idosubaru

where do you get "sheet metal" that's good for body repair/welding like this? i've cut bits out of old fenders, etc - but I don't have any more lying around and that gets hairy due to curving of the fenders, etc.

i have seen folks on a board somewhere talk about replacing the oil pump, i just don't recall who or which one.

i wouldn't swap those cam pulleys. the timing marks are on the drivers side so it won't be the reluctors, but given the different belt geometry and sprocket structure i'd go with a proper metal 2.2 SOHC pulley. i've never heard of interchanging those pulleys before so i'm unsure but your issues sound like classic timing problems...but it's a 15+ year old vehicle so there's plenty of ground for other issues...i'm really helping narrow it down aren't I? :-\ two tests: 1. first is definitely to simply pull the p/s timing cover and look at the timing mark. is it lined up perfectly when the crank mark is lined up? it's only 3 10mm bolts to remove the timing cover....or none if you leave the covers off like some of us. 2. might be able to pull the plugs (if they're relatively new) and compare sides, if the passengers side is notable different than the drivers side then that may suggest compromised timing due to the sprocket change. in the end those timing belts are actually not that hard to do - i can do that in about 45 minutes, and they generally come apart easy if they were just done, but i've done a bunch.

wow - how did you get such a close fit, that's not easy for me to do, I such at that kind of stuff?! Well if it's flimsy then i'm less worried about it being structural and all, it appears rather solid and looks more structural with a cursory glance.

105,000 mile change interval. If the pulleys and tensioner have never been replaced, best to do it soon, or whenever you can get around to it. These timing belts are fairly robust but if a pulley or tensioner fails then the belt breaks or slips and you have bent valves in the engine since yours is interference. Ebay timing kits are $160 - $200 for the pulleys/tensioners. PCI kits or theimportexperts are good choices. The site administrator here can get decent prices for Subaru OEM parts and ship them to you, contact him here: http://www.retroroo.com/ If you use a kit with a water pump, be sure to buy a Subaru water pump gasket, the aftermarket ones suck. And use a Subaru thermostat or the new XACTA brand available aftermarket. A typical thorough timing belt job includes (due to access): Timing belt, tensioner, 2 idler pulleys, 1 toothed pulley Water pump and thermostat Reseal oil pump and tighten the backing plate screws (usually some are loose by now) Cam seals Timing belt has to be removed to replace all of those and they're cheap so many folks just do them all at the same time as preventative maintenance for long term, high mileage reliability. The newer seal material and EJ water pumps are robust and not necessarily prone to issue but 200,000 miles is a lot for either and wouldn't be a surprise to have issues at some point on these consumable items.

$8,000 - wow, that wouldn't sell in a million years even at a dealer here...i realize colorado and NW are insane but I'd look around. With winter and tax season in full swing he's buying at a terrible time, a lot of very bad consumers/buyers are hitting the market now for Subarus. Lots of "I'm buying a Subaru with my tax return" makes for a sellers market, not a buyers. Tell him, or you can for him, to simply google "EJ25 Headgasket" to see how bad this issue is. And the 1996-1999 Outbacks have the EJ25 variety that is the most grievous of them all. I, and many on here, have repaired, replaced, many of them. Very common - a simple google search shows the scope of the issue. It would stink to spend $8,000 on a car then need a $2,000 repair...or worse. If you're going to pay top dollar I'd aim for an EJ22 (but they come in lesser, not as nice models), or get a 2000+ Outback, those EJ25's still have headgasket issues but due to their different failure mode are far less ominous.

could it be a cracked flexplate..or the beginnings of one?

Is it possible that a brand new OEM bushing would be fine? maybe the aged degenerate OEM bushings you've come across are not that good but they're fine when new?

have you gotten stuck yet? would the LSD positively help you? if so, buy one and install it. nice to do a 5 lug conversion for the tires but that's a big step. as you said - they can be a great little functional/practical vehicles, I'd keep it simple and enjoy it for what it is unless there's a compelling reason to entertain upgrades. of course it's fun to play so if you're just aiming for that - yeah tear it up. those EA82's are good at cheap high mileages, focus on that and it might be more palatable. i'd rather have what you have than a turbo EA82, they're not that powerful and have higher maintenance, less reliable, etc for the kind of miles you're racking up. i mean they're okay if your cooling system is perfect, no leaks, and you never overheat it..and it's had a relatively well taken care of and uneventful past history. that takes some effort though on quarter century old hoses and gaskets. ideally they're all replaced for a high mileage practical commuter/work car.

i've seen belts break in a couple months or less when they get significant amounts of coolant or oil on them. it degrades the rubber compounds in the belt, so yes that comment holds some water. now - as to how much it takes to do that, or whether a small amount does anything significant, i have no idea. what I do know is that if the belt gets saturated it breaks down quickly and will break. people are using the PCI kits often for newer interference EJ engines where a broken belt means bent valves. they're a great fit for me anyway.

the knock sensors fail all the time. remove it and it'll be cracked at the base. also if it's ever been messed with it's not hard for the pin to pull right out of the connector and the connector to be compromised/not seating right. there's a very specific technique to installing them, directions are posted on threads here. connector is supposed to be installed at a certain angle and torqued properly. i've never seen that alone cause a check engine light though but if everything else checks out...

