idosubaru

there isn't any controversy, just have to see clearly how it works. aftermarket axles have a success rate - let's call it 80% to make up a number. if 80% are good, then 80 out of 100 folks will be happy. many of those 80 will sell the car or won't have the car long enough to report back or see failures and many of those 80 will never have issues at all. that works for folks wanting to avoid a $250 repair bill. but - for those of us that do a lot of these and have been for years - a %20 failure rate is absolutely awful. my time is extremely valuable, redoing an axle is not acceptable. i also travel a lot and get many years/miles out of my daily drivers - Maine, Florida, New Orleans, Colorado, Joplin Missouri...many 1,000+ mile trips, a possible failed joint is not an option. aftermarkets are a good fit for some people. someone doing one axle every 10 years is unlikely to have any problems. someone doing 10 a year or month....it's silly to have guaranteed failures and extra work.

can you simply remount the coil like it originally was for that engine/spark plug wire set? that's what i'd do so it keeps things simple now and for future spark plug wires. a company like Magnecor can probably make you a set longer...or tell you their lengths - they may be slightly longer than stock anyway. can put like 200,000 miles on their wires too - for $60 you can't go wrong, i run them on like 3 vehicles for years and get tons of miles out of them.

guy put a newer STi fuel pump in his 95 Legacy...so combine that with the last post involving impreza's and it's starting to look like lots of fuel pumps are interchangeable. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2272523

i hope that makes sense - there are like 4 bolts on each side of the intake manifold that hold it to the heads - so 8 total bolts. then of course remove hoses, disconnect wires, sensors, throttle cables, etc and lift the entire intake manifold as an assembly off the engine. install the other one.

everything else being equal - the legacy. auto - you can "lock it" 50/50 like he mentioned, info in other threads here, very simple to install your own switch and a great modification. wheel and tire options all day long - any 1990+ legacy, impreza, forester, baja, WRX (except 2005+) will bolt right up. better strut and brake options and set ups. easier to work on struts, axles, etc. more reliable timing belt set up...much better engine all the way around. those EJ22's are amazing..if you don't run it out of oil or coolant you basically get as many miles as you care to maintain it for. those early legacy's are amazing for inexpensive practical reliability. very robust vehicles that easily crank out lots of miles, not any big ticket items to worry about, very few issues...of course it's 20 years old so prior maintenance is your main concern. if it's in good shape (which $800 does not suggest it is....but anyway) - keep it that way and it'll treat you well.

i think that's a good guess - age related build up of some sort. obviously it's good to have protection for odd situations, like yours. what i mean by 'never' is that one of these clogging is a symptom of some other issue (like the ATF should be changed in yours, which you already did), they shouldn't have anything in them and never need changed unless something else fails. not like air or oil filters which are supposed to get dirty. there are other screens on Subaru's fluids that are not mentioned by Subaru and never replaced by dealers or owners except in cases of internal failures that cause them to clog - they don't clog or get changed otherwise.

you're not hearing or listening..it's hard to explain when we only get to type. the wiring and plugs are completely irrelevant for now: bolt the SOHC intake manifold onto the DOHC engine block - then it has the same original wiring harness and the ECu doesn't know any different. the extra cam sensors are for the variable timing stuff and not necessary, so just don't use them. that's done on USDM swaps so i assume same with JDM... so: make sure the intakes have the same bolt pattern and interchange - bolt spacing, etc. they're probably the same. make sure the cam sensor you need (drivers side top same location as original engine) is in place and the same - same connector..if not, just swap the sensor. anyway...i think it would work without any additional expense or much effort.

that is amazingly simple - if i had an EGR intake manifold i'd do it...unfortunately i swapped mine to non-EGR intake.... i have a non-EGR intake, non-EGR ECU, clipped the ECU EGR wire(s)...and still have check engine lights...must be some wonky wiring on the body side or input via the auto trans or something.

maybe, we'll see, not right now. i'll PM my number, call me tomorrow between noon and 2, i'll try to remember too... that's my only availability until Monday.

This same swap (DOHC JDM into SOHC EJ25) has been done before without swapping heads, so you're mechanic may not be entirely wrong. Why not bolt your intake manifold to the new engine? 04 WRX STi headgasket Subaru part # 11044AA642

dude, nice hit! i have put 60,000+ miles on my EGR vehicle with non-EGR engine, when reset the light comes back on within 30 miles so with 2000 miles on it this looks like you slam dunked it! well done for doing it and well done for posting detailed description. looks like one could cut the EGR pipe close to the valve and slide/clamp hose to it?

was not me in chat. i'm out of state and very busy at the moment, back sunday night.....

