idosubaru

if the sensor is corroded only just get a new sensor. if the connector is corroded: on XT6's the older temp sensor connector is like a generic fuel injector plug, i've got a bunch. if yours is similar to that you could get a new plug. you can also solder wire to the temp sensor connectors (sometimes you have to grind or cut away the plastic housing if its in the way of the soldering iron), then solder new wire into the wiring harness of the vehicle - and install plugs on each of the 4 wires to plug them in together. corrosion can even pass through the connector and up into the wiring - i've seen it up to 6 inches or so up in the wiring. if you want to get it all out that's a good way to do it. here's an XT6 one i did 8 years ago, with a picture: http://www.subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1767&p=7341&hilit=temp+sensor#p7341

Subaru's new updated headgasket that ends in 610. there are others if you do some research, tread carefully given how common these things are to blow headgaskets. get an ebay timing belt kit with all new pulleys and tensioner too - only $150-$200. you don't want those 15 year old pulleys and tensioners in there on an interference engine. none of them are in good shape for high mileage at this point IMO.

what he said above. at the second repair i probably would have just installed a new oil pump and be done with it on a such a new and highly valued vehicle and such a critical component since it's cheap. the crank seal is installed in the oil pump, so getting a new pump would solve any possible extraneous or abnormal issue like the oil pump casing is somehow compromised which leads to the seal not seating. here's one for $160 and it shows the seal that you're having problems with: http://www.garagespec.com/collections/subaru-oe/products/11mm-oil-pump-kit-subaru-oem-sti-wrx-ej20-ej25 if it happens again properly resealing the oil pump and checking those screws should do it. you could also opt for a new pump.

bolts up and plugs in just fine. may have a different final drive gear ratio, which is easily solved by also swapping in the rear differential - which will have the same final drive ratio as the trans. the only two gear ratios they could be in those year/models are 4.11 and 3.9. the legacy is a 4.11 and the impreza will either be a 3.9 or 4.11.... i wouldn't be surprised if the impreza is a 3.9 but i'm not sure .

i wouldn't use it if it really was tweaked, it's only plastic and aluminum. radiatorbarn is well known and popularly used. use the search function for "radiatorbarn" here or any other subaru or vehicle forum. 64 hits on here. another option is to google the part number/brand of the radiator if you want to try to save another buck. or check ebay.

he can use a GT, OBW, or SUS bumper. other Legacy bumpers are different but do bolt up and can be used if the grille is also swapped and foglight cutouts may differ.

make sure it's not leaking somewhere repairable - a hose, clamp, threaded insert. $81.43 shipped to your door: http://www.radiatorbarn.com/search.php?product=radiator

i've rebuild the calipers with no problems, replace the seals and you're golden. the kits are available at most stores and cheap. dragging brakes is likely just the pins seizing and needing cleaned/lubed. the pads can also hang in the metal clips, i like replacing them for this reason sometimes. the clips get corroded, dirty, etc.

wow. you have me wondering now as i believe mine has 2 rocker arms that fell out and maybe a 3rd as it had no compression. i've done a lot of these motors and always check those HLA's before proceeding after installing the cam carrier - i find it really hard to believe i didn't catch that right away. ....and it did run fine at first and got much worse - maybe they were poorly seated and just came off? i can hope. but you have me wondering. *** if i rotate the cam by hand that *might* show if the lifter is hanging open? ***

right on, exactly what i was thinking. definitely not worth the time....it's barely worth the time to pull the cam carrier. reading woodswagons brute force method was worth posting this question!

good car. timing components should be replaced - tensioner, pulleys, and belt. do that and these motors easily last another 100,000 miles with minor maintenance items. interference engine so if the belt breaks it'll likely bend valves, i'm currently repairing two broken belt Subaru's - a 99 and 03 - both had multiple bent valves. at nearly 10 years and that mileage the original tensioners and pulleys are not up to my standards to leave in there, i would plan on a complete timing belt job at some point even if the belt was replaced. the only "issue" they have is the headgasket issue - they leak externally at the bottom or rear of the engine, you should probably go look right now and see if it's currently leaking - it's not that unheard of for them to hit the market as soon as they show initial signs. the good news is it's not really an *issue* functionally speaking for a long time as long as it doesn't run low on oil or coolant (it can leak either).

if you can do an EJ22 you can do a DOHC, they're not hard at all. it's just lining up pulleys, if one slips out of place, put it back. get it right and install the belt, it's really nothing any more technically challenging.

