idosubaru

just wanted you to know i was originally asking a bizarre question. it's easy to tow on a tow dolly - just follow directions from folks that have done it, as i posted in the last reply. good news - very easy! and you're in florida so you probably don't even have rust to worry about - but just in case make sure you have a 12 mm SIX point wrench. there isn't enough room to get a socket wrench behind the rear diff flange to get a straight on shot of the 12mm nut. have a 12mm 6 point wrench on hand. closed end - don't use an open end lest you strip the bolt - they can take some grunt after years of exposure to the elements. once the car is loaded on the trailer you'll probably still need a jack to get the rear wheel off the ground to have room to crawl under there.

no, all wrong - this is the wrong thread for you to be reading - i was asking a bizarre question about towing with the FRONT wheels on the ground, the opposite of what you're "supposed" to do with a dolly where the front wheels are up on the dolly. you want to tow it normal - front wheels on the dolly (not rear wheels on the dolly and "backwards" like i was asking in this thread - which i ended up not doing)? load it on the dolly. then remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the rear driveshaft to the rear differential and then it's fine to tow on the dolly. another option i've done before, if the car runs and is an automatic with 4EAT transmission you can install the FWD fuse with the vehicle running and tow it on a dolly without doing anything. 180 miles is longish but if it's a perfectly running car with no issues (like no worries that it's going to overheat, run out of oil, etc), I've done it before.

i just made a trip so i don't have much now, one engine block and maybe some odds and ends, i can bring them possible. close to your house? i think alum was 35 cents a pound, they don't pay well down here, only $7 per 100 for scrap & whole cars. Pburgh must have better prices. i have a large roll of 1"copper pipe or something, if i can't sell it locally, ebay, or craigslist maybe. maybe i'll bring it and see what it's worth.

those are all really easy and cheap fixes, some might not even need to be addressed. WOW though - that is a lot of codes, like that thing was just worked over like crazy and completely ignored and abused for a while to get all those codes or something extensive happened that caused them all at once? have the codes cleared and see which ones come back first. that's generally the best place to start with a long list like this. what you're describing sounds basically like where the PCV valve is - it's the only large threaded object that threads in just to the passengers side of the throttle body. it threads into the intake manifold and a hose connects to the other side, going to the large 3" or so intake hose i think. the knock sensors simply crack at the base if you wanted to pull it and check. cheap ones are available on ebay - bheinen, member here, sells them here for cheap too. i've heard of people trying to fill the cracks with silicone/epoxy, though i've never tried it nor would I. LOL EGR's sometimes just need cleaning the hoses and valve out. you'll probably need a new gasket if you go to remove the valve though.

actually i was surprised, they had multiple categories of aluminum - i had a large load of aluminum and he weighed it in 3 or 4 different batches based on type of aluminum, so there are differences, i just don't know what they are. i was surprised and asked if i had covered all the types, he said nah there were more? the aluminum wheels were not weighed the the aluminum engine parts, whatever that means. i didn't have any valves, i trash those in a big metal trash receptacle that just went with a huge load to the scrap yard for $7 per hundred.

on EA82's the fronts are the easy part, it's the rear that's the more difficult part of the conversion in terms of finding the parts. EJ's are not at all an option in the rear. dealing with axles isn't that big of a deal is it? if you're swapping all the hubs and converting the rears....figuring out an axle solution to whatever you choose seems like a drop in the bucket? i hear you on wheels - i have a bunch of sets of wheels and rotate them all over the place.

rear diffs *never* fail on subarus, i wouldn't even waste my time looking there yet - the issue will be trans related. 1. check that the driveshaft is connected to the trans and rear diff. maybe someone pulled the shaft. 2. the clutch drum (is that the MPT thing?) can shear off giving no power to the rear, i've sold them before. get one used or price it out from Subaru and see if it's worth it? 3. in general the codes aren't that necessary or helpful with 4WD component issues, it's usually diagnosed easily enough via symptoms. 4. cylinder misfire is usually simply tune up stuff - OEM NGK spark plugs and Subaru ignition wires are best. other stuff can cause it but those are the most common causes and considered maintenance items anyway. as to the ABS - sometimes the ABS is fine except in inclement weather, so be wary. the only real issue will probably be if you have poor tires, aged, low tread, bad in snow tires, etc. some early ABS around your year - actually i think it was 1996 had an ABS issue where the fuse or relay associated with the hydraulic pump up in the front passengers side of the engine by in front of the air filter - would freak out and continuously run after the car was shut off. pulling the fuse is a work around for that issue....you could probably google or serach it here but i think it was 96? bad tires freak the ABS system out, i can't over state that, it is a scary proposition when you see it for the first time. i swore the ABS system was terrible (and many others do as well when they see this) when i had a 1997 Impreza that could not stop down steep snow covered grades - it was impossible to stop, the brakes would continually pulse without ever bringing the car to a stop - but i could stop with the emergency brake. the tires had plenty of tread on them but i guess they were just aged or weathered and while i could stop with the ebrake it was flipping out the ABS - getting new tires completely solved the issue. so just be ware it might not be immediate but something could still show up if you haven't hit snows yet.

