idosubaru

Sorry - you are correct if it's FWD trans. If so, then just leave it. There's other common Subaru transmissions at this time that are different and you can't do that. *** Maybe your axle is fine and what you thought was the axle was actually the wheel bearing? That's probably more likely than the bad CV damaging the bearing. If you're in a rust prone area the exposed stubs could get rusty - I'd try to cover them with an outer cup, copious grease, or some other protective measure. What kind of torch are you using? Heat soak it longer or get a dual fuel torch if you're just using single fuel like propane. Sometimes you want it to heat up quickly, not just heat up. A large CV joint and single fuel small torch I could see being an issue.

I don't know because I bought a bag years ago that are one length so I don't stack them, but they're longer than the typical packs of two. I would install one, then install 2 if that doesn't work. But it should work *IF the rest of the exhaust doesn't have leaks. What does "I cannot get the 02 ready to be ready" mean? Is the check engine light still on? Is the P0420 still on? Or are you talking about the monitors that need populated after a reset? It's not a 1996 vehicle or ECU right? I thought you were talking about 01-02 vehicle/engines. You've been here long enough you should be psychic by now, the Matrix must have a glitch. He started another topic recently and private messaged me, so I've been following a long a tiny bit.

Too bad. Seems like a low offer for Colorado market. $10k to fix but they'll repair it for less than $2k and sell it for $9k to someone else.

No, not "all". But yeah on a manual trans Brat, just put it in 4WD and remove both rear axles and you're golden, you can drive it indefinitely like that.

Agree. starter solenoid can strand you Subaru said today 05-07 solenoids are unavailable, and there’s 4 left in the US for 08-14. So that means 05-14 Out/Leg won’t have any solenoid repair or replacement option except buying an entire starter. The 05-07 looks like the same form and size as the 08-14 but I didn’t order one to try it. 05-07 PN: 23343aa210 08-14 PN: 23343aa230

Anyone familiar with these stamped/crimped starter solenoids? There's no way to disassemble them and replace the internal guts. Subaru doesn't carry them any more. The 09+ versions there's only 4 left in the country. What are people doing...just buying the entire starter? I'm half tempted to cut this one apart and see what's inside. The crimps are solid and seem really annoying to attempt to pry back and reinstall.

It's been awhile but worst case you remove the 3 diff hanger bolts, let it hang down and knock the pins out of the axles.I think I've removed them by just knocking the pins out and sliding them off but that might have been on a lifted one or different configuration. What do you mean "going out"? I'd mark both axles Left/Right, clean/regrease all the joints, then swap sides. Install the left axle on the right and right axle on the left. Alternately you can just regrease one axle or just swap them side to side. But that is a gob tons of miles! Is that on the original engine and original trans?

No this is not due to the compatibility of the two engines. You're fine to swap 00-03 EJ's engines and ECU's all day long without issue. To reply to your private message - no I don't know any shops in your city. Two very easy solutions: 1. Remove the REAR oxygen sensor, install a spacer, then reinstall the oxygen sensor: Here's the spacers: https://www.ebay.com/itm/402784625218?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D316d681a7a3b4c1885d614c9c25790d0%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D402784625218%26itm%3D402784625218%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460%26brand%3DDorman%2FHelp&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042 Typically drill out the center and you can double stack the two of them together, but I've installed them without drilling though I'm not sure it was the same part I linked here. I've just bought them and installed them but I bought a bag of them many many years ago and they might be a slightly different part. 2. I've seen other versions in the past, have never used one, not sure if it's overkill, but here's a slick attempt: https://www.fastwrx.com/products/oxygen-sensor-spacer-with-cat If you want to attack a repair of the current configuration: 1. There can be ZERO leaks - Check all manifold and flange mating surfaces for any leaks. 2. Are there any other codes? 3. Assuming the swap was done correctly this is absolutely not an engine compatibility issue. 4. For clarity you should remind us what year is the A. Engine B. Intake manifold wiring C. ECU 5. The installed converter is used or new aftermarket low grade which frequently still throw P0420 codes.

“a foot” sounds like a lot and the pulleys and idlers outer rollers can’t really go anywhere even when theyre bearings fail, so they dont typically have maximum slack unless they go through the timing cover. A plastic cam can shatter to pieces.

Change the oil filter. These codes pop up due to old or problematic oil filters. I’m guessing it’s never been changed? Is the oil pan dented? If the filter and pan are fine check the oil pressure with a gauge and see what you got.

Great. Strange, that one seems like the weak link. Pretty sure thats the one I’ve replaced around the drivers side nozzle too. Never seen leaks anywhere else on 2000+ Subarus.

And yes you want to match the sensors to the computer. Which I think is a 2001 2.2 Impreza. The computer is looking for sensors - so match that.

