idosubaru

can you search ebay or whatever and find a picture of the type of key you had? over here that year/vehicle takes a fairly standard, inexpensive remote and regular Subaru key that can be made anywhere for $20 or less. i have a bag of the electronic jokers in my garage, they weren't expensive. so if yours is that much different even though it's the same year we might get help clarifying what key you have.

could put them in some parts cleaner or wire brush them and coat the threads good, and clean out the threads in the heads so your new bolts don't pick up old contaminants. or possibly someone on here could send you some? i've replaced them before and the places I went never had the right length, of course I could get close enough to work with.

i'd check timing components. tensioner could be flopping around under load.....

The name was changed like last year I think. Confused me a few times as well.

oh wow, yeah it can never be simple can it! LOL I'd check coolant level when convenient to keep an eye on loss.

Follow the directions on the side of the bottle. You might be skipping the step to shake it, or not shaking it enough. If the fluid is low enough there's no reason for it all not to go down or to have to play tricks with it to get it in. Radiator replacement is the preferred and much better solution. Radiatorbarn.com has awesome prices. I got a 2000 Forester radiator shipped to my house brand new for like $89.

that sounds right to me, though it's been awhile since i did a manual trans.

+1 to what he said - issue likely resides there. when removing/installing the knock sensor it's not hard to damage the connector/have the pins pulled and not fully connecting. i would expect a check engine light and code of course but it is possible to have sensor issues without codes, it does happen occasionally.

west coast folks ship me some clamps for $10 would you? they probably throw them away and rarely need them or just cut them because they got so many lying around... i tried buying Subaru OEM clamps and the dealer didn't have them. LOL

good job! chase the threads of bolts and torque converter with a tap and die while they're out of the car and they'll thread like better. when installing: 1. place an allen wrench (largest that will fit) through the flexplate holes until it "goes through" the holes in the torque converter. then it's lined up. 2. your chased threads will go in like butter.

fans not coming on, would be most prevalent during idling and cool down when you start moving. you'll want to start keeping your eye open and see if it's random or predictable (highway, city, iling, stopped, moving, temp dependenet, etc).

order it from Subaru. stop in, email one of the online jokers, call them, etc. they'll look it up. subaru has a site called opposed forces, google that and you can likely find the part number. unlikely, i've never seen one leaking, but sounds like a plan to have it in case. the leaks are always the oil separator plate. Make sure you have a new PCV valve, to make sure crankcase pressures aren't excessive and pushing more oil out than necessary. Might want to try that first in case you get lucky and it reduces the oil leak.

Subaru usually offers a 1 year warranty on their repairs - so I'd be getting it back to them pronto. classic EJ25D headgasket signs are bubbles in the overflow tank and no heat in the cabin (it'll be hot for a minute) when it's overheating, and one of the radiator hoses will be relatively cool to the touch. *but* they are capable of different symptoms after being repaired so harder to say definitively. if the coolant is low in the radiator, air bubbles can prevent circulation and cause overheating. why did you let it idle for 40 minutes? radiator could be clogged. thermostat could be stuck.

awesome, keep at it, keep tearing it up! how rusty were the exhaust bolts? did you get the mid-pipe bolts off, those are the most common to be annoying for me with all the rust around here. luckily they usually just shear off right away.

Plain OM shows filter media in a picture in this thread, though he mentions mesh. you've been there already: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/23762-subaru-transmission-filter-different.html but it's a lot different and i have no clue whether it means anything or not. my 200,000+ mile saturated filter media may sound scarier than it is.

Go Dave!!! ` don't know, i thought it had filter media in it...like material?

This is what I don't like. Much about this doesn't make sense. A catalytic converter that passes an emissions test is not worth a $1,000 replacement repair....$1,000 to replace a converter that's converting...and not polluting? weird. Catalytic converters are being replaced by the truck load for thousands of dollars a day due to P0420. Someone should add up all the gasoline, electric, warehousing, and coal needed to mine, smelt, manufacturer, ship, store, recycle and supply the huge market of catalytic converter replacements caused by the P0420 code...for converters that by-and-large ***pass*** emissions testing. LMAO . A pollutions monitoring device that causes massive, unnecessary pollution? Brilliant! Converters are not failing the emissions sniff tests in Maryland....even when they throw a P0420 code they'll pass the sniff tests. I don't trust the converter replacement frequency and diagnosis being liberally handed out.

USMB is pretty good, about one of the best, forums for being low key. nothing like the ill informed stuff on other forums about tires, oil, et.al. like picking up stones in the tread will change the resistance of a given tire and blow up the 4WD. LMAO guess that's area dependent, I've gotten it at NAPA and Advance Auto Parts. but I recall there being one bottle at times....and no wonder with that price tag:dead: I use both.

all Subaru crank pulley bolts are 22mm that I know of (well maybe not the 60's and 70's stuff)...EA81 is the same as EA82, EA82T, ER27, EG33, EJ18, EJ22, EJ25, EJ25T, EZ30....etc. google is your friend and answers in a couple seconds with 22mm too: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69447

No reason for alarm, you have exactly what you thought you had - a 1998 Phase I EJ25. No. No. Either way it doesn't matter and will work...but I guess you want performance and want to know what kind of compression/power you're making and want it to be more of those.

nice hit. if you think about it...report back in another month or few if this worked. very interesting.

good call rooster - switch is most likely - it moves, wears, and gets stuff/debris spilled on it constantly.

i wouldn't think the battery/connecting to be related, just coincidence, but you can try it again and see what happens. both positions of the switch don't work? the heated seats, while a nice novelty item and i have them in my daily drivers, are lame and prone to wearing out/quit working. i'd be more surprised if you posted a thread like this "My heated seats warm up quick, work 100%, and have been for 7 years!"

I would attach a picture of the cracked piece. it's one thing to suggest repairs, etc...but there is a lot of variability in "a broken piece". i could see it being simple and repairable or beyond hope, get us a pic.

at that age with an unknown history a timing belt is likely and it's a wear item requiring replacement, makes sense to check there first. ebay kits are like $60 and include a belt and all new pulleys. the 20+ year old pulleys aren't going to be worth keeping, installing just a new belt would not be a good idea. for example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-94-1-8-SUBARU-1800-GL-LOYALE-RX-XT-NON-TUR-TURBO-TIMING-BELT-KIT-EA82-EA82T-/400333159844?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d35b73da4&vxp=mtr