idosubaru

Do you believe their assessment? The stereo currently works right? Is it wired directly to the alt or have a large amp/capacitor? The stereo harness is quite a bit distant and removed from the engine harness, that doesnt make sense. It cant damage the far away engine wiring without damaging the wiring at the stereo. It’s not like the stereo wiring is better than the engine wiring. I’m surprised they could say that with a straight face or without more explanation. Can you get it to an independent shop?. They’ll install a lower cost used harness and probably charge less labor. Probably lower cost in the long run

I’d clear the codes, pull the ABS fuse and then read the codes and post them all here. Theres a chance you may have separate issues. I don’t see the ECU running the engine perfectly fine but causing the ABS to go haywire that seems very unlikely post us some check engine and any other system codes If you try programming the ECU let us know how it goes I’ve got an Autel scanner that does all the SRS, VDC ABS, etc, but don’t know if it has that functionality Use Subaru headgaskets too on that other engine.

engine (or trans) has to come out. Otherwise it’s easy. You generally do a complete clutch job while you’re in there unless you love pulling engines multiple times.

Vibration under load, accelerant or uphill, is almost always the inner CV axle joints or the front diff. Since they’re almost touching it can be hard to distinguish the two. with the lift my guess is the axles. I have an SJR 2” lift and aftermarket axles can’t handle it. Bang bang bang rear view mirror shaking

Yeah just pull the ABS fuse - it'll drive just like a vehicle without ABS and the brakes will work perfectly fine. Then you can move on to other issues until you figure out a repair option. I'm not sure about reprogramming the ECU - I wasn't aware there were scanners that could do that, but I haven't tried. The local dealer charges $100 to program and I think you need all your key FOB's on hand to do it all at the same time. Unless maybe they can do ECU and FOB's separate, but I'd have them all on hand just in case. They charge the same amount no matter how many keys you have so it's a good time to add a spare since the programming of it would be free. Are you sure the ECU is bad? They do fail but that's kind of new for ECU failure. Are you sure the front diff/trans is bad on it? Sorry that's rough. I'm not a huge fan of the 05-09 era - the struts are weak, the power steering pumps fail all the time and aren't easily rebuilt/replaced/aftermarket suck, wheel bearings worse, swaps and other work harder due to the canbus and immobilizer issues, all downgrades from prior generations. And headgaskets. Ther're not really that bad if you replace the headgaskets, and the struts/power steering aren't going to strand you, the automatic transmissions are the 4EAT and very stout, capable of a lot of miles. Headgaskets - use Subaru gaskets, resurface the heads, clean the bolts and holes, and torque properly and they shouldn't fail again for 100,000 miles. Aftermarket gaskets often fail within the first year.

Just pull the ABS fuse for now so the car is usable without battery dying and obsessive noise/brake activity. Pop the hood and open the main fuse/relay box by the strut tower. Fuse slot 1 there. Or fuse slot 33 in the cabin fuse panel down by your left knee. On mid-90's Subaru's they had a common issue where the ABS relay would fail and cause the exact same issue - ABS activating nonstop even when the car was off. Just replace the relay. Not sure if you have one or where it's located. Could also be a the controller. I'd bet it's not mice but maybe, I have seen rodent damage. Sounds like the same thing could be happening here. On those units the relay was actually attached the ABS unit you have pictured.

That was decent of them to try, I mean they're trying to flip something imperfect for a low trade value/appease you, but still decent they're considering options. Some Subaru dealers will install used parts, depends on the dealer, it's worth asking. car-part.com probably has cheap ones since they've already got the car disassembled. i'd ship it for $100 if the dash wouldn't take days to get out.

2900 labor more reasonable than 4000. seems like all those engine pulls it’s possible the harness got yanked or compromised The 2014 bulkhead i have is yours for $1,000 shipping included lol.

It had an engine pulled right? (Maybe even twice, I seem to recall you having a hard time on this thing) 1. Did this CANBUS issue, or any similar issue exist before then? 2. Why was the engine pulled? I think it was mechanical/warranty but trying to be thorough and have the whole timeline 3. How long after the engine pull did the issue start? If it happened after that, there’s a good chance something that happened during work. There’s a few online hits for what has been a relatively obscure part for decades online. Theres complete dash removal video for bulkhead from I-wire. They sell replacement bulkhead connectors requiring de-pinning/re-pinning which seems prone to housing issues/wobbly pins, etc. I wonder if yours could have a damaged connector ? You said they saw damaged wires though? Nothing directly related to yours but 2011 Outback - there’s a couple interesting pictures and noted issues here https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/engine-bulkhead-harness-connector-problems.504735/

If you were digging into this yourself at all you could look into the service manual and what it says about bulkhead replacement. I might even have the 2014-2017 forester, I rebuild a totaled 2017 forester two years ago. I scoured through this crosstek which would very similar in form factor, process, labor - for you briefly but couldnt' find it. Although I did find the dash removal under interior/exterior trim. https://www.sucross.com/subaru_crosstrek_service_manual-728.html

