idosubaru

can't do it without major modifications. the intake manifolds do not swap and it doesn't plug in. the only way to do it would be to swap the DOHC wiring harness onto the SOHC engine. then you have a major concern still that the cam triggers are different. they are different amongst later swaps, so good chance these two are different as well. with the later swaps it's easy to just swap cams, not sure you can do that from Phase I to Phase II DOHC and SOHC. the trans bellhousings are different (changed in 1998), but it's not a problem and will bolt up just fine.

The Subaru additive is only for Phase II EJ25's (All 2000+ EJ25's and 99 Forester EJ25's). As for the coolant - how long have you driven the car/run the engine? It's typically for coolant lying in the exhaust to burn off for awhile after a headgasket job. Did you use a Subaru gasket? In general most folks avoid any aftermarket gaskets for EJ engines. Test for exhaust gasses in the coolant?

that is very typical of piston slap, goes away as it warms up. but there's still no way to tell. i'm not famiilar with rod knock enough to know whether it can do the same thing or not. without hearing it there's now way to tell for sure. it's a subtle difference, so i don't think words are going to finalize this. you need someone to hear it. go listen to a couple other EJ25 subaru's shouldnt' take too long to find one with piston slap!!!!!

never say "never"! yes the EJ18 is noticeably underpowered compared the EJ22. it's a far bigger difference than EJ22 to EJ25 for daily driving. much better if it's behind a manual trans. if you keep it from overheating and running low on oil it'll run forever though, it'll outlast everything else on the car, so just romp it and put your foot into the pedal! mine actually drives around town just fine (and it's behind an auto trans), the noticeably irritating part is going up steep mountain roads. sometimes I shift it by hand to put it in the gear i want.

you remove the rear half of the driveshaft, not the entire thing. actually, i don't even remove it, what i do is just unbolt the 4 bolts at the diff and leave it hanging. 4 12mm nuts and done.

Looking from the top the intake manifold bolts to the heads, that's the sort of obvious thing to look for to determine the heads. I'm betting they're all seeing the cam carrier.

"wind them up", wow that sounds like a bizarre process.

I'm in a bizarre mood this morning, so class lets boil this down with some good humor. Seals leak due to age and mileage. American cars don't have the *problem* of still being around after 15 or 20 years! How many Dodge Colts are leaking...none! Because they're awesome? No, because none are still around! But if for some reason an American car somehow lasted more than a few years, it's seals too would start leaking. So yes, Subaru's can leak, but it's not because they leak, it's because they actually last longer than the seals. :lol: ROFL!!!!! Also many older Subaru's aren't worth much so they don't get the best maintenance, etc. A 4 runner is more likely to have fewer owners and be better taken care of longer. Of course there's individual differences, i'm saying over thousands of samples. Poor maintenance leads to leaks. In all honesty they do have "twice" the possibility of leaking than many vehicles though because they have two of everything - two head gaskets, two cam carriers, two valve covers, etc. Most cars only have one. And to your vehicle, that's low miles for such and old vehicle, I personally find lower mileage stuff more likely to leak. The seals likely dry out or the car has sat for awhile during some time in it's life, etc. Now - onto your problem. The next step is really simple, like a 6 year old could do it. If it's leaking that bad then the loss of fluid is going to show up. Check your engine oil and front diff oil and let us know which is loosing fluid. It could be a rear main seal or front diff/axle seal. ** But, it *could* also be a valve cover or something simple, you said the underneath is all covered in oil? Most leaks end up back there where you looked due to wind/driving blowing it back. So what you've seen so far might not mean much. If the underneath is all covered, sounds like the oil leak may be *starting* up front and ending it's way back. So - next step is to find out where the leak is starting, not where it's ending up. It's the same reason you don't think your driveway is leaking oil when you see oil on it! You know it came from somewhere. Same thing with an oil leak on the car, just because it's dripping from somewhere doesn't mean the leak started there.

sweet, i thought there had to be a simpler way if i ever need to do that. i don't replace axles so i've never tried. since i put 100,000+ miles on broken boot rear axles and have never had one make any noise or break, i don't waste my time on them, broken boots or not. i've disconnected them many times though when installing rear LSD's so i'm familiar with doing it that way.

:lol: sensitive - ah, abe! i was letting you know all the information you're looking for is already here, just trying to help, i found the use of a ridiculously large number personally amusing. i typed in "towing" under the search function and Older Gen forum and got a good many hits, including what i think is verification that you can do that: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97682&highlight=towing

yeah, i'm with GD that sounds really bizarre - can you post a photo? unless someone is very familiar with the older Subaru's they might not really be able to tell the difference between cam carrier/head. no other vehicle is really set up like Subaru's horizontally opposed stuff. most vehicles have one head, Subarus have two. Most have one timing belt/chain - this has two....etc.

