idosubaru

doubt this is it but it'll get asked eventually - what kind of ignition wires? i had a 1997 OBS that would hesitate badly, could barely make it up a really steep grade at low speeds on the way home. i think i did get an EGR code though...after replacing the EGR and solenoid it ended up being the small round quarter sized filter on the passengers side inline with a vacuum hose. not sure if it was the filter itself or just replacing it freed up a vacuum line, doesn't seem like that little thing could cause any difference but it went from problematic for a couple weeks to gone forever and my friend has been driving that car for years since. $7 at the dealer and i think i found that suggestion online.

thanks, will be looking later this week. nice hit on the spacers, i hear you on that. mine has two arms with flat hooks that are two wide to fit down between the spring and head casing. i can get one arm to grab the spring, but then the other is too far away from the spring and runs into head, can't get them both on evenly at all. the two inner arms are also two wide to set on top of the valve spring cap - only one of the arms fits on it so it can only press down one side of the valve spring cap. i've used it for older gen stuff.

that's not a bad price, glad you found one. that is not correct as far as interchangeability and would help if you edited and corrected it for future users. junkyards go by computers which don't know all the interchanges, only a percentage - dealers don't typically do swaps so they aren't the most well versed either. having actually done these swaps before, along with others on here, there are other motors that will work. it doesn't help the next person with this question to repeat incorrect information, you can also use: 2000 - 2001 Impreza 2.2's 1999 Legacy 2.2's some 99 and all 2000-2004 2.5's are also plug and play into that vehicle.

location matters too - some folks will jump on it. list it for sale and see what happens.

rusty fasteners like this just plain suck. seems they would have to be the same since rear diffs, axles, and hubs all interchange between legacy, impreza, forester, OBW. i'm sure you're using a 6 point socket and not a 12? gaining access sounds like an option if you think you can find a good spot to get at them. are they accessible through the access panel in the trunk for the fuel pump? maybe you could soak them down from in there? someone just posted in another thread like yesterday (a brake thread) about some other rust product, they covered a seized pin with a soaked cloth for a couple days and it came out....that might be worth a shot? i would try to get a socket with long freaking pipe on it if they're not stripping yet. not sure why but a long pipe will get some insane axle nuts off that my 960 ft/lb 3/4" impact can't. if sockets don't work could you drill the bolts out? i just had to drill one out (not a crossmember bolt though) and it wasn't as bad as i thought, 10 minutes or so and it finally backed out. oddly enough my friend put the drill in reverse even with a normal cut drill bit and somehow it still cut and eventually pulled the bolt out. need a high quality drill bit, keep it cool and lubricated and it can drill through a bolt head rather quickly. you'd want to use left handed drill bits - the heating and left handed motion will eventually turn them out. usually start with like one smaller bit then bump up to larger bit then you may have to end up with a bit the size of the shank if it's really bad. but high quality and left handed aren't typically available easily. even a propane torch can help sometimes, far from ideal but it can help. though with these i would think it's limited.

wow, you've had a debacle with this thing. FSM's are usually easy to get a hold of if you want some Subaru specific guidance on the rebuild. shoot me a message and i can hook you up with a digital copy probably. get the MLS Subaru headgasket that ends in 610, it's a better gasket than that thin thing they're probably going to hand you if you just ask for a headgasket for your car. the exhaust valves overheat when they're not adjusted....which is common on the DOHC's, no one (exaggerating) adjusts those things because it's a crazy a!@# job. the new style tensioners do fail more often, funny since they make the timing kits more expensive too...more expensive and less reliable i keep old style brackets to swap to the more reliable old style tensioners learning opportunity with the kids - TEAR IT UP! that's awesome. mine are 3 years and the other 1 month, time to get the 3 year old dirty! weird, nothing to do with anything but EJ25's only bend valves when the belt breaks or slips, no need to replace an engine. i'm sure it's a better fit sometimes though to replace. i'm currently repairing two with bent valves now from a slipped belt and broken belt.

I would call MWE, maybe he'll sell parts if you want to rebuild it. i'd buy an axle from MWE and be done forever. it's the easy 1 stop axle solution to avoid all the aftermarket issues and dealer price$$$$, or unavailability as the case may be. dealing with shipping and core stuff..yep it is a little annoying but not like leaking, clicking, vibrating, exploding to pieces brand "new" axles - issues i've seen multiple times. it's hard to imagine how these aftermarket companies are coming out with such low quality, it's unheard of for any other part. MWE usually has common axles in stock ready to go - which almost certainly means EA82's like you need given they still exist in Denver. the only differences in axles for EA82's (your vehicle) are turbo or non-turbo - all the axles are otherwise identical and interchangeable. auto, manual, FWD, 4WD, AWD, left or right...none of that matters, all turbo's are the same and all non-turbos are the same for EA82.

good points. subarus are simple to work on - alt, starter, power steering pump, pulleys, timing belt - everything is really easy IMO compared to transverse mounted annoyances - but the price you pay is twice the valve train and headgasket work! though this is really about the EJ25, not "Subaru's" in general. the thought experiment has almost nothing EJ25 specific in it. but you said it yourself, you know - there was some poor performance.

