idosubaru

if it's not overheating then sounds like everything is working properly though your description of cold hoses sounds odd. was the sysetm carefully bled - coolant on those engines can get air bubbles - but that usually (always as far as i know) results in overheating.

it'll be easy in flatland, how many mountains do you plan to drive through? it can definitely do it, just depends if yo'ure up for the additional effort and care to make it happen. keep the weight down and you should be fine, how much gear/weight are you talking?

change the transmission fluid. 3 drain and refills is a good method many people use. it won't hurt the transmission. people change the fluid *because there is an existing issue* - and then it gets worse (many issues do get worse), so they blame it on the fluid change. might be possible with other vehicles, I do almost exclusively subaru work but it's not a concern here. fix your existing issues and then go from there, ask specific questions. a 1993 EJ18 can rack up a lot of miles, they're very robust engines. don't run it hot or low on oil and it should last as long as you care to maintain it.

1997 EJ22 is Phase I Subaru would be a slam dunk Fel Pro is probably okay - i think for 1990-1994 models the Fel Pro and Subaru headgasket are the same part. Unsure about 1995-1998 EJ22's.

1. test the alternator and see how much it's putting out. if tools are an issue advanced auto, autozone, etc all do it for free and can test it on the car. or take it in and they can bench test it. 2. draw a line across the crank pulley with a marker and see if the line separates after some driving. if the pulley is slipping then the outer part of it doesn't turn as fast as it should and the alternator also slows down, reducing output. how's the wiring connector to the alternator? battery terminals, cables, wiring etc - corrossion?

1. make sure it's full of coolant and no bubbles. 2. overheating while coming to a stop means check the radiator fans to see if they're coming on. 3. while unlikely to only cause issues at a stop, aftermarket thermostats are problematic in Subarus, they've very weak in design and have issues frequently. check engine, dash lights, etc?

Last night the DIFF lock would come on if i revved the car in neutral while coasting - happened a few times. So vacuum hose or the engine revving is tweaking wiring/solenoid i suppose.

1988 XT6 manual FT4WD transmission. DIFF LOCK is coming on while driving. The diff is actually locked and the light is on. The DIFF LOCK button works properly otherwise (meaning it'll turn off if the DIFF LOCK is off). Vacuum hose or solenoid/electrical?

i wouldn't even consider using that clamp on a Phase II EJ22 or EJ25, it looks exactly like some of the ones i used (valve side has no depth and will almost certainly bottom out on the head before compressing the valve enough. it simply couldn't get the right angle, depth, and there's very little clearance between the spark plug tubes and valves and head and valves, it's hard to get them to fit anyway - not counting the twisting and angling around stuff. there were a few valves it could get, others will not be possible or be a debacle if they are. or require fabricating somethign else like shawn said.

each of these questions is specifically geared towards telling us something specific about a bearing, front diff, axle, tire, etc: 1. is it always there at 1mph and 100mph? 2. engine or speed related (sounds like it's speed related - tires) 3. any smells - like something is hot? 4. is there much heat 5. differential fluid ever been changed? 6. how OLD are the tires? (not how many miles or tread depth) 7. front or back and left or rear? 8. does the noise change when turning at all? 9. any vibrations or feel at all - you said you just "hear" it? 10. automatic or manual? 11. if any automatic does the TRANSMISSION light blink 16 times at start up? 12. any check engine lights? 13. if an automatic (and not VDC) - does it go away if you insert the FWD fuse? my first guess on limited info is a bad tire. rotating them and seeing if the noise "moves" can isolate it. wheel bearing, torque bind... aftermarket CV axles are really, really, bad. i can't exaggerate how terrible they are. but as you can tell you haven't given us much specific information, more details will help.

H6's are excellent engines, much prefer them over the EJ25. no headgasket issues like the EJ25 - but they are not free from headgasket failures. they easily see 300k and are timing chains, not belts. no maintenance required on the chain and no issues. some early (01 and maybe some 02's) had timing chain guide noise...that's it. replace the serpentine belt pulley bearings (two of them) immediately when you buy the car. they have certainly failed or been replaced already for sure, they are notoriously problematic. the bearings are only $10 each, or $20 each for aftermarket pulleys that fit, or $200 for Subaru stuff and they only take about 30 minutes, maybe an hour for a first timer. if they haven't been done do valve cover gaskets and spark plugs at the same time - the spark plugs are an enormous job on this motor and much easier with the valve covers removed. transmissions are fine, change all the fluids and possibly the fitler - it's in the drivers side fender and about $30 from Subaru. outside of that - these things have no common issues really. i saw that one, indicators all look good for $3,900. the better the deal the quicker they disappear particularly doing tax season.

if it is the front differential you might buy some time by removing the front axle shafts and just running it in 4WD which will equate to RWD without any front axles. That woudl take the loading off the front diff and may spare it if you're planning on limping it along. you'd have to disassemble a front axle and leave the outer joint in the hub due to the bearings in the knuckle.