woah crack, that is an intense about of something. could it be bad/old fluid or an inline filter material degrading....? i've never seen any debris on a 4EAT internal filter up to 200,000 miles, they are so spotless i now consider them pointless to replace and haven't replaced one in years. my daily drivers are at 210k, 190k, and 170k and i'm not touching any of them, completely pointless as i know (or am guessing) they they are completely clean like all the others i've ever seen. i've never heard of someone pulling one and saying it was dirty either. i'm sure failing trans have issues, but i don't rebuild i just replace so hardly worth pulling those. seems to me like something caused, at one point, or is causing that.

if you search, folks have i believe worked up a resistor that can trick some systems...maybe older ones... seems simplest to just install the sensor as-is and install an extender for $5 and be done with it.

to swap heads, i would aim to bolt your heads to that block - which is I think what you're asking. when you do that, use the EJ25 Turbo headgaskets simply for the fact that they don't have headgasket issues like the nonturbo headgaskets. be sure to resurface the heads. there's no need to pressure check or test them, the non-turbo heads are never out of spec, you can do it yourself, it's really easy: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ I would attempt to swap the SOHC intake manifold onto the DOHC engine. the DOHC has variable valve timing heads but will run fine, the SOHC just won't control or use that system. that being said...what happened to the original engine?

rear O2 delete - sure, just remove it. the ECU doesn't use it for anything. ha ha - that would be awesome if you can just leave the O2 dangling, that sounds awesome! you can use an old one to try it out - don't even remove the existing one - just find another used one to plug in and see what happens. would take like 1 minute to do that.

Helpful if oil discussions went in another thread to avoid cluttering this one up. Link already in first post for thread about what oil additives do and why they may cause HLA's to always tick due to resultant wear: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/109575-ea82-lifter-ticking-tod-etc-my-recent-experience/ There is no detailed description. Use whatever you want to or get results you like from, etc. ATF, diesel oil, additives, MMO...doesn't matter, results vary based on engine condition/issue. Changing the oil and water pumps is not hard and rather simple actually - you don't "see the insides" really, so don't be too timid.

it's easy - replace the oil pump, that is the most common issue by far sometimes resealing the pump works. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/?hl=hydraulic

There were no DOHC's after 99 in the US market so you'll need to tell us what engine it is...is it JDM or is that a typo or.... If it's JDM variant then you should be able to bolt your existing intake manifold onto the new motor. Now is the time for a new timing belt kit as well, regardless of mileage it's 8 years old. If the vehicle had EGR and the JDM engine does not, you will have a check engine light or need to do some retrofitting to work around that....swap heads, custom piping...something. In the US market - DOHC and SOHC intake manifolds are not interchangeable and the idle air control is different, they're annoying and essentially not swappable without significant effort and check engine lights.

yes

buy whatever you want if you don't mind hit-and-miss or low percentage. even sucky axles still have a 75% success rate so that's why you see lots of various oppinions. if you don't mind anecdotal success and touting being one of the 75% then just get whatever floats your boat. advance auto always has about 20% off online too - buy online, pick up in store. P20 is a common 20% discount code they use. that pushes your $80 axle down to $64 i do too much work on Subarus to deal with anything other than as close to 100% success rate as i can get. aftermarkets have lots of issues - leaking, clicking, vibrating on acceleration, vibration in idle, and i've even seen them explode in less than 50 feet...balls rolling on the floor. sure - i've had plenty of good ones too but, unlike the person who only does this once every 10 years, i don't have time for 8 out of 10 being good. if you want nearly 100% success rates on axles: 1. buy a used OEM axle and reboot it - i readily get them for $25 - $33 each, this is almost exclusively what i do and i'm still batting 100%. If you go through a lot find a yard with a bunch and ask for a good deal on a few of them, i do that. have them shipped - www.car-parts.com 2. MWE out of colorado - core returns are annoying to deal with but great end product

have you looked into what years had those clogged lines...i think there was even a recall. if so - is your car in the years for that and has yours had that recall done? no, not common. i would guess it's possible the lines were clogged and damage was previously done. but of course check other possibilities....

be nice to pull the headliner or roof rack and find out exactly why it's leaking...if it's rust then it's likely back and worse in a year. but with enough sealant outside i'd think you should calm it for the most part...if that's where it's coming from.

does it have a sunroof? it probably does and it's probably leaking - clogged drain hose or otherwise compromised. or if it has roof racks those could be leaking. leak is probably coming from up top, not underneath, the plastic cover is not necessary, most are missing by this point and it's certainly not causing the internal leak.

here's pictures of a home made piston pin puller and a Subaru FSM picture of the Subaru tool is in this thread as well on that same page or one previous: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3575&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=engine+rebuild&start=30 he gets two of the piston pin clips out with just needle nose pliers, which i've heard folks mention before. a lot of detail - but that fairly well documents an ER engine (XT6) coming apart and being rebuilt, which has the exact same pistons, rings, rods, as an EA82. since EA81 and EA82 pistons are very similar, folks that sell pistons interchange them, and not terribly different i would suspect the piston pin clips to be similar.