idosubaru

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/regtech/420f08009.pdf http://epa.gov/otaq/regs/im/obd/r01015.pdf

this is good news - rod knock generally does not go away, not in subaru's anyway. once it's there it usually only gets worse. this sounds like symptoms of a failing timing belt tensioner - it'll vary by load, temperatures, etc as it's getting weak and tired. on older models you can remove the timing belt cover to check - it's 3 minutes and three 10mm bolts. i think on 99's they went to a larger cover that's integrated and you can't just remove the drivers side any more though.... on the 99's you can remove the serpentine belts, crank pulley, then the timing cover and simply run the vehicle with the cover off for a minute and none of the serpentine belts hooked up. or reassemble the motor without the cover if you're uncomfortable or don't know how to do the above. once you can see the tensioner, run the engine and you'll see it "flopping" around, it'll be vibrating and when knocking it'll be rapping loudly against the metal around it. ebay kits offer complete timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner for $160 - $200.

piston slap and timing belt tensioner can sound exactly like rod knock to anyone that isn't well versed in the differences on Subaru EJ engines, a mechanic could easily be mislead. I got a Subaru from a mechanic with "rod knock' and it was merely piston slap. i mean rod knock is certainly possible, plenty engines are run low on oil and get rod knock....but make sure it's not something simple. piston slap is loud but meaningless and the car is fine for 100,000+ miles with it.....it doesn't even need repaired. timing belt tensioners are $100.

Alleyboy - All Phase II EJ25's will offer the same complications mentioned above for the 99 Forester. *** 2000 and up Legacy and Outbacks and 99 and up Forester and Impreza RS *** Print that out or save it on your computer - if the vehicle is any of the above then you'll have the EJ25 swap complications mentioned earlier. For a 2000 Legacy bolt the EJ25 heads to your EJ22 or get a 99+ EJ22, or 2000-2004 EJ25. Heads bolted to your known good Ej22 sounds like a good option if you want a lot of miles out of it.

excellent, then like i said just get the headgaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and coolant crossover pipe orings. you can get a fel pro valve cover gasket set - there are two varieties, have to look to see what yours is. I would get an EJ18/EJ22 timing belt kit and replace all the timing pulleys. those kits are cheap so you can replace all 4 pulleys for only $90 or so and throw the belt away. pulleys are the same, belt is not. i'd put a link to which kit but i don't know what style tensioner you have, they vary and there's no clear way to know without looking since around 1997 was a changeover year and can have both.

again, you're not listening. Subaru's do NOT require new headbolts, complete waste. if the timing belt was already replaced then don't replace it if you can't afford it....replace the timing pulleys if you can. the timing pulleys are identical to other Subaru EJ18 and EJ22 engines which have timing kits for much cheaper if you do'nt need the belt. (keep in mind there are two style tensioners) if you're cutting corners, i'd leave the water pump, very rarely do those have issues on these motors. better to leave that water pump that won't likely fail than try to replace it and buy cheap headgaskets that will.

You're ignoring our suggestions: Do *** NOT *** get aftermarket headgaskets for this engine. For some Subaru engines it's okay and even a good idea. It is a very bad idea for this particular motor. Better off selling the car as-is for $1,500 and buying some other cheap Subaru off craigslist for $1,500 + the cost of the headgasket repair - you'll get far more miles out of it than those aftermarket headgaskets. This engine is extremely problematic, you want to listen to folks that know this exact engine. You want quality, not quantity...all those shiny, new parts are pointless and should offer no sense of protection. *** If cost is a concern then simply do this: Buy Subaru OEM headgaskets, intake manifold gaskets, and coolant crossover pipe orings - I posted the part number above for the headgaskets. You can buy them online for about %20 less than local dealer prices at a variety of online Subaru dealers. As cost allows replace these: 1. timing belt 2. pulleys 3. timing tensioner (like $100

