idosubaru

don't use jb weld for this application, i've seen it tried on block repairs and it sucks for those. it's fine for easy stuff but all the heat, vibration, etc here, i wouldn't use it if it's as bad as your description sounds. i'm with previous poster...post a pic and see what it looks like.

hmmm, really? what makes you say that? hard for me to see that since i've seen blown blocks with oil coolers....but of course previous overheats, etc who knows, it's so dynamic.

get a brand new one? a very general rule is avoid the 98 model. those have the DOHC EJ25's which are more problematic. but that also means those are the easiest ones to find with a blown engine, so maybe that's a good fit if you want a swap. other than that not much difference - they all come with the same motors/trans EJ25's - Phase I in 98 and Phase II after.

why not use an EJ25 block? like GD and I, i'm sure you got some lying around as you type so you had to already have thought about it....

have you considered swapping in another rear crossmember?

this thread has a slightly better exploded diagram actually showing the ring: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80574 click on the link in that thread for the PDF

just looked at your link - yes on that larger diameter tube that's going to be the ring seal i mentioned above and it's supposed to be split. sounds like you could just reuse it or get it from the dealer - again they call it a Ring Seal, that should help them identify it.

they don't leak often but a good idea to replace. clean well, install properly. that is called a "Ring Seal" and it's supposed to be split like you describe. i've seen them twisted and out of shape before and then they need replaced. it's a very hard graphite type material right, not like and oring? then yes - that's the Ring Seal. i've ordered them from Subaru before but generally I've only ever seen one or two in bad shape.

definitely going to need to post pictures. i would think you can work something out...but mostly just because i can't picture in my head what the water pump did to the block. i've done some block repairs before but it's always been to a timing pulley bolt coming out and taking a chunk of the block with it.

funds are tight - then simply fix it as cheap as possible, you can essentially get away with just replacing the pads. get them from rockauto.com for $8 or $15 and you got a cheap fix. clean all of those clips - get a file, sand paper, scotch bright pads, etc and clean them up. install new pads and call it a day. if the rotors are bad then they'll simply wear the pads quicker, not a big deal at all if funds are tight. you could *almost* argue that the brakes would work more efficiently with the roughness and added bite of the rough rotors...LOL. i'm sort of kidding, but the point is it's not going to cause any issues. i've seen people run with horrific rotors before, metal shavings and all...I don't recommend it but hey if funds are tight it's really not going to matter except to wear your pads out quicker. if funds are tight, buying another car is really not a good option...fix this cheap and save your money and make good decisions from here on out such that you're not in this same position later. ask for used pads, folks have calipers and pads and parts cars lying around. could get some used pads for cheap. rockauto often has pads for DIRT cheap, check there.

if yours has the delayed engagement issue typical of 99's, there's an easy remedy for that. Auto Trans X.

thanks again. friend of mine does a lot of body work and repairs wrecked cars and thinks a portopower is going to be able to get that really close and back to useable.

right on, i do that all the time. i'd much rather have a box at my door than drive and wait in line at a junk yard. didn't think places would do the rears, but hey defintely worth some calls. thanks. i'm going to give an hour or two into pulling it just to see where it ends up, i don't care what it looks like.

Your Duty C solenoid is failing, so it "can't" go into FWD mode. Fluid might have helped some because after awhile the clutches were also starting to bind - so the fluid helped free up some clutches but the solenoid is still hosed. Needs a new Duty C solenoid.

the 97 Impreza will plug and play and bolt in and work just fine. You'll have two things to check into, read carefully i'm going to detail it all for you: *** simply put - if the 97 has EGR and you get the exhaust manifold then it's identical swap to the 95 automatic EJ22. details: 1. you need the exhaust manifold with it. they are identical in every way and interchange easily (TWO BOLTS, that's it). it bolts right up - but the EJ22 heads are single port exhaust and EJ25 are dual port exhaust. in 1995 they are dual port exhausts so it just bolts up to the EJ25 exhaust no problem. get the exhaust manifold with it and you're golden. 2. you need an engine that has an EGR valve on it as all EJ25's have EGR. not all EJ22's have EGR - but all 95 EJ22's did have EGR so that makes that an easy fit. i have not seen any rhyme or reason as to which engines have EGR - particularly with imprezas - i've seen 97's have EGR and some not have EGR and auto/manual doesn't matter in 97 imprezas anyway.....so you simply have to ask if it has an EGR valve on the back. that being said - everything still works, plugs up, and runs perfect regarldess of if it has EGR or not, it will just give you a check engine light that you can't get rid of if you get one without EGR. i intentionally installed a non-EGR set up in my vehicle so it has less parts to deal with, but i have a check engine light. doesn't matter where i live, they don't inspect that or check emissions here.

