idosubaru

Being an automatic it's not likely to feel fast. If you're looking for a cheap one...i'd take that to mean poorly maintained, poorly running, and a 10-15 year old auto trans. But they are great motors with some decent stats. If you want actual numbers look up the 0-60 times and compare them, they can be found online. I believe you'll find the SVX stacks up pretty good and has better numbers than any EJ25 vehicle. And I would guess it has better numbers than the newer H6 (of which I own one). Great car - minus the parts headache, cost and finding them. I posted on multiple forums for a friend.. a throttle position sensor I think and never found one. Windshields crazy expensive, trans, and wheel bearings.

I'm with John - sounds like your radiator is plugged up. Aftermarket thermostats are terrible, you can tell just by looking at them how cheap and weak they look compared to the Subaru thermostats. But - if you had identical symptoms with the old and new one, it's very unlikely to be your problem. Getting not only two bad ones, but two that have the exact same symptoms would be odd.

Good news for you: Yes, all the wiring is there....Bingo - this is easy, you just need parts and it's plug and play. I'd definitely go with a factory unit verses wiring one in myself. You need the actuator(under the hood) and the vacuum fitting, the cruise control box (under the instrument panel) and the Brake Position Switch off the brake pedal (and Clutch Position Switch if it's a manual), and the Cruise control switch (in the steering wheel) and the Main Cruise Control Switch, from the dash.

really no way to tell, but something like that is likely to leak. might not. might. but if you have a good engine i wouldn't be swapping an unknown into it. +1 on GD's comments - Fel-Pro's don't require a retorque (really annoying) and have excellent feedback from those of us that dont' even know how many head gasket jobs we've done.

that could be your problem. did you use Subaru wires and NGK plugs? EJ engines are notorious for not being forgiving to aftermarket stuff, i've seen brand new wires cause CEL's and undrivability (nice word for a late night laugh!) if they weren't Subaru wires and NGK plugs - it could be the problem, how soon after this work did you have the problem? again - all this guessing is going to kill you. i sort of tossed the bad gas, fuel pump, fuel filter, catalytic converter all out there to show you the number of possible "guesses" and how that's a bad way to diagnosis a problem. let's start with what we know: your ECU is not bad, reinstall the old one. clear the codes and see which come back. let the ECU tell us what the problem is and start from there. if they all come back, then so be it, but that rarely happens.

get some used ones? parts wanted forum here? i've gone to Advanced Auto Parts and they've matched them to what I've had before, even though they didnt' have any listed for the vehicle. Try another store or two and just match them?

All this guessing is going to kill you - slow down. Cat converter is bad, your fuel pump is clogged, you have bad gas, your MAF is flipping out....et.al. First - like OBW says (you'll find he knows his stuff), ECU's almost never fail. Usually caused by improper jumping or some other tinkering. Put your old ECU back in, it's fine. When you have multiple codes standard procedure is to clear them and see which come back. It's telling you codes, start with known issue, it doesn't take long. Cylinder misfire is very common on EJ engines - spark plugs or wires likely need changed. On some occasions one fault can trigger others, so it very well could be that only one or two of those are legit.

it's not *that* bad to set a TPS, if you don't follow the FSM! basically turn it until it starts to cut off, then back it off just a hair - a millimeter. the FSM procedure looks grueling. it's not that exact like milling a head or anything, pretty easy to get right though seems ambiguous the first time. you can also view the previous and replacement position (prior to removing) and start there, you'll be within a few millimeters. they've gotten QC down pretty good that they're rather simple to interchange, it's not like old 70's cars. good point on swapping the entire throttle body, very easy. throttle bodies never fail on subarus so the only reason someone would want one is the sensor - so a throttle body itself won't be any more expensive than a sensor. you'll just need a new gasket for it - a couple bucks. folks won't want to separate one from a good engine, but otherwise they're easy to find. i've said it once - post in the Parts Wanted Forum and see who comes up with one - looks like Dave just made an offer that he has some. you could also try Subarus website to see which ones are interchangeable (years and engines).

Got in touch with a friend, when he gets back to me I'll let you know, he's done this a few times.

there are aftermarket kits, not sure what's entailed with installing them, try looking them up on line. they should show just what is needed to install. they'd definitely ahve directions and all which would be a plus. personally i think it would be easier to install a factory unit if you can find one. actually a steering wheel isn't hard to install at all. if you're uncomfortable swapping a steering wheel i would think doing a cruise install would be a really big job. parts: buttons (on the steering wheel and an on-off button on Subaru OEM systems) brake negator - button that disengages the cruise when you hit the brakes actuator - mechanism that actually hooks into your throttle cable vacuum pump - gives vacuum assist to the actuator mentioned above and the associated wiring between the actuator and buttons. maybe there's a controller (computer), i can't remember. i would personally go with a Subaru system in the engine bay at least - pump and actuator. then you can wire in your own buttons however you want it in the cabin if you're not down with swapping the subaru stuff. Oh - i think my buddy that does this said the wiring is usually already in place - i'll have to ask him and get back to you. if that's true then you just slide the parts in, that would be easiest and probably best.

