idosubaru

If it's a non-turbo then you want to look for external headgasket leaks, usually oil, under the engine where the heads meet the block. If it's a turbo - synthetic oil is required by Subaru and necessary. Then 200,000 miles here you come. Some 2009's have a catalytic converter issue too - a recall. Not sure which models it affects, but it's a recall so shouldn't be a big deal, just something to google or ask.

That's pretty common and I've seen it plenty of times too, it's simply never been changed...or maybe really early on at the most. Not that you want it to be your trans, but not burnt and insides looking good sounds promising as you said. How did the front diff gear oil look?

is that a constant 12 volt signal or like a momentary switch? not sure how to test that. thanks.

so there's no way to test this to determine what is wrong? pic of amp side connector here, but i don't think that tells much.

either way it's an easy repair - even if you want to key it or create dowel rods instead like XT6's have. there's no need to swap engines and i've yet to see one significantly hose the timing sprockets or i just replaced them, real simple. i'd keep whichever engine has original headgaskets, if one does and you can tell. that gives a fairly high probability of no prior overheating. the 251 is certainly a nicer engine and easier valves to adjust, etc.

I've seen them be a little wonky and not want to stay in place well on a bench before too so I'm not too concerned by the pictures. New snap ring sounds like the way to go but I've installed some "loose" ones before I didn't like simply because that's how they were and the trans was running fine...always on older stuff. I have a torque converter for an H6 lying in my garage, i could send you the snap ring if it's on there. There's a ring seal on the shaft too, sits in a groove at least on the older 4EATs...I can't recall if my H6 had one or not when I replaced it, might want to get that or make sure it's in place. that can get tweaked and not want to ride tight on the shaft as well. Dealer only on both of those I imagine.

chux, just repair it, it's very common, i've repaired this a number of times and so far have never had to do much of anything. can you post a picture of the damage? you don't need the key way, waste of time to repair that. just file/sand the crank snout smooth so the pulley can bolt flush to it. crank it on tight and it's not coming off. i don't even use a torque wrench - a 2 and a half foot pipe on my socket wrench and i crack it on there good. they don't come off and you'd have to be playing a drinking game to shear that bolt/strip threads on that cast iron chunk. if you sell the car, just be sure to make a note of that to the new owner. you can bolt the 25D heads to the 251 block if it comes to it, i've gone the other way before. and then i'll take the 'ruined' EJ25D block. LOL

two main concerns: 1. flat or mountains. 2. how often. if you're towing in flat land it hardly matters, you can pull that thing by hand (if it's loaded/balanced well) in flat land. brakes will be slow but just drive safe. try pulling it up a hill...or steep mountain grade with switch backs and that's a completely different story. there is no magical line where you *can* and *can't* tow. how often. if it's one time 4 miles...who cares you can tow way more than that. if you're towing consistently then the risks mount much quicker.

As usual with electronics I guessed wrong...I disassembled the second amp and the internal fuse is fine. The board looks immaculate compared to the other, nearly new looking. So - I have one amp with a blown fuse and another amp with a good fuse. And of course a non-working McIntosh system. So either the second amp is bad or something else is wrong. Is this amp "always on" or does it "get turned on" by the headunit? What next? Anyway to test an amp? Does anyone know how that weird DIN connector is supposed to attach/detach, is there a trick to those, they are a very weird connection and make no sense...some strange ring that's threaded looking, but it doesn't thread into anything and the connector feels/appears clipped in but no obvious way to unclip it.

type in tire size calculator on google and go to the miata one. compare dimensions and stick your fingers between the tire and the front strut....you'll likely find that tire is barely any bigger and nowhere near causing an issue.

I'd replace the external one while it's easier, it's old. The only compelling reason to replace the internal one is due to the oring on it, the filter itself as you know is just a screen and doesn't clog. If it has debris in it then your issues are far more ominous than a dirty filter. Whether that oring ever causes a problem I have no idea, seems I've heard of it once, but most orings do have the capacity to cause issues.

excellent!

rear axle and differential replacement...while almost absurd to begin with...shouldn't cost $4,000 - $5,000, that's insane. I guess you're paying Subaru prices but the rear differentials and axles are insanely simple to replace so there shouldn't be much labor charged at all. $500 labor....so $3,500 - $4,500 for a rear diff and axles is plain nonsense. they're $200 or less from a yard and will last the life of the vehicle. i'm sure Subaru prices are very steep for those rarely replaced items, but nonetheless i doubt they're smoking that much crack...are they?! but, you don't care insurance is paying for it all, so doesn't much matter, you're getting all new parts. indeed you're probably just venting and won't even revisit this site! i wouldn't blame you after this debacle.

Unfortunately you (or the aftermarket warranty) are getting worked over. As mentioned, there is no "transfer case" and any part of the transaxle can't be repaired for anywhere near $900. That diagnosis, repair, and cost is all suspect. The most likely scenario is that the first issue was something simple which was misdiagnosed (intentionally or not), lined the wallets of the repair place, improperly repaired, leading to future repairs....etc. The rear differential diagnosis is highly contentious. I personally wouldn't believe it unless I saw it. They simply never fail. It's all speculation now but even you have heard a story from a kid, friend, co-worker that wasn't the truth and had far likelier explanations than they revealed - that's what's happening here. Of the two possible scenarios: 1. the story you were told being what actually happened 2. the story you were told involving incompetence or abuse #2 is far more likely given the high rates of unfairness from mechanics/shops and the very low rates of the kind of work you've been sold.

