idosubaru

last resort - graft EA rack side lines onto a EJ pump side lines? cut metal and connect them with hose or weld together? these help at all: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101283-ejea-power-steering/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/48501-for-those-with-ej-conversions/

manuals are getting annoying. input shaft bearings, warn synchros, and clutch work make for maintenance hogs compared to automatics. i have 3 kids and not the time to spend pulling transmissions any more without compelling reason. to that end, i love and prefer automatics though i've never owned a 3AT.

Amazon and rockauto are becoming far better shopping places for Subaru timing kits. Get the Gates kits for $110 here: http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCK304-Timing-Belt-Component/dp/compatibility-chart/B002R8HMAY make sure this is the right water pump (one outlet instead of two should be correct): http://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP307-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/compatibility-chart/B003TUCFT2 I always do water pump, cam seals, oil pump reseal while i'm in there but those components are robust enough to skip without much issue if one wants to/there's a compelling reason. I'm sure you know but don't use aftermarket water pump gaskets. The bolt on hubs are really easy to replace, assuming it's not rust-welded into place. 2005 should be new enough that issue is unlikely!

yah, the HLA's just needed pumped up probably. good question - how long did it sit? how old is the oil in it?

no i haven't done it, but swaps are common. go to subaruxt.com there's quite a few XT6 and XT swaps there. i don't even know how many, but yes it's been done. the transmission will hold up fine if you drive gently. if youre racing it the transmission and clutch are going to be a weak spot. you'll fall somewhere in between that so i'd say the transmission is probably going to be a weak spot.

sounds like a good idea for having smooth thread and easy to use lug nuts and heavier vehicles now. in general though lug nut or lug stud issues are rare and they'll last 300,000 miles, with 1980's and early 90's stuff having no issues so sounds like overkill to me. the guys offroading with 30 year old lifted rigs are breaking stub shafts and stuff before they break lug studs.

i can't imagine why it wouldn't. i've bought the cheap ebay scanners and they've always worked in Subaru's. Not sure if Tanzania may have different protocols, etc? two friends are living in Tanzania now.

www.car-part.com

that stinks. i'd just get a used one, remanned isn't really buying you anything. either way you should get 100,000 miles with proper maintenance and choices. i'd put the money into a proper timing kit, reseal, head job on my watch done with the right parts and procedures (which we can help you with) rather than a reman.

if it's the little gizmo for the "delayed shifting" where you purchase a box to wire in - you can also just disconnect the shift resistor on the passengers side strut tower for the same effect, sharpens up the shifting a little bit.

what year turbo motor? what color is the hood and is it an 85-87 hood or 87.5?

i wouldn't worry too much about it. fine idea to replace it, but not a big deal to leave it. you'll have bigger fish to fry like axle boots, bushings, valve covers, fluid changes, and the one or two year past due timing belt. i've never had any issues leaving them that way. theoretically a stone could get lodged in there but that happens even with the shield in place: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/19252-object-caught-front-rotor-dust-cover.html maybe your car is now "more reliable". LOL looks like lots of people ignore them: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f68/how-important-dust-shields-60524/ they're only $17 new, looks like the part number for yours is 26290FE040

ah right - hose position is the issue - H6 has two hoses up top: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/111962-h-6-radiator-upgrade-will-legacy-radiator-fit-outback-both-02-04-a.html

anyone know if it physically fits? i'd like to get an all aluminum radiator for an H4 and install it in the H6.

wow. see it all the time, just not on 44,000 mile cars. probably: 1. parked over grass will do that - the grass attracts moisture/dew every day and does exactly that, it's what parts cars do when you keep them at your house in the grass. 2. or it went through some winter stuff and then sat for long periods without ever being used/washed/rinsed/driven through rain.

that's the million dollar question. or check engine lights?

copy - you're sure pressures are good? if they're too low or too high the compressor will shut down. one or two of the lower bolts are really annoying to get to and i think the way it works is you can loosen them but don't have to remove them entirely for the compressor to come out. take a look at it closely it's foggy but i think you can unbolt a lower mount and have that come out with the compressor or something. i never bother installing one of the lower bolts when reinstalling, it's complete overkill to have all those huge bolts on such a low key part. the engine is bolted in place with 2 nuts and one bolt - 3 fasteners. and the A/C compressor gets 4 14mm hold downs, that's hysterical.

