idosubaru

Indeed, it is a waste of time. The thing in the pan isn't even a "filter". It's only a mesh screen. If the screen was clogged enough to cause problems then your transmission is probably hosed anyway - significantly warn or damaged parts. So yeah, take a lesson from the rest of us that didn't know when we did it and save yourself the time and hassle!

GD - exactly that is the part that is leaking. I found some on ebay for $20 and hopefully they won't be stainless. Any way to determine the right diameter before we cut it? Are there any clamps we could use instead of welding? I'm not seeing any way I could weld this. How does a shop do it? Do they lower the exhaust, then weld? Or do they have the ability to weld it with the exhaust still in place? The top portion doesn't look accessible at all. But my cheap wire feed welder and lack of skills won't do this job so i guess it doesn't matter.

A friend of mine has a 98 A4 6 cylinder Audi. Each header has a 3 inch portion of flex pipe that is leaking. The car isn't worth the insane amounts of money for replacing the exhaust. Not sure if it's been worked on before but the exhaust from the engine looks like an enormously long piece? I told him to take it to a shop since I'm not set up or good with my welder. And they should be able to weld something in - they quoted him $1,600!??! He doesn't want to put that into this car. Is it possible to weld in a section of flex pipe or does that only come on existing exhausts? I've never seen any for sale but never looked either.

no on the ghostwalking. as long as both have EGR then the swap will be straight forward and simple, they are the same engines.

matter of oppinion. some folks say no, some folks say yes, and some folks say they like the low end torque of the EJ22 better than the benefits of the EJ25? personally i say get what you want in terms of reliability and cost. to me if i want performance the difference between an EJ25 and EJ22 isn't enough since i'd actually want something that's fast, not just 20 more hp. but personal preference reigns supreme here. the EJ22 can be cost effective. and you can end up with a non interference motor that is cheaper to maintain and more reliable - and then fix and sell your EJ25 for more than you pay for the EJ22. or just sell the Ej25 outright and let someone else fix it, they're not hard to sell since they have far more issues than EJ22. it can be free almost if your cards play out well. i mean it's a hassle and i'd just fix the EJ25, i'm just saying it's personal preference since there's all sorts of dynamics going on.

he said (or edited) Outback, so that's EJ25.

Doors are really easy to swap out. I pulled all 4 off a Legacy not too long ago, very easy. It's like 4 bolts and a pin and unplug the wiring harness. I've never actually had help so it's possible to remove and install yourself, that's how I've always done it. But man is it a wrestling match, having a help to get the last bolt off or first in would be really nice as they are awkward being so big. I believe at least for the rears that the hinges are bolted on and then the door bolts to the hinge - so if for some reason you can't get the bolts off the body off - just unbolt it from the hinge. I remember I had to do that once for some reason. No for the impreza. The 98 Legacy is what you'll want. Any 95-99 Legacy doors (see notes below about 95/96) - sedan, wagon, whatever, all Legacy and OBW's are the same DOOR. The only differences are the interior panels and cladding - so for that you'd want OBW stuff if you're trying to buy matching parts. 95 and 96 doors are the same but sometimes i think they lack the wiring if you have heated mirrors, the interior lights, or possibly that additional "lock/unlock" button the passengers side door panel. But otherwise they're the same base part. Obviously you don't want brighton wagons as they have crank handles.

If the engine is still good and the motor wasn't cooked there's not too much reason to not expect another 100,000 miles out of a job that's done right. Some low percentage chance of rod bearings, but it's low. At this point that would be the concern, done right you're not likely to have a head gasket issue again. You're looking for a non EJ22 swap? EJ22 (or EJ18 - same thing/same swap essentially) is the only easy swap. Beyond that all other motors are the same - you're going to need wiring, computer, completely redoing things so to speak. In that case you can install whatever you want, like a 350 V8 or tractor engine, diesel, etc. That just depends what kind of custom work and cost you're comfortable with.

nice hit guys, that's awesome! thanks for sharing.

