idosubaru

i used scotts. maybe the rear coil overs are more rough, i can't recall if it was like that with the air suspension or not. maybe i'll have to try those again, and yes i remember making my rears orient the same as yours. i didn't install anything but strut extensions though so i've got nice angles on my front CV's.

Typically crank and cam angle sensors cause this. They don't fail often and are easy to replace so getting a used one is a fine solution. Not sure how to determine which one is causing it though. Might want to search for threads on those two items.

i believe because the trailing arm gets pulled "forward" when it's pushed down by rotating on that front mount, it's actually a front to back kind of angle which would compromise the metal to bend the mount that way. i'm sure there's some solution i just haven't messed with it yet.

yeah, right around the time you were doing yours i think i asked you about orientation of the rears - outer or inner, something. hmmm, maybe the XT6 is different, air suspension?, or i need to check something out?

yeah, i know right? it's either me or the XT6, i can't figure it out holding up great, it's my daily driver. doesn't drive as nice and cush, but i guess that's the nature of a lift. i like the height right where it's at. drove it 4,000 miles to Colorado, towing a full 6x10 trailer, up a nutty mountain pass to 10,000 feet. that was pretty awesome. here's a picture most of the way up the pass:

I've got rear coil overs right now. I've messed with the rears and have another idea to make it work and all the parts to do it but haven't had the time and don't mind how it's riding now.

2" SJR lift with forester XT Turbo wheels: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101434&highlight=lifted the air suspension make it a little tricky. you'd have to fabricate different style mounts or drill through the mounts for the air lines and the lift puts an angle and strain on the rear struts that causes them to leak at the top. the top mount bushings actually seal the top of the strut where the strut rod comes through the top. cleaning, tightening, reinstalling wouldn't get rid of the leak.

your thread seemed very general at first, wasn't sure where you were going. seems you're looking for mostly trans info right now? LSD - is not applicable to the auto trans in terms of the center differential because it doesn't have one, it works compeletly different than a manual trans. don't think as an automatic as a "automatic manual" - there's few similarities. the auto's have rear transfer clutches. which is actually really sweet for off road/snow because you can install a switch to control the Duty C solenoid and "lock" whenever you want rather than let the computer decide for you. i've done it a bunch of times to my daily drivers with 4EAT and it's fantastic. requires splicing a switch into one wire, very simple. as for the rear differential, you can easily swap in an LSD if you want one. and the front differentials are part of the transmission "transaxle", there are LSD options for that as well. all of this stuff is covered in other threads if you want specifics about either of those 3 options above. good luck!

I recommend checking out SJR, he made the bits for my XT6 lift and does EA/EJ...he just posted a winter/christmas group buy, not sure if EJ was on the list but check him out. He's got a website too.

my bet is tires. if you have significant snow to drive through consider buying dedicated snow tires for the winter. FWD with snow tires > than AWD with all seasons. a friend of mine drives his freaking hugoginormous 1955 whatever it is (i have no clue about old cars) all winter long as a daily driver. just throws snow tires on that rear wheel beast and tears it up.

nope, nothing transmission to worry about.

compared to pulling the engine, swapping an intake manifold or exhaust manifold is like brushing your teeth, so i wouldn't really pay any attention to that. avoiding a 96 just because of the ypipe completely baffles me, it's good that you're a bit more open than that. someone is going to swap a motor and be worried about two more bolts and an extra gasket? that sounds more like a comedy sketch than anything else. the 95-96's are nice because of the non-interference factor and the timing belt kits (via Ebay) are only $80 for all new pulleys an tbelt verses the later ones which are the new style tensioner and $200. also the older style tensioners are more reliable than the new style 97ish+. personally i'd get a 95 or 96 with y pipe (folks on here have those) or a 97/98 if it's cheap. i've never seen a dual port exhaust 97/98 EJ22, might be a regional thing from what he's seen but all of them that i've seen, and owned, and others have mentioned are usually single ports.

that's why I said to grind it first, get it down to a threadable diameter and it should be an easy go.

+1 this isn't the part to put any upgrade money into. you can search and read ALL about it on here, it's been discussed before.