I think it was. sold, will do. thanks for the vote of confidence, first time doing this valve lapping stuff.

at least he tried to search even though it was different swap. yeah, the swap you did is done all the time and extremely common and simple. the one the grave digger posted about is not the same.

not necessarily, hard to say without seeing it. for it to be a problem either the caliper slides would need to be out of grease or the pad clips would need to be rusted/corroded. the rusting/seizing like you experienced isn't an immediate indication there's a real issue....but i can't say there isn't one either. if the brakes are functioning properly now that's a good sign they're okay though. you can visually watch the calipers as someone presses the brakes - if one is seizing you'll notice it "clamps" different than the others. so you can just watch the calipers from under the car while someone stomps the pedal for you. i just did this to a 2005 Buick last week, seized caliper pin the caliper would "rock" rather than clamp. quite obvious even to someone that's never done it before - it was notable different than the other side. if you got a really good, nice mechanic, then probably easy enough to try out. if you're at the whims of any old joker wanting to make some quick cash i'd probably pass. personally i have found it helpful to have an entire brake hardware kit on hand for my next brake job so it's got new clips and boots. the clips corrode and hang the pads. with places like rockauto i've gotten the hardware kits for like $5-$10 for both sides, well worth it.

if you want new: MWE is just as good as OEM without the absurd price. are you looking for the DOJ, parts, or the entire axle? there's no such thing as an "inner axle". so you mean front axle or inner joint? avoiding aftermarket axles is a good move, you may already know that but they aren't close to a 100% success rate, i avoid them.

i forgot to mention this earlier but Gloyale i think knows a place in Oregon that rebuilds EJ short blocks for $600 and i was under the impression they do a lot of them. sounds like a good option to bolt some good heads to. as to Rasta's engine sounds like that engine was seriously abused at some point or some horrific luck - your experience is nowhere near the norm. i've never heard of or seen valve guides pushed out and while the new style tensioners are less reliable than the old, repeat and 3peat failures would suggest something else is at work....like gremlins or someone hates you. with borked heads and a borked bottom ends and multiple failure after failure - i'd move on unless you're really time rich. good luck whatever route you take, sometimes trying to decide whether to work with what you got or move on gets old.

great, i should be able to google that tomorrow when i have real internet, thanks beast.

john from ky said to just lap those valves in when i lap the new ones in and he bets they hold just fine. given all the "seepers" were on one head i'm wondering if something caused that? seemed like valves were adjusted and not causing them to hang. sounds like a plan.

while tolerable for older gen stuff the one i have doesn't really work for EJ heads. how do you know if a valve spring compressor will work decent in an EJ? They're easy enough to remove with out one (with goggles!) - are they equally easy to install without one too?

1999 EJ22 broken timing belt: A couple of valves on one head slowly seep water, very slowly it gets wet around the valve edge, then very slowly gathers and drips after awhile. Can't see the water level decreasing after a couple minutes. It would take hours for it to leak the water out of the ports. That doesn't sound like bent valves which normally flow water, but I'm not very well versed in valves. Is that simple wear or bent valves? One head has two bent exhaust valves, rest have no leak at all when ports are filled with water. Second head has two bent intake valves and the other seepers mentioned above. *** Normally I'd do them all, that's all I've ever done, but at $20 each I'm not interested in that on this particular vehicle/motor.

or a 2000 or 2001, any 99+ EJ22. there aren't many though. in 99 they are found in some legacy and some imprezas. 2000 and maybe 2001 they are found only in imprezas. any of those will work. a phase II EJ25 will also work - 1999 Forester & Impreza RS (RS models only) and 2000+ Legacy/Outbacks.

i would assume the overheat hosed something else causing sensor issues. has anyone ever seen a hydrolocked EJ engine? i was fixing someones overheated forester (a 2000), they torched it pretty good. it wouldn't start at all after the severe overheat - swapping the entire intake manifold (that i got from Davebugs) solved the issue. i can only assume the heat damaged some of the sensors or fueling components on the intake....maybe something like that is happening here. the overheat needs fixed first, that's the big deal. sensors and ignition stuff isn't that big of a deal. but yeah - determining if the bottom end is good or not is nearly impossible and more of an art than a science. if it only had one overheat event, that's good, you'll just need to try to decide how bad it was. did the timing covers melt? that's usually a bad sign if they start to liquefy. let me know if you want to sell it, i'm only an hour from Pburgh.

the KYB's are heavily used on subaruoutback.org and seem more popular. i got new rears for my wagon for $51 each online - try advanced auto, thepartsbin.com, or rockauto.com and be sure to search for a discount coupon code for whichever one you go with. "P20" in the advanced auto parts online discount section gives you 20% off their prices right now, just used it the other day.

so you don't spray or pour any of this stuff down the pin/caliper - you just cove rit with a soaked cloth and that's it? sounds too good to be true!?! is this stuff different than PB Blaster/Yield type products? seems like it is?

and the MAF verses MAP change means it won't idle properly. how about repair the headgasket in the 2000? they're easy enough to do. if you can swap a motor you can replace a headgasket.

that's a very good idea. the DOHC's are problematic for a variety of physical and dynamic reasons. welcome aboard, i'm in Morgantown, will be traveling I68 Wed of this week and next, i'm from Maryland.

Miles Fox is somewhere around that region, he'd be a good one to check into, he's quite familiar with EA stuff and does a lot of work for folks in the past i believe.

that's not surprising for an overheating or hot running engine. stuff starts boiling/under pressure and ends up spraying into/out of the overflow. hopefully something simple?