As you guessed and now doesn't matter - oil/coolant mixing is not good for bearings. Use the Fel Pro Permatorque headgaskets for EA82's. They don't require a retorque procedure like the Subaru gaskets, saves a lot of time and it's proven as it's been used by folks for years. Intake manifold gaskets should be from Subaru, the thin cardboard aftermarket ones are flimsy and are prone to leak. or you could try to cover the cheap-o ones with sealant of some sort if you wanted to use them. thepartsbin.com is the only aftermarket company i have seen that has the small metal reinforced orings between the cams. Subaru obviously has them as well for like 2.50 each. A full on rebuild (meaning main bearings, rod bearings, piston rings) is generally not cost effective and a rather intensive job to do correctly.

agreed - keep the intake with the vehicle if you can. missing - any check engine lights? plugs/wires/coil pack? there's one early SOHC EJ25 issue where there's a different timing belt depending if it's from a Forester or Legacy around 2000...if your 2000 is from a Forester you might look into that. Davebugs has attempted to explain that in depth on here in a post, might want to find that if you think it's worth your time.

6 point socket and a proper wrench/extension/pipe that gives you enough leverage to put some force on it...all the while, keeping the socket fully seated on the bolt head. i've never had that method fail. friend was helping me once and rounded a bolt head off when using a 12 point socket...that's a no-no on those bolts. i've pulled motors with the torque converter attached, it can be done. though if you don't need the flexplate i wonder if there's enough room to get in there and cut it off around the bolts.

No...are you positive it's the green wire? And it's a constant 12 volt source? Could it be a momentary switch type signal? It had no voltage the first time I tested it (before attempting the repair).

It was not a confirmed good amp so I don't know if the car "caused" both or not. Car was wrecked and I bought it as a totaled salvage vehicle 70,000 miles ago. I rebuilt it, drivers side door needed replaced so could be that the wreck caused it to blow. The diode is so tiny I can barely tell what's going on, just some fluffy stuff around the ends that connect to the circuit board. I did solder an external fuse yesterday and got nothing...but I did it rather quick. I'm going to disassemble the second amp. I'll post pictures of any questions I have, I've never really repaired a board before. My soldering iron doesn't actually de-solder the solder on a circuit board...but it works fine for the solder I have.

you were right. i finally tracked this issue down and there's a 25 amp fuse soldered to the board inside the amp. it was blown...probably in both amps that i tried. i'm going to solder some wire to it and mount an external fuse so it's not such a pain to get to. recent thread tracking it down here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1159047#post1159047

*Solved* finally! Thanks guys for the tips and pin outs! High five! I disassembled the amp and there's a 25 amp fuse soldered to the board. I assume the other amp will reveal the same. I'm going to solder wire to it and mount a fuse holder externally on the case. Questions: 1. Any tips for soldering wire/mounting the external fuse? 2. There's one crusty diode - can I test that via continuity - in one direction right? 3. Should I spray the board down with anything...cleaner...etc? I'm not fixing the board only to have the fuse blow immediately and have to disassemble it all over again. I'll mount the fuse externally on the side of the case. It is obvious that being under the seat it not ideal. There is dust and debris galore and one of the diodes appears crusty on each side. I've got kids so he back seat area gets well used. Owners with amps (and kids LOL) may want to be sure to keep it clean, dry, and dust free under the passengers seat. Thank you much! Looks like I may finally have this McIntosh system up and running soon finally.

There is one light green wire...no voltage to it. Can someone verify if there's supposed to be a "power on" wire to the amp and which one it is? I'm going to try to take one amp apart and see if I can find a fuse inside of it.

I can't find anything wrong. at the amp: Pins 1 & 7 both have 11.20 volts. Pins 10 & 11 both have continuity to ground. So headunit and amp all have power/ground. THREE different McIntosh stereos all act identically. TWO different amps, using all three stereos with each one, no change. Any other Subaru stereo and I get sound out of the front two speakers. I can't verify the amps are coming on or doing anything though. They have power and ground but there are no lights or anything at them. So - how to test the amps? When I first install each headunit the LCD flashes "SYS"...I assume just because it was plugged in. Push the ON button and they all operate the same. * But maybe this SYS message indicates something else? So: 1. I'm missing something 2. Both amps are bad 3. All three headunits are bad Amps seem most likely....so how to test/verify they're doing anything....I'm going to pull one apart and see if I can find a fuse in it...

More updated/complete information below....

02 H6 McIntosh. Need some audio/electrical folks. Had this car a long time and have never been able to figure this out. I've already checked fuses, swapped speakers, amp, fuse, stereo's (3 times). The hardware *seems* ruled out, time to start tracking... How many items are plugged into the back of a McIntosh stereo - is it three: antenna, amp cable, and normal Subaru connector? Swapped in 3 different McIntosh stereos and none have any sound. Swapped in another amp and rear speakers (I already know the fronts work). I guess I need to test for power to the amp - It's supposed to get 12 volts I assume? Can I test for an output signal from the headunit to the amp....what kind of voltages are those unamplified signals? Is there any access to the metal pins, those are some tiny round DIN connectors or whatever they're called, not sure I can get a multimeter pin on the pinouts? Or any other way to test a McIntosh stereo besides plugging it into a car (which I'm not sure is properly functioning to begin with). With a WRX 6 disc changer installed the front speakers work fine, just like any other Subaru, that's what I've been using for awhile.