idosubaru

Great. Strange, that one seems like the weak link. Pretty sure thats the one I’ve replaced around the drivers side nozzle too. Never seen leaks anywhere else on 2000+ Subarus.

And yes you want to match the sensors to the computer. Which I think is a 2001 2.2 Impreza. The computer is looking for sensors - so match that.

So it’s a 2001 Impreza with original wiring and computer and an unknown EJ25. Is that right? Did you install the 2.5 engine with intake manifold or installed the 2.2 manifold onto the 2.5 engine? Do you still have the 2.2 engine for parts? Did you check if the 2.5 timing marks are aligned properly? Okay now to an “answer”. 1. clear the codes and see which comes back first. 2. Ignore the 0733 gear ratio or whatever it is for now. Tackle that last, it may just be an artifact of the others. 3. those knock sensors fail all the time. Use a 2001 2.2 knock sensor because that’s what computer the car has (or I’m assuming it has you need to answer my question above). You can pull it and look at the bottom - sometimes they’ll have hair line cracks in them. But they can be bad and not show cracks too. Most common sensor to fail by a mile 4. crank sensor. Two possibilities: A. Timing marks are off - hence the earlier question. B. There are two sets of crank and drivers side cam gears, one for auto and one for manual. They are interchangeable they just have different trigger mark counts on the back, otherwise they’re the same. Manual transmissions have one set and automatics have another set. So you could have installed a EJ25 from a manual trans into an automatic vehicle or an EJ25 from an auto into a manual trans. It happens even if you swap 2.2 to 2.2 or 2.5 to 2.5. But it’s an easy fix. Just swap the 2.2 drivers side cam and the crank sprockets onto the 2.5 and you’re done. Like I said - they’re interchangeable

Ha. Now you’re talking. people do it for other engines without issues but I’ve never heard of it for Subarus. But I’d be open to it if I got a sense the end surface area and hardening wouldn’t be compromised.

Hahahhaa. “Hi my name is Gary. I’m a USMB frequent poster” Ive seen the plastic angle hose connectors deteriorate. They get very brittle and crack and flake into dust. Disconnect the hoses and the may just fall to pieces or the barb end will stay inside the hose, etc I have a 2014 For parts car if you break the cowel or need any hoses connector or nozzle.

This isn’t the one I used but here’s an example: http://www.submariner.org/thepno95/TWE Compression Calculator ver6 - 2017.xlsx The two blocks you’re using are so common I’m sure someone knows in turbo world.

Okay yeah there’s a couple different bucket and shim styles. I haven’t done the buckets just shim over buckets. Although I’d be tempted to find a an easy way with bucket too. I think They’re always too tight not too loose and the buckets/shim height need shortened to create some slack. Don’t know. There was a Subaru EJ CR calculator out there years ago I used in excel format to determine various specs. Maybe try to find that so you have real numbers? Calling GD GeneralDisorder. He would likely be the best to answer the turbo techy stuff.

Sure do that and keep checking with micrometer. Given the way they operate, it’s not going to matter. I have glass for head resurfacing, but don’t bother for shims. I hit them with an air grinder and check with micrometer. it’s not a flywheel, head or block. Not worried about it.

There's a few configurations, these can be tricky to figure out. What part number is the current belt? You can wrap something around the pullleys - like a rope or shoe string to measure and get an approximate length and then any auto parts store can get you that length, in however many ribs you need. All belts have easily determined lengths based on part numbers. Make sure you take that measurement, wrap the string around the pulleys, when the tension is adjusted very very loose so that you can tighten it. Getting that measurement is a little tricky though - just wrapping and measuring can be a little off due to stretch, grooves, where the tension is set, etc. So try to install it in the parking lot if possible so you can quickly try another. .

Those are shim over bucket? I grind the bucket facing side down to make the shim thicker as needed. They're always too tight and need thinner shims so grinding works. I grind the side not touching the cam. But yeah, PITA and I will probably avoid it for the rest of my life if possible. lol Ah - i see, you didn't have to split the case last time. Got it. Good luck cranking it out.

That was you that bearing slapped an EJ?! Haha, that's fantastic. Which year EJ was it?

Resurface the heads yourself. Rering doesn't require a shop and don't touch Subaru bores. This can be done without a shop. If you do get a shop have them knurl the pistons to prevent piston slap while they're out.

i would either bearing slap it or replace the engine. I wouldn't get into any additional work at all, except re-ring it while it's apart. hope you got it before extensive damage and avoid getting sucked into a rabbit hole. someone else bearing slapped an EJ years ago on here and said it ran fine. one whole example, and wasn't a turbo, wow! but it was interesting to see them try it and succeed.

