idosubaru

If you suspect CV, and that’s the most common of all the possibilities, it seems very likely. Those front inner boots see a lot of heat and are first to fail on 2000+ Subarus. Also aftermarket boots don’t last as long as Subaru boots. Good luck !

The combination you listed isn’t possible. Yes get ECU that matches the intake manifold. But it’s going to want stock TPS, and other sensors as well. Hard to say what is stock or not or what you’ll run into on a custom job - and we know the listed engine/head/intake isn’t correct.

It's my understanding the newer ones have addressed weak oil control rings. They're still filling them with 0 weight oil and if they just tweaked low friction rings, they're still low friction rings. But the learning curve, recalls, and extended warranties are over.

Good eye and nose! I'd assume the oil supply circuit is leaking - I'm the least familiar with Turbo's but I'd be checking into the oil feed lines and crush washers on the banjo bolts. And of course keep your eye out for other potential leaks - valve covers...etc. Here's a picture for reference: https://www.flatironstuning.com/subaru-oem-turbo-oil-feed-line-02-07-wrx

That’s not remotely possible. With all the EA mentions I assume it’s an EA82T engine? Can you post a picture of the engine? EA and EJ engines easily swap - engine mounts are in the same location. And it’s relatively simple to bolt an EJ22 to an EA transmission. it’s worth looking into an EJ22 swap if it is an EA engine. I get that custom installs are confusing and challenging but this is worth a look.

Already done HG depends on quality of the job as already stated. Subaru Dealers seem to have a good track record with HG. If you find one done at a dealer you can ask the local dealers about that VIN number. They can often tell you what’s been done to it.

Let’s ignore that quote. It’s widely known original factory installed 05-09 HGs leak oil and get worse over time. No Subaru since 1994 mixes coolant and oil, don’t need to worry about that. It can happen but it’s an outlier. 250,000 is a decent chunk of miles. Choose wisely.

Great, thanks for letting me know those dates. I didn't think that would be it anyway but good to confirm. The resistor and TCM didn't fix it. Wow. What torque converter did you use? Original or a different one? I'm not aware of anyway - but I wonder if there's some way for the rear MPT (center diff) could be causing this. It has to be that or wiring. Does the TCM use any engine sensors besides the TPS?

Glad they got it done, too bad on alignment but at least that's a little more straight forward and should go smoothly minus the time, schedule, waiting, etc. Torch - that nut comes off in 15 seconds. It wasn't a Subaru part so couldn't retain alignment anyway, that was your choice. Aftermarket dimensions can vary and can't be expected to retain alignment. Imdew and myself both described how it's done before the car went to the shop. Take them a Subaru part and explain to them what we told you or just read/show them the very easy/normal/typical directions we wrote. They'd be glad to learn a new skill. We try to help.... If the shop doesn't know how to retain alignment on a tie rod swap then you may want to avoid them for future suspension work (and more). If they don't have a torch and can't retain alignment they sound very limited for a northeast subaru shop.

1 hour labor, 1 hour alignment. It's really easy but the press fit end getting stuck and lock nut and removing it without a special tool (or buying/renting the tool) can be troubling if you're not well experienced with tight fasteners. I can't see yours but that lock nut and the end joint press fit - can be crusty rusty in the northeast and cause a bit of a wrestling match without good tools and torch. I'd inspect the rack boot really well first or have a new steering rack boot on hand just in case - removing a quarter century old boot might render it unusable to reinstall. That's the most dangerous part on the entire vehicle, I'd use Subaru only for tie rods. I would quite literally install a used Subaru OEM before an aftermarket. If you get a Subaru one too it's probably easier to ensure alignment is the same by counting turns...assuming the parts are the same/equivalents. I've replaced subaru inner tie rods without removing the outer tie rod. Loosen the lock nut, turn the inner tie rod out so it comes out of the outer tie rod (thereby skipping the need to remove it). Remove boot. Use inner tie rod tool to swap tie rods. Literally don't have to remover any bolts or nuts - just the boot and tie rod itself. Count the number of turns of the tie rod and install the new one to the same depth.

You weren't satisfied with it by your last two posts - what was the final fix here?

I'd do exactly what you said - the fluid filter, ATF hoses, and do a visual inspection on the side and rear seals. Why was it in the yard, could you tell?

