idosubaru

no, not quite. something to keep in mind is there's no "misfire sensor" on the engine. the ECU reads other parameters - likely cam/crank/other sensor combo to determine misfire. a jumped belt can cause misfire but no cam/crank sensor codes. the original poster doesn't offer much detail.....any performance issues, how long, mileage, how long before tune up, how long after, etc. so we dont' have much to go on.

define "miss" - any speeds, constant, accelerating? any check engine lights? if you've ever had any of those we need to know what they are. Subaru spark plug wires and NGK plugs are very important. These EJ engines don't handle aftermarket very well.

good chance you need to change your timing belt and timing belt tensioner immediately, actually it's best to replace all the timing components (i use the ebay kits). your timing may be getting hosed from a weak tensioner or slipped belt. you'll want to nail this quick as you have an interfernece engine. if the belts goes or slips too much your engine will sustain damaged valves.

after the belt was reinstalled i suppose? as for thinking about getting a 60,000 mile motor, that's a pretty terrible idea. used EJ25's are a much worse gamble than that tensioner pulley. just search for "head gasket" if you don't believe me. you'll get zillions of hits on here and even google has multiple sites and folks PO'ed about that whole deal.

if they didn't properly "burp" your coolant, it would have overheated right away and kept overheating, not been intermittent. going 40,000+ miles after the first sign of head gasket issues on a Phase I DOHC (your engine) is almost unheard of. that's really strange. i don't think there's any chance of pinning this on the dealer. on engines run with bad head gaskets for extended periods of times (10's of thousands of miles - with the exception of SOHC Phase II engines) i've seen significant damage. pay attention to the block and heads. wherever the coolant passages are you could see evidence of wearing, meaning metal is actually missing. hard to explain except to say metal will be warn off, the holes will be larger where the breach was. it'll be obvious and hopefully you don't have that.

Rooster2 - often times when these new tensioners fail they begin to make a light rapping or tapping sound, they usually give a warning and drive fine for awhile before they finally allow the belt to slip. The ones I've seen only made noise, I have yet to see one fail completely. So just keep your ears peeled until you replace it.

If you want a good axle that won't have any problems, go with MWE or Subaru only. Avoid anecdotal "reviews" and take it from people that have installed lots of axles, anything else is a waste of time. If you don't believe me, spend some time searching here and you'll be glad you did. If you're time isn't valuable and you can't plan ahead (i.e. wait for something in the mail), then I guess it doesn't matter. My time is too valuable to waste replacing boots, clamps, joints blowing apart, shaking, vibrating, and clicking out of the box. I've seen "new" axles last less than 2 days, complete joke. And by "last" i mean - blow apart into tiny balls all underneath the car. Can you tell I'm still bitter??? :lol::lol:

i had an xt6 that ran, shifted, and drove great. but the clutch was very hard to push down. i've owned at least 10 manual trans XT6's, so know what they're supposed to feel like. this one was tight and would break clutch cables. it was awhile ago so i can't recall what the problem was.

FSM - Factory Service Manual That's the actual manual the Subaru dealer technicians have available. It's also available in online .pdf format. I've gotten tons of them for free...like 10 or so.

If you're looking for reliability, no aftermarket needed, the Subaru parts will last the life of the vehicle. Yours failed, not because they are poor quality, but because at some point in the past the vehicle wasn't maintained properly. Usually that means either poor tire maintenance or lack of fluid changes. If you're looking for cheaper then you'd want to find a known good used unit, but that's going to take some work and digging. You can start by advertising in the parts wanted forum of this board and trying to find a junk yard that has a bad transmission. For instance, I have a bad trans with a known good rear extension housing, but I'm not selling it.

First - there's a chance you didn't sustain engine damage, so good idea to slap a new belt on and see. MDJC (fellow member) somehow had a belt jump recently and got those codes as well. His belt jumped and he fixed it and now it's fine. Now...that's REALLY strange and they don't normally just "jump time", but his oddball problem is an entirely different story. My only point is don't assume the engine is bad just yet even though it doesn't look promising. If you're going to negotiate anything I'd see if they'd slap a new belt on it for free (they quoted by cousin $699 for just a timing belt change only). 3 years and 60,000 miles is a long time, I highly doubt they'll consider any kind of warranty on that kind of mileage. Heck that's almost a new car warranty if you think about it. Even a brand new car might be just out of warranty, much less a 10 year old 180,000 mile vehicle. Replacing the tensioner isn't required or mandatory unfortunately. Most of us do it, but dealers do not. A forum like this is your friend, we have better collective knowledge, experience, and suggestions than any dealership in the world. Really all of the timing components should be replaced, not just the tensioner. The bearings in all the other pulleys are just as bad by now most likely. Expecting 200,000 miles (time to second belt change) out of all the timing bearings on an interference engine is a huge gamble (as you're finding out). That being said, here's the problem. Subaru pulleys are really expensive. You're talking $500+ added to your bill just for parts, plus some extra labor probably. Nobody is up for that so rarely will you find that being done by a dealer. Those of us on here use the ebay kits - for $90 (old style tensioner) or $200 (new style like yours has) you get everything. All new pulleys, tensoiner, and belt. Some folks buy the kit but use a Subaru belt for kicks. Brand new aftermarket bearings > 10 year old devoid of grease original bearings hope all that helps and good luck.

