idosubaru

No - that's entirely different and only subject to a limited year and vehicle. Well covered on the Subaruoutback forum if you want more info.

All Impreza models don't have the same engine. All years of Imprezas don't offer the same motor - so the usual vehicle/year would help. I'm assuming it's an EJ22. Those are easily done in the car. EJ25's - particularly the DOHC are particularly annoying and not straight forward, they require some trickery. So if it's an appropriate year Impreza RS it won't be nearly as straight forward.

to complete or acceleration or top speed?

Oh man, like our 02 OBW - is that what you call that. It is crazy how different each vehicle is. It sort of just wants to lunge to the sides in really deep slushy stuff. Like it's getting pulled sort of...

Interesting. Are they Subaru wires?

Most likely ignition wires. Use Subaru only on this part for this engine. If the dealer replaced the plugs because of this issue I'm very surprised. They of all people should know it's usually the wires on these engines. If they've never been replaced or are not Subaru wires then there's a really good chance it's wires. 134,000 is a lot of miles out of ignition wires for these motors.

No, timing belts have to come off. Good time to just pick up an ebay kit for $60 and replace those and all the pulleys which are no doubt in well below average shape. The good news is that besides dorking with the covers the timing belts are really easy. Many of us just bust the timing covers off and don't even reinstall them. Makes replacing a timing belt take 20 minutes and you get constant access/checking of the belt/pulleys. Typically a reseal will fix it since it's the seals/orings that go bad, not the pump. In some cases a new pump is needed just because the old one won't keep the oring seated i believe.

Oh crack I think that's what I used. Mine is a plumbers wrench of some sort, not exactly that same thing, but close. Maybe that's why I had no problems? As to new racks being expensive - used is the way to go. Subaru racks very rarely fail - that's why there are thousands of them for sale in junk yards, there's no demand. They're so easy to replace that even if you had to do it two times it would be way cheaper. But two failures would be extremely unlikely.

Yeah unfortunately it's probably normal. If you're driving through some thick slush/snow, it tends to grab and push the car around too. If you're talking about on packed snow, just riding on top of it then the tires probably just aren't good snow tires. There's no substitute for good snows or even studded tires if you have serious snow to drive through. If it's rare then you'll just have to sacrifice the lower snow traction of all season tires. And "new tires" are not all created equal - just use some of the old Bridgestone RE92s that used to come on Subaru's, they're rather poor in the snow for an AWD Subaru that's very common in rough climates markets. It's not alignment, I can promise you that. For that matter, save your money from here on out. Alignments are oversold and unnecessary. I listened to a guy in the alignment industry years ago who said never to get an alignment until I see uneven tire wear - easy on Subarus since I rotate tires often. I've never paid for an alignment in like a decade. I got the first one last year when I rebuilt a suspension and forgot to mark it, but that's my own fault. Don't know about other makes but for normal daily drivers Subarus don't really loose alignment easily at all. If they do - something else is wrong. I'm driving 20+ year old XT6's and they wear perfectly normal.

bell housing doesn't matter. you can essentially bolt up any EJ18, EJ22, EJ25, EG33, EZ30, EZ36, EJ22T....for that matter you can get adapter plates to bolt up anything that isn't a direct bolt on. if you're doing a 6 speed swap then there's nothing stopping you from using an adapter plate. are you really going to be doing this?

there are VIN decoders online - do a search for VIN decoders for a Subaru. cars101.com offers all your Subaru needs as well. you'd also know all you need to know by asking here - what year/make do you have and we can tell you what you got, down to which bolts on the engine are 8, 10, 12, 14, and 17 mm if we had too

I have another one to do on my 02 OBW H6 so I'll be sure to have all this in mind. I've didn't have any problems tightening. Or my memory is bad, both equally plausible . Can't recall what tools I used.

I've done a few inner tie rods and have never had a problem maintaining alignment or getting them tight and it's fairly common DIY job. The biggest pain I've had is installing the boots! If you're comfortable around mechanic work this isn't that hard to attempt. If you notice abnormal tire wear with your next rotation you can then have it aligned. I can't picture why it would be hard to get them tight, do you recall what was in the way? Wondering if maybe one side is different from another?

What he said - inner tie rods are really easy to replace. No special tools needed.

Sweet that worked, thanks guys. Just popped the cap and tightened the 14mm nut. Don't get much easier than that. I'll try and remember to pull the arm off and check the splines when it's warm or I get power back some week in the future.