inner axle joint or front diff. drain the diff oil and strain it - through an old shirt or rags or something. look at color, metal chunk, swirly swirl flakes...post a picture if you can. check for play from side to side of the axle stubby shafts. the front differential is integrated into the transmission and therefore most folks replace the entire transmission. that being said, depending what is wrong with it, you could attempt to swap another front differential onto your existing transmission or replace the pinion bearings if those are the problem children and you can verify none of the carnage has affected the overall integrity of the rest of the transmission. and if it has input shaft bearing issues like other subarus, replace those while it's apart.

yep i've seen this before as well. smacking it with any force will mushroom the threads. got a freezer or cooler and dry ice you could fit it in? get it cold then heat up the hub with a torch. probably not worth the time... if soaking/waiting doesn't help, a machine shop with good heat/presses should easily be able to get it out in no time.

yes rear separator plate should be resealed and replaced with metal if it's plastic. ideally one replaces cam seals, reseals the oil pump (one oring and the crank seal and sealant), and tigthens the backing plate screws of the oil pump. timing belt off is the time to replace the water pump too. adjust the valves and replace valve covers is easy now too though it can be done with the engine in the vehicle. rear main seals never leak on subarus but it should certainly be inspected and replacement is never an awful idea, just be sure it's seated and installed perfectly - newly installed ones easily leak if not installed properly and with care.

pull the side timing covers (it's only like 3 10mm bolts, very easy) and look for belt cracking/wear. also look at all the bearings in the center of the pulleys - look for failed bearings - they will have pushed the grease seal out and be showing and the belt will slide over top of the seized pulley. other than that you really can't tell. replacing the belt alone isn't the biggest concern, at this age and mileage the pulleys are all devoid of grease by now. you can prick them with a needle fitting of a grease gun and inject a bit of grease in them - this freshens them up and costs $2 for a needle fitting and some grease. eventually the bearings fail, pulleys seize, belt slides over them, glazes over, overheats, and the belt breaks. replace it all. the best option is to install a complete timing belt kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400333159844?lpid=82 only $55 buys you excellent reliability. well worth it and they don't take long to do.

google it - rockauto is a standard 5% off code - there's dozens of them available at any given time. they must keep an eye out for questions like this? or coincidence? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145023-rockauto-discount-code-expires-06132014/

If this expires - google "Rockauto Discount Code" there are dozens of 5% off codes at any given time from Rockauto.

yes - 1999-2001 EJ22's are easily swapped in place of a 2001 EJ25. EGR won't be a deal breaker but you might want to know ahead of time if your vehicle has EGR (I think it probably does) and the donor EJ22 may not. If that's the case you can easily install your EJ25 intake manifold w/EGR onto your EJ22 engine (not possible with older swaps but it is here) and reroute some vacuum line to get rid of the EGR check engine light. the engine will run just fine regardless of EGR - but it will show a check engine light if you install a non-EGR engine into an EGR equipped vehicle. 1. bolt the EJ25 intake manifold to the EJ22 (not possible with earlier engines, but it is here). or you can probably just plug and play it too... 2. you will need an EJ22 exhaust manifold as well - the EJ25 are dual port, EJ22 is single port. but it does bolt right up easily and is basically no extra work, just need to get the pipe. 3. swap the drivers side cam sprocket and crank sprocket. that shouldn't be any extra work either since a proper job would include a complete timing belt kit so that has to come off anyway. rockauto and amazon have timing kits with belt, tensioner, and all pulleys for only $125, install one now.

sold, great.

1996 legacy sedan with bad struts. I have a set of 1997 Impreza Outback Sport rear struts (though I think they're from a later generation impreza or WRX struts). Can I install the legacy springs and tophats on the impreza struts.

If you're not in the US - these final drive ratios and year-changes/compatability could be different. the front diff is integrated into the transmission so the transmission has to come from something with the same final drive ratio. OR swap the rear diff and the transmission and you can install *any* transmission and ignore final drive ratio then it becomes only a matter of compatibility. 98 Legacy 2.5 liter is 4.44 final drive 98 Legacy 2.2 liter is 4.11 final drive I thought 02 Foresters were 4.44 but maybe it's a 4.11. All Subaru 4 cylinder non-turbo automatics should be 4.11 or 4.44 final drive ratio.

davebugs lives just north of pburgh in Apollo and knows many automotive places in the area, message/PM him? what do you need? I don't know what "I need to get this thing parked STAT" means? I live an hour+ away and free time is nearly non-existent mostly due to 3 young children, one just born.

oh right, east coast. that stuff doesn't hardly exist at all.

1996-1998 transmissions from a 2.5 liter engine. (OBW, LSi, GT) 1996-1998 transmissions from a 2.2 liter engine are the same and will work, but the final drive ratio is different. if you swap the rear differential with it as well, it'll match the transmission final drive ratio and then you're fine. 2.5 liter = 4.44 final drive ratio 2.2 liter = 4.11 final drive ratio