idosubaru

sounds like you already got one but i have a Legacy FWD MT.

if it's really bad like they can get in the rust belt, remove entire bracket/caliper from car if you have to and take it to a shop. they'll use a torch and have it out in a matter of minutes for a few bucks. you'll need new boots obviously but it probalby already does anyway.

bought mine at 120,000 - it now has 180,000 after many years with no issues. due for a timing belt now and i'll be thanking myself for leaving them off. it does clean it up and make them look nicer, but i don't give a rip what it looks like.

John I have an H6 automatic rear trans mount, you want it send me a PM. not sure on compatibility.

The 98 EJ25 will have EGR so if your 96 does have EGR it's simple. Still works, swaps, runs just fine if it doesn't have EGR you just might need to plug up the EGR ports/solenoid or leave them for decoration?! lol No need to swap computers - EJ22 ECU will run it just fine. I've swapped ECU's on EJ swapped vehicles and noticed zero difference at all, I wouldn't bother. 98 has a different bolt pattern but don't let it fool you - still bolts right up, no big deal. You'll need to swap the exhaust manifold from the 98 onto the 96. For auto's you need to retain the EJ22 flexplate, the flywheel is currently eluding me..... I'd prefer the EJ22 as well without a thought. You could sell or trade the EJ25, they are easily sold due to multiple failures creating a steady demand for them. If you were interested read about EJ25 head gaskets, bottom end bearing failures, and DOHC valve adjustments/burnt valves. The 96 will have about a $100 cheaper timing belt kit too. All EJ25's are interference, and while most 96 EJ22's are supposed to be non-interference I've heard reports that some are not - like a recently bent valve EJ22 on another forum.

this: the originals are often robust and easily reused, i've done it countless times.

impossible to answer without knowing what vehicle/year. this is not a direct swap for 1990-1994 or 1999+ EJ22. that's probably why you're confused because the answer to your question (if it's a 1995-1998 EJ22) is "yes" it's a plug and play swap. since you have the entire car you can swap the exhaust manifold with it if you have too. 95 EJ22 won't need it swapped - anything else will - but it's really easy since you have to unbolt the manifold from the engine anyway to pull the motor. after that it's like 3 or 4 more bolts to get the entire manifold off and put the EJ25 onto the EJ22 vehicle. bolts right up. engine drops in and plugs in, nothing to it, just an engine swap. if both EJ22 and EJ25 have EGR (the EJ25 will have it, EJ22's can vary) - then it's the same. if the EJ22 doesn't have it then everything still works fine but you'll need to work around that (easy). use your EJ22 flexplate on the EJ25 engine if it's an auto. powersteering lines just kind of hang there because the mounting points are different - but no big deal. if it's a 1998 or 1999 DOHC then the bellhousing bolt pattern is different than earlier EJ22's but still bolts up and works just fine. telling us what year you're talking about will help distinguish these details.

axle has failed and needs replaced. do *not* buy anything aftermarket. if you're tempted to buy one from a store just do a search here, on google, or any other subaru forum to see the inconsistency and unreliability of aftermarket axles. i've seen countless failures and that is a common issue, not anecdotal. get a used Subaru axle and reboot it or MWE. a little extra effort and annoying - yes, but well worth it. if you mean the cv axle - you only need one jackstand for that - jack that tire up and remove it. it's not terribly hard if yo'ure mechnically inclined and have tools. on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being hardest i'd call it a 4 only for some tricky parts - it's really only like a 1 or 2 with good tools. you'll need a 3/16" punch to remove the axle pin on the transmission side. with good tools and having an axle ready to install on hand it can be done in 30 minutes - hour easily. once the wheel is off you literally only have to remove one bolt and one nut to get the axle out. remove the axle nut and remove the top strut mount bolt. loosen the lower bolt, but don't remove it. tips which are easy once you do it one time: axle nut is a BEAST. have a 3 foot pipe or really long tools for leverage. it can be one of the most difficult nuts to remove on the vehicle. use a punch or chisel to knock out or cut the indentation mostly out of the way on the nut (you'll see when you look at it). doesn't have to be perfect, unthreading the nut will push anything in the way out of the way. mark the *head* of the bolt you remove - it affects alignment as it's a cambered bolt. just knock it and the strut housing simultaneously with a chisel or mark it however you please to get it back in the same position. it's not rocket science or machine shop kind of tolerances so don't sweat it. when reinstalling the replacement axle - it only installs one way - look at the splines on the trans and the splines in the axle and line them up - you'll notice the hole the pin goes through the splines are lined up differently on each of the two holes - make sure axle and trans sides line up. again - really simple, just need to know that and do it once.

maybe you mentioned it but take an OBDII scanner. i just did a full DOHC EJ25 timing belt and it was unbelievably quick - all new pulleys, tensioner, and belt. no water pump or seals and it was only 45 minutes. had zero rust on anything, so it all came apart really easy, that never happens. LOL change the belt and failed pulleys if any and don't remove the coolant line, don't reinstall the covers and it can be a really quick job.

good job roy, keep up the good work!

alignment, spring or struts should all be able to cause this? caboob knows his alignment stuff, hopefully he can help. a really bad case of busted bushings or rust would probably cause it too but i'd expect those to be obvious?