AH! at least you caught it and hopefully all is well. this might not be the filters fault? rock, salt, debris, something scraping the oil filter could cause an easy access point for salt, water, and rust to set in. if it was the filters fault i would still be lenient. there's no way to produce, package, ship, and sell a product without some percentage of risk. it's impossible....let us resist the urge to poke fun of toyota right now if this happened to me once i wouldn't write them off. unless it was a FRAM, but i've already written them off

Failures are not predictable and one failure doesn't mean the next will happen the same way. So there's no way to stop just before it fails except by luck. You should have been an engineer, going around thinking everything is predictable, repeatable, zeroes and ones, and black and white Repair it. If you're going to repair it then it doesn't much matter if you get another 7,000 or 1,000 miles out of the bad one - the next transmission will likely outlast all sorts of other things on the car. I've had and seen front diff failure. There are variations in the failure mode and what happens from there but in general stuck starts breaking, the noise will turn into incessantly loud grinding, and then it'll lock up. The TCU begins to try and compensate for the "lost traction" by varying the AWD output. Once it gets really bad the car will not go anywhere...then the rears wheels kick in, car lurches...then slows again until the rear wheels kick in again...etc. If it's not too bad and you sort of "baby" it up to speed and keep moving - sometimes. Once it's bad you're not really going anywhere. And they can completely lock up too. If you're that set on maximizing your mileage on this transmission then your next option, which I would consider a fun exercise would be transforming it into a RWD vehicle. Remove the front axles (and the load from the front diff) and cut your Duty C Solenoid wire. That will "lock" the rear transfer clutches and you'll have RWD. I've done it, very simple and easy to go back to AWD - install axles and repair one wire. Front axles are notorious for noises too - particularly if they've ever been replaced and are any aftermarket brand. Aftermarket axles are just about the poorest replacement part you can put on a Subaru in terms of reliability and quality. Sounds like you're fairly confident it's the front diff. If you plan on repairing it, just get a used transmission since these transaxle units are a combined front diff/trans assembly. The transmissions don't fail that often and getting a used one is easy. Find one from a wreck and you're good to go. Since they dont' fail often that means demand is low and they're easy to find cheap, particularly in Subaru rich areas.

yep, standard 1/2" drive is all you need. remove the top fill plug first since you don't want to drain the fluid and find out the top one won't come out.

what is there, just straight pipe? what condition is it in? pic's of the existing cat pipe section? where are you located roughly? there's an XT6 dedicated forum as well at subaruxt.com, join us over there for XT specific needs or post in the parts wanted forum. rough location might help since some people arent' going to ship big stuff like this.

If this is a repeat failure then it wasn't properly done or the block is hosed. Properly done means Subaru only on the headgasket (for this engine), machined the heads, and cleaned the block and torqued properly. If all of that was done they should hold. There are examples of blocks that can't hold a new gasket because of deformity of the block. It's rare, I haven't seen it happen, and probably happens in cases of really bad overheating. There are some Subaru dealers that replace engines rather than do head gasket jobs due to this possibility. It's overkill but it's dealers that have been burned - charge $1,500 for a repair that doesn't work. That doesn't make a happy customer. These things overheat if not properly bled, so make sure that's been done properly. New radiator cap and Subaru only thermostat would be nice to make sure as well. In stock form these rarely fail compression tests even when the headgaskets start to fail, so in that case a compression test isn't likely to tell you much. but being a replacement job it's probably more likely to be different than usual. replacing the head bolts is not your issue, they aren't replaced in Subarus. he's not wrong since other engines require it, but he's wrong about Subarus. no need to replace the seals you replaced. you'll only repair/replace things specifically head gasket related, like the head gasket.

97 Impreza shows 3 different ECU's for the EJ22 and it's not due to Auto verses manual trans. 22611-AC830 22611-AC831 22611-AD400 I'm wondering what the difference is and if this could be a "non-EGR" verses "EGR" difference? Myself and at least one other member are in the search for the extremely elusive Automatic non-EGR ECU set up.

if it's really bad i've never even bothered to install a key, they actually aren't necessary. i'm not saying i recommend that and i realize the importance of a key - but if you know what you're doing it's not worth expensive repairs or replacing an engine when this works. it's an iron crankshaft and enormous iron 22mm bolt, i've never stripped one with my 3 foot pipe put over my socket wrench. do that and it's not coming off, i've never even used locktite.