probably simpler to just repair the axles. regrease and reboot them. axles will often quiet up a lot, smooth out, and sometimes work perfectly after being horribly vibrating - once cleaned and regreased and rebooted properly. stuff some grease all up in there by hand, spreading it all around - if the issues go away or mitigate then rebooting will likely bring the axles back to tolerable usage. if they're original Subaru axles anyway - if they're aftermarket then they may be junk. it would be good to know for sure what vehicle/trans. but - rather than remove the axle entirely you disassemble the front axles and install just the outer CV joint into the hubs. the splined end of the CV joint passes through the hub to keep the bearings clean and happy. be cool if there was a way to disassemble that joint on the vehicle, but i dont' think i'd be trying that, the inner joints are not easy to separate. then just lock the center diff (if it's FT4WD with center diff lock) or put it in 4WD (if it's PT4WD).

ideally you assemble the heads and cams with assembly lube or at least oil. you didn't install everything dry right? as long as you assembled all the services with lubricant it'll be fine to crank over. that being said - priming is a good idea and doing what you said will do it perfectly - just crank the engine over with the fuel injectors unplugged. that keeps fuel from spraying into the cylinders and washing the oil off the cylinder walls.

copy and i will edit

Full time 3.7's: 87+ Turbo Wagons XT Turbo's with FT4WD (XT's have a some specific shifter linkages 87-89 (per GD below) RX's newer like 2006ish WRX's some have 3.7 too! EA 3.7's FT4WD MT's only came in turbo vehicles so they all have the turbo or XT6 spline shaft counts. if it's going into a car that currently has a non-turbo trans then you'll need to swap inner DOJ's or axles to match the new trans, but that's easy.

hey, there you are, awesome!

they were $800? it's hard to buy an outstanding $800 car that's going to get a raving review and they're rarely a good fit for someone that's basically buying the cheapest car that moves. i know you know all this rick...not saying it's not possible or I haven't done it but i wouldn't suggest it's common and what everyone buying $800 cars should expect. learning the ropes, reading and asking here, and being vehicle specific gets my vote, but who knows maybe an inspection is a better fit, lots of factors involved including personality - like if you're not attention to detail or good at reading people/sellers and asking questions (it's really easy in my opinion - if there's any hint that you would rather avoid the person or leave a kid in their care - start thinking about moving on).

intakes are aluminum and recyclable like the cross over pipes, i just took a load two weeks ago.

as mentioned final drive has to be the same on trans and rear diff - if you get a different geared trans, just get a matching rear diff. 98+ the bellhousing bolt pattern changed from 4 to 8, but the old version 4 still line up with 4 out of the 8 of the newer style so it doesn't matter. just a heads up since they'll look a little different and yards and people will say they can't interchange. the only impreza you can't use a 1993 FWD version but you won't want or find that anyway. hydraulic and clutch cable like dave said is another difference. both are interchangeable though - so again, don't worry about that, just swap the clutch components of the one you want on the trans you're installing. very simple.

4.11 is the same gearing available in OBW and GT's and basically most EJ25's. EJ22's got the 3.9's. only auto's get the higher number ratios (i think i know but am not positive what you mean by "taller"). draining the gear oil in a pan or filter that will show the condition of the oil and any metal might help give you good vibes on a used trans. if you're going to essentially rebuild it anyway you could probably get a used trans with a bad input shaft bearing or possibly synchro's if they're reasonably priced cheap and replace that while it's apart - you'd get a cheap trans and new bearing. replace the input shaft bearing while you're in there anyway - they are a common issue. my buddy has one if you're headed south any time soon LOL. good luck beast!

i didn't see Johns offer until you replied - i wasn't trying to get in the way of that. his trans might be a better fit, i might even prefer it honestly as my friend never heard this one run. but the engine was overheated so that almost guarantees the transmission was fine. i'll get in touch and get the details and let him know this thread is here, he is an uncommon visitor here but a member. call around, particularly favor transmission shops. i had a local shop in maryland - ironically they were known to be typically expensive because they were large, had been around for decades and did good work - but they would only charge $150 labor to install your used transmission. if you're set up for it and do it every day it's actually fairly simple and can be done in a couple-few hours. call around and you might get a more reasonable price. that being said - it's kind of annoying to do yourself with a few tricky parts that good equipment and experience make the difference between 5 minutes and 3 hours to work through. working on your back, wrestling it out, separating the engine/trans (see the current thread with someone stuck on theres as a real world right now example), if you have any rust to deal with - though on engine swaps the only big issue is the exhaust nuts - which just come out attached to the studs as a "bolt", so no big deal. exhaust is usually rusted and annoying....but that can be repaired and an exhaust shop can weld on new flanges to your converter, etc. the huge positive with doing it yourself is you can replace the seals that should be replaced while it's in there - i mean a shop can do that to but price goes up much quicker for cheap seals. get a metal separator plate, reseal that (easy, only a few minutes), and a new torque converter seal is not a bad idea - though i have never seen one leak. be advised to know exactly how to install the torque converter - not fully seating it is a common mistake and hoses the transmission. there's a great write up here - i think by john even detailing how to do that. if you don't mind working under a car, being on your back, wiggling and working at it - you can do it yourself. time is helpful - if it can be down for a couple days while you get a part or ask questions here you're much better off than needing to finish it in one weekend to get to work when stores are closed and time is limited. you can use an engine lift to install - roll the trans around under the car - get the front of the car up high enough to do that - then pass chains through the engine bay and around the transmission to pull it up and through with an engine lift. my buddy with the trans has an engine lift - maybe he'd rent it to you, or let you borrow it with a refundable downpayment until you return it? i'd do that if you were in morgantown.

