanics don't have much experience with them. it's basically a roll of the dice. we have no idea how many heating episodes it's seen, how bad they were, or what it did to the oil/bearings in the lower end. if you feel like you didn't drive it in the red too much, then it's more than likely a good fit to fix it. use Subaru headgaskets and have them resurfaced. it's a large job for a first timer, but no special tools if you can keep track of lots of parts and have ambition to get it done. you can even do them in the vehicle rather easily if you simple jack the engine up a few inches (unbolt 2 lower engine mount nuts and the top pitch stopper). i wouldn't try to be Sherlock Holmes here - but if the engine overheated for some other reason (low on coolant) - then the high heat loads could of caused the head gasket to fail - and now it's causing the overheating. it didn't cause the initial overheating, but it did cause the following overheating. but it's equally likely they just failed, particularly if they were low grade gaskets.

if no leaks then have to go on performance if you're strictly looking for symptoms. for newer EJ stuff i don't think i've seen a leaking strut yet, but they were dead and had no dampening at all. i'm not sure what degrades or happens to struts as they age if there's no signs of leaks? there's no immediate need, it'll just put more stress on other components - tires, springs, mounts, etc.

mileage varies wildly - 60,000 - 150,000 depending on road conditions, driver perceptibility, etc. they can degrade substantially without failing/leaking. how do the struts seem now? how does the car bounce? when you hit bumps/holes while going over slight turns can you feel the car kind of "shift sideways"? any noises? leakage at the strut cylinder? if there's any symptoms then replacement would be a normal consideration. if no symptoms and they ride great then maybe you hope they last the life of the vehicle? that wouldn't be the normal approach but you'll definitely get symptoms if something starts to degrade substantially or fail, so you'll have a warning of some sort. if you think you'll be replacing them before you get rid of the car, then doing it sooner rather than later gives you more return on the new parts. new struts will prolong tire life and protect top mounts and springs, end links, etc, which take more of a beating if the struts are weak. i've seen all of those components fail on 2000+ Subarus with old/weak/high mileage struts.

there are off the shelf 2" lifts for 2000-2004 and maybe 2005-2009 generations. the fronts will be identical to yours. the rear I'm unsure about, have you done a search?

+1 are you sure it's a rear diff issue? that's almost unheard of. +1 WD40 does nothing. Use the stuff mentioned. unbolt everything so the rear diff drops down with the axles still attached. there's enough forward/backward left/right movement to disconnect the axles on 95-99 Legacy/outbacks. cumbersome working under the car with all that weight hanging there but that's easy to deal with compared to that lateral link bolt.

i'm not sure what happens when it's "locked". is the stubby shaft side or the one with the axle powered or "locked"? guess it's the stubby shaft and it won't matter, and you're probably right, but i'm uncertain. i've always wondered when torque bind happens - which axles are binding and does it change?

I posted in your other thread. Yes. Still need the outer CV joint in the hub assembly though.

1 The easiest way is to disconnect the TCU - the transmission computer. On most EJ's i've seen it's the silver box above your gas pedal. It'll be "locked" in 4WD so you'll have power. It'll drive a little gutless since in mechanical mode you'll only have 3rd gear, but no big deal for 3 days and a few miles. It will bind as Gloyale said above - not great for the driveline but for only a couple days be gentle and it should be fine. turning is what increases the binding. It would be best to remove both front axles to prevent binding but then you'd have no CV joint in the front hub - which you need. If you can disassemble another joint and stuff it in the front axle that would be the best. Or disconnect the Duty C wire. Same deal with binding is still an issue.

should be able to find free FSM's online. i think you're right on the money comparing the wiring harnesses and looking for TCU differences. CNY_Dave found one wiring change from 2002 - 2003 H6 transmissions he's mentioned a few times on here, it was the solenoid in the rear extension housing I think, not sure if it's still called a "Duty C solenoid" for H6 transmissions or not. Anyway, so that could be it, maybe there were other changes? May want to find his thread commenting on that. *** Just to be sure - is it possible the same problem you were trying to repair is still there and the transmission wasn't the problem to begin with? In other words - symptoms before trans swap and symptoms after - maybe both trans were good and something else was bad?

