idosubaru

fronts turn in, you got it. if you ever need to rebuild they are really easy. pull the piston out, replace one orings around the piston then the boot/clip and you're done. some newer ones don't even use a clip so two parts to rebuild.

hopefully someone that's done it can reply. in general floor boards can get extremely hot, i've been in vehicles before that you couldn't ride in barefoot they would get so hot because the folks had removed all the carpeting and nothing was stock about the vehicle, none were subarus but the principles are similar. that being said i'm fairly certain i've removed all the heat shields on subaru's before with no issues. but can't say for certain i've removed that one, pretty sure I have though. I don't even think the older ones all have that heat shield either. Heat shields are really annoying.

scroll to the bottom left of the screen - similar threads shows tons of threads asking the same question. i'm with GD - the better option for some people may be to replace all or only the pulleys that spin freely or are notably bad with Subaru OEM if the kits don't look appetizing. at the same time the kits are cheap and certainly better than 10+ year old originals that are mostly devoid of grease.

i'm assuming the OBW is EJ25. i'm not positive but my guess is that it will work. for it to work you'll likely need to swap the cam pulleys and possibly crank sprocket from the EJ25 onto the EJ22.

I haven't yet. i have the sika-flex marine grade adhesive sealant recommended by others and new rear bushings to try someday. currently running coil overs and it sits perfectly level so not too worried about it. the air rides nicer though. i have crappy 14" wheels with snow tires on it now. i have an assortment of 16" Subaru wheels to put on it soon.

it's the aftermarket axles. go with Subaru or MWE. aftermarkets are only worth it if your time rich. you can read all day long similar threads with all sorts of issues - vibrations, clicking, noises, shimmy, grease leaking, exploding to pieces. the quality isn't there.

ldew is sending me a 1996 non-EGR impreza automatic EJ22 ECU. Go man, thanks!! I have a 96 Legacy swapped from EGR EJ25 to a non EGR engine with an intake from a non-EGR 97 Impreza Automatic. Runs fine but I have check engine lights because of the EGR to non-EGR swap. So - who thinks this is going to work just by swapping ECU's? I'm wondering if there's any differences to consider? The intake and ECU are both from non-EGR automatics - so seems the only possible difference could be the main body harness right?

I'm not sure why I missed it the first go around but if the connectors are the same I say go for it. Glad it worked and thanks for the follow up.

happens all the time with aftermarket axles. you'll see thread after thread just like yours about a new axle having issues. they have more issues down the road too, not just out of the box. so yeah the next one will be good but down the road and when you own future vehicles it's not a bad idea to consider a 100% solution like rebooting Subaru axles or MWE.

Sweet Larry - really, you found a 96 Impreza automatic without EGR? Hopefully it wasn't deleted, LOL! Thanks for the info and I'll take it, I PM'ed you.

well, that's my small lift kit....NOT! no way, that's not mine. mine is only 2" and everything is stock XT6 (even suspension) and Subaru wheels - that car is way beefier and built than that, but it was built by a board member here. his recommendations for new rack are a good one.

No it doesn't matter if axles are different. There's a few simpler things to check like GD mentioned but if they aren't Subaru or MWE axles then that's probably your problem. Aftermarket axles suck by and large.

with that many electrical problems it's either long term neglect or something related. what year is the car, how many miles, overall condition? often times with an older car it's just multiple problems that have been ignored over the years, they start happening more frequently and *seem* related, but aren't. that would be my guess but we don't have much info yet either. i'd start by trying to just trouble shoot each one independently. ABS codes can be read easily, just find the threads detailing how to do that. a little reading and searching will pay off in understanding how it all works, but it's really simple once you read and then try. ground one pin and the ABS light blinks the code. fix that and see if the light goes away. it's usually a sensor, they wear or get covered with debris. in around 96 they had some funky relay issues as well, but that usually has incessant clicking and other stuff associated with it.

agreed, you have nothing to worry about. if you have an actual problem let us know, but driving through water is no big deal. these things get off roaded, driven in some very harsh environments and pounded with some stout snow all the time. general daily driving through some puddles is nothing. these are AWD cars that see quite a bit more use and play than FWD counterparts. at most - some of the evaporating water may have scared you, looked bad, or might possibly cause a cylinder misfire. if it does it just means the problem is with the car, not the puddles - meaning you need a tune up like plugs and wires.

if it ends up not working you could upgrade. the newer ones have compass, temperature, auto-dimming, and my favorite feature is it has 3 or 4 buttons you can program to whatever you want. garage door openers, lights, etc. the temp feature needs a sensor installed so that's a bit of work but all the rest just need power, very simple. i installed one in my 02 OBW, which was easy since it was already powered/auto dimming/compass style, i just upgraded to the garage door opening buttons. didn't bother with the temp gauge since it's a bunch of work and it already has an in cabin/outside temp indicator.