Pretty sure he just had a typo there, he knows. 95 is dual port. 96+ is single port. Damaged crankshaft should be repaired, not replace the entire engine. I've fixed a few in my garage. The keys I believe aren't even necessary if you bolt the snot out of the crank pulley, I've done it a bunch of times, but I know what i'm doing, not trying to just turn, flip, make a quick buck. A competent shop can repair it. Worst case, take the entire engine to a machine shop, they can do anything with metal and will certainly repair it for less than the cost of another engine. An EJ18 will work as well in your 95 legacy. My EJ18 swapped legacy does fine in flat lands. The mountains make it downshift a lot but it would be great in Florida if you're not worried about performance. An EJ25 would be plug and play too.

Try what you already tried but put a tape in the tape player. Maybe a blank one or one with no tape, just so it "thinks" or triggers it into "tape mode". This might help testing as well. Test voltages/signals with tape in and with tape out to find your money maker. The FM transmitters that plug in (NOT the wireless ones that are so common) are much better. The wireless ones are just easy, but obviously you can get your hands dirty. You just give it switched power and that's it, it plugs into the antenna wires. They are much better than the wireless kind.

Yes. Like they touched on it's difficult to get a feel for anything because many are still under warranty or worth enough that repairs don't have as much of a voice. I think Subaru even redesigned the headgasket (again) for the 2.5 around 2010 or something? Could be a block or head change but I wouldn't be surprised, if it's true, that it's related to quality control.

he can choose preference on drums. i'm not a fan of them but in good condition they do last longer and are cheaper. if you ever do have to replace them it's not likely you'll ever have to again. with discs you're not entirely avoiding drum brakes since all rear disc EJ's have rear drums brakes as well. they have adjustments, replacements, and stick as well. simple, but it's there.

Have the bumper checked carefully. Barely noticeable stuff now might mean peeling and flaking in two years or unsealed lenses, that would be annoying. Also the bumpers are multi-part pieces so if foam or something underneath needs replaced best to do it now and get it back to top notch in case you're in an accident again so it can do it's job, even if it looks fine. Hope you're okay too. Much of the time people are just itching for money and drugs and that's the sad states of affairs we're in today - but there is a tiny percentage of truth in that some pains can come a few days later so be sure you're okay as chronic stuff is a terrible thing to deal with. It's usually abused but it can happen, so while I commend you for doing the right thing and not immediately looking up a lawyer - don't hose yourself either.

There's no definitive answer to this question. Some folks will swear this needs to be an OEM Subaru part, others say they got brand XYZ with no problems. The answers will depend on who decides to reply. You get what you pay for applies but there's still a gray area and comes down to how you view risk, money, time, etc. Have you checked the online Subaru vendors - the aftermarkets may not be much cheaper, if at all, then those. Local dealers will often match those online prices (mine does). Follow the installation directions carefully and clean up the block/bolt.

The brightons are annoying if you like extras like power windows, more options, etc. They do come with the more reliable EJ22. Some options from the OBW can easily be bolted on to the Brighton. Seats, struts (for more groun clearance), wheels, and stereo are easy to upgrade. It's not all that hard to put a tach in either. Power windows and locks aren't quite as simple. With a decent set of Subaru alloy wheels they look much nicer.

I talked to him offline and he's not interested in those Ebay kits for interesting dynamics that don't matter - but the fact is those are off the table for this situation. Subaru only pulleys.

Ah hah you mentioned "bearings" in the first post, so that's confusing. If you're looking for a Subaru supplier of the actual parts, you're not going to find any. That's a Subaru only item. The online Subaru vendors have cheaper than dealer prices, you can search for those here as they're mentioned all the time. But the local dealers, particularly if you have a good relationship with them, have always matched those prices for me. They're giving those prices to all the local shops and mechanics anyway, so it's no big deal to them. The Ebay kits are the only other option but they do differ from the Subaru pulleys a bit. Those same kits are available elsewhere, but you won't find the actual Subaru parts for sale. The shop did the right thing as far as keeping the car long term. Normally you don't need to replace everything, but on an interference engine you don't want to take a chance since it'll cause internal engine damage if anything fails. The only cheap solutions are the ebay kits or not replacing the pulleys and inspecting them once or twice between belt changes. Both of those don't appear to be options for you.