idosubaru

It is NOT the converter, though that's often blamed. Let it be known that you can drive indefinitlely with this code, it causes no problems at all and is strictly an emissions code...and a really lame one at that. Cars with a P0420 code would actually pass an exhaust analyzer test were able to take it. The engine is not running 100% and the 0420 code is waaaaaay too sensitive. The cheap and easy fix is to install a $5 spacer and never deal with it again (hopefully). The proper fix is to find the fuel issue, tune up, ignition, exhaust leak or whatever causing the code. Cardoc has an elaborate post...with videos i think...of how to properly nail this thing down. But there are very few mechanics that will go to that depth to track it down, and the cost could be high depending on their willingness to learn/help you.

Wh And there's an FSM link above strongly suggesting 3AT is the same as all the rest. And your owners manual strongly suggests it's no different. There's also no hits on internet searches, if there was something that different I doubt it would take 30 years for someone to notice and ask on the internet!!! Everything points to gear oil....but the goofy dipstick....interesting. The dipstick - can you post a picture of the front differential dipstick. One thought comes to mind - early 3AT's could differ than later ones....seems odd but just trying to think what could be confusing here.

+1 triple digits sounds too high. the subaru's i've measured...though olde rhan yours...seem more around the 30 and 40 range, i wouldn't expect 5 times that even if yours is a little higher. i'm also notably not well versed in electrical talk though, you are in good hands with Cougar, he's who i always hopes peeks in on my electrical questions!!

Same here, exactly what I'm thinking. The FSM located at the following link mentions "FWD 3AT" and lumps it right in with all the other auto transmissions maintenance items and even has a picture of it with arrows pointing to the "ATF drain plug" and "Gear Oil drain plug". Section 1-5 page 21: http://www.ch601.org/engines/files/SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart1.pdf

Install baja rear springs, they're stiffer and give a tiny bit of lift...1/2" or 1" in the rear. For a good bit more loot you can install king springs.

totally normal for only part of the fluid to come about - roughly 1/3. the rest is in the lines, radiator, torque converter, valve body, and wahtever weird stuff the 3AT has. weird. do you have an owners manual? front diff sure seems like it should get gear oil. this thread suggests regular gear oil like all the other trans front diffs: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/131560-1992-loyale-front-3at-diff-fluid-type-limited-slip/?do=findComment&comment=1120545 looks like gear oil coming out of this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/116068-front-diff-on-3at/?do=findComment&comment=990212 i think there's a rare failure mode where a seal can be compromised such that ATF does end up in the front diff..but I think that unlikely. was this routine maintenance or are you tracking some slight issues? ATF and gear oil mixing in 3AT's: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/8828-busted-front-diff-seal/?do=findComment&comment=74654

if i'm reading that correctly then yes that's a huge draw. 1. have you pulled EVERY single fuse out of the interior cabin and the engine bay fuse box? all of them, pull them and see if the draw goes away. 2. are there any aftermarket items - stereo or otherwise? 3. any components not working or working oddly? as a temporary measure they have mechanical switch designed to put on the battery terminal at any auto parts stores so that you can disconnect the battery every time and at least drive the car without killing your battery all the time. the 120 is just a main power supply circuit so i don't think that narrows it down much.

the relay is by the ABS pump if memory serves me correctly LOL, i can totally see that. nothing to take too lightly....particularly for how simple this fix is. is it illegal to disable ABS...if it's okay for other cars not to have it that didn't come with it? does that mean even changing tire size or wheel size would also render it non-OEM and legal trouble? where's the legal line?

indeed, lots of angels on this, approrpriate response is to fix it. as you said - CYA as you see fit indeed. but that being said...i've never heard of it happening. it's not economical for a company to pay an entire team of people for the logistical support of such CIA investigations, burden of proof situations, lawyers, etc...and it would be unwise from a marketing sense to be the insurance company that is out to get every customer out of any claim they can...doesn't really happen in the real world with few exceptions (like new car warranties on STi's). i have tons of friends...one just texted me pic's an hour ago...that have wrecked their vehicles and none have ever had an insurance do a thorough investigation to see if every single part of the car was up to OEM spec's.they don't look into that stuff even though they caused the accident, ran into a semi and a car slid into a ditch....he's a good friend but i'm not too worried about his legal safety and doubt they'll be piecing together the carnage to get out of or create any claims, everyone was safe is the good news. or....and i would "never" do this - put a blown fuse and they'll never be able to prove that it happened before or during an accident.

some of those 95 era legacy's had a common problem with the ABS unit doing this - search on google, there's a TSB probably. unfortunately the endwrench articles are all lost so the links are all dead. you simply have to replace the relay. I think Subaru's updated part number is, from another thread on USMB: 26735AA012 pulling the fuse is fine - the brakes work just like normal non-ABS brakes, you can drive it indefinitely like that with no issues.

excellent, no need to hope, this is a done deal as suspected.

yes, otherwise I wouldn't have mentioned it. i've seen this happen to cars that "sit or have been jumped"....so while I wasn't there and I can't pop the hood to look, it's sounding like the obvious starting point to me. this is going to turn out to be something straight forward...like cables, battery, or fuse.