2002 and 2003 is when the rear transfer clutch solenoid wiring was reversed. I’m a little uncertain on that but that might be a good idea to check #4 - they can have “pending” codes, which don’t trigger the CEL. have to read the codes to see them. good to hear it doesn’t. Ive unplugged the shift resistor to firm up lagging slow shifting on 80s and early 90s 4EATs that were known to have slow/lagging shifting from 3-4. It was minor but enough that some people liked to tinker snd do that. There was nothing wrong with them, they were just like that. We just would disconnect the shift resistor entirely (just unplug it) and the shifts are much more crisp/sharp/fast. Could unplug it and drive but maybe it would have adverse affects on newer subarus. FSM may give a simple test you can do.

All non diesel turbo engines are unreliable when compared to non turbo, so it depends what you mean by “reliable”. They’re unforgiving of heat, non synthetic oil, extended oil changes. Even a minor oversight means needing a new block (which are in high demand) By now a 2005 has a long unknown history. If they’ve got a known documented history of maintenance, never been run hot, synthetic oil changed very frequently, and taken care of, and it’s never eaten a turbo or turbo replaced with a cheap aftermarket garbage….they can a decent vehicle. Practically that almost never happens. So yes they’re reliable but no you probably won’t find one in the condition I described. It also needs Subaru timing belt pulleys tensioner and water pump no matter what it’s timing belt history. It’s probably old or has aftermarket parts or the pulleys and tensioner have never been replaced. “New timing belt” isn’t good enough. Has to be Subaru or AISIn and all new pulleys too.

It has the same problem with a new transmission (with original MPT)? It seems like it has to be: a. TCU b. MPT c. Final drive ratio mismatch (I doubt this is it but I don’t like assuming too much from your diagnosis and my interpretation of types descriptions) d. Shift resistor (I’ve never seen one fail or cause those symptoms but it completes the list of *things a proper trans needs to shift properly*) lukcily those are all rather simple to diagnose or swap with a cheap used one 1. Youre positive it’s got the right final drive ratio matching trans and rear diff? 2. why does it have so low miles? 3. I’d swap the TCU. It’s easy and they almost never fail so they’re cheap 4. Scan check engine codes. What do you get? 5. Are there any trans or other lights illuminated on the dash? Unplug the shift resistor - what happens when driving now? Get a used one and swap it in What happens if you manually shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to D as needed rather than have it in drive? If you’re in D and manually shift to 3rd before pressing the gas pedal what’s happens?

With relays removed is it 14.0 or 14.5 or…? Test voltage with only one of those two relays installed at a time. Does voltage do same thing or different? The relay test suggests potential JDM light issues - wiring or otherwise. “Began dropping” - give us some numbers and time frame to understand what’s going on. How low does it go? When it’s dripping what happens if you increase RPMs? The alternator isn’t outputting much at idle

The new pigtail was wired in backwards by a previous shop. Compared it to the other side and the wires were opposite. The assemblies were faded and his uncle attempted to freshen them up before, so he decided to get new headlight assemblies which I installed last week. Thanks all!

You’ve checked all bulb sockets and pigtails related to headlights? Make sure no rear or front headlight, low beam, high beam, taillight are corroded or bad? disconnect each headlight and tail light one at a time and see if any impact voltage differently. If there’s more than one per assembly - disconnect each wiring plug in the headlight assembly independently and the entire tailgate if there’s easy access (some are easier than others). Im not familiar with JDM but if any custom wiring was done that’s the first place to start. I worked on a friends problematic headlights last week. Turns out previous shop reversed the wiring to a replacement bulb connector. Still worked but not correctly.

Yes. More devices require more amps, voltage stays the same.

He nailed it on all points - I'd avoid EJ25D's and 259's, the way the EJ25D headgaskets fail are prone to prior historical multiple overheating events missed by owers and mechanics alike. The later 00+ (and 99 Forester/Imp) 2.5's are much more forgiving.

Agreed. $300-$1,000 engine + $500-$1,500 for parts and install and the total cost of $800-$2,500 can easily be less than a headgasket replacement on a questionable DOHC EJ25.