The auto and manual transmissions are entirely different, definitely not swapping any parts between those. Much simple to swap an entire legacy engine/transmission together. Rear differential needs to match the legacy transmission final drive ratio. If the XT6 was an automatic then the rear diff is a 3.7 final drive ratio. If it was a manual it's 3.9. Legacy I'm unsure - it changes over the years/models/engines. But based on what you're saying the legacy you're referencing will be a 3.9. In which case you'd need a manual trans rear XT6 diff or swap in a legacy diff.

Don't know. The O2 isn't used by any other system in those older vehiclse (like the AT, there's no dynamic control, cluster, etc) and the rear O2 isn't used for fuel trims until 2005 so that should be really simple. It just gets scrubbed to see if the CEL needs triggered. so that should be a simple input, no cross wiring necessary. Of course you'd want it properly powered/grounded/relay/fuse protected and powered at the proper time however Subaru does it. But it shouldn't need to be shared with any other wiring. I'd expect the front to be the same in a 2001 as well - it's a fairly simple O2 and ECU so you should be able to just give it power/ground and pin the input signal to whichever ECU pin needs that signal. But I'm just guessing and dislike messing with ECU's/wiring diagrams despite repinning a 2012 Outback connector right now and being a Flight Software Engineer lmao. Keep in mind - just in case the wiring turns out to be more complex then initially assumed - I'd still install an EJ25 ECU and oxygen sensor and avoid the wiring. ECU's are available for $25.

Was that the Extra S fluid? I think that’s supposed to be very good fluid but a little pricey.

Don’t think so. I mocked one up. The tie rod lengths are whack and mess with steering and the input shaft angle is wrong. I think GLoyale (I forget his exact new user name Fer…something) talked about this tie rod issue and using EA81 tie rods on EJ racks…I think. Also, my bigger issue was it will not pass through the cross member without cutting into the cross member or some other significant adaption to avoid the different offset angles of the input. One could get a picture of them side by side probably to see that difference.

Bad headgasket. JDM or replace the gaskets. Use an OEM radiator cap only If you’re lucky bleed all the air. Burp it good. Nose up while filling.

Loosen and readjust the belt shroud to get pressure off the power steering hose.

Be careful with years and models. For the 99-01 Impreza 2.2 FSM (a 99 legacy 2.2 should be same), You don’t want a 2.5 or turbo. Which aren’t common in those years but turbos get a lot of online attention. For 00-04 FSM you don’t want turbo wiring.

Don’t know how they all are but I’ve downloaded a few from these links in the past. Should be able to just put the ECU wiring side by side and compare to start. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU 2002 ECU pin outs: https://www.xcceleration.com/pinouts.htm

Get an FSM from each of those and compare. I guess start with the ECU and see what’s different. Maybe it’s just the O2 wiring and not the engine. What you see there will tell you if you need to go to the engine harness or oxygen sensor or not. Might get away with just pinning the Oxygen sensor to how the ECU wants it and be done.

There's isn't a great central source since it varies so much by model/year, I just try to find them linked that doesn't look too suspicious. I've probably downloaded 20-30 off the internet and never had an issue.

It's worth looking at the harness diagrams if you don't mind repinning, it just sounds like it could be a rabbit hold if the main engine harness, ECU connector, and oxygen sensor connectors all need repinned. It's worth a look to see, it might just need to be the main engine harness only, or not many pins. Many people don't and sometimes a known solution is better than digging through harnesses towards an unknown end. You'll need an FSM which can be gotten online (or pinouts for the necessary connectors - main engine harnesss, ECU, O2 connector) for a Phase II EJ22 and Phase II EJ25. I used to have those digital FSM's but can't find them. Here's the engines that are all the same if you're looking for pinouts/diagrams online: Phase II EJ22: 1999-2001 Impreza or 1999 Legacy EJ22 Phase II EJ25: Should be any 2000-2004 Legacy, Forester, Outback, Baja, Impreza, all of those engines are plug and play compatible. Or do some combination of visual comparison between both physical connectors and narrowing it down.

Nah. I never said change the engine. Where did you read me say to remove the EJ22 engine? I didn’t. Bolt the EJ25 intake manifold onto the EJ22. Leave the EJ22 the original EJ25 ECU will run it just fine “Reinstall the original EJ25 ECU and EJ25 intake manifold and EJ25 oxygen sensor.”