If the TC is leaking like a sieve then I would fix the known issue first before guessing on others. Fluid loss will mean pressure loss which will effect lines pressures, valve body, etc. TC and TCU shouldn't be the issue, but keeping the TC with the vehicle is a good idea. That being said the TCU is super easy to replace so not a big deal to find out. Though 99's are an oddball year with Phase II engine and trans changes.

Hey, I'm in Morgantown, welcome aboard. Feel free to PM me a link to any future questions. A friend was taking his Audi down to that dealer since there isn't one up here. On the rear studs breaking *** It was definitely the rotors. *** Which you already replaced, good job! Here is what I would do: 1. Replace the rear rotors (DONE!) 2. Clean up the corrosion on all the wheel and rotor mating surfaces which the rotors won't have since they're new, so just clean the wheels - with winter and such corrosion builds up. 3. Torque the nuts on properly - google for the proper torque number and make certain it's being reached. *** There have been incorrect torque values posted for some Subarus, even confusion from Subaru. Maybe your friend found the incorrect numbers? I would err on the high side and go a bit more than recommended. The most recent bout and the front lugs is likely not being torqued properly. There are 10's or 100's of thousands of Subaru's without mysteriously loosening lug nuts. Once it's fixed it's never going to happen again. There's nothing magical or "lucky" about it, something is wrong or it's not. You're wise to be uneasy now, but once it's fixed and properly maintained it will never happen again. My guess is that torque is less of an issue if the wheel/rotors are perfectly clean and the wheel is installed perfectly flat (not one lug tightened while the other side 180 degrees away is still a millimeter off the rotor mating surface) - but those variables are tricky when working "in the field". doubt you need new wheels, but I'm not sure how badly they can get damaged with repeated/prolonged driving on loose lugs. I would get a used set, new would be prohibitively costly. Pick up City in fairmont usually has a good number of Subarus. www.car-part.com Then i'll take your old wheels and see what they do on my cars, LOL. Most tire shops have a note on the invoice saying the lugs need retorqued after XYZ miles on aluminum wheels. I'm sure you can google it and find all the technical reasons, but retorquing aluminum wheels is a known issue.

is the button on the shifter working properly?

how long has it been doing this? time and mileage? it would be nice to know if it's related to once cylinder, one bank, or can move/vary? anyway you think you could narrow that down, like if it'll do it while revving the throttle under the hood? normally your symptoms don't sound like typical ticking if it never does it at idle and only at high rpm's. so i'm not certain that's where to look. if you suspect the pump (again, I'm not there to see/hear/drive it), then yes a resealed pump can still cause ticking. i'm not sure why, i presume the rear mount plate gets slightly warped and doesn't allow full and consistent pressure on the gasket. but regardless of why, what i know for certain is that many, many times replacing the oil pump will solve ticking in EA/ER Subaru engines.

yes! any time the system is open always replace the orings on the compressor. those two are the most common failure points i've seen in Subaru's. i guess heat cycling/vibrations/etc but guessing aside - it's by far the most common Subaru A/C repair I've done. it's basically the only one other than compressors damaged components from impact (wreck/debris). replace those two orings and the schrader valves in the high and low ports, those have a rubber oring at the base prone to leaking as well.

oh right, duh! i probably even have one in my garage, i got hubs everywhere.

if you junked it then agreed, i'd get a whole one from a junk yard or on here someone can send you one and bolt one on that's been cut off from another hub like he just said. i wouldn't attach it with JB weld but i don't think that's what he means.

cake. are you positive it's the A/C compressor? they rarely fail but of course at that age/mileage anything is possible. it's usually the orings at the a/c compressor that leak refrigerant. 1. replace compressor with a used one, ask in the classified section here or: www.car-part.com 2. replace two orings on compressor, just match them up at any auto parts stores (cheap) 3. replace schrader valves in high and low port (cheap) - standard, again match them up an an auto parts store 4. add two cans of refrigerant - 21-24 ounces I think the system takes - no need to vacuum system. A/C will likely last the life of the car. Other than the hoses that bolt to the compressor there's no other parts that fail commonly. Subaru A/C systems are very robust and don't require much maintenance/repair if they're approached properly.