idosubaru

They're rather tame, I don't think there's any major concerns. EZ engines i don't think have that happen to any greater extent than average. I'm sure you've seen it but there's a TSB for it.

Maybe it got the “turn the radio up the car is making a noise again” fix. The timing sprockets were also gouged and loose?

I’ve got a leaky windshield and would like it reinstalled on my XT6 Any tips on saving existing trim/clips? How much problem do you guys have with trim and clips breaking during removal?

Here's an EA82, ER27 (XT6) solenoid. OEM looks the same with the crimped casing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224219322935?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3Da63accd2079a4c188a89dfcb86847b4d%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D224219322935%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3A2782821b18c0a8d8e9dc1a51fffee416|pageci%3A6d8c20d9-9099-11ee-9a94-5a1bd6dadb96|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage The Ebay solenoids I've bought for tractors are similarly priced and cheaply made (shocker!). Rebuild OEM is preferred but there may not be an option except $150 for a new one which is part number 23343AA090. Interesting how some Subaru models are rebuildable or parts aren't carried and other models have all the bendix gears, tabs, levers, etc. https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/p/Subaru_1996_Impreza/Starter-Solenoid/49233322/23343AA090.html This shows same 90's impreza/outbacks being the same solenoid so I may scour some pull it yourself yards close to my christmas holiday travels if I can sneak away and the weather isn't nasty.

But the solenoid doesn’t have any bolts or screws, this one is crimped and pressed together. It doesn’t look like it can be disassembled.

I took the solenoid out expecting to rebuild it with new contacts like all the 90-2004 Subarus. XT6, they’re the same as any EA82. So EA82 solenoid contacts can’t be replaced?

Looks awkward but simple, seats are cumbersome to maneuver in and out of the cabin but otherwise it’s not too bad. The seat rail ends/bolt down tabs want to stick out and catch paint if you’re no careful. Hopefully you’re not knocking that out with a foot of incoming snow. yours are probably fine I don’t see this too often, but it’s annoying if it does and you have more rust up there than me so just in case:I’ve had a few that the seat bolts are rusted and have had seat bolt threads strip before. If they feel tight - work them back and forth to slowly break the rust up. If it’s really tight take a break once the bolt turns two or so times. The tighter it is the less turns per break. Go work on something else and let the metal cool down. The threads strip and bolts sheer largely due to heat build up. Heat increases plastic deformation of metals and it also causes things to expand - making the problem worse. Heat will strip a bolt well before the use actually will. let it cool. Spraying lubricant is a lubricant and helps conduct heat away from the point of friction too.

How long and badly the system is as open makes a difference. If I swap a caliper real quick I can bleed quick. If I have the system open for a long time and lots of fluid comes out and MC replaced it can take waaay longer than expected. I wouldn’t be surprised at all if you keep bleeding and eventually get it all out. or you could have an issue. Check for rust or wetness above gas tank where lines run and fluid loss past caliper piston seal under the boot.

Ive used up to almost 96 ounces (3 big bottles) to bleed an open system. It Can take forever. Like 10 or 20 pumps per corner the piston seals can leak and are covered by the piston bolts so you can’t see if they’re leaking. if there’s rusty lines thr rust can have thick layers of rust but no holes, and the fluid just seeps through and wets the rust rather than drips until a lot of fluid is lost. Usually above thr gas tank where you can’t see it.

Have you had an alingment anytime recently, including in the back. There are alignment bolts on the rear control arms of EA82's. Check all bushings and linkages without load. Jack the car up and pry on/around every bushing to see if any are loose. Random guessing here but I'm still not 10)% on the springs. The rear springs are clocked to the strut mounts, so I think it *should* work like you say, but I'd be hesitant enough to confirm without a doubt particularly with such a distinctive issue. This isn't minor.

smaller rims seems simplest, otherwise might be crossing fingers hoping they clear. Id guess on my cars, but be sure on my wife’s!

Where’s the least clearance? Strut, inner fender well or fender? I’m sure you know this but I’ll vote you anyway. Sometimes you can buy some clearance by getting a tire a little skinnier if clearance issues will be the inner fender/strut example with made up numbers: If you have to choose between two same height sizes and one is .2” wider and the other is .3” skinnier - get the skinnier one. No newer Imprezas or comment on specific size. But low profile I’ve had numerous side wall bubbles as well driving a few miles of mountain dirt gravel mountain roads every day. What seems to happen here is mid range well priced tires don’t do well with side wall bubbles. General Altimax RT43 are a good example. Excellent tire for its price point but very prone to bubbles. I’d run them anywhere but areas seeing sidewall issues. Higher end/more expensive tires seem to resist side wall bubbles. I wonder if low cost tires have, on average, less forgiving side walls.