a good friend of mine has done it a couple times, he just finds one with it at a junk yard and pulls everything that's needed for it. he's a member here but very rarely posts (like never). post in the "Parts Wanted Forum" here as well, a few of us have parts cars that we could pull the stuff off of. there are two different cruise control set ups (not sure if it's a year or model thing) that i've seen so i'd be sure to get it all of the same vehicle. i have all the stuff off a 97 Legacy GT parts car if you're interested. it's just a vacuum pump, actuator and some hoses. then you'd need a steering wheel maybe?

don't buy either, i would just replace it with a used one. that is a very rare failure, not worth putting money into a new part. you can post here in the parts wanted or get one from a yard and save some cash.

that's a bad idea, it's going to cause binding and issues if you put any kind of miles on dry pavement like that. since others around here have welded diffs, maybe they'll be able to elaborate since i haven't done it. i would think the rear CV's are going to take the most pounding, so you could give it a shot and see how long a rear axle lasts. what kind of car/transmission? is this a PT4WD or FT4WD? if you want more traction on the road i would think your problem is not with an open rear diff. what car, engine, trans, and problems do you have with the current set up? you probably need better tires?

ah ha - this really doesn't have anything to do with heat shields. taking it in for an oil change and coming out with that would totally flip my lid now that you tell the entire story. yes, they hosed her. welcome to - greed. it's everywhere, to think that's just a "subaru" trait is comical. read all the articles and stats on automotive dealers - there's been a huge change in their profit margins in the past 10-20 years. they make money on service, not new cars. they hire professionally trained "service managers" that are trained to sell services because of that. every manufacture has design glitches, i wouldn't go ruling out a manufacturer over a couple issues, you could essentially rule out every vehicle ever made if you get "a bad one" so to speak. i think i'd be having a peak at the stuff to make sure they actually DID the work.

actually $85 doesn't sound too bad to me for parts and labor. exhaust is annoying to work on. also - don't expect subaru to not replace it. it was designed and in place for a reason that way. they could just as easily get sued for not replacing it by some people (trust me, it happens), so i'd avoid that angle.

plenty of info here on doing the headgaskets if you end up having your dad do them. Go Subaru for thermostat and intake manifold gaskets Go Fel-Pro permatorques and add 5-10 pounds to the final torque value for headgaskets.

oh right check, LSD fluid.

I didn't see this information in the other threads. Is it just two side seals that are needed and that's it, and the optional front seal? Wondering if there's a gasket on the rear plate or any other seals/orings I'll need?

your crank keyway problem was caused by something. someone removed the crank bolt at one point and didn't reinstall it tight enough. very common problem, folks mess that up all the time. engine is not to blame. that is also repairable. a number of folks on here have repaired that, i've done it twice. 150,000 miles is really rather light duty for an EJ22. if you want no oil leaks, replace any leaking cam seals and reseal the oil pump when intsalling a new timing belt (i always do them all together since the belt has to come off to do those seals anyway). replace valve cover gaskets. torque bind is only an issue on poorly maintained cars - automatic transmission fluid never being changed, car improperly towed, running mismatched tires, spare, or not rotating them. if i buy a car without torque bind - i have no worries about it every developing it because i change the fluid an rotate the tires. done right a 150,000 mile 1999 EJ22 has a great chance of making another 100,000 miles. but expecting that with zero maintenance on a 10 year old car is a bit much and risky.

great thanks JCE. i bought one off ebay just now.

$900? should be able to pick those up for $100-$200?

i'll be in maryland thanksgiving and christmas and might be interested in picking this up. you can keep the new radiator. the 99 will be mostly the same - the engine is different though being 99 was the first year for Phase II EJ22 so engine doesn't swap...well, not easily. personally i'd keep it as a back up beater, having two cars is really nice. having a parts car is great, go snag what you need. and it's nice when you only have one car, having those parts readily available - some most prone to failure you can even stash in the spare compartment. but it's also annoying having it in the way, killing grass, it rusts as it sets, parts get harder to remove, parts don't get better with age and weather. and if you only pull a few cheap parts off of it you lost more by not selling it for $500. almost every part can be bought cheap on these cars, it's usually more of a convenience thing than a financial decision. just depends on your space, time, etc.

pretty sure all of that is interchangeable. a quick look up of parts online will tell you. either at a subaru dealership online or maybe subaru's parts resource: http://opposedforces.com/parts/

the alarm went off. i had no problem getting it to turn off. my question is - if it has an alarm (Subaru alarm) does that mean it has the ability to have a remote entry as well? i don't think Subaru installs only and alarm right, without keyless entry option? i don't care about the alarm at all, zero, zilch...i just want remote entry if it's capable. seems like if it has an alarm it should be?

describe what is happening? the engine is turning over but not starting? is the starter engaging? is your check engine light currently on? black connector is in the trunk under the rear cargo lid, just under/around the passengers side rear speaker. it's adjacent to the green connector in the trunk close to the ECU if that's what you have found. might be tucked up or taped up under there.