as i just mentioned there are two style valve cover gaskets for that motor. there are also two different timing belt tensioners as well. you'll need to let us know what all you want to replace. you never replace head bolts on these, reuse them. Subaru only on these parts: headgaskets, intake manifold, and water pump gaskets. Subaru exhaust manifold gaskets are far better too but they are really easy to replace and often reusable so you're call. Tstat should be Subaru or XACTA aftermarket. bare minimum: 2 headgaskets, 2 intake manifold gaskets, and 2 coolant crossover orings. complete job, in addition to the above: valve cover gasket set (2 valve cover gaskets, 4 spark plug gaskets, grommets for all bolts) 4 cam seals 1 crank seal oil pump oring thermostat 1 thermostat gasket water pumps rarely fail, but you can replace that. make sure you get a Subaru water pump gaskets, they are stamped metal and far superior quality to the paper stuff elsewhere. ebay kits also have timing belts with all new pulleys and tensioners...and some come with seals as well for cam, crank, water pump, wp gasket....again, depends what you're looking for.

good job! As I suspected: Same motor, same headgasket. That's the Subaru part number you want above. Always have the heads resurfaced on these. There are two different valve cover/spark plug gaskets for that engine, so you'll want to verify those if they're getting replaced.

Post a picture of the engine. It's probably the same headgasket that the original engine had: 11044AA610 - same headgasket for all 1996-1998 EJ25's and 1999 OBW's and 1999 Legacy's 2.5's. That is true if either of the following are true: 1. If it has two bit round circles in the timing covers on each side (2 on drivers side and 2 on passsengers side)? 2. The spark plugs go through the valve cover gaskets

i can't tell from the pic - but it is the crankshaft itself that's scratched? if it's the outer sealing surface you could entertain dapping good sealant...but i'm guessing it's the actual crank based on the comments...

overheating at idle and temps dropping while driving is usually not headgaskets, it's usually: 1. low coolant (a leak somewhere) 2. fans not coming on properly coolant overflow will boil on any car when they simply get too hot, it's not always the "exhaust pushing into coolant" like the old fashioned internal EJ25 headgasket failure. it is of course not a fun sign...but let's hope you've got some luck?

yours was the bulb socket too - how did you know which one, that it was it?

no worries, it's been done before. it is interesting that it doesn't matter...they have to balance driveshafts sometimes...whey not CV's? in any event it doesn't matter on Subaru CV axles...CV clamps are "unbalanced" too and the snap rings inside are not evenly distributed in weight either. if weight were an issue then there would be cases where the snap rings and cv band clamps lining up or not lining up caused issues, but the differences are miniscule. if it mattered you'd have to clean all the grease/grime off the axles and boots to make sure it wasn't imbalanced due to uneven weight distribution ruining the axles. nearly all my axles have many inches of thick grease over the cups, axles, etc and it's not even. technically you could get "more" accurate balancing with a worm clamp than a CV clamp if you used two and space the head sides out evenly LOL...but again, it doesn't matter.

he's got the work around link, he posted two different threads

odd - cardoc on subarutoutback.org said the mounting brackets are slightly different but bushings are the same...you say bushings are different...or maybe it's both and the bushing has to be installed a certain side. still confused...lol

you sound interested even if the block is blown...so sounds like a decent fit. go into it not expecting too much from the motor. the positive says...the block is probably good....the more cynical says something was amiss with the motor (prior damage, the rebuild) rather than the "warm up". why did it need the rebuild to begin with...what condition was the motor before the rebuild...and how well was that rebuild done? the "warm up" guess sounds unlikely to me.

oh yeah well you're far more tuned into performance and suspension than i am so ignore everything i say. LOL rear sway bars are a common upgrade for OBW's. subaruoutback.org has a significant amount of OBW strut/sway bar commentary/threads. 2000 and up OBW's have a completely different rear suspension than your 99 so none of that at all pertains to you. but the fronts are the same exact set up and interchangeable...though i suppose strut and spring characteristics changed since the body style/weight/engine options changed in 2000.