So it’s a 2001 Impreza with original wiring and computer and an unknown EJ25. Is that right? Did you install the 2.5 engine with intake manifold or installed the 2.2 manifold onto the 2.5 engine? Do you still have the 2.2 engine for parts? Did you check if the 2.5 timing marks are aligned properly? Okay now to an “answer”. 1. clear the codes and see which comes back first. 2. Ignore the 0733 gear ratio or whatever it is for now. Tackle that last, it may just be an artifact of the others. 3. those knock sensors fail all the time. Use a 2001 2.2 knock sensor because that’s what computer the car has (or I’m assuming it has you need to answer my question above). You can pull it and look at the bottom - sometimes they’ll have hair line cracks in them. But they can be bad and not show cracks too. Most common sensor to fail by a mile 4. crank sensor. Two possibilities: A. Timing marks are off - hence the earlier question. B. There are two sets of crank and drivers side cam gears, one for auto and one for manual. They are interchangeable they just have different trigger mark counts on the back, otherwise they’re the same. Manual transmissions have one set and automatics have another set. So you could have installed a EJ25 from a manual trans into an automatic vehicle or an EJ25 from an auto into a manual trans. It happens even if you swap 2.2 to 2.2 or 2.5 to 2.5. But it’s an easy fix. Just swap the 2.2 drivers side cam and the crank sprockets onto the 2.5 and you’re done. Like I said - they’re interchangeable

Ha. Now you’re talking. people do it for other engines without issues but I’ve never heard of it for Subarus. But I’d be open to it if I got a sense the end surface area and hardening wouldn’t be compromised.

Hahahhaa. “Hi my name is Gary. I’m a USMB frequent poster” Ive seen the plastic angle hose connectors deteriorate. They get very brittle and crack and flake into dust. Disconnect the hoses and the may just fall to pieces or the barb end will stay inside the hose, etc I have a 2014 For parts car if you break the cowel or need any hoses connector or nozzle.

This isn’t the one I used but here’s an example: http://www.submariner.org/thepno95/TWE Compression Calculator ver6 - 2017.xlsx The two blocks you’re using are so common I’m sure someone knows in turbo world.

Okay yeah there’s a couple different bucket and shim styles. I haven’t done the buckets just shim over buckets. Although I’d be tempted to find a an easy way with bucket too. I think They’re always too tight not too loose and the buckets/shim height need shortened to create some slack. Don’t know. There was a Subaru EJ CR calculator out there years ago I used in excel format to determine various specs. Maybe try to find that so you have real numbers? Calling GD GeneralDisorder. He would likely be the best to answer the turbo techy stuff.

Sure do that and keep checking with micrometer. Given the way they operate, it’s not going to matter. I have glass for head resurfacing, but don’t bother for shims. I hit them with an air grinder and check with micrometer. it’s not a flywheel, head or block. Not worried about it.

There's a few configurations, these can be tricky to figure out. What part number is the current belt? You can wrap something around the pullleys - like a rope or shoe string to measure and get an approximate length and then any auto parts store can get you that length, in however many ribs you need. All belts have easily determined lengths based on part numbers. Make sure you take that measurement, wrap the string around the pulleys, when the tension is adjusted very very loose so that you can tighten it. Getting that measurement is a little tricky though - just wrapping and measuring can be a little off due to stretch, grooves, where the tension is set, etc. So try to install it in the parking lot if possible so you can quickly try another. .

Those are shim over bucket? I grind the bucket facing side down to make the shim thicker as needed. They're always too tight and need thinner shims so grinding works. I grind the side not touching the cam. But yeah, PITA and I will probably avoid it for the rest of my life if possible. lol Ah - i see, you didn't have to split the case last time. Got it. Good luck cranking it out.

That was you that bearing slapped an EJ?! Haha, that's fantastic. Which year EJ was it?

Resurface the heads yourself. Rering doesn't require a shop and don't touch Subaru bores. This can be done without a shop. If you do get a shop have them knurl the pistons to prevent piston slap while they're out.

i would either bearing slap it or replace the engine. I wouldn't get into any additional work at all, except re-ring it while it's apart. hope you got it before extensive damage and avoid getting sucked into a rabbit hole. someone else bearing slapped an EJ years ago on here and said it ran fine. one whole example, and wasn't a turbo, wow! but it was interesting to see them try it and succeed.

The auto and manual transmissions are entirely different, definitely not swapping any parts between those. Much simple to swap an entire legacy engine/transmission together. Rear differential needs to match the legacy transmission final drive ratio. If the XT6 was an automatic then the rear diff is a 3.7 final drive ratio. If it was a manual it's 3.9. Legacy I'm unsure - it changes over the years/models/engines. But based on what you're saying the legacy you're referencing will be a 3.9. In which case you'd need a manual trans rear XT6 diff or swap in a legacy diff.

Don't know. The O2 isn't used by any other system in those older vehiclse (like the AT, there's no dynamic control, cluster, etc) and the rear O2 isn't used for fuel trims until 2005 so that should be really simple. It just gets scrubbed to see if the CEL needs triggered. so that should be a simple input, no cross wiring necessary. Of course you'd want it properly powered/grounded/relay/fuse protected and powered at the proper time however Subaru does it. But it shouldn't need to be shared with any other wiring. I'd expect the front to be the same in a 2001 as well - it's a fairly simple O2 and ECU so you should be able to just give it power/ground and pin the input signal to whichever ECU pin needs that signal. But I'm just guessing and dislike messing with ECU's/wiring diagrams despite repinning a 2012 Outback connector right now and being a Flight Software Engineer lmao. Keep in mind - just in case the wiring turns out to be more complex then initially assumed - I'd still install an EJ25 ECU and oxygen sensor and avoid the wiring. ECU's are available for $25.