either the engine mount bolts aren't clearing the cross member (look underneath and make sure they are clearly above the crossmember), or you don't have all the bolts out holding the engine to the trans yet - there are 8 bolts on that engine. do NOT pry it - i did that once and a huge chunk of aluminum sheared off the transmission bell housing. i'm lucky i have some limited metal fabrication, working, drilling, welding, torch equipment so i could repair it - but it was not fun and some people would considerable a transmission replacement the only repair. so if something is hug - don't force it. exhaust, pitch stopped, flexplate bolts ( if it has them?) at the same time - it can hang on corroded dowel pins - that would be most likely if this engine has never been out before. if it has they usually come off easier. if you suspect this - gradually "rock" the engine back and forth, it's a tedious process but works - pry one side out a mm or so - then go to the other side and do the same, work your way around the bellhousing doing that - after enough rocking like that it will separate. i've only had one or two that were really bad like that - just needed constant rocking to separate and i pound away with chisels and have a 4 foot unbelievably heavy digging bar, i do not care about scratching or marring the benign bellhousing - i go right at it head on (proven by my shearing of a huge chunk of aluminum off the trans!!!!!).

i've also seen PPI's with laundry lists and goofy suggestions on Subarus that aren't very real world applicable and would probably deter an unknowing buyer from buying any car in the price range he's talking about (since i'm talking about $5,000 cars usually). *some* of the things listed are valid, but lots can be sort of guess word or scary verbage to a buyer not familiar with automotive stuff.

subaru auto trans are robust enough that used is a good option. if you otherwise like the car another trans is a decent option if you like the vehicle otherwise. personally i'd want a complete timing belt kit installed given the mileage if you're going to want it to actually last you another reliable 60,000 miles. the kits are cheap on ebay for your year vehicle and not hard to install. because they don't fail often they're also cheap - $700 in parts is way too high. i would be looking around the $200-$400 range, $700 is way too high. a friend of mine in charleston, WV has either a 96 or 98 auto trans from an EJ22 legacy that should fit yours that he doesn't have a need for.

come to a forum like this first for advice, not after you're hosed. second - inspect the vehicle. to buy a car you have to sign the title....so you could have looked at the mileage listed. that many issues and that shady of a person to do that should have been obvious to spot - it's a very rare shady person that sells $800 cars without being noticed by an astute buyer. what they said - $800 vehicles are usually junk - keep in mind they're worth $300 in scrap prices and maybe $400 or $500 at a JUNKYARD - that vehicle was only a couple hundred bucks above scrapyard and junkyard prices, you can't expect much. generally speaking it's better to get a cheap car that has a known huge issue - that sort of implies (not always - you always need to do homework and make some obervations about the seller) anyway - it's not too hard to get a nice subaru for $500 that needs a transmission...pay a mechanic $500 to put another used trans in and you've got a great car for $1,000. that's a far better method - requires a little organizing and effort - but well worth it and an easier way to get a good $1,000 car than you attempted.

i use those codes too - i used P20 last week for a 20% off deal. and there's a %25 off of brake parts code too but i forget what it is, but i used that last week as well. $20 on $50 sounds good, like you i can always throw together an assortment of things that will be needed at some point.

awesome John, thanks! glad you got that H6 too! are those the best spark plug for the H6 - i need to replace them in both of my H6's as well. looks like now might be a good time with that code.

makes sense to check. water was from reading online and the Authority on auto repair - youtube videos thanks all, as nice as it always was dropping them off at a machine shop, i like finally learning all this technical head stuff!

99EJ22 with slipped timing belt. All the pistons have valve contact marks on them....but there's only 2 bent valves. ***Keeping in mind the "engine was replaced before", but he doesn't know specifically what that means. It has a Phase I block and Phase II heads so something (or both) is not original. So those *could* be previously existing marks. 1. Can valves and pistons contact without bending valves? They're so small I figured they'd always bend. 2. Is it possible for a bent valve to pass the water holding test? Doesn't seem like it to me, but first time doing valves.