entire XT FSM is available on subaruxt.com

Good job asking here - got some great stuff on the table already! In person. Be consistent - stop in once a month or every other month (not annoying, just consistent and with poise) if you find a team, place, location that's a good fit/good team/convenient/etc. Emailing, calling, or showing up once and never again are what every one does. Don't do that General comment, but holds a lot of water. I see this all the time, like everywhere across many sectors of business: The better places to work are usually the hardest to get started in. The better the bosses, team, leadership, managers - the easier it is for them to hire and retain people. There's usually a long list of people wanting those positions. The places with the worst bosses, team, leadership, management are going to have the higher turn over and more openings and more likely to get hired on. This fuels the high turn over rates, particular with a generation that's increasingly demanding and less resilient. I can't tell you how many people I know that get excited about their first job and hate it. That's the norm. Like a crazy girl - available for a reason.

HA HA - yes - similar warm up - cool down/snow - warm up again we're having! GRRRRRR!!! Probably slightly over or under charged. AZ guy is probably off. Some are good, but there's little Subaru experience out your way, my fathers in laws mechanic in Canton (family of 8) for 20 or 30 years said he won't work on his new Subaru. The store guys usually apply general principles to everything. "Pressure switch". That's fine for a Taurus or other American car, but Subaru pressure switch failure is almost unheard of. Of course it's just a switch so anything is possible. If you take the system apart for a switch though - replace the two orings at the compressor and the schrader valves. For $5 the system will last the life of the vehicle that way once you're done. Oring failure is most common in my experience, schrader valves (which simply have an oring at the base of them) are common too. I think it's due to engine vibrations, heat cycles being that close to the engine. Those orings will be brittle as plastic and all the others in the system will be fine. It's always those two.

I would remove the rear half of the driveshaft and run it in FWD and see what that shuddering issue does before dumping any time or money into it. I've never seen a Duty C issue cause that symptom so I'm suspicious of it fixing it, though i won't rule out the possibility. Subaru torque converter failure is nearly unheard of, don't replace it without a definitive reason. do not remove the pan or eplace the "filter" inside the pan - it's a worthless screen that doesn't really clog or "catch" anything, it just keeps large particles from getting sucked up which then come out if you change the fluid. if it's clogged you have a scrap transmission with that amount of problematic debris. i've pulled them off of 200k transmissions and they're spotless clean. with year, make, model, and VIN the dealer will know which one it is. something isn't right if they said "7 different solenoids, we don't know which one". go to a different dealer or call one and have it mailed (the online subaru dealers are %20 cheaper than local too, subarugenuineparts, et.al.). you'll likely need the rear extension case gasket, i've never tried to reuse one. as to fixing it or not - i do not know. we know the Duty C is bad and that should take care of the binding. the shuddering is a shot in the dark at this point.

*do not get an aftermarket axle, they're awful. go to wwww.car-part.com and get a used Subaru OEM axle (green inner cup). i routinely get them for $25-$33. Get one for a 2000-2004 Subaru legacy or outback and tap the outer tone ring off the end (hammer and stout screw driver is all that's needed - just tap it off - the big ring with teeth on it). then it'll be exactly like yours but newer and have higher quality outer CV boot with more convolutions that will last longer. ***That being said, Subaru axle total failure is nearly unheard of. Two axles completely failing is basically impossible statistically speaking...unless you're offroading a 4" lifted rig with huge tires and locking diffs. If they were both aftermarket axles then maybe that's the problem, they're known to be problematic - though both having catastrophic issues is still weird. If they are original Subaru axles the failure you describe is impossible and something else is wrong - which is causing this. I'm wondering if the car has torque bind or some other binding issue - failing front diff - though then it wouldn't drift in park.

i would do everything possible to avoid removing those lower lateral link bolts. Unless I'm forgetting something they don't need to be removed to remove the rear diff. Remove axles first, remove complete rear hub assembly with lateral linkage from underside of car...pretty sure there's a few options to avoid that bolt, it's the biggest debacle back there. but yes - keep spraying, soaking, prying under the head, turning, etc to get it out. heat if you have it.

Zinc looks acceptable. Grade 8.8 i think sounds right, like many other bolts are that grade as well, though these things are hardly seeing any load at all.

They are M6x1.00 bolts for the timing chain cover right? What kind/grade of bolt am I looking for to replace the H6 timing chain cover bolts?