odd indeed. you could have it removed and see if the mileage goes back up. no one will have seen this before because the cooler can't affect gas mileage. if it was a large enough load on the hydraulic system to cause gas consumption to decrease (by 15%!) then it would also likely be damaging to the transmission - all of that "work" has to go somewhere - creating heat and stresses on the transmission...of course this is all silly and unrealistic because it's not happening - the transmission damage or loss of mileage due to the cooler. you could have the brakes inspected - dragging pads (various causes of that) can cause a sudden drop in mileage with no other immediate symptoms. maybe they spilled transmission fluid on the brake caliper slide pins, washing the grease out, cause the caliper to seize on the guide pins....just kidding.....

yeah the key isn't needed at all. i've repaired a bunch but just cleaning them up and bolting the SNOT out of the crank pulley bolt so it doesn't come off. they come off because they weren't isntalled tight enough. i use a 3 foot pipe over my socket handle, never have one come off.

how do i find a rear quarter? yards around here won't let me cut and won't cut them out for you....?

i think i'll shoot for that if i can find one, i don't have any parts cars available. ROFL! i don't need it to look good but i don't want it to "stand out" either!! inconspicuous i guess is the goal. copy, you're right and i need to shoot for replacement as the goal if i can find one. actually i'm okay with the front, don't need any help there. i've repaired quite a few wrecked Subaru's (all frontal wrecks). if you see the pictures in the linked thread you can see the hood and fender are a different shade of Taupe Metallic (Subarus name for this doo-doo brown ). it was wrecked before and i repaired it. i've found the frontal repairs quite easy actually.

My brown beater was wrecked last week and I'd like to get it back on the road. Front is easy, I'm concerned with the rear, I've never really repaired a rear quarter panel, nothing near this bad. Is pulling/pushing that even an option? Picture of the rear damage here: http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=12761&p=143057#p143057 I realize most would say cut/weld in new metal...that sounds like a ton of work and not sure where I would find one to cut. Got rid of my parts car.

should not be cooler related. wait and see over a few tanks, maybe it was just gas related? summer gas blends differ from winter...but i'm not sure which is better/worse?

why not simply reattach your old pulley you found on the ground with the bolt? driving without the pulley in place sounds like a really bad idea. the alternator won't be charging and you won't be able to drive very long. highly doubt you'll make it 50 miles after traveling that far with it not working. if you do attempt it: 1. have the battery charged first (local parts store or someone with jumper cables). 2. don't use anything electrical at all. 3. i would simply pull the fuses for the dash, stereo, etc so it's not using any power. pull every fuse possible that's not needed for the car to run and no you don't need the dash/instrument panel to drive.

i ordered a couple off ebay last year and they were in pretty poor shape, i think i got one good one out of 4...they were VERY warn (no writing left) or very loose because the screws/plastic or whatever holds the two halves together were broken. i'd make sure particularly that yours isn't like that, it seems common. they come up for sale ocassionally - seen a few on here in the months following the ones i bought.

Yes, you're on the right path now. 1. just cut/grind/drill the bent part out of the way - the first few millimeters probably. then it'll all come off. 2. or just leave it in place and make it flush so the crank pulley bolts back in place properly. tighten it really good and it's not going anywhere. i've done it countless times - i never use a torque wrench - i just get a socket on there and y 3 foot pipe and give it some good stank, so whatever that works out too! sounds to me you need to skip all the other talk and just tighten it down as i've suggested - sounds like i'd have it "fixed" in about 4 minutes.

you probably need the rectangular ones then? those are probably the hardest to find in good shape, kind of annoying to find sometimes. i think i have one or two of those but they're used and not in great condition.