LMAO! that's awesome, i knew someone had attempted this before! i suppose i'll just pull the case. are you serious - the valves sticking due to gas in the oil - then caused the rockers to fall out? makes me wonder if maybe that's what is happening here? was it the drivers side or passengers? i just assumed it was due to one falling out on install but now i wonder since it did run fine at first start up.....

if the cam slides out enough to get a rocker on - i assume the others would fall out.

you're golden - you can do them both if you can do one. the difference is a matter of seconds between the two in time and zero in complexity. maybe a bit more overwhelming for a first timer mentally but technically speaking it's the same job. if you've done a SOHC, nothing is stopping you from doing a DOHC timing belt.

if you can do the work yourself it's fairly simple to just swap in a positively known good used oil pump or a new one. if you want the car another significant length of time I go with a new oil pump, it's well worth it since I've seen a new pump solve this issue many times. harder decision when you have to pay a mechanic to do it. the owner/admin of the subaruxt.com forum had an XT6 that was ticking, he resealed it 3 times and it came back every time. i mailed him a pump - and it hasn't ticked since. he's got a thread about it (or multiple) on the xt forum and that has been common experience for me, that's why i mailed a new pump for his car....i figured it would work and it did. good luck.

should not be oil related. was the oil pump positively resealed with the engine work? it's never ticked before and has had regular oil changes? i would replace the oil pump next. my typical order of addressing this: 1. reseal the oil pump 2. replace the oil pump with a new one (sometimes i just skip step one so as to save time) i've never seen those two steps not cure this issue on a normal EA/ER engine so I've never had to go further except once but that was on a vehicle that was driven thousands of miles on a blown headgasket and run hot numerous times. it had two seized HLA's that would not compress in a vice. if steps 1 & 2 above didn't work next step would be to reseal the cam carriers and clean, rebuild, or replace the HLA's.

edited the title, mis-spoke. like you figured out tractorpole - i'm trying to get the rocket arm in place....would be awesome to compress that valve enough to squeeze it in. wishful thinking probably... i'm sure a few folks have tried this before.....who's out there!?

Well, who's tried it? Compress valve and slide the rocker arm in place over the valve and HLA? I can get the valve to compress but getting the screwdriver out of the way and evenly compressing the valve spring is another thing.

don't do it with a full tank of gas. annoying job...but not difficult. it seems like it should take 10 minutes and it doesn't - that's the annoying part. but it isn't a long or difficult job. plan on most of the screw/bolts shearing off when removing, they all do for me when they're rusted like they usually are when the pipe is also rusted and you're in the rust belt like me. ditch the cover when you're done, it just traps debris and moisture against the filler pipe.

if it's true that this started entirely after the timing belt change chances are really good that something happened during the timing belt install process to cause this. check the timing belt marks. the tensioner might be failing - when they fail and have too much play in them, they start bouncing and moving too much. if it's enough they'll make noise and "knock. if you remove the timing cover you can physically see it doing this. if it's doing that while driving maybe it can temporarily affect timing and cause issues. i haven't seen that before but i have seen the tensioners fail and have too much play in them so it seems plausible for the timing to be artificially *moved* as the tensioner moves. being an interference engine this should be checked very soon. i'm currently repairing a 99 Legacy and 2003 Forester with a load of bent valves due to timing jumping.

sweet. 9,300 feet, wow! we hunt around there in CO - that's up there dude. i have to drink a butt ton of water or i get headaches before we drive up there. doubt that's why it failed, but it doesn't really matter. they fail often enough that age and lack of grease is enough. the ujoint should allow plenty of articulation for slight changes, but who knows you got it taken care of.

hole in hose - replace it. seeping valve cover gaskets are no big deal - do them at the same time as the next spark plug change or if they leak too much oil - you start loosing a half a quart to a quart between oil changes or it starts to annoy you by hitting the exhaust and burning off or leaving spots in your driveway/garage. headgaskets - that's a huge job, hope it doesn't start leaking significantly. monitor oil and coolant levels, sounds like it's a very tiny amount and nothing to worry about. i've often wondered if i saw this on an H6 if i would put some of the coolant conditioner that subaru requires for the H4 in it...i think i probably would on my own vehicle as i really don't want to get into an H6 headgasket if i have too. two of my daily drivers have this motor. dirty overflow bottle means nothing, lots of older subarus get dirty reservoirs just based on time and use.

will it start at all? i'm not clicking the video. they can run terrible when you first start them as the system primes and HLA's bleed/fill up. they'll be noisy too and sound awful, some folks think the motors are hosed...run them for 10 miles and they smooth out. the beck arnley gaskets require retorquing the heads as specififed in the FSM.

it *should* come out, try wiggling it, twisting, various angles, and if the dipstick or cap or something like that is in the way, remove or loosen it. i just pulled a 99 EJ22 the other day and have it hanging in my garage, i'll try to peak at it.