Assuming your title is correct and you're doing a rear axle, then disregard all the control arm unbolting stuff - that's all front axle related. Rear is just two pins. Knock out the pins and the axle slides off the stubs, no bolts at all for the actually axle. You'll likely need room to get it off though, I typically drop the diff, two bolts on the mustache bar and one huge bolt up top, leaving the driveshaft still connected. be advised, it is very heavy and awkward.

owners manual spells this out. it's been talked about 231,343,234 times, did you try searching, i know the answer is already here. pretty sure you can flat tow the manuals since the center acts as an open diff, but i forget sometimes too. disconnecting the driveshaft is probably easier than hooking up a tow bar though.

Replace radiator cap and make sure hose is good and tight, it's just pressed on. Wow a HG on an EJ22, that's bizarre, must have been overheated sometime in it's life. Did you own it since new?

get it from the GM dealer.

Easy! I've already done this, it's simple. All you need to do is bolt the EJ22 intake manifold onto the EJ18, they are interchangeable. It's very easy, only a few bolts, connectors and hoses and the entire manifold comes off.....it will have all the wiring harness, connectors, fuel rail, etc connected to it. You'll need new intake manifold gaskets, get them from Subaru. The EJ18 won't have a knock sensor, no problem just remove it from the EJ22 and install it on the EJ18. When I've done it, the hole was already there! The EJ18 will have dual port exhaust, that's the only hard part is finding one since yards typically won't sell them. But that's easily remedied as well. All you need is either an EJ25 1996+ or EJ18 exhaust manifold as they are identical and will bolt right up. The exhausts are the same so it bolts right in place and everything lines up the same, just the ports are different. So yeah, good news - this is really easy!

My XT6 has recently started vibrating, it has a 2" lift. I swapped out the new GCK axle (came with the car when I bought it) with an MWE and smooth as silk now. Anyone want two new XT6 axles?!

You need to decide if you really want a rebuild kit - main bearings, rod bearings, piston rings, etc. That's a big deal. A reseal kit - would include head gaskets and everything else. A rebuild and reseal are so far a part you really need to qualify what you're looking for. You'll definitely want Fel Pro Permatorque head gaskets torqued 5-10 pounds over the final recommended FSM value no matter what you do. And get the timing belt kits off of ebay. RAM Performance in clinton Ohio has complete kits of EA81 rebuild stuff that works for EA82's as well. I would personally order from them if I was doing an EA81, EA82, or ER27 rebuild.

hmmm, well for me i want a receiver style. but i'll just modify mine.

are you sure that's on the heads or could it possibly be on the cam carriers? the cam carriers can get a red anaerobic sealant, so you might be seeing those. sounds like it was worked on before. if that's the case, it has the chance that the job wasn't done right. replace both head gaskets. *** Use Fel Pro Permatorque (PT in the part number) head gaskets only and add 5-10 pounds to the final torque value. That's what all of us do and it's the best way for this motor. Subaru headgaskets never get anything put on them, they are always installed dry.

manual and automatics are completely different. but subaru automatics remain much the same from the 80's to the 2000's.

I have a set on one of my daily drivers and I've used multiple other sets before. Up to 40,000 miles so far. In the past I have used a Subaru timing belt and only replaced the pulleys that needed too. My guess is most of yours are going to spin rather freely and even have some noise to them. Brand new they don't have any noise, yours will probably all be noisey because they've lost their grease over the past 12 years. I would not use the seals, I'd go Subaru only for the seals, water pump gasket (although that one looks like an OEM Subaru gasket) and thermostat for sure, noticeable differences there. I wouldn't be concerned with the water pump. An option is to plan on pulling the belt off in 50,000 miles and check all the pulleys. I wouldn't trust the 15 year old originals any more than the brand new aftermarkets to make it to the next timing belt change.

i think you're just seeing the wrong bolts, those are head bolts probably. valve covers are really easy, just start removing the 10mm bolts you see holding them on. remove whatever is in the way to get to them. very simple. draining the oil is pointless as the oil level isn't that high in the pan anyway. they only leak when the car is running and oil is being supplied to the covers, so not much is going to come out, a teaspoon maybe. if you were really worried about it you could jack that side of the car up so the oil runs towards the center of the car, not out. i never do that though.

were the top strut mounts used or sitting for awhile? i had the same thing happen to my "new" struts I installed. the top mounts had been sitting for awhile and had some rust in them, causing clunking. i shot some grease down into the bearings with a needle fitting ($2 at the auto parts store) on my grease gun and it's basically all quiet now.

the marks are ONLY FOR INITIAL INSTALLATION, they aren't even necessary so it doesn't matter. what matters is that the pulleys are in proper alignment. once the engine turns over one time the marks no longer line up except every so often. when the engine turns over once the belt does not turn over once, it's not a one-to-one ratio.