idosubaru

Should be 06-09 if you reuse all the original manifolds/wiring to the vehicle. I'm not positive on that, but ebay JDM suppliers are showing 06-09 for compatibility.

Good suggestion but 2005+ OB/Legacy has VVT and wouldn't be interchangeable (without very significant effort). Also, the ineffectiveness of the spacer should be due to 2005+ ECU software changes rather than engine changes. Does it say "pending"? Or do you just click "READ CODES" and it shows that code with no other information? Maybe it's seeing a code from memory? Ideally you clear the codes first. Then do your preliminary drive as brusbrothers stated. Then check the codes. This ensure they are indeed new codes. I hate to say it - but can you clear and do one more drive?! Not all the time, there are "Pending" codes. It's best to clear first, run, then read. And ideally tell us how the scanner is working (read/memory/pending/etc) since each scanner has different user textual interfaces. One of mine even has a rudimentary GUI to start.

You should be able to just put the spacer in and let it rectify itself and the light goes out. i routinely install the spacer and clear the code immediately because ivE never had issues with the monitors being ready. but yours seems different and doesn’t respond as we are expecting Your issues may be swap related somehow. You should easily be able to swap those motors with no issues. EJ25 swapped into EJ22 vehicles has been done thousands of times and those spacers are well known work arounds for pre 2005 Subarus. That’s why brusborthers wouldn’t work - his was a 2005 and that’s when immobilizer CANBUS and the O2 data starts to get used by the fuel injection. It’s much more sensitive. In 2004 and earlier the rear sensor is just a trigger for the P0420 code. You can completely disconnect the sensor and the car runs fine. Can’t do that 2005+. But clearly you have issues so it makes me wonder what all happened during that swap?

The Subaru converter for your car is $1,300 from Subaru, so sounds like they might be pricing a new bolt on unit from Subaru. Which has a really good chance of making the light go out. Do you know if they were quoting a new Subaru part or something else? If I was spending $1,400 it would only be for the Subaru part, no way I'm paying that for aftermarket converters. Which O2 sensors have been replaced so far and were they plug and play or wired in? Hopefully the right sensor is in the right location and they were wired properly if they're the generic loose wire variety. I'd also probably gamble on this: https://www.fastwrx.com/products/oxygen-sensor-spacer-with-cat Never used one myself, but for $50 looks awesome. it's like a mini converter right before your O2 sensor. If you're going to replace exhaust - it doesn't hurt to ask around and get a second opinion.

Sorry I forgot to check. I wont' have access to my parts stash until Sunday/Monday. They're guessing, I would avoid that unless you are desperate and have no choice but to gamble with 4 digits of cash to pass that lame emissions. This is the way. lol Being a 4 cylinder all the work has probably already been done and maps are already out there for you. but it is techy and dense to dive into.

I would have new bolts ready for anyone in the future doing this. Although the bearing unit threads should damage before the bolt. In other situations I've had some threads get compressed/damaged doing this before. It also helps to take a huge chisel and just spin the entire wheel bearing in place. Keep pounding one of the bolt hole ears until the bearing assembly starts to turn counter clockwise (or clockwise). It'll get easier once it starts turning. This breaks some of the rust before trying to get it to come out. The chisel can then be turned at a slight angle to help walk the bearing out a millimeter out at a time. Brutal method, and good luck not smashing the disc brake shield, but I've had that work when pounding the bolts from the back didn't on an outback that lived close to coastal salt water/sand. But heat is the bees knees, some of these are absolutely brutal to remove, just don't always have access to that.

I'll check when I get back to the car Sunday. Thanks!

Ah thanks, I didn't think of checking the bushings. I'll check those bolts too. These are brand new 225 60 16" tires, so they're huge for an older gen/XT6. Definitely won't go that big again. Do you know Numbchux - raising the rear 1" of suspension lift, that causes the rear wheel to move *Forward* in the wheel well right? Because the rear control arm will make an arc forward? I have a much shorter front drivers spring installed than the front passengers side (don't ask, I was experimenting), and it's making the entire drivers side, even the rear sit lower about an inch. Once I lift that back up and get the 1" back in the rear - and that should pull the body up above the horizontal widest part of the tire. So that'll gain some clearance just by raising it back up that 1". Although then I'll be at risk of rubbing if I carry more weight in the car and it sits lower. I think that 1" lift will gain more clearance than i'll loose due to the swing/arc of the rear cross member pulling the tire forward a little.

All looks normal (owned over 20 XT6's over 30 years). New tires and struts, coils good.

The drivers side rear tire basically touches the mud guard (the front mud guard) and rubs the metal even with the mud guard removed. The passengers side tire has 1/2" clearance with the mud guard still in place. The drivers side rear corner also sits a little lower to the ground than the passengers side. I have a different spring to install that'll level it all out - but lifting it pushes the tire FORWARD more right? Making the rubbing worse? But also lifting it a little will get the body a little further away from the tire. This is on an XT6 but they have THE SAME rear suspension as an other EA82.

Maybe. I'll try to remember to look at mine at home, but it'll be a busy night so I might not get to it.

