idosubaru

you need to find out which seal it is. how can we tell you without seeing the car? need to find where the leak is coming from, all of the ones listed below can blow back, drain back, drip back towards the same places. so where you see the oil dripping or ending up tells us very little. there's sorts of places for oil leaks to happen. valve covers are extremely common to leak and brittle by now. crank seal, cam seal, cam orings, oil pump. replace your PCV valve, if it's plugged up that might relieve the pressure and help.

oh sweet, yes you found a justy finally, nice hit nipper! yeah i'd do what JCE says. those plugs tend to quit working and get dirty fairly easily so keeping them hidden is a big plus to keep them out of the elements. i have no idea what the EGR piece is you and I talked about last week by the way.

definitely. hubs don't vary between manual/auto. the main thing to pay attention to is ABS. ABS hubs have the proper mounting for the ABS sensor but are otherwise the same. So you can install an ABS hub on a non-ABS car (you just have an empty unused hole) but you can't install a non ABS rear hub on an ABS car. Well you probably could if you drill the boss out and drill and tap the bolt hole for the retaining bolt.

I *thought* NASIOC had one, have you checked over there? There's not much too it really. Just have a good pair of circlip pliers to remove the clips and zillions of rags, it's simple enough to do but a terrible mess. I have refused to do them for years because of how messy they are and finally did my first one a couple months ago, it was easy.

You don't replace head bolts on Subaru engines, they're not TTY (Torque to Yield) bolts. Google that if you're not familiiar with different style head bolts. I would not use the Fel Pro gaskets for this motor. Some Subaru motors they are better - this is not one of them. Use the Subaru OEM gasket here. Frankly I'd go Subaru on all the seals too. There's hardly any money to be saved and aftermarkets are known to leak from time to time by quite a few people here. At the very least make sure the rear main seal is Subaru OEM since that's the on that's most problematic and engine has to come out to replace it. Ebay has timing belt kits for around $189 i think - complete with belt and pulleys. The 2000 EJ25's were subject to a 100,000 mile extended head gasket warranty. It's likely you're out of date but if you're still under mileage it would be worth a visit to the dealer to entertain getting this fixed for free or possibly a cut rate. Dealers have done them past the 100k mark before, though maybe at cut rates, parts only, etc. Woah Holland, like the other side of the world, huh? I have some boxes in my trunk that I'm shipping over there!

i'd just leave it and do the work with it in place, won't make that much difference. but if you want to rip it off, it comes off very easily.

Gotcha, I didn't know all the older stuff was different than XT6's.

If it's a good deal then whatever. But I wouldn't assume anything either. The 2000 EJ25's have head gasket issues too. They are actually much less troublesome though as they don't cause immediate overheating and leave you stranded. They can essentially last a very long time by just adding coolant. Eventually they'll start leaking oil too...then you're adding coolant and oil but you can go tens of thousands of miles like that after they start and they don't leak much when they start. That being said, a private seller is a much better option. Then you know how many owners, previous maintenance, etc. You'll get a much better car that way and often you can get a good deal. Just find one with a blown motor for cheap and fix it. Probably the same price as any used car dealer you'll find and you get a better deal. They're easy to find for $2,000 or less with a bad engine/trans - fix it for $1,000-$2,000 and you've got a great vehicle for not much cash and probably well under 200k. And yes - it's an interference engine - at 200,000 miles it should have the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and pulleys all replaced at that mileage. That's like $1,000+ in work at the dealer.

Scroll to the bottom left of the screen right now without clicking on anything. You'll see another thread titled exactly the same as yours. There's quite a few of them as this is asked and discussed all the time. Pull the engine. Pulling the transmission is the *quickest* way (in terms of possibilities)...but it rarely is in practice! If you know what you're doing and have good tools and work space it comes out quicker than an engine. But working under the car and reinstalling is a pain if you're not familiar/comfortable with it. And like they said - if you're just doing a clutch then the engine doesn't evne need to come out.

pretty sure there's already some good info on here about doing timing belts. they're fairly simple too. remove everything to get at them, replace, and reinstall. the only tricky part with EA82 is alignment and that's all covered here. which EA82 are you working on, the PCV valve might be in various locations. on the MPFI EA82 on the XT's they're super easy to replace. Remove hose clamp. Remove hose. Remove PCV. Not sure if SPFI, turbo's, etc are harder to get too?

yeah tstat needs to be Subaru, the aftermarkets are flimsy. there's a special vent-release cap you can install on the radiator to keep it from pressurizing and overheating. it'll at least allow you to drive the car without overheating for quite some time and no worries about being stranded.

This is for an XT6 but I imagine most soobs are similar? The nozzles for the windshield squirters seem difficult to align and stay that way. Never worried about it much before but with all the coal mining and trucks around here in the mountains the roads are unbelievably dirty and it's almost a necessity to have them working well.

as far as timing components the motors you're talking about don't have any significant differences. same basic set up and mileages. DOHC engines weren't produced after 2000 so if you ordered a 2005 then you should not have gotten a DOHC belt. 1996-1999 (depending on model) is DOHC. 2000+ is SOHC. 99 was the only year both were offered in different models. So again - if you ordered 2005 there's no way you should have gotten a DOHC belt for an NA SOHC EJ25. EJ water pumps are fairly robust. If it's in good condition and being so new then i'd have no problem leaving the original water pump. I'd probably recommend doing the next timing belt early - like 175,000 or 180,000 to be safe and give a chance to inspect the water pump, tensioner, and idlers. That being said a new pump isn't a terrible idea. You're preventing like 0.05% risk, there's no way to quantify whether you should do that or not in terms of black and white. If it's leaking coolant it's probably an external slow seaping out the rear of the block, look at it's back side for sides of very slow leaking.