correct your 14" wheels aren't going to clear those larger calipers. you would get the caliper bracket, calipers, and rotors if they're any good. yard rotors are often rusted though. buy the wheels off of it too, then you don't have to worry about the clearance. it's more work but the outback will have the rear disc hubs if you want to ditch your rear drum brakes. those will fit under your 14" wheels.

right on - if the belt jumped, something is wrong and it's going to happen again. not a fun thought on an interference engine. if you have no idea what the problem could be i would try a new Subaru belt. i doubt he'll go all Subaru - $500+ in parts for all the pulleys, tensioner, and belt. hope a cam isn't having problems, causing undue tension on the timing belt?

best thing to have is a Subaru FSM. many are available for free if you do some searching. the subaruxt.com site has the FSM's available for the Subaru XT - which has the EA82 motor which is what i think you're working on. The appropriate sealant is Anaerobic sealant, though some folks substitute other things.

wow, that totally sucks. you went in for a slight "oil leak" and got billed for a massive head gasket job that didnt' fix the problem? there's a problem with that. you should have never had the head gaskets replaced in the first place. but let's ignore the head gaskets for now: here's the problem with the oil leak: you should have received a diagnosis. did you? almost EVERY SINGLE car on the road has some slight oil seapage or leak, very normal. sucks if it happens to drip on the exhaust. a proper repair involves locating the leak (very easy... i mean it's LEAKING!!! :lol:). throwing a complete engine reseal (what you paid for) at an oil leak is absolutely insane, nobody does that. you might as well buy a new engine every time something is wrong. which either means we don't know everything (there were other problems) or they hosed you. FYI: your year engine doesn't leak oil at the headgaskets, good running EJ engines don't do that. so that they even replaced the head gaskets sounds like overkill. and that's a $1,000-$,1500 overkill on your bill. head gaskets are expensive.

i can't really see it all that well in the pic's. in simplest terms the crank pulley isn't that exact of a piece of equipment. the only thing you need to worry about is that it's tight. outside of that, if it's warn or sheared like you said then it's just going to not sit *perfectly* flush on the crank. *if* that's the case, it isn't a huge deal really, it will wear your accessory belts quicker. you can look at it while the engine is running to see how true it is and how well the belt is tracking.

i've done this numerous times as well and never had that problem. so i'm going to guess it's not the coolant. what about the two manifold gasket leaks, i'd be more concerned about that. how did that happen, are you just it was just the gasket both times? could just be coincidence that it happened around the gasket time or maybe the wiring is hosed, so moving the intake/wiring harness somehow moves and contributes to a short int he O2 sensor wiring? just a random guess. the one O2 sensor issue I had ended up being the O2 sensor wire (it's a one wire style on yours) was warn down to bare metal and would ocassionally ground out if it touched metal. i think it was where it passed through the engine cross member, but it was like 10 years ago.

lots going on here. the power steering fluid might be your leak, not the crank shaft seal. if that's the case though you would still want to pull at least one timing belt cover to make sure the timing belt isn't wet with power steering fluid. if it is, you need to replace it as the fluid will degrade the belt. if you still need to replace the crank seal, or timing belt - the crank pulley is really tough to remove. it's probably going to take a breaker bar or a socket wrench with a pipe over the handle, that bolt is really tight and needs to be that way when you reinstall it as well. if it's an automatic, pull the bellhousing cover on the transmission, under the air intake/throttle body. rotate the engine until you see one of the openings in the flexplate. jam a 1/2" socket extension in there to hold it put as you loosen the 22mm crank pulley. for a manual trans put it in 5th gear and have someone hold the brake pedal while you try and get the bolt loose. you have an interference engine, so make absolutely certain the timing belt gets replaced if it's wet and the timing belt is reinstalled correctly if removed.

i wouldn't be surprised to see spark plug wire problems either, how old are they? are they Subaur or aftermarket? it doesn't add up but misfires are wires or coil packs a high percentage of the time. i was under the impression mike would have one he could swap, so it's not like he would have to order or go find one, it would just take a couple minutes.

just make it tigther, that's your only problem. you're not securing the engine or using the right tools. if you can't get it tight enough then locktite or torque wrench will help but they aren't needed. personally i'd just make it tigther i've probably installed this bolt at least 50 times. i use a 1/2" socket and a 2 or 3 foot pipe and crank that mojo. it's not coming off, heck i even slap them back on with the keys and pins sheared off or missing. they don't come off.

Mike, save yourself the effort and just swap in another coil pack and you're done in 10 minutes. On EJ engines plugs should be NGK stock and Subaru wires. The only good alternative is Magnecor, avoiding any and all store bought stuff otherwise is good medicine for non turbo EJ engines.

spare head gaskets.

Thanks, Dave you're so affirmative. :lol:

will you ship that dave? or do i have to come pick it up?

wow those two make a very good point. if by not being able to afford it you mean you're living at a high percentage of monthly income then that's a really bad place to be and a terrible financial decision and emotional risk. the loan becomes a huge liability to both of those. i pay cash for everything, i realize most folks can't do that, but at one time i couldn't either. with some good decisions it didn't take long to get there. just because everyone else lives month to month doesn't mean i have to. but i'm wierd, if i'm doing what everyone else is doing i'm probably not headed in the right direction!