I’d check the wiring to the sensor if the car sat. Do a continuity and ohm check. I’ve seen rodent damaged wires multiple times. If the transmission was swapped it would easily have gotten the more easily found 3.9 gear ratio when it needs a 4.11. And they’ll throw a speed sensor code when that happens. The 2003 trans harness are all the same for 4 and 6 and VDC. See here: https://www.pnwsubaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-vehicle-speed-sensor-24030aa041?origin=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9qKC7NvbggMVrVRHAR15nQW5EAQYAiABEgKnHvD_BwE The 2004 is a bit of an oddball. 01-04 all VDC outbacks are identical except very minor changes. The trans are interchangeable except for the 03 or 04 changes in the rear solenoid operation. They changed whether open or close is the operational response to +12volt. Not sure if that change was in the workforce or TCU or at the solenoid. But when I say oddball it’s very minor people have swapped 2001 and 2004 trans before and I think the jdm options work in all 01-04s as well.

This is showing 3, I wasn't expecting that, but here's where the gizmo's are: https://www.subarupartsforyou.com/oem-parts/subaru-speed-sensor-and-harness-vin-required-24030aa041 If you found a bad one I'd imagine you'd just splice the bad one rather than wrestle that entire wiring harness.

1st question is to make sure this wasn't a recent trans swap or other major work that caused this to pop up? The rear transmission speed sensor is external and replaceable at the rear of the trans. It just bolts on. I'm thinking there isn't another one back there it can be confused with. Ideally you test the rear sensor using the FSM diagnostics and see if the sensor is bad or not.

To further follow up on this - it works fine. When reassembling the knuckle/axle - the axle is at a such steep angle, the shaft is hitting the edge of the cup and won't push into the cup any further. So you can't rotate the knuckle to fully seat in the strut. At least not with mine - I'm using Outback struts/springs and EJ knuckles so it's lifted at least 2". Jacking the control arm to compress the strut levels the axle enough for it to slide further into the cup and then with considerable effort the knuckle will rotated fully into the strut. It's really tight but it's what I'm currently running.

Thanks. Never done that before, think my XT6 rear defrost might be weak. XT6 got the low miles, rust free impreza/EJ hubs you sent me years ago.

GL hatch or XT6 all the way.

This guy knows. They are long doors. Electric window hardware for more weight get. ilk check again.

If I manually lift up on the door or look for play, I don't see anything out of the ordinary. No play, no noises, no obvious wear points. But both of my XT6 doors seem to "sag" - they are harder to close and open than they should be, like they're not hitting the striker square. There's no rust. Which is more common: a hinge issue, striker issue, or inside the door mechanism issue?

Leak down test is a far better test in this case.

Interesting, they have a good name, still recommend them to folks in town, city, or flatter areas, and am not saying they aren't good tires, so I'm not surprised. It's almost 100% the back mountain roads I notice it on. I'll test them every year on the back snow covered roads. I have 2 miles of unmaintained commuting roads and 2 more miles of poorly maintained. i don't notice it on the main roads and around town. Myself and others noticed they weren't as good at 5 years as year 1. Studs would be ideal. Except my daily commute at it's worst is way worse than average in spite of not getting enough total average snow to warrant the noise.

Okay so your were just guessing? Read all the codes check connectors removed during removal Prob bent valves. Hopefully you’re lucky and it’s the tensioner. Removing and compressing it for reinstall can compromise them. The bent valve EJs I’ve repaired myself, it can be hard to tell if the valves are bent. Best to just replace them all than get fooled and leave a bent one there. They don’t always bend in a visually obvious way. It is interesting if it’s true you’re saying you have good compression. The valve guide could be damaged or the valve is hanging in the guide, causing good compression but not fully opening.

How did you change your mind so quickly? The timing tensioner can fail. They’ll start moving around/bouncing vigorously during driving or cold start. If you take the cover off and watch it you’ll see it. If it’s aftermarket or was compressed too quickly during reinstallation, that may have been its demise. Pull the drivers side cover and watch it at start up and when giving it throttle.

Same bolt pattern. Bolt pattern changes in 2015. If they clear the rotors they’ll fit. Im unsure on that. Also steel rims have less clearance and 6 cylinder rotors are larger. If it’s a 6 cylinder 2010 Outback and steel forester rims I don’t think those will clear. Unless your snow driving is very easy like the flat land of the mid west or you’re getting studded tires, I’d avoid used winter tires unless the tires are Nokian or Michellin X ice. Every other brands performance decreases substantially after like 2 years. Even the highly touted Bridgestone blizzacs. They are great when new, by year three they perform worse in the snow. Not terrible but definitely worse. I assume they use less chemical protectants in the manufacturing process and they degrade faster. Something I’ve also seen with all seasons. Granted I haven’t tried every winter tire but I’ve seen quite a few and make the deduction this is a case where you get what you pay for. I’ve seen 7 year old Michellin X Ice look nearly brand new when other brands show their age. Huge difference. It’s not minor and not opinion. I wouldn’t want to buy a used winter tire that has unknown amounts of sun and air exposure. UV and oxygen are the key oxidants that degrade the tire materials. Manufacturers use a ton of chemicals to protect them. That’s the chief area tire manufacturers use to cut costs. Prob the same chemicals making fish sterile on the west coast when it washes into the rivers. Gross!