idosubaru

Tires probably need balanced. But, so we aren’t guessing so much: How positive are you this symptom did not exist before you worked on it? We don’t want to assume it’s the studs if it’s not. do the tires need balanced? What brand and how old are the tires? Why did a wheel stud need replaced? If it’s an open nut, look at the captive depth of each stud in the center of the nut. Are they all the same depth? If it’s not an open nut - are they all seated fully?

Sounds like the clutch hose is internally collapsing and not allowing fluid to flow freely for nominal operations. Free it up - fine - stick - free it up - fine - stick…. Unsure how to confirm that or diagnose it for sure but often collapsed hydraulic hoses allow fluid to flow one way - the way with leveraged pressure, but not a way with less, or non-leveraged, pressure like a spring, gravity, light incidental contact, etc replace the hose and have a list of favorite cuss words handy to bleed it. Lol

A 93 22 intake manifold won’t plug into the EJ25. It could work if you bolt a 1995-1998 EJ22 intake manifold on it and figure out all the minor pvc and vacuum and other bits. 93 EJ22 block bolts to EJ25 trans and exhaust. Bolt 95-98 intake manifold onto 93 engine and it’ll plug into the EJ25. 1995 EJ22 from an automatic is the direct bolt in option. Manual 95 works too but just won’t have EGR which you can easily work around. 1996-1998 EJ22 are all bolt in and plug and play if you also get a single port EJ22 exhaust manifold. It bolts right in place. The EJ25 exhaust is dual port and won’t bolt to the 96+ EJ22. (95 EJ22 has dual port exhaust heads so it bolts right up to the ej25 exhaust

Sure: look for rust, drop in a 2.2 with new timing bits and you’re golden. $1,500 seems high for a non running 90s Subaru with a blown engine but I’m guessing you’re in the PNW? long explanation: You know this I’m sure: Those 90s 2.5s blow headgaskets all the time. It’s probably not a cracked head, there’s no way someone put the effort into distinguishing between headgaskets and blown head. Although it probably doesn’t matter these things usually overheat in such a way that people often limp them and overheat them multiple times. Good chance you’ll see evidence of a new cooling system part (or 5) as people chased it, they often diagnosed those engines incorrectly. they’re prone to multiple overheats before someone figures out it’s the headgaskets. Also at this age the chance of this being a second (or third!) head gasket is high as well (and maybe prompted the cracked head guess). Anyway - all of those reasons make this a really risky repair and an engine I’d rather not keep. They’re prone to losing the lower end bearings due to all the prior overheats That’s why Larry and I would just drop a 2.2 in it. Much better engine. if you love risky engines and want it, look for signs of distorted/warped melted timing belt covers or knock sensor indicating extreme external temperatures. I’ve seen them with new headgaskets blow an engine within a month had signs of overheating like that. They were engines I told someone not to keep and the person didn’t listen. If you do repair it resurface the heads. Don’t bother checking for flatness, it’s a waste of time. They always have high and low spots 100% of the time and you want proper surface roughness on an engine that loses headgaskets this easily. Use Subaru gaskets and clean and lubricate the head bolt threads to make sure they torque properly. If they’re not rusty reuse them.

Looks like the CV boot is cracked and slinging grease. Clear signs of it slinging out. How old is the axle? Theres a very small chance it could be old grease we are seeing. Check the axle boot for cracking. Or give us closer pictures of the ribs/convolutions so we can look for a crack. If it is, Reboot or replace the axle.

I was answering your question “(no other options, correct?)”. Yes - That is correct, CVT is the only option for that model.

There were two possible legacy engines in 1994. Non turbo and turbo EJ22. run the VIN and it’ll tell you. One of the numbers in the VIN tells you if it was originally turbo or not. are you positive the original paper is actually the original for that exact car? And how do you know it says EJ22G? It would be no surprise to blow a turbo motor and install a much cheaper and easier to find non turbo EJ22 particularly on those older models with simplistic electronics All 1990-1998 EJ22s are interchangeable with effort, in spite of a few differences. Electronics change in 1995 despite it retaining the dual port exhaust of 90-94 models. turbos were available 1990-1994. There were no turbo engine available in US market 95-98 legacy.

Fabulous fix. Thanks for posting. did you cover it in antiseize? You used a lock wager under the head? The metal is probably low grade and will corrode easily. if the timing covers are still intact that’ll help. Not a big deal, much better to deal with that one or two more times in the distant future if needed than the mess of getting that stud out. I think I had one years ago with a bolt entirely missing.