I was looking for Outback rear control arm bushings/transverse bushings and they are "different" left to right but how? It looks like one "could" fit both sides...so how are they different? I even saw them listed as the same part in one place....

thanks guys. i found some in my box of fasteners...i think they're even EJ oil pump bolts, perfect length, looks the same, etc.

oh man, wish i were closer i'd take you up on that, i do fish and trout fishing is high on my list. a non-EGR engine runs and drives just fine in an EGR equipped vehicle, if you want to tackle the EGR fix later, it's not necessary for any mechanical reason at all. you will have a CEL that won't go away though, so you'll want to resort to one of those solutions above if you want or need to have the light out.

the brake fluid and hardware is almost certainly all original - most places pad-slap or pad/rotor slap brakes. so if you want better brakes step 1 is get that 15 year old fluid out of there as soon as possible and grease slide pins, replace clips. subaru brakes are super simple disc brakes, no springs or drum brake like contraptions. remove wheels and then it's literally either one or two bolts (depending on the style) to replace the pads. 1. remove wheel (and loosen master cylinder cap) 2. remove one or two bolts that hold the caliper in place. (some have one bolt and a rotating pin, others have two bolts). 3. swing up (one bolt style) or remove (two bolt style) caliper and replace pads. 4. press the piston back in with a c-clamp. you can get them to go back in with large channel locks or simply pushing with a screw driver, but you better be stout and enjoy getting aggressive. with a c-lamp and the old pads it's effortless. 5. install caliper bolt(s), wheel, master cylinder cap. if you have a local place, have the rotors turned for $15 each or replace. best to keep the original rotors, they're generally high quality steel and don't need replaced. it's really easy. as to brake pad type, like i said it doesn't matter just don't get el-cheapo pads. yet even cheap pads i've seen work well, they're just dirty as crap and wear out quick so i avoid them, but they actually perform decent. i just get ceramics - see what rockauto (you know them right - www.rockauto.com) has good prices on and go there. NAPA advantage one (or something like that) and thermoquiets...i think..from memory...they all perform the same to me so i don't go crazy on pads. one reason they might "seem" like cheap pads don't perform as well is that the same people buying the cheapest pads are also the ones not getting/doing good work - changing fluid, pins, grease, boots, clips. and the other way around - the same people getting nice pads usually are changing fluid, hardware, clips, greasing boots, etc.. your struts are likely aged as well, replacing them might do you some good. might be nice to test drive some other OBW and see if it performs anybetter. or get a rear sway bar/stiffer springs to counteract the wagon if yo'ure used to a sedan. Subaru wagons don't drive like sedans if that's what you're comparing it too. i've had a bunch and hands down the sedans are definitely nicer to drive in terms of suspension. SUS, LSi, Outback Sedans...i've had/have a bunch and they all drive nicer than the wagons i've also owned. i'm not well versed in strut/suspension stuff though so i'm not sure what you're after/would like...

here's the easy solution: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/137829-using-a-non-egr-engine-in-subaru-with-egr/?hl=ej18 the more involved method is to drill and tap the EGR port. aluminum is soft metal so it's easy to work with: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-egr-port-jdm-ej25-dohc-95-98-151598.html

sounds like you have enough experience to put something together...exhaust - ebay has some good low cost options, intake, etc. as for brakes - probably get by without any upgrades except simply some decent (i usually get ceramic) pads. if you have new fluid, regrease all the slides, new hardware/slide pin boots, pads, and rotors turned and a decent set of pads. i've never noticed a difference with brakes, the only practical difference i've seen is not to buy the el-cheapo pads, so to me all the Hawk and EBC pads blah, blah blah, doesn't mean much. Either way, this stuff is all inexpensive...only real cost is fluid and bushings/clips since brake pads/rotors are wear items anyway. rockauto.com has great prices on brake hardware like clips and boots. in good working order the brakes will lock up just fine so larger brakes aren't going to gain anything, they'll lock the wheels just like the stock brakes, unless you're towing/racing. do whatever you want that fits your bill towards those ends. new fluid and hardware is good either way. the clips rust and get that baked on black stuff (pad material i suppose) and the pads don't travel as well, have uneven pressure, so new clips are good for full and even pad/rotor contact. i don't think it's until 2000 that they put the slide pin bushings on the caliper slides, but if they have them i throw them away. they expand and resist or seize in the slide pin bore. i've seen a ton of them do that so i'm now in the habit of just throwing them away. i have some WRX calipers...same thing, i just toss those worthless bushings. i'm not familiar with suspension and i generally lift subaru's not stiffer/lower...but having owned/driven like 50 subaru's, the legacy GT's handle well so those would be an easy/cheap option.

no way! that's awesome. mig - like welding wire? i've got spools of that...for a CV axle...wow!