idosubaru

i've never been that impressed with the 95-99 era seats either but haven't spent a ton of time in OBW's of that gen. buddy of mine just looked into swapping 03 Legacy seats into his 97 Legacy and said they were not a direct swap...but i didn't see it, he just looked into it like two weeks ago. i have a spare set of 2000-2004 leather seats i could measure the mounting points on.

similar thing happened with Beck Arnley headgaskets....both looked different for the same part number. this was for an EA82 but I didn't use them either.

the short blocks interchange, long blocks i'm not sure. make sure both have EGR or both don't have EGR. that's a common variable over the years with Subaru with little rhyme or reason as to which models/years get EGR or not. i've seen same year/model/trans have EGR and not have it. friends out west seem to see different trends than i do...regional difference or coincidence? auto/manual makes no difference in Subaru's, engines are the same, you'll just bolt your flexplate in place of the flywheel to install in your auto. properly repaired and maintained your engine is likely to outlast all sorts of other components so i wouldn't lean too heavily on that other motor unless it's a compelling fit. for the engines, yards say 2006-2007 compatible and 2008-2009 being compatible. the short blocks are interchangeable between 2005-2010 so you could use the 2006 heads and intake manifold on the 2009 engine block.

someone else has a thread on here about seats and a bad back and legacy related, check that thread out. if yours are cloth, go sit in some leather seats. given the reasoning you may want to try upgrading to newer leather seats too....though i'm not sure about compatability between later gen and older gen OBW's. any 1995-1999 Legacy will be a direct swap, bolt in for you. the second gen 2000-2004 H6 leather seats (and maybe H4's too, i just haven't been in one recently) are firm, you might want to sit in some of those and see how that treats you?

I bypass it and run ATF hose from the cooler all the way to the trans. done right it's never going to fail and eliminates a few hose/clamp connections, so you "gain" reliability in terms of removing points of failure. and it's all really simple and easy to repair that way too.

what's the condition/history of the carburetor? i would lean towards that but folks more familiar with them will hopefully chime in shortly. does it do this every time, often, or it's just done it once or twice? trying to determine if the 15 minutes is a consistent symptom. doubt it's the case here but it's not impossible for fuel pumps to tweak when heated up. fuel filter - equally unlikely since i wouldn't expect it to be so predictable with the 15 minute thing.

+1, might as well do it right if you're going to drain antifreeze and go through the trouble.

same reply i just typed on subaruxt.com: i can't watch the video from here... you sound convinced it's related to the diff oil? when you say "changed my fluids" - do you mean ATF and diff oil or only one of those? does the 3AT have both like other auto's? the 3AT's have some very specific issues - a governor or modulator or something? i'm not familiar with them but wondering if too much fluid will hose them up in some way. they are often easy fixes.... are you sure you used the proper fluids - gear oil in the diff and ATF in the trans? subaru automatic transmissions typically receive gear oil in the front diff and ATF in the transmission - folks have been known to dump the wrong fluid in the wrong one. if it's not transmission/fluid related then i would suspect one of the DOJ's on the cv axle is bad (have the axles ever been replaced or boots busted?). aftermarket axles are notoriously problematic, offering a wide range of issues - one being vibration on accel/decel. or the ujoints in the rear driveshaft if it's a 4WD version, they can thumb on accel or decel as well.

there's supposed to be a bolt in that hole....how long has it been running/driving without that bolt in place? how long were you previously driving this car without issues? what lead you to finally start tracking this down...symptoms, etc?

if it's that consistent the radiator is partially clogged or possibly the water pump impeller is aged. radiatorbarn.com you can often get new radiators for well under $100 shipped to your door.

looks like they're cross listed all over the place though, so seems like they're the same. i already ordered since your first reply. i would trust your intuition before rockauto listings LOL Rockauto has the worst listings, at least for the XT6, drill down for an XT6 and it shows parts for 4 cylinder stuff that's not applicable for an XT6, like drum shoes, 4 point distribtutor caps, etc....i usually cross reference their part numbers against amazon, ebay, advanced, etc to verify.

great, thanks rob. i did that but it's not unheard of for XT6 parts to be lumped in with EA82 stuff even if it's not the same. someone very familiar with both, also a member here, said they were not the same, so i wanted to check.

spark plug may not be fully seated or could be stripped, causing an "escaping of compression" sound. not going to be a bolt hole.

are they?

fill the cylinder with shaving cream so it's all the way up into the spark plug hole to catch the metal from drilling/tapping? i have a mis-seated spark plug in my daily driver XT6 so if chasing the threads doesn't fix it, then i'll be revisiting this thread/tool shortly.

none of that is applicable to his question, but even the oil cooler, while a technical difference, has nothing to do with swapping the engines. it can be ignored, removed, or installed onto the new engine.

same engine. make sure both have EGR or don't have EGR. or you're willing to live with or work around the issues if they're different. we can fill you in about what happens and the work arounds if that turns out to be the case, good chance they'll be the same. if there was any issue it would be with the cam sprockets, they need to be swapped because the trigger points differ sometimes in 99+ Ej25's....while that is generally true I can't remember if that's EJ22, EJ25 or swapping between the two where that matters, but either way it's simple to swap the cam sprockets (keep them with the vehicle so to speak).

i've never done the control sequence thing, so you should be golden. thanks for reporting back and glad it worked out.

i'd post pictures of what you need and how many in the parts forum. those bolts, particularly the valve cover bolts, are going to be specialty items due to their shape. should'nt be too hard to get some valve cover bolts from someone off here. with the step downs on the shank and grommets they go through i doubt you'll be matching one of those up anyhwere and they'll cost $8 each from subaru or something insane. you can all but ignore the timing belt cover bolts. you don't need them all anyway, i typically install every other one on my own vehicles...if i install the timing covers that is. saves you work next time. if you can't leave a bolt out, you can get away with using regular bolts, just take one you have to a hardware store with you and match up the threads - they are metric and will be 1.00 or 1.25 pitch threads. many of us don't even install the timing covers, or all of them, not a big deal, makes for easier maintenance the next time around. one of my is right at 60,000 miles and due for a timing belt right now.

!!!!!! that's awesome, so eigth grade-ish. !

first drain the coolant and add two bottles of Subaru's Coolant Conditioner. If they're slow coolant only leaks sometimes that shuts them up. that conditioner is required on your engine so make sure it gets it after the repair.

SJR makes them and sells them. He has a website, sjrlift.com i think.

i went through a similar process bleeding ABS for the first time...turns out i haven't had any issues just plain on bleeding the things.

i would follow the owners manual unless there's a compelling reason not to do what Subaru says. which in this case i think means just draining and refilling. that engine requires Subaru's coolant conditioner, i'd definitely make sure it's got that in there. it's never a bad idea to change fluids early....whether it's necessary or not or what value you get, if any, is highly subjective and nearly impossible to quantify. 25,000 miles sounds premature, though time is important too.

those components do not share a relay and the ECM doesn't control them, nor do they have a common controller/computer. a wiring diagram would be most helpful, it would isolate what these components share in common. i only have the engine section of the FSM for 1982 EA81, no wiring.