Yep, that's it the bottom threaded part threads into the rear of the head like i mentioned above. If you have the old intake like you said - you should be able to look at that pipe right? Or do you not have that pipe any more? If you still have the old engine you could theoretically swap heads on that one side to install a head with an EGR port. You could possibly drill/tap it out with a right angle drill or right angle drill attachment. I've used those before to do drilling/tapping on the front of the engine, so it can e done on the rear too. Be nice to have an EGR equipped head to look at though and get right. Otherwise looks like there should be plenty of room to work with back there.

no i think that plug you're looking at is the coolant passage drain plug. the EGR pipe fits on the rear of the engine, not the bottom of the engine where you're taking pictures. like i said - there should not be a plug there, it's not going to be that easy unless you're really lucky.

i don't know answers to any of your questions - but some of the huge vendors on ebay will piece together kits for you if you call and ask them. some of us do it for timing belt kits "I'd like these two style pulleys with an idler gear and tensioner" - eventhough none of their pre-packaged kits are like that. eventhough this is across different styles, once you figure out what combination you want it might be worth a call to see if they can do the same with clutch parts since you're looking at EA, ER, and EJ stuff. i think the import experts might be one of them, i can't ever remember their names. folks like davebugs has mentioned it several times in threads regarding timing components.

That makes sense the outback and legacy mounts may differ - since the outback uses spacers for the "lift". Typically you just keep the mount with the vehicle so it's easy as pie. But your first posts didn't say auto to manual swap so that's where I got lost. I was just thinking of a straight swap - remove one, install another. "Conversion" might be more accurate, but I probably would have read right over that The driveshaft differences are true of all Subaru's going back to the mid 80's EA82 and ER stuff. Rear half of shaft is the same, front half is where the length differs since the auto trans are longer.

This car isn't worth the money for a transmission rebuild. And it's really not necessary since you shouldn't have a problem finding a good unit somewhere. Subaru transmissions are easy enough to find that I don't think a rebuild is a good option on any automatic subaru to be honest with you. Seems like you said it's only a FWD which I believe means you could use a turbo transmission if you were really trying to find the cheapest transmission possible, by using the turbo axles or inner joints. The trans failed due to loss of diff gear oil, best to keep an eye on fluids in the future.

oh nice hit, so the ID of the seal has some built in tolerance to it. But since the crank is scored and the seal no longer touches the crank - what seals between the sleeve and the crank? Or am I seeing it wrong? It's just metal on metal right? Is it just because the sleeve is long and covers up the imperfections? That's a much simpler process than I thought it was. Makes me less worried about future seal pulling zzz:lol:

Woah crack that's awesome. So the sleeve goes around the crank. What seals bewteen the sleeve and the crank? Thanks for the pic's, that's awesome.

The EGR pipe has a pipe fitting on the end that threads into the back of the drivers side head - that plug you refer too no doubt. it's probably theoretically possible to drill and tap that area for the pipe, though I've never heard of anyone doing that. i doubt it's just a plug, it's probably a boss - an area intended to be drilled and tapped for those engines requiring EGR. in other words the foundry doesn't make "EGR heads" and "Non EGR heads" - they just make one head which gets machined appropriately after the foundry creates them. so yes - the heads are identical and one can be "turned into" another. my guess is it's drilling and tapping though, not just removing a plug. i've never seen any with just a plug, it's always been untouched metal. but if youre lucky and have a plug - post a picture that would be awesome.

thermostat and radiator cap are cheap things to make sure are good. but there's a high chance of it being a head gasket. if it fails the HC test then they're bad. if it passes it, they can still be bad. that's probably rare, but I've seen it happen. older cars have a screw on the passengers side of the radiator to bleed air when burping.

i must be missing something, maybe you can describe the differences you're referring to? "other style", i'm not sure what you mean. i'd swap automatic transmissions without much regard to mounts. i've never thought about it and never had an issue with swaps. at most - if the mounts were different just install your originals on the new transmission?

The ABS works the entire brake system - it doesn't have the ability in this car to control one brake caliper any differently than the others. So it sounds to me like it's not ABS related and is more likely something from the caliper - back to where it joins another line. So caliper, hose, or fitting/valve - i'm not sure what resides bewteen the calipers and MC or ABS unit in the engine bay. If you suspect ABS issues you can just pull the fuse on the ABS and your brakes will act like any car without ABS. But I dont' think that's necessary here as it doesnt' sound like it's caused by the ABS.

they might not honor the lower prices locally, but it's worth a shot to ask. I think if you go in like you know what your'e talking about verses look like you're trying to save a buck you'll have the best odds but it's certainly up to the dealer. I imagine in high volume subaru areas it's more likely as they're used to it - giving discounts to lots of local garages.