idosubaru

agreed, or post pictures. your descriptions sound way worse than how you seem to be interpreting the situation so i'm confused. if the spring and ball came out via the engine side of the pump then something is seriously wrong, this isn't just a simple gasket thing or tweak or alignment - something has failed unless i'm missing something.

thanks for the follow up and good work figuring it out! oh is that like a newer style shaft or something? the shafts i'm used to just have 4 bolts (like the ones attached to the rear diff) holding the front and rear halves of the driveshaft together. unbolt the rear half and the front just stays in place with the carrier bearing. yours sounds like a different style. since it had a joint of some sort it had to still have that middle mounting point. my guess is that's the same location as the older style carrier bearing two pieced driveshaft and you could also just buy that older style front driveshaft and bolt it in place. the transmissions are definitely interchangeable so that end sliding into the trans would be the same.

if it just fell out then it's probably broken and you need a new oil pump unless you dare try to repair it. the spring and ball should not come out of the opening it sits inside of in the oil pump. i've seen the lips of that opening crack and allow the spring and ball to come out. you didn't say you attempted to disassemble, just that it "fell out" that implies to me that this is what happened. ironically i saw that only on a brand new pump that had very low miles on it. you'd have to repair that for it to retain the ball and spring again. probably simpler to replace but i suppose you could try welding a washer or bead around it to repair....just don't weld the ball in place and be careful as all that heat will probably easily warp the thin oil pump housing structure - making sealing the mickey mouse gasket which is already problematic not any easier.

Transmission gear oil dipstick is on the passengers side below the intake hose. Drain plug is underneath behind the engine plug. I'd have a look at the axle, can you post a picture and we might be able to tell by looking at the axle cup color or boot bands. AFtermarket axles are notoriously problematic and have issues right out of the box or at any time down the road. I've seen the exact issue you're talking about - vibrations are more common in my experience but noises...or any other failure for that matter...never surprise me with aftermarket axle failure.

that sounds like an inner DOJ joint is bad. that is the inner joint on the front CV axles. do you ever have any vibrations at all while accelerating hard? have you ever had: 1. a busted inner boot? 2. aftermarket axles installed? if yes to either of those two then there's a good chance the axle is causing it.

that's what my last question was supposed to say, thank you.

depends who you talk to but brakes aren't as complicated as often talked about. 1 if your pads look good regrease and clean the clips 2 if pads look bad replace those and do step 1 as well details: if they aren't currently vibrating, keep the rotors. there's no reason to replace. if you were concerned about them you can have them resurfaced, i don't touch rotors until they vibrate which isn't often if pads are properly replaced and slides greased. hard to tell but pads look like they might have meat on them, but you really need to check all 4 not just one on one side. key is to properly clean and grease the slides with disk brake caliper grease and replace any of the slide boots that are bad. the pad clips often are cruded up with black pad dust material or possibly corrossion. they are a pain to clean, i like to just replace them. i've seen quite a few instances of the brake pad "hanging" in place where it rubs against the rotor because the clips are dirty and won't allow the pads to move properly. i just fixed a friends noisy brakes - tons of meat, the clips were just as i mentioned, cleaned them up and he said it's quiet as a whistle. ironically his didn't even look that bad, nothing worse than i've seen countless times before.

tap, screech, knock, squeal? if you're saying "bad" it doesn't sound good, boo!? sounds like you're not leaning towards these but accessory belts/pulleys? removing both belts and cranking the motor rules out belts, pulleys, alt, p/s, a/c bearings.

sounds like something else but how is the gear oil in the trans? what does pushing clutch pedal in while moving do to the noise? does it go away at idle or coasting?

they are rather expensive for hose and the benign PCV system, but any dealer should be able to get them, just call them up. i'd just use flexible generic hose - buy it extra long so as to have room to snake it where it needs to be.

thanks guys. i was thinking they should be the same. i'll be getting them locally but it's out of the way so was checking first. this is actually the first EJ22 headgasket install i've ever done.

i have a 99 EJ22 pan i could send you if you needed it for some reason for cost of shipping.