Oh right, good point. They'll see my EJ18 FWD Lsi and be like Then they'll see the current two tone due to a deer collision..or even after I paint I'm changing colors, so yeah I don't think I have a chance. Definitely not worth my time since I already have it replaced. I was thinking, hey if they replace the spring then awesome.

help for what - does the bolt still need to come out, you need instructions on the procedures, recommendations on parts...etc? as for the bolt - avoid EZouts like the plague. they do not work - the only thing they work on is easy stuff that will come out with numerous other methods. they break too easily to even be considered a tool (don't ask me why i know this and no longer own any). if there's any shaft left over of the bolt - place a nut over top of the shaft of the bolt and weld them together. then use a regular socket to remove it. get some left handed drill bits and drill it out. the LH drill bits will help turn it out as the metal heats and thins by drilling. if not - just drill it out an helicoil it. that's easy to do. you'll need a right angle drill or right angle drill attachment to do this and probably best to remove the radiator. since you have to remove the timing belts anyway - get the awesome $80 ebay kits that include all new pulleys and a belt. that's what i always used on those motors.

How do recalls work, would they fix my broken strut spring for free right now or is that only for original owners and within a certain time frame? I'll take mine in and let them fix it?

Subaru offered an extended 100,000 mile head gasket warranty campaign for that motor, it should have been covered unless you were outside of the 8 or 10 year age limit.

Yes the EJ25 has headgasket issues but not as bad as the older EJ25's like GD references. 2000-2002 Subaru offered an extended 100,000 mile head gasket warranty campaign due to the issue. one huge plus is if the head gasket blows on the newer SOHC it doesn't leave you stranded, they just start slowly leaking externally but are completely drivable so long as you don't run them out of coolant. rock solid reliability is going to mean up to date maintenance on any used vehicle - complete timing belt job for instance. Foresters, unless you're talking new and low miles, are going to need a timing belt job and fluids changed - transmission, differential. look for these major items to have already been completed. it's not that hard to find one that has already had the head gaskets replaced either.

they need to be looked at, this could be a few things. i would guess one of the calipers is sticking, you need to find out which one. one of those laser temp guns are awesome as it'll show you which wheel/hub/rotor is hottest and the problem. pull the wheel and see which caliper is hanging up. more than likely the slides are stuck/seized. they should be cleaned and greased with every brake job but sometimes folks skip that step. at this point you probably have a hosed rotor too with all that overheating and it's expanding and seizing inside the pads maybe? don't let a shop hose you as they'll probably want two new calipers, two new rotors, two sets of pads. you're very likely to get hosed if you take this somewhere. you could also jack the front of the car up and spin each tire to see which one is tight.

woah snap, thanks a bunch for the follow up. my XT6 is getting horrific gas mileage and while I bought a new sensor (but havent' replaced it yet) I didn't think that was the issue so I've been putting that off. I didn't think the O2 could make that much difference. A few mpg yes...but not that much. Maybe i'll get lucky.

how different are EA81 and EA82 steering racks, are they interchangeable? nice pic's and information. if you wanted to make this work, seems like the way to go is to grind that "wrench area" down so you can run a die over it and make the threaded portion longer. then you can shorten the inner tie rod but cutting part of the end off. by your calculations it would only take 3/4" on each side.

that's bizarre, it didn't show up until years later? i had a coil spring snap in my legacy earlier this year (well the wife was driving at the time) and it made lots of really nice noises to let me know about it afterwards.

if you end up repairing it some day, folks on here will have all the bolts and goodies you need to complete it probably. not really many "parts" to be missing, just bolts and lots of big parts - valve covers, etc. enough people have stuff lying around to help you complete this should you ever go that route.

That's it, this is what I was saying in that other thread where you kept saying the trans would need to be torn down to verify. Like he already said that minor final drive difference is not going to be a big deal. Folks do the same thing all the time when switching tire sizes. Speedo's typically read a few percent low anyway, not sure which way you might go but if it ends up being a little "faster" than it was for the same RPM you might actually be more accurate .