Value varies wildly - what's it worth to you to have a good vehicle? If doing the labor yourself, even with the $580 asking price you could easily be into a reliable high mileage capable vehicle for under $1,000. That's not a bad deal for someone that needs a car and can end up with something reliable and capable of a lot of cheap miles into the future. Wear and tear, cosmetics, and rust matter. lots of wear, dings, scratches, been sitting for 3 years, pealing clear coat and rust holes....i'd pass. if it's pristine and the guy seems honest, has some service records, etc - i'd be willing to pay more. EJ22 failures are usually due to running low on oil or coolant. no engine can withstand that.

nice hit, good to know. s this is the one in the one in the crossover pipe right?

+1 someone must not like you or installed your old failing one into the other vehicle! those things very rarely fail. they fail so rarely i'd install a used one....or new aftermarket, definitely wouldn't buy new from Subaru. i've never actually seen one fail, i don't even recall hardly ever seeing it on the online Subaru forums. that would be really weird to have two of them fail.

i've never done that, there's no need to in order to replace the ujoints. not sure about your second question but yes the Rockford ones have a ring situated on the end caps inside of the yoke, if that helps? they don't come with great directions (or at least the ones i bought did not when i bought them) but i believe i took photos of and posted the pictures of the instructions that come with them, it would have been either here or subaruxt.com. here is rockfords (the ujoints i've used before) current online version: http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked_Instructions.htm "After pressing or pounding the old u-joints out, find an adjustable hand reamer to finish ream the holes in the yokes, then finish by hand with 600 grit. Makes a big difference. End cap OD is .867, I adjust the reamer to .863-865. Does a great job of cleaning out what metal remains from the staking. It is a real PITA without a press, but is possible. Just make sure the yoke is supported so your hammer blows dont bend the yoke." i haven't and have not noticed a difference. a driveline shop could do that for you if you wanted.

2 on every single wheel? that doesn't make any sense at all....weird. first step is to just get a 12x 1.25 Die and chase the threads with it. they use a 1" socket to turn so you'll want one of those or the tool that for turning a die works as well - i've done it a hundred times. clean the threads up and you should be good to go. if they're that bad i like to run a tap through the lugs too that way the threads on both are identical, clean, and smooth. same thing, get a 12x1.25 tap...or i'll mail you one, i think i have 3! Just kidding....harbor freight has a 40 piece tap and die set for something stupid cheap like $7 or $12 or something. excellent tools to have on hand for stuff like this, they've saved me a lot of money and time over the years. if you really do need to replace the lugs - like he said knock them out. the tone ring requires disassembly of the wheel bearings to completely *remove*. you could possibly unscrew it from the hub and have it dangle out of the way if there's not enough clearance to get the lug stud out.

what he said - never replace Subaru head bolts, it's a complete waste of time and money. there is no need unless you're too lazy to wipe/clean off the old bolts. i'm not seeing old/crusty EJ headbolts yet, older Gen stuff can be pretty bad, but still nothing a wire drill doesn't wipe out in a couple seconds.

One thing for certain - adjust the valves. Get an ebay timing belt kit -all new pulleys, tensioner pulley, and belt for cheap. Do not reuse those nearly 20 year old pulleys. I prefer OEM for EJ engines. There have been a few Fel-Pro failures in EJ motors, one just recently on Subaruoutback.org. It might be that older Fel-Pro's weren't as good or whatever but given the sensitivity of other EJ/newer gen engines to headgasket issues it's not worth the risk to me. Make your own opinion. I generally resurface but I wouldn't call it necessary, it'll probably hold without a resurface too.

they came highly recommended for OBW's on another subaru forum and i bought them based on those recommendations. they were only $51 each from either rockauto or advanced auto parts and free shipping.

same around here and Maryland and Georgia - autoparts stores, the big chains, and most shops will take gear oil or ATF any day of the weak for free. they recycle it or the shops will burn it to heat their garages in the winter which is what many probably do in Detroit, i imagine there are some brisk winter days there! i've done the unhook lines before as well - fairly simple, just a little tricky that the lines are short to work with but not too bad on most EJ's with lines at the bottom of the rad.

you can cross reference parts on car-parts.com or subaru's own opposedforces website - that's the definitive source. if it's the same style - if the Legacy doesn't have the "new" suspension style set up then the forester hub will interchange, the 99 and 2000 Forester has the "old" style hub that will interchange with any EJ from the prior decade, so if the legacy has the same suspension set up it'll swap.

Rockford has been selling them for a long time, that's who I always used. I can't recall ever seeing another manufacturer.

rotate tires and see if it moves. otherwise sounds like a wheel bearing is starting to fail. drive it and put a temp gun to it - and see that side get hotter than the other. i forget when legacy changed to the new style rear suspension set up, but if it's the old style, they loose rear bearings all the time. i've replaced countless.

i had a 97 automatic that was hesitating badly, wouldn't down shift, and i *think* it was giving some EGR related code - because i replaced the EGR valve with new, gasket, and solenoid to no avail. i finally replaced that little quarter diameter sized filter on the passengers side vacuum hose, $7 from Subaru and all hesitation went away. never had a problem again and a friend now owns that car. i'm not familiar with EGR so listen to others that offer diagnosis, etc - i'm just relaying one experience i had.

i rarely come across seized subaru calipers, i think i've only seen it once, i wouldn't even consider replacing more than one.