considering how easily Subaru's make 200,000 miles without replacing or really doing much of anything but oil changes with whatever brand oil you want....it's hard to imagine it makes much difference to me. that being said i do MMO and Seafoam from time to time...but I wonder what that little bit of fluid can really do in the lines... it's helpful to keep track of your gas mileage so that if it drops then you know something needs addressed. i wouldn't expect any gains just strictly due to age or mileage. i've had injectors rebuilt before and noticed no difference in performance or mileage...i just did it due to age or the engine already being apart, etc. there are companies like RC Engineering and Witchhunter http://witchhunter.com/ (the later being the cheaper of the two - only $22) that will clean and rebuild your injectors. they do a pre and post rebuild flow chart comparison of your injector. if you plan on another 100,000 miles to me it's often a good value to do something like this if you're so inclined.

check the fuse box in the engine bay - there's a large 50 or 100 amp fuse block.

awesome, thanks. i asked it partly because i thought it also might be helpful for others to know too as i couldn't find it anywhere. i was kind of surprised i couldn't find it with as many of these that i have broken. of course the 3/4" hose in the auto parts store wont' be anything like the thick, rigid, formed, OEM piece....

LOL - exactly those! you know what i mean! awesome thanks guys. where i live it's not convenient to start a job and need something, and i don't know if it's where i live or what but pretty much every 1990's or earlier large PCV hose in the block has cracked for me when removing it.

1997 EJ22....EJ25...all the same: I googled and searched some forums and struck out - what's the hose size for the large diameter hose going into the engine block up the fittings for the PCV hoses? Need to have the hose in hand for this job....anyone know for sure?

Do you have to remove the large PCV hose coming out of the block? Replacing the ECU Coolant Temp Sensor in my swapped 1996 EJ22-ish Legacy. They all crack when removed so I'd rather leave it in place. Off to see if I can find out what size that hose is so i can just replace it if needed. How to guide on replacing the sensor: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/76279-coolant-temperature-sensor-replacement-how-to/?hl=p0115

it'll need a timing belt kit to be a long term reliable daily driver. but that's easy on these. hard to say. looks like someone trying to flip cars, poor typing skills, little info, and other cars in picture have no tags. so it's likely a car with an unknown history. probably bought at auction...which suggests it was traded in, why? i'd like to rule out headgaskets and torque bind, the big stuff. but it's cheap, those are hard to judge or say anything about, but that one looks clean. that's a SOHC EJ25 with externally leaking headgaskets (coolant and/or oil). that is the only symptom they have so no worries about anything else and that's easily checked for. look for external headgasket leaks, prior headgasket replacement, and test for torque bind.

ha ha, LMAO seriously. it's like they have a box of random connectors and just pick and choose. wait until you see what SRS connectors are like, those things are the weirdest contrivances ever - overdesigned ignorance. they are so complicated that they're damaged unless you have a your second PhD in electrical connection wizardry from Hogwartz - just what you want - a set up that compromises a high percentage of connectors for explosive devices in a vehicle. LMAO.

classic electrical issues: 1. cables not tight or corroded/dirty 2. battery 3. alternator 4. separating crank pulley how many miles and are the battery/alternator original? condition of battery posts/terminal connectors? that engine has a timing belt, not chain. just to clarify since starting in 2001 there are OBW's that do have a timing chain, though most have a belt.

Mileage? How long did it sit? How positive are you that it's the passengers side? Front or rear of engine bay? Passengers side coolant sources: heater core hoses, turbo, oil cooler hoses, radiator. I would considser the oil cooler hoses the most likely...in addition to any turbo related sources. Assuming the car has never been wrecked or any parts removed (engine, etc), the heater core and radiator are unlikely at such low age. Someone that can do a visual needs to check it. There are no common areas for this vehicle that I'm aware of, so outside of that it would be hard for someone to tell you where something is leaking that can't see the vehicle.

are you sure it's headgaskets? the intake manifold gaskets have a water passage through them that can leak into the intake runner, into the combustion chamber and have what looks like headgasket symptoms. for that same reason - use Subaru only intake manifold gaskets - the aftermarkets are thin. use Fel Pro permatorque headgaskets. no retorque procedure required as is with other headgaskets. do not use regular orings between the cam tower and head - those are metal reinforced and only available from Subaru and a very few select aftermarket places like www.thepartsbin.com Subaru EA82 factory service manuals publically downloadable at www.subaruxt.com. that would have the complete subaru run down of the headgasket job.

if rust is ever an issue then they can leak above the gas tank area and not be readily detectable on the ground until it really blows good. calipers/drum hardware can hold fluid if the seals brake and the rubber dust boots retain the fluid - but after months I'd assume you'd have seen some fluid by now.

Favor fewer owners with maintenance records. Were the headgaskets ever replaced in either one? I used to think I'd favor one that's already been done but now I think I'd rather just have one that hasn't been replaced and if it needs it I can make sure it's done right with a better headgasket than most mechanics/dealers install. There's no "normal" mileage for headgaskets. Some blow at 30,000 miles and some never get replaced at 250,000. It's fairly common to have headgaskets but it's more random than it is predictable. Both need complete timing jobs to be long term reliable vehicles. They need not just timing belts, but all the pulleys and tensioner too which are rarely replaced. But at 10+ years old and you just getting it wanting some long term reliability it needs done. Every one I get I do it first thing. Interference engine - if the belt breaks or those pulleys fail (which they do), you'll have bent valves.