You could install the Trans and run it in FWD to negate the final drive issue. Also unsure about the torque converter but they should swap just fine. I’d be unconvinced the trans is fine and it’s only the torque converter though for how much labor that is.

Yeah a legacy won’t be the same final drive ratio is an Impreza. So the easiest is to find the right one. A diff swap isn’t hard but will add another $100 and effort making sure you get the right one some years are easy but not 02, not for me at least. I haven’t worked on that generation Impreza much and it saw a few changes If that’s not a turbo engine the small 2.0 might not like the taller legacy 4.44 gearing anyway. It’ll struggle more with one or more of mountain grades, pulling a load, and larger wheels. If you always drive alone, carry no weight or people or tow, don’t drive in mountains and don’t have large wheels/tires it wouldn’t be very noticeable.

Chux is right - they’re the same phase so it’ll install fine but will require one extra step: the legacy and Imp final drive won’t match. The simplest solution is to swap the rear diff to match the trans 4.44 final drive ratio. legacy should be 4.44 so you’ll need a 4.44 rear diff that accepts your Impreza axles. 02 Impreza rear axles May not slide into a 2001 legacy rear diff. I could be wrong I don’t follow Impreza closely I’m unsure if the rear axles swap but Impreza and legacy rear axles aren’t always interchangeable in the same year. Legacys went to newer axle style before Imprezas. Not sure when that happened and Imprezas had a few changes through the early 00’s. so you’ll have to research which axles the 02 Impreza uses and get a matching 4.44 rear diff That being said there’s no way losing fluid in a radiator swap was enough to trash the transmission. losing that amount would not bring the fluid level from between the low/high marks on the dipstick, to not registering on the dipstick, which it would need to in order to damage anything. Also if the trans were that unforgiving to losing a pint of fluid or less they’d be blowing up left and right with steep mountains and spirited driving sloshing the fluid around.

Well it sort of is and isn’t, and there’s anomalies. In 96 the EJ25 is interference but all other EJs are not. I’ve seen one “documented”, meaning enough seemingly good investigative work and known history, case of a 96 suffering bent valves. I’d guess they’re very rare and maybe some have been swapped by now in some way to change their interference status. And I’ve heard a couple claims of interference with evidence on par with that of Bigfoot sightings.

Nonissue once he realizes he doesn’t need an oil pump. There’s no way a JDM EJ has a proprietary Japanese only pump. I’ve installed JDM engines. Don’t think I’ve ever swapped oil pumps on a Japanese motor but plenty of other parts between US and Japan. If he’s positive it’s the pump it can be resealed. Tighten the backing plate screws, one very commonly replaced oring, and bolt it back up with new RTV While it’s out the clearances from the FSM can be measured. I mean no one ever does that but if they’re that concerned about it there’s an option

Yes sir, thanks, that makes the most sense to clear that up.

True I am assuming a lot in this very vague request. Although a failed VLSD can be used to convert an MT Subaru to FWD or RWD. Lol

yes. Final drive ratios differ but they’re interchangeable. Match the rear diff, drive in FWD or otherwise address the final drive ratio and swap away. also 99 is an odd cross over year of Phase I and II. 956-98 stuff is easy and simple. 99 can still interchange but there can be quite a variety.

Yes CVT only. Make sure all the recalls are done when you get one. You can add a Subaru extended warranty to any Subaru still under the factory warranty. I’m just not sure if a second owner can if you buy it used. If you can do that as a second owner, another option is to buy one still under original factory warranty and add the extended Subaru warranty. It used to be relatively inexpensive for 100k or even 120k warranty so it was a great deal for some folks. Subaru did I think start limiting dealers from selling the warranty for cars not sold at their dealer. You used to be able to buy the car in New York then call a dealer in Texas to add the warranty. I don’t think you can do that now and so your pricing may be worse or depending on local dealer. It is negotiable in price though so you can google what others have paid.

something is seriously messed up in that picture. The toothed pulley is not next to the cam sprocket. there’s a smooth pulley next to each cam, there shouldn’t be a toothed cogged idler all the way up there. I’m guessing it totally disintegrated or sheared the bolt off and jumped up that high. That’s the one most likely to fail by 100 miles.