Google for magnecor lists a number of suppliers of Magnecor wires. http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=hp&q=magnecor+wires&aq=***&aqi=g10&oq=&fp=c26c79a56c95bda8 I forget who I've ordered from but I've always ordered mine online. They are substantially cheaper to buy from a vendor than from Magnecor. I'm not going to say better but I've never had issues with Magnecor wires, even ones that have over 100,000 miles on them. They used to advertise exceptional life out of their wires...and maybe a lifetime warranty? To that end I think they may outlast Subaru wires, but my sample size is to small to mean anything quantitatively. I've gotten 100,000+ miles and will not be surprised to get 200,000 miles out of the sets I own. Most folks probably don't plan on owning cars that they're replacing wires on for another 100,000 miles though so it's hardly worth the time discussing for 99% of folks out there. OBDII makes sense - maybe that's more sensitive to cylinder misfires?

I'm not sure why the earlier ones would differ though. I didn't know that about the older ones, interesting. Are the Subaru wires interchangeable between them, I would have assumed they were? In general, Magnecor recognizes the EJ propensity to be very sensitive to ignition wires and has made a decision to supply the best wire for the job. They're very inexpensive so I'd go with the larger ones. I've run a bunch of sets and currently have them on mine.

02 OBW When the wipers are turned on, the drivers side doesn't move but the passengers side does. If I manually pull it up the windshield a bit, it sort of moves back and forth some but overshoots the windshield obviously because that changes it's orientation. So stuff is moving but the wiper arm is not. I'm guessing it was frozen to the windshield and something stripped when the wipers were turned on (I wasn't using the car when it happened). I'm guessing the shaft/nut that holds the wiper blade in place is stripped? I see a small cap, looks like I can pry that up and have a look. I've never messed with EJ wipers - anyone know what it could be?

Flagstaff has one for $99 - 1-800-352-8737 i never go buy parts, my time is too valuable. i order what i want and have it mailed. waiting on my door step verses driving, waiting in line, waiting for them to find it. and as your numbers suggest it's usually much cheaper. you can order any number of the $25-$35 ones out there. of course I don't think the ECU will fix your problem so I can see why you wouldn't want to pay much but $30 is worth diagnosis to me, maybe not someone else. you can PM me if you're interested in the one I have, but i probably can't offer it to you as I did emily. 1996 Automatic EJ25. Good luck tracking this down, sure sounds frustrating.

OBW struts will raise all the legacy's - Brighton, L, LSi, GT, they all sit lower to the ground.

What they said - this all comes down to the shop. There's probably a very few in the country that would give a reasonable price for this and for good reason. Most likely it's going to be really high, unless you're lucky enough to find someone to do it. Might be best to find someone on a subaru board that has done it before to do it for you. Shipping would probably be cheaper and I'd rather it be done by someone that knows Subarus too. Or ask here if anyone knows a shop that would do this.

Yeah the bell housing bolt difference won't matter. Bellhousing changed in 98 so it should be the same as a 99, unless it's an early oddball 98 or something. Either way doesn't matter since it works fine and bolts right up. Make sure both transmissions are the same clutch type - Subaru uses hydraulic and cable in various models. My suspicion is they can be "converted" but you'd probably want to make sure and know that ahead of time. You will also need to verify the final drive ratio like he just said. The transmissions you're describing will be either 3.9 or 4.11. Subaru was multi-personality when choosing final drive ratios, they are all over the place although my guess is that yours is 3.9 - although you haven't told exactly what car you have (trim, etc).

I said it would be a waste of time to continue looking into a fluid based cause of your current issue, not waste of time to check. That being said gear oil is not going to cause this problem. But, if it really was low - then your problem isn't that the fluid is low or the speedo - but that you have a leak somewhere. Gear oil doesn't disappear or burn in a trans - it leaks. No, not always. Say 95% of the time you'll get a code (realizing that's a made up number, but you get the point). Yep, it will. Keep this in mind next time you see it: You can probably verify the speedo head if you have a trip meter elsewhere on the car? If the speedo head is bad all other trip mechanisms will work fine (odometer or a trip calculator like my car has). If the speed sender/sensor is bad then any mileage related (speedo or odometer) will be cracked up. For instance it will show 100mph but the odometer won't increment that fast, it will read accurately.

I can say with 100% certainty this is not oil level related at all. Focusing on fluids will be a waste of time for you from here on out. Speedo head or VSS. My bet is the speedo head based on your description. The frequency, timing, intermittent nature of it doesn't matter at this point. That's common for components to fail this way rather than complete black/white working or not.

when installing EJ stuff on older gen stuff - just ignore ABS altogether. the ABS really has nothing to do with the calipers, rotors, brake lines, and mastery cylinders even. it's a stand alone style unit - it's not like there's such a thing as "abs calipers" or "non abs calipers" - they're the same thing. so when you're swapping EJ calipers and rotors you just buy whatever calipers and rotors you want and install them on your EA/ER vehicle. you won't have ABS obviously unless you get the rare XT6 that does have ABS over on your side of the world, but we didn't get any of those. but even still it doesn't matter - swapping calipers and rotors is irrelevant to ABS.