Yeah that is good work and turn around, good job and thanks for following up.

People replace rotors too quickly. Look for a place that turns rotors, they do mine for $12-$15 a piece. Well worth it and it's the easy and cheap way to retain Subaru OEM rotors. Otherwise I'm not that intent on always using Subaru pads and rotors. Late model EJ vehicles warp rotors frequently, so I'm not that convinced that Subaru rotors are as good as they used to be. There's another thread recently about warping rotors - GD and I were talking about it a lot there. I usually try and buy better brake stuff but I've never had a problem with the cheap stuff on the older Subaru's, never really tried it on newer stuff that I can remember.

If you see a 95-98 legacy (legacy can be up to 99) or impreza automatic without EGR for $100 or less I'll take it for sure. I've only ever seen one, but maybe you'll get lucky? Probably take it if it's more than that too, but I'm not paying insurance prices "$500".

looks like a fairly #*!&*&*$&$ design, not that i'm surprised with all the other goofy problems from this thing. the exhaust seems very rigid - no wonder they need that flex pipe. good call on the clamps - i'm betting they'll take a beating, but we might try it since it's cheap. and the pipes right there aren't that bad except for the flex joint.

I'm not good with welding and have no clue how to go about even using it or setting it up. As far as I know mine didn't come with any options of a gas kit when I bought it, but I have no idea how it works so don't know if that matters. I've welded exhaust with it before but it was ugly as crap with lots of slag and it was only my car. are there any "clamps" that work? Like get a clamp and seal the nuts out of it?

Yeah it's not worth much, they'll be very hard pressed to get more than $1,000 for that car. The rear bumper can come off any 1988+ XT or XT6. Air suspension should be converted to coil overs any way so I don't consider that a big deal.

ATF shouldn't ruin it. More than likely it was leaking before, whinning before and that necessitated the addition of the ATF. It's not supposed to be used but enough folks have gotten away with it that I wouldn't say "Your system is hosed". If it's leaking - at least take a cursory glance to see where the leak is. Blindly dumping fluid in, regardless of how one feels ideologically about stop leak products, is still just a horrible idea. If it's leaking - fix the leak or at least look and see where it's leaking. Power steering fluid leaks are easy to find. There's a 50 cent hose coming out of the pump, that is very common to leak. Fix it. It's just regular automotive hose (like for transmission lines) and clamps. Generic stuff available at any auto parts store. The other place it might leak is at the tie rods/rack boots. If it's leaking there then you'll need to replace the rack or try your hand at some power steering stop leak. The seals at those spots are the only leaks that stop leak has a chance to slow down or stop. Not that I recommend it, but if you're going to replace it anyway I'd give it whirl. Steering racks are actually not hard to replace either, so don't sweat it if the rack is leaking and you want to replace it. Used ones are easy enough to find or recently new XT racks have been popping up on ebay for next to nothing.

yep all that sounds normal...for that half year 1987.5 XT Turbo. I have the same thing but in the manual form. check out subaruxt.com for your XT specific needs.

Cheapest car is typically the one you own. If it seems good for another 100,000 miles then it's probably worth fixing. If the head gaskets have never been replaced that sucks though. Any 10-15 year old car is going to have issues. Stuff like tires are rather benign and easily inspected when bought. $3,000 is insanely high though for a car with a bad clutch. Unless you find a really anxious person that wants that exact car it'll probably take a long time to get that much for it, if ever. You'll always get better return selling a car that's running. Is he sure the clutch is shot? These things have notorious issues with the slave cylinders and hoses for the hydraulic clutches. Make sure he checks those first. I got at 97 Legacy GT for $1,500. In mint condition and that was 3 years ago. 80,000 miles, mint condition, new tires, no rust, needed head gaskets. head gasket job is about $1,500 and clutch job is $1,000-$1,500 so the work needed was about the same. I would have never paid that much except for the low mileage and excellent condition I knew it would flip easily.

install the rear O2 and see what happens? do you just have an open hole there right now and the sensor isn't installed? at 12mpg you're loosing far more than the cost to repair it right, so i'd do whatever you need to. should be able to weld an aftermarket converter in (they're much cheaper).