idosubaru

Read the owners manual. You can run any reasonable oil. It would be fine. I’d probably avoid 5W on EA engines but for no reason. For what it’s worth GDs shop superior in Portland runs 5w-40 synthetic as a rather standard oil for various non turbo applications, I think including EA engines. Of course hotter temps will be less ideal for thinner oils and that’s a good reason to check the manual like prior post mentions.

Are there any engine codes (check engine light)? Not saying this to be mean but for clarity: running well isn’t important - are there any check engine engine lights or codes? Check if the ATF pan is dented. It can cause problems much easier than a dented engine oil pan. You can attempt to extract the AT codes: some newer Subarus like 2005 ish I think but I forget the years, I have a very easy way to read the codes without any scanner. Not sure it applies to 2002 or the classic schizophrenic multiple personality disorder meth smoking strategy Subaru employed here which you can do yourself with no scanner:

Check the ATF fluid level. Are there any engine codes?

Why’s that? I’ve got three to unload hope you’re right.

How do you know it’s 3.08? Where did that number come from?

If it has the OEM code (or part number?) on it can you post the number or put the number into a Subaru online parts website and see what comes up?

Yeah I have seen (and heard, CLICk!) the trim do that as well.

It usually doesn't. I've never seen a Subaru have any change of driving due to replacing a fuel filter. It might not be it, but it's the one EJ25D vehicle sensor I've seen cause issues but not throw a code.

Well…maybe the miles of rough gravel roads daily commute

What did you do to fix it? Im nearly positive mine is sag. I can hear it hitting the striker low and doesn’t appear to be any interference around the edges.

Eventually you’ll have more miles than trips to the shop on this car. ?!?!?!?!? Lol SMH

Yeah you can just spray carb cleaner or startintbfouod around all the hoses with the engine running and listen to the engine. If it sucks any in due to a leak you’ll hear the engine respond immediately. im sure you can google it. fuel pressure. Just need to hook up a pressure gauge into the rubber line by the drivers side fender well. Subaru doesn’t have an existing port to check it. You just have to Tee into it.

probably need to test for a vacuum leak not look for one check the timing belt belt alignment and pulleys check fuel pressure if you have a spare MAF, swap it to test that clogged cats can glow red - look at it after driving.

Wow, I imagine they'll jump right in and fix that. Seems like it had to be something that happened during that job.

Lean fuel - check for a vaccuum leak in the engine bay. Does it do all the time, once in awhile, only at start up, on highway, driving slow....?

excellent news on no surgery.

Front inner axle joints. Aftermarket axles highly suspect. Might get away with regreaseing the joints but simpler to get some used Subaru axles. Front diff can do it too but I’d expect you to tell the difference.

I've seen the P0026 P0028 go away just by changing the oil filter numerous times. As a matter of fact I think every single time I've seen those codes they went away with a new oil filter. They're very sensitive to the filter, particularly H6 engines, even Subaru filters. Of course you'll just do a proper oil change, sounds like it's waaaaaay overdue, but thought I'd let you know what I've seen. Good chance the AT code just goes away due to being an artifact of multiple start attempts or the other two codes.

Tough call. First make sure it’s blown. Local is nice for an FB for the easier warranty and potentially look up the VIN to see if it has any oil consumption or valve spring repairs/warranty/recall, maintenance history. But I’d be fine with JDM too.

Sounds like HG not fitted in proper orientation. They only install one way and can’t be flipped front to back or top to bottom.

What a saga! ?

I don’t think I’ve gotten H4s of that vintage. 06+ H6 installed years ago, after 135k miles it started headgasket issues last year. Came with two damaged connectors from shipping, not unsurprising for shipped/JDM engines. taped one and never had issues and spliced the other from the original engine. I installed new VCGs and OEM iridium spark plugs…and probably the oil cooler seal, when I installed the engine and never touched the engine again for 135,000 miles except oil and belt.

Did you install one helicoil or two? They’re short right? They need stacked and threaded tightly to one another? you can also get right angle drill attachment or sometimes I’ve rented a really nice right angle drill. Gives more space and better control Worst case scenario I had a timing bolt rip a huge chunk of engine out. The bolt was threaded into a big chunk that just snapped right out of the block. No fluid cavities. A machine shop threaded the block and made a huge rump roast threaded replacement piece of metal with the treaded timing bolt hole in the middle. Installed their custom insert. Installed timing bolt and pulley on that. Worked great and they charged me like waaaay to little money for it like $200 or something absurd. I’d never expect that again but it was way better than expected when everyone said the engine was toast. It was my car and ran great.

$450 is probably new and $180 is probably rebuilt. Subarus rebuilt offerings are inconsistent and subject to change. legacy axles are a dime a dozen used. $35-$60. buy used and reboot it and you’ll never have to think about it again. I have a few but they’re so easy to find it’s not worth boxing and shipping to someone. If yours are OEM they can probably be cleaned regressed and rebooted and you’re good to go. after market are trash but at least a legacy isn’t lifted at all so the angles are shallower, it’ll be more forgiving of garbage axles.

Oh man that's so tough. But hey you are VERY close. I have chased the existing/damaged threads and installed a longer bolt a couple of times. The bolt holes are sometimes (always?) deeper than the bolts, so there are unused clean threads in the bottom of the holes. You can poke a tooth pick or coat hanger down the hole and compare it to the length of bolt sticking out the back of the pulley so you know how much "additional" thread you're getting. Not that you'd want to do this of course!