i've never noticed a difference. it's easier and cheaper to get new grommets with aftermarket kits i believe. sometimes Subaru grommets are insanely expensive relatively speaking for how many you have to buy. the subaru valve cover gaskets aren't that great, or maybe it's just the nature of valve cover gaskets, of all the gaskets and seals it's the least likely to make 200,000 miles.

oh wow, they don't make i easy to replace? weird. yard let you keep your old trans? yard made me bring mine in for a core.

awesome news indeed. maybe even just needs cleaned up/plugged in or was compromised during removal/storage/install?

welcome. i'd live in Georgia if i could....probably not Atlanta proper by choice though I did for 9 years, but i dig Georgia.

i'd check to see if the throttle is moving properly with the gas pedal. it probably is but with the "hitting the gas - no response" - issue i'd like to verify. if it is the computer, which is very rare in a Subaru...really rare...they are super cheap and easy to replace. just get a used one, they don't fail enough to warrant new prices.

well shiver me timbers was gonna get one of those anyway for ball joints. tie rods too, sold and done! thanks. AAAHA HA!!!!

What tool do you use to remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle without tearing the boot? I live in rust prone area so these aren't expected to be easy. Good luck right....???.... Not interested in replacing on these vehicles...would like to keep them.

oh wow, this one's a roller coaster for you. good luck finishing it up chux!

Any check engine lights ever? If so - get us the codes. Ignition - how old are the wires and plugs? I would suspect the wires need replaced. Snow is blowing into the engine compartment, melting, and causing problems for fatigued insulation of the wires/plugs. That motor does best with Subaru OEM wires and OEM NGK plugs...but at least use high quality ones. I've seen new ones cause issues right out of the box.

http://www.car-parts.com for engines. it seems you favor rebuilt and warranty over experience. this is a forum well versed in Subaru's that know how to get inexpensive, reliable, high mileages out of them...But if you don't have any value in that or want to listen to folks with vast experience, then new or used from the site above sounds like a good fit for you, no need to be here at all. If you want a motor - post in the parts wanted forum of this site, don't ask in this thread, that's not very effective, you might as well post a sign in the local elementary school bathroom looking for an engine. no one selling an engine is going to see this thread except by random chance, which may be how you prefer to operate. essentially you're trusting experience - in rebuilds and warranties rather than here. I prefer the later, you prefer the former. no big deal or need to flame those with experience. if folks replied to you the way you're replying I'm inclined to think you'd get fired up fairly quickly. no one here is condescending, using bold, exercising the smilies.

True. No need for that, any good old Subaru mechanic didn't get by on learned helplessness , hand-fed and catered too...that's why most of us work on our own cars! It's pretty easy to cross reference the part number on amazon, ebay, another auto parts sight, google, etc. They're prices are so cheap it's worth it to many folks, no need to avoid them. But yes - buyer beware indeed, check your parts numbers.

i would start by simply repairing the leak first and then go from there. if it's just a crank seal or valve cover gaskets - that's an hour or less and you're done. why do a multi-day project and replace parts that aren't failing? if you do: use the Fel Pro headgaskets mentioned above, Subaru only on the intake manifold gasket and thermostat (aftermarkets suck). Don't use regular orings on the cam cases/cam carriers, they are metal reinforced Oring, only Subaru has them - or a very few aftermarket places like http://www.thepartsbin.com has them. auto parts stores won't carry them.

ECU doesn't matter - EJ22 and EJ25 ECU's are interchangeable. match the displacement to be precise - so EJ25. As to reliability - there's no concern. It's just an EJ head bolted to an EJ engine. It's the same Subaru head, headgasket, and block...just different bores, no big deal. So it's no different than any other Subaru EJ engine. It's usually an economic decision. EJ25's are far more expensive and harder to find in known excellent condition than EJ22's. EJ25's easily sell for $1,000. Ej22's are easily had for $300. EJ25 are not the most reliable or easy to find for cheap in known, excellent condition. You can google "EJ25 headgasket" and read for an entire year if you're not familiar with their propensity to eat headgaskets and lower end bearings. There's a million ways in which either way is a good fit though...based on cost, ease of maintenance, easy upgrade for a bit of power...etc. I'm practical so I'd go for the EJ22 swap. It's cheap and a HUGE upgrade from an EA82, I don't need more than that. Heck I'd probably install an EJ18. You sound like you want more out of your Subaru's so you might like the 20 (EJ25) or more (FM) hp bump, go for the frankenmotor!

Or install the EJ25D heads onto the EJ251 short block and be done with it. Swapping short blocks would leave the car stock from a maintenance point of view. You mentioned you didn't want to have to tell the new owner that there were special instructions to the engine if you repaired the crank...With the EJ251 they'll have to order a different timing belt, manifold parts, valves adjustment...and IAC, throttle body from something else maybe. Not sure what the compression ratio would be but you're a smart cookie and can crank that out in no time to see if it's palatable.