It's always some part related to or around the big black box under the rear passengers side corner - look up behind the rear bumper and rear passengers side corner. There's a big box. The hoses, nipples, and solenoids are prone to rust and crack due to exposure to salt, snow, rain, dirt, getting hit by rocks, etc. Pull the box out and see what's cracked/broken or replace the solenoid. Here's a diagram of all the hoses and parts. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2002_Outback-Limited-Wagon/49249678__6025446/FUEL-PIPING/B12-420-05.html

Spacer doesn’t cause P0440…or any codes. It also doesn’t cause any monitor issues 96s are legally exempt from the monitors not populating because they never do. but most emissions techs don’t know I thought yours was an 01 ish but wanted to check The code will reset itself as soon as the issue is corrected, or after a few miles. some national chain stores will read the codes for free. Call and ask if the local ones to you do and if they can see the monitors so you can check before you go.

At least you have good hearing. I would have never heard it. haha. The valve are bent, unless you're really lucky. It's worth a try, because if you are lucky there's no damage at all. But more than likely it's bent. Cheapest option is two used heads, new subaru belt and pulleys. Aftermarket belts have higher failure rates. The pulleys cause the belt to fail too, it's asinine not to replace them. Particularly at high mileages.

I think DB is also in TN, so you'd be supporting local. They're pretty popular in subaru forums, probably still not OEM quality but they've been around quite a few years now and have good recommendations.

Sorry - you are correct if it's FWD trans. If so, then just leave it. There's other common Subaru transmissions at this time that are different and you can't do that. *** Maybe your axle is fine and what you thought was the axle was actually the wheel bearing? That's probably more likely than the bad CV damaging the bearing. If you're in a rust prone area the exposed stubs could get rusty - I'd try to cover them with an outer cup, copious grease, or some other protective measure. What kind of torch are you using? Heat soak it longer or get a dual fuel torch if you're just using single fuel like propane. Sometimes you want it to heat up quickly, not just heat up. A large CV joint and single fuel small torch I could see being an issue.

I don't know because I bought a bag years ago that are one length so I don't stack them, but they're longer than the typical packs of two. I would install one, then install 2 if that doesn't work. But it should work *IF the rest of the exhaust doesn't have leaks. What does "I cannot get the 02 ready to be ready" mean? Is the check engine light still on? Is the P0420 still on? Or are you talking about the monitors that need populated after a reset? It's not a 1996 vehicle or ECU right? I thought you were talking about 01-02 vehicle/engines. You've been here long enough you should be psychic by now, the Matrix must have a glitch. He started another topic recently and private messaged me, so I've been following a long a tiny bit.

Too bad. Seems like a low offer for Colorado market. $10k to fix but they'll repair it for less than $2k and sell it for $9k to someone else.

No, not "all". But yeah on a manual trans Brat, just put it in 4WD and remove both rear axles and you're golden, you can drive it indefinitely like that.

Agree. starter solenoid can strand you Subaru said today 05-07 solenoids are unavailable, and there’s 4 left in the US for 08-14. So that means 05-14 Out/Leg won’t have any solenoid repair or replacement option except buying an entire starter. The 05-07 looks like the same form and size as the 08-14 but I didn’t order one to try it. 05-07 PN: 23343aa210 08-14 PN: 23343aa230

Anyone familiar with these stamped/crimped starter solenoids? There's no way to disassemble them and replace the internal guts. Subaru doesn't carry them any more. The 09+ versions there's only 4 left in the country. What are people doing...just buying the entire starter? I'm half tempted to cut this one apart and see what's inside. The crimps are solid and seem really annoying to attempt to pry back and reinstall.

It's been awhile but worst case you remove the 3 diff hanger bolts, let it hang down and knock the pins out of the axles.I think I've removed them by just knocking the pins out and sliding them off but that might have been on a lifted one or different configuration. What do you mean "going out"? I'd mark both axles Left/Right, clean/regrease all the joints, then swap sides. Install the left axle on the right and right axle on the left. Alternately you can just regrease one axle or just swap them side to side. But that is a gob tons of miles! Is that on the original engine and original trans?

No this is not due to the compatibility of the two engines. You're fine to swap 00-03 EJ's engines and ECU's all day long without issue. To reply to your private message - no I don't know any shops in your city. Two very easy solutions: 1. Remove the REAR oxygen sensor, install a spacer, then reinstall the oxygen sensor: Here's the spacers: https://www.ebay.com/itm/402784625218?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D316d681a7a3b4c1885d614c9c25790d0%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D402784625218%26itm%3D402784625218%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460%26brand%3DDorman%2FHelp&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042 Typically drill out the center and you can double stack the two of them together, but I've installed them without drilling though I'm not sure it was the same part I linked here. I've just bought them and installed them but I bought a bag of them many many years ago and they might be a slightly different part. 2. I've seen other versions in the past, have never used one, not sure if it's overkill, but here's a slick attempt: https://www.fastwrx.com/products/oxygen-sensor-spacer-with-cat If you want to attack a repair of the current configuration: 1. There can be ZERO leaks - Check all manifold and flange mating surfaces for any leaks. 2. Are there any other codes? 3. Assuming the swap was done correctly this is absolutely not an engine compatibility issue. 4. For clarity you should remind us what year is the A. Engine B. Intake manifold wiring C. ECU 5. The installed converter is used or new aftermarket low grade which frequently still throw P0420 codes.

“a foot” sounds like a lot and the pulleys and idlers outer rollers can’t really go anywhere even when theyre bearings fail, so they dont typically have maximum slack unless they go through the timing cover. A plastic cam can shatter to pieces.

Change the oil filter. These codes pop up due to old or problematic oil filters. I’m guessing it’s never been changed? Is the oil pan dented? If the filter and pan are fine check the oil pressure with a gauge and see what you got.