No. If you’ve gotta be cheap get a Subaru belt and lower cogged pulley. You can even leave the covers off to monitor the condition of the other pulleys. The others fail less often and the belt can slide over them instead of everything turning to $!&’jnj!$&! immediately if it fails. The pulleys will rust if it sees a lot of winter snow treatment. Still can run it as the riding and contact surfaces stay clean but it does rust If you get an aftermarket kit don’t use the included bolt, they’re substandard low grade metal and I’ve seen them shear within months of installation (not installed by me) No point replacing the pump. Those EJ pumps fail so rarely you have far more chance of your new aftermarket parts failing than an old pump if it’s OEM. At most maybe it leaks later but probably not. I’ve never seen a failed OEM EJ water pump. Other Subaru water pumps I would replace proactively but not cost conscious EJ jobs.

Awesome. Thanks Chux, very much appreciated. 2016 is the year I’m currently thinking about so I might buy that same alt you looked up If I can’t find a low mileage used OEM. Currently 200,000 miles started life as a southern car, zero rust, in impeccable condition so there’s a decent chance of a lot more miles so I’ll likely replace the alt preemptively.

(Ignoring 00-04 fuel pump cap tab cracking and oring issues). I’d guess alternator but have never kept track. Alternator sees more heat cycling, isn’t sitting in a “cooling fluid” (a tank of gas like a fuel pump), and it has more of a “computer” with the built in voltage regulator. I’ll ask my parts guy how many alternators vs fuel pumps are in the regional warehouse for fun.

In anticipation of your typical responses like this I intentionally put “manufacturer” as the first word of my reply. Manufacturer and type have no bearing in this context.

Subaru only on wheel bearings and use a torque wrench that’s accurate. Or the OEM supplier if you can verify it. Sometimes you get an OEM bearing in a MOOG or Beck Arnley Box then the next time you buy the same bearing, same car, same supplier you get a non-Subaru bearing? Moving target unless you can verify the manufacturer. Non-Subaru Aftermarket wheel bearings are trash and fail all the time. They fail less often if torqued very carefully, use a toque wrench. Follow the Subaru manual procedure. Torque before putting the car on the ground. I can zip on Subaru bearings without a torque wrench and they never fail. The aftermarket bearings needing much more babied gives me littlr confidence in the long run so I avoid them when I can If you’re having repeat failures using OEM Subaru bearings and proper torque settings then let us know: 1. Has it had an alignment? 2. Do you have records of how many times and mileage you’ve replace each rear bearing? Post it if you do 3. have you owned it since new? 4. has it ever been wrecked? 5. Is it rusty?

Manufacturer or pattern difference doesn’t matter. It’s size dependent. It’s like driving a Subaru or truck on pavement with locked 4WD, which binds when turning. Different size tires can cause the same exact issue by virtue of tire circumference difference rather than turning radius difference. Subaru lists their recommendations looks like others have posted that If it’s a VDC or has a VTD, they’re indestructible in regards to the rear transfer gear set. Run 4 dramatically different tires and you won’t blow that thing up. Im joking but I don’t care to run a mismatched tire on VTD, it doesn’t matter. From a physics stand point running one new tire on a Subaru isn’t a big deal if you pay attention to your diffs. But that’s too technical for public consumption. On MPT transmissions with open front and rear diffs, If buying one new tire - place it where your tires wear the most (front or back). Rotate the older three tires until the new one wears down to the same tread depth and then they’re all the same. The smaller tire diameters will be the “driven” tires since power goes to the one needing less torque. From an engineering stand point the larger tire won’t be the one the differential “sees”. There are tire shops that will install two new tires - one on the front and one on the rear opposite side of Subarus for these same reasons. I never figured out why they do opposite sides except maybe just for traction on both sides of the car for rain/snow. if you have rear vlsd they usually fail and operate as an open anyway. Lol. But if one cares, put the larger one up front which is usually seeing more wear on older Subarus. If it doesn’t then you’ll have the unfortunate situation of the smaller tires wear outpacing the new larger one. Now if the three wear down you’ll be be stuck with one smaller tire and potentially 3 new tires which is a trickier situation to juggle regarding “mismatched tires”. If you have more than 4 tires just rotate them accordingly until they all match.

I imagine this was already mentioned but I’ve seen some 2005+ vehicles have idling/stalling problems after having the battery disconnected for awhile. I assumed the ECU has some relearn procedure due to lost stored data.