idosubaru

I found some info here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swaybar-faq-134646.html it implies legacy GT's and Lsi's have 16mm. opposed forces verifies that. opposed forces will show (D=16), have to drill down for every single model/trim you're interested in comparing.

is there a list somewhere of swaybar sizes in various models? searched here and google and subaruoutback and got nothing. lots of swaybar threads but little info. i have a 96 LSi sedan

lots of low percentage axles out there no matter the store or price. MWE or reboot a Subaru axle are how i choose to avoid them. you got a good axle for now. it's not that every axle is bad, not even close. it's just that a high percentage (relatively speaking) have issues. i want near %100 success rate on a job like that, not %80...or whatever it is.

yep, same trans, different gearing. grab the rear diff to match. technically you can swap the front diffs to retain your original impreza gearing but that's a huge job and one most people avoid. you're fairly certain the trans is bad? If you wanted to try a fluid I'd ditch the lucas and use Auto Trans X. Typically additives aren't good, but it works wonders on the 99 era delayed engagement issue.

is it making any noise? i'd just reboot it and call it a day. or use one of your others. both my axle boots busted after i lifted my XT6 and drove it 4,000 miles to colorado. by the time i got back they were vibrating really bad (stuffing grease in at every gas stop) and making noise. rebooted with new grease and they're quiet and smooth as a whistle now for over a year. so...i'd rather have the original subaru joints in there than some cheap junk aftermarket. after market axle stuff isn't known for quality.

i'm on dial up so i can't listen. the only thing i'd check for is a failing timing belt tensioner. they can sound like rod knock and get louder with load. can be very mechanical sounding in nature, "tensioner" is not usually what you'd think it is the first time you hear one. if you pull the drivers side timing belt cover, the ones i've seen making a RAP RAP RAP noise will also have movement. watch the tensioner and it's noticeably moving/giving with the noise. the newer style tensioners suck for this reason. a mechanics stethoscope might reveal it without removing the cover.

i'd just reset them and see which come back. forester i picked up had a zillion codes, some weird ones, and it was also running hot due. cleared the codes, fixed the overheating and codes never returned. maybe just poor running, overheating, or sitting for long periods will trip codes that just need to be cleared, but maybe i'm making that up. car probably runs better than any others i've ever had....but maybe it's just lighter than legacy's which i'm used too.

get the timing components from ebay - importexperts. all seals/orings get from Subaru. there is no one-size-fits-all but that's fairly common notion around here.

i think you'll be pleasantly surprised it's the axle. now to figure out which one (if you replaced them both). if you have an old one - just swap one side and see if it goes away. if not, then swap the other side.

that's a mess. sorry to hear that on all counts. often you can have it "drivable" in just a couple hours. pull the bumper with a come along and pull the hood out too, bend the radiator support. in like 30 minutes you can have it pulled out enough to get the timing belts back to running again. getting it drivable usually isn't too bad. getting it perfect, that's another story. i've got ER27 parts, i'll even donate a few things to the cause if you decide to repair it.

i have a few XT ECU's if you want to let me know what you're after. this was a few years ago so i'm not sure what all i ended up with but i got a few XT ECU's at the time.

has an open front diff, so no limited slip. does turning it change anything - accelerating with the wheel all the way to the left and all the way to the right - what happens then? same exact noise or does it change? i'm thinking an axle or front diff would do this. given the CV issues previously i'd be checking into those a bit more. if it feels like it's on "one side" more than another then it's probably the axle. the front diff will seem more central. but if it's an inner axle joint going bad those are right next to the trans and may be hard to distinguish. have the axles ever been replaced? was it the inner or outer boot you replaced?

why are all these black cars and men in black suits and sunglasses following me?

just so you know, some procedures are hard to get right, this doesn't seem like one of them in my experience. they usually are straight by the book and simple. if it doesn't have homelink and you have a remote control garage consider this a chance to upgrade to the one with homelink, they're awesome.

you are correct - the ECU uses the CAS (crank angle sensor) in the distributor. so you have the SPFI version of the EA82. numbchux (username) has attempted some "conversions" of this sort, he should know or his threads should prove helpful.

copy that, thanks for clarifying that, that makes sense. i can't recall the specifics but folks have installed EA guts into EJ trans cases and/or the other way around - seems unlikely but would it be worth considering swapping the input shaft and front diff from an EA into the EJ trans?

nice job cranking out the timing belt job yourself! hopefully you get this figured out quick and simple. probably got the timing off. could even be just one tooth off on one side. also - EJ engines are notoriously sensitive to ignition components - so wires wouldn't surprise me either. i've seen brand new aftermarket wires cause cylinder misfires. if you replace, use Subaru only on those. but given the recent timing belt i'd start there. you can at the very least double check both cams by just removing the side timing belt covers - those are easy to remove and only take a couple minutes. you won't really be able to verify the crank sprocket but you can see if both cams are lined up properly. older vehicles have an alignment mark on the flexplate/flywheel too so you can check it under the throttle body through the bellhousing access hole, if you can do that with an EJ you might not have to remove the crank pulley and center timing cover to check that.

the "spacer" mentioned earlier is for the opposite swap of what you're doing, spacers are easy so that swap is easy - but you're going the opposite way so you'll need to trim that much rather than "add" to gain the proper clearance. so - cut your bellhousing back that same difference and start from there, is what he's telling you (i think).

wow that sucks. get a quality 6 point socket on those rear caliper bolts, they should come out. DO NOT turn them too much when they are tight, this generates heat and makes them more likely to shear. rotate a half turn - then go eat a sandwich - rotate another turn and go check your email - rotate another turn and go workout - rotate....you get the point, allow them time to cool down. lots of bolts shear off due to rust but those ones will usually come out if you go slow and approach it right. as for the tone ring - if it's usable just leave it, it'll be fine. they're not structural so if it's a little messed up don't worry about it, they'll work fine. don't even try to remove your ABS sensor, i can promise that's not going to come out if the rust is this bad. those bolts shear 100% of the time.

that's awesome!!! i mean in a ridiculous, funny, kind of way. just get the right size rotors, that's all you need. sounds like you're not sure what style calipers you have, so you'll need to verify. there are multiple dual piston calipers with various size rotors - but 276mm is by far the most common and seems to match the size you're coming up with somehow. great brake/rotor information here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85014

should be very obvious where a gallon of antifreeze is going, it would certainly leave a trace if it's leaking that much......seems like headgaskets are likely. how badly was it overheated before the headgasket job? i've heard of blocks cracking but that's extremely rare and would take some serious abuse.

from memory reddevil (username) did some great work supercharging his NA EJ engine. i'd check out his stuff, should be relevant to you.

definitely bolts right in, it's the same in those regards. some 98's had external screw on trans oil filters, so you might be in for a surprise with that.

Mine was so hard to tell, it was kind of annoying because i didn't want to guess. The water hose test, the infrared temp gun was inconclusive to me....nothing set it apart for certain. I think the most convincing thing was how consistent it was. It would do the exact same thing every single time...i just knew it was going to overheat, when, and how long it'd take. Using A/C or driving up hills or accelerating just made it happen faster. and hotter days it'd happen quicker than colder days (like at night). i've never seen EJ headgaskets be that predictable....not saying it's not possible but all the EJ headgaskets i've seen have been more variable. still a very unquantitative measure and i was never fully convinced until the new rad solved it.

And the wiring is interchangable if it's off - just unscrew it from the base and swap plug/wires with the original. I had to do that to mine.