Oh wow, they dug in. It may require dash removal. That's often mentioned as being a 8-12 hour swap for a dash but I've never done one. $4k implies 25 hours of labor. Still a lot of fat in there but maybe there's more to remove and there's a little bit (not much) engine side disconnecting too. Best case scenario would be to identify the precise cause. If it's just light damage or concentrated to a couple wires, find the compromised wires and replace just those individually by passing them one by one through the fire wall. But Subaru can't do that. They only replace entire parts, they wont just run a new wire to bypass a bad one. If that's the case you'd be better off going somewhere else who can do that. If it's excessive damage like rodent damage - then you're probably sitting where you are right now - need a whole new harness and to make sure no other wires were also damaged. The rodent damage I've seen is always one of two areas - really easy/convenient areas like behind a headlight or areas with lots of food - around seats or foot wells in a car with kids. Maybe anecdotal but I've seen a few and those things have always held, not counting old cars that sat for years which is unlikely to be yours.

Has it always made the noise since the clutch job or just started making the noise?

I don’t think there’s anyway to prove it. but yes, it could happen If they got damaged during engine work the most likely area is right by the engine. The connector itself or pins or wire from engine to firewall areas. Maybe the connectors were left plugged in during lifting or left on the IM and stretched, etc. It would be nice to verify a bad wire - check resistance/continuity from cabin to engine. Find one bad wire and then test that wire from the engine to the firewall. See if the compromised area is between the engine plug and firewall.

just noise or vibration and noise? what happens if you also turn the steering wheel without changing speed? Like around a downhill sweeping curve If it’s just noise then clutch or pilot bearing related. vibrating under load is usually inner cv axle joint or front differential. surprised it doesn’t do it when accelerating up hill. Try getting to a stop sign facing up a steep slope and accelerating fast while turning very sharply. Does it make noise then? If you suspect front diff - drain the front diff fluid and sift through the oil for gear bits or swirly metal Thunk between shifts is probably the rear differential bushings or transmission bushings. Window weld can be used to fill in the old rear diff bushings. Clean and prep well. Cut cardboard circles to hold the window weld in place from one side,’and slowly build it up a little at a time so it doesn’t “fall” or flow out of place

Look for a complete hatch. Can you just live with it? If leaking, have it reinstalled. If it’s shattered and hard to find a replacement I wouldn’t be beyond attempting a DIY polycarbonate solution with an eye towards easy future replacement. Some car folks use them for unavailable parts and some postions are less problematic than others. NASCAR vehicles use it. Of course they’re designed with it in mind but the rear hatch is about the best place to use it and mitigates most of the downsides. .

T-Type: is that the 1/2” T shape trim at the exterior top of the windshield? The stalk of the “T” sits down in the windshield gasket?

Miss the simpler days as well. I've ran into issues with that area before fender, headlights, grille, hood all follow one anothers curves. trying to figure out which of those need to be swapped to use different year parts.

Yep, more logistics, though still the best option in terms of price, warranty, and local access rather than shipping the product and shipping potential warranty claims.

Don’t know, only have the H6 one written down and it’s not the same part number.

Subaru part # 10103AB820 New Subaru short block, 3 year Subaru warranty, $2,000 https://parts.raffertysubaru.com/p/Subaru__Legacy/Short-Block-Engine/49223018/10103AB820.html

They're rather tame, I don't think there's any major concerns. EZ engines i don't think have that happen to any greater extent than average. I'm sure you've seen it but there's a TSB for it.

Maybe it got the “turn the radio up the car is making a noise again” fix. The timing sprockets were also gouged and loose?

I’ve got a leaky windshield and would like it reinstalled on my XT6 Any tips on saving existing trim/clips? How much problem do you guys have with trim and clips breaking during removal?

Here's an EA82, ER27 (XT6) solenoid. OEM looks the same with the crimped casing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224219322935?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3Da63accd2079a4c188a89dfcb86847b4d%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D224219322935%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3A2782821b18c0a8d8e9dc1a51fffee416|pageci%3A6d8c20d9-9099-11ee-9a94-5a1bd6dadb96|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage The Ebay solenoids I've bought for tractors are similarly priced and cheaply made (shocker!). Rebuild OEM is preferred but there may not be an option except $150 for a new one which is part number 23343AA090. Interesting how some Subaru models are rebuildable or parts aren't carried and other models have all the bendix gears, tabs, levers, etc. https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/p/Subaru_1996_Impreza/Starter-Solenoid/49233322/23343AA090.html This shows same 90's impreza/outbacks being the same solenoid so I may scour some pull it yourself yards close to my christmas holiday travels if I can sneak away and the weather isn't nasty.

But the solenoid doesn’t have any bolts or screws, this one is crimped and pressed together. It doesn’t look like it can be disassembled.