+1 that's what i use.

awesome you're okay - was it hard to get out of the car, did you turn the engine off? wow, that seems like a lot of damage.

i prefer Fel Pro permatorque headgaskets on EA/ER engines - no need for a retorque. reuse headbolts on these, they are not intended to be replaced. on EA82's the intake manifold gaskets are much better to get from Subaru, aftermarkets are cheesy cardboard and prone to leak. these old subaru engines are rather easy to do, they're so easy i do them in the vehicle. it's usually not hard to come up with the Subaru factory service manual, scroll through that and ask if you have any questions. change the oil immediately after you're done to ensure the coolant isn't in the crank case. if oil mixed in with coolant, flush radiator and coolant hoses to get oil out.

one website was unclear by itself. i was looking at impreza's, which this engine came out of, which was more confusing. i'll check out the legacy stuff, maybe it'll be more clear? thanks porcupine.

I need headgaskets for an EJ22 that I have and I can't recall if it's from a 97 or 98. Online Subaru parts are showing some unclear information about whether or not they are the same on subarupartsforyou and subaruonlineparts.

Tell us the actual code number P0XYZ ..... the "interpretations" and suggestions by the auto parts or random places are often not that helpful...sometimes they are, but uninformed advice is easy to come by too. Without knowing, my guess is you simply need a new front Oxygen sensor. Get a front Bosch O2 sensor - aftermarket is fine, some folks prefer to get them from Subaru. No, you do not clean oxygen sensors, that's hysterical. You do not need a catalytic converter, it is not clogged and a typical "guess" from someone that doesn't know what they're talking about.

your neighbor is stealing your oil? 1 quart for every 400 miles is an insane amount of oil, it's got to show up somewhere? you can't just dump 5 quarts of oil every 2,000 miles in an engine and not have a sign?\ you've thoroughly checked everywhere for any sign of a leak? pull the intake a few times and keep an eye on it - maybe you only pulled it when it was lightly leaking and now that it's really bad you just haven't seen it yet? never any blue smoke?

you can pack the boots with grease and that will bring them back down to normal levels - i've done it on both inner and outer joints. stuff them with grease by hand and they won't overheat and won't fail. my friend back in college would wrap them in saran wrap to keep the grease in, i've never done that though!! he considered that a permanent fix. south georgia sand TORE UP the outer CV joints in no time on mine which had bad CV boot. packing it with grease bought me a few weeks (drove 900 miles back to Maryland even) until I could replace them. they'd start getting REALLY loud and i'd just stuff grease in there by hand (be careful if you've been driving, it gets really hot in there!). also went elk hunting in colorado two years ago and busted both inner boots out there and the vibrations were shaking the entire car at various speeds, was vibrating almost so bad the car didn't feel drivable. i packed it a couple times by hand and made the 2,000 mile drive back to Maryland to replace the boots.....actually i just rebooted and they've been smooth as silk even after all the abuse! go MWE!!! anyway - stuff some grease in there dave to buy time regardless of what you choose.

what makes you think it's a cracked head? best to repair it right and move on. recognize you got hosed on the deal and shop more cautiously next time? something wasn't done right or you were knowingly sold a bad motor....maybe it's already had bottles of junk dumped into it to mask this in the first place so it could be sold? a catastrophic failure happens shortly after buying that raises a red flag. are you positive it's bad enough that it is a failure and not something else? intake manifold gaskets. many of the aftermarkets are cheap and barely better than cardboard and prone to leak. wouldn't dump a ton of coolant into the oil but maybe enough would get by rings and such to contaminate? freeze plugs as you say? if it's headgaskets then they should simply be replaced. i mean if you absolutely can't repair it right then you gotta do what you gotta do and hope for the best. Subaru has a coolant additive meant to repair leaking headgaskets on the newer EJ25's....i have no idea if it's a good idea to use this on older ones but at least it's intended for Subaru's?

don't click anything yet and scroll to the bottom left of the current page you're looking at - you'll see an entire list of valve adjustment threads already here. the search function gives similar solutions - instant answers! yours being SOHC is the super easy kind - just remove valves covers and have some feeler gauges, really simple actually. it's the DOHC EJ25's that are a real debacle.

you should be able to tell for sure when you get it but unscrew the cable and the electrical sender just swaps right in it's place.

i've seen conversion "boxes" that change it for you aftermarket. folks have re-made their instrument clusters to change colors and designs on the back ground, you could possibly do the same for the numbering.

spark plugs are a challenge on these motors and easier with the covers off, good time to do those if around the time they're needed. subaru has the opposed forces website as well with all part numbers. someone posted all the part numbers for an H6 of your vintage headgasket job on subaruoutback.org too.