Approx $2,500 for dealer to do a 2.5 head gaskets in the vehicle. It can vary. Resurfacing (some dealers do, many don’t), timing components, valve covers, etc. and regional rates demand and staffing vary too. Call and ask they might give you a quote for an “average” headgasket job. That’s a fairly standard job locally speaking and some will give an estimate over the phone A cheap 98 legacy needing headgaskets can be questionable. If it was overheated bad enough the engine isn’t worth repairing. I’d walk cautiously around blown headgaskets EJ25s now - they’re old, not worth much and more prone to people limping them along and further compromising the lower end bearings.

Cheers for it being a bearing!! I’ve encountered a couple with no diagnosable symptom. It would make noise while driving straight (under load/higher rpms I guess). That’s it. No play. No change when turning while driving. No feel when turned by hand. No noise with stethoscope. No temp change after driving. Even more odd - they were lumpy feeling when rotated once removed from the vehicle.

Correct. Fronts are more exposed to heat and temp/cycling, road debris, additional functionality of steering components and exposure rates (axles removed, boots or replacement), and heavier (front heavier than rear and car nose dives in quick brake application). It’s just an all around busier higher stress area. When you say “serviceable” do you mean grease them like the 70s or replace just the bearing like the 90s? If you mean “like the 90s”, for Subaru I’d guess it’s simply due to the increasing complications of labor, special tools, and hub failures to replace them. Hub Tamer tools, rusted in parts pressing complications, deformed hubs requiring multiple bearing replacements. And they need great seals Ideally everyone is cleaning or repalcing their wheel seals with every axle removal - boots, replace, etc. That’s a lot of effort and hard to make consistently accomplished. Given the parts costs, labor, rust, presses, special tools, wheel seal replacement issues and damaged hubs - the cost isn’t really extravagantly different. There are more bearing failures now than in the 90s. Its not just Subaru either. Honda and Toyota’s have their weaker bearings as well. It’s an industry wide shift. My curiosity is why a 5 year old 1992 legacy bearing was far less likely to fail than a 5 year old Subaru (or Honda or Toyota) bearing today. It seems that current bearings should be capable of similar reliability but for some reason they’re not. OEM bearings don’t strand a vehicle and give ample warning and for new car consumers aren’t a detriment to purchase. Why do newer bearings have higher ratws of failure? Is it increasing vehicle weight? I doubt it…but I can’t think of any other significant changes. Id guess they’re assuming the trade offs of earlier issues and new ones is tolerable to consumers. If you mean “greasable” 70s bearings - As usual there’s a pros and cons list. Keep them greased, sealed and from overheating and bearings are likely to last the life of the vehicle. Theoretically sealed is great. But it isn’t practical for modern consumers and 200,000 mile vehicles seeing numerous axles changes, mud, snow, rust, salt, etc. there’s no shortage of equipment, trailer, tractor, boat and other serviceable bearing issues. A rusty nippple is likely in the northeast and annoying if it breaks off or clogs. My friend that daily drives 1970s cars is playing with bearings every 30k. Thats cool he loves it. I’ll pass on that but gladly spend my time worrying about tire circumference LOLOL 1970s Serviceable isn’t scalable to the masses of consumers less familiar with mechanics and maintenance.

96-03 4 cylinders are all very similar. I wouldn’t favor any of those years if I was going to put a 2.2 in it. im a little confused about your question though. What is your plan? You can’t just drop the same 2.2 in a 96 and 2003. 96-98 (and 99 OB or legacy) are phase I and 00-03 (and 99 For or Imp) are Phase II. As far as the systems other than the engines: major systems like brakes and power steering are essentially the same with minor tweaks and no issues. Front struts are interchangeable between them all. 00-03 have significant rear suspension changes. 99-2001 EJ22s (found in 99 legacies and 99-01 Imprezas) are not as robust as 96-98 EJ22s - they’re more prone to oil leaks/headgaskets than their 96-98 beast older cousin EJ22s. some 01-03s have H6s which can’t be swapped into 4 cylinder vehicles without full wiring ECU conversion. 99 and sometimes 98 or 2000 automatic have delayed engagement into drive. When first starting in the morning Shift from reverse to drive and wait 3-10 seconds to go. test drive them from cold start and see. If it happens (and wasn’t ignored for 5 years) it’s treatable for less than $10. I wouldn’t avoid 99ish automatics I’d just make sure it doesn’t currently delay for 10 or more seconds from cold (meaning it was ignored for years).