idosubaru

how much of the improvement do we contribute to the larger MC verses the replacement of a 15 year old part and changing the fluid? the 15 year old MC probably wasn't performing like it was when new and the brake fluid was changed as well when installing the new MC. i wonder if replacing the 15 year old MC and giving the system new fluid might have helped more than having a larger MC? what is the stock EA82 size?

yes - just bolt up the drivers side head with the EGR port onto the non EGR engine. you could probably plumb your own line into the exhaust manifold as well and avoid the head work. i guess you have emissions so you can't but i remove them, why install something that makes the car less reliable?

i'd want them to diagnose it a bit better than that and find out exactly what is causing it. is it the transmission for sure? what part? the "ticking" in your old 98 outback was probably piston slap and, while annoying, isn't particularly harmful. but if this isn't piston slap, i wouldn't assume it's no big deal. i'd ask to drive another one on the lot and see if it makes the noise. if not i'd want a reasonable answer and documentation. how far from loosing the warranty are yoU?

yes, only came with automatics. that doesn't matter though they bolt right up to any early legacy manuals just fine. they are *technically* an interference motor, but they won't interfere, if that makes any sense!

if this engine previously had a blown headgasket - could that give it a false positive? maybe i'd have to drain all the coolant and refill? even still i probably wouldn't get all the old coolant and contaminated gases out? not sure how sensitive they are in terms of PPM?

don't do anything. if the head gasket job was done properly and the engine wasn't cooked the first time they went you've got a good motor that has a good track record for reliability. forget newer EJ25's - they're not a direct swap and you'd still be buying head gasket prone motors!?!?!? i'd much rather have an older one with new head gaskets than a new one with no new head gaskets. i'd say more on and call the motor good. keep up with the maintenance.

1988 XT non-turbo. When the engine is running there's a very slow trickle of bubbles coming through the overflow coolant reservoir. Like a bubble a second, it's not boiling. I hate to hear suggestions on what this is. But....these bubbles point to some head problem right - crack or gaskets? How can I track this down besides waiting for it to get worse!? Drop the exhaust manifold and see if coolant comes out of the exhaust port of the heads - does that work?

the ignition coil and igniter? i'd swap a used one in - there's hundreds of them laying around garages of USMB members all over the country. they're a dime a dozen and don't fail all that often. try a used one for a few dollars. i'd replace them one at a time so you know which one was bad.

something happened to this engine. unlike the EJ25 which can just start leaking and loose a head gasket, the EJ22 won't do that. you'll find that the original problem was not the head gaskets...but something else that caused the engine to overheat, it was driven that way and blew the head gasket. plan on replacing the water pump, thermostat, and hoses/clamps that look suspect, the radiator cap and testing and flushing the radiator. enjoy the legacy, i like impreza's but the legacy's are a nicer ride.

this post belongs in the parts wanted forum. just because another forum has more traffic does not mean that's the place to put it. i'm surprised a mod hasn't moved this yet? state your vehicle year, make, model and type of engine (there are multiple EA82's). not everyone will know which parts are interchangeable. i have EA82 TPS's but don't know if they'd work on yours.

warranty? was there a lack or loss of coolant? was the reservoir low, was the radiator low? why would the radiator cap be loose or removed on a 2007?

LSi is the high end legacy. i've got one. it's nice. electric sunroof, 6 disc changer (though annoying because it's under the seat), leather, and they have the EJ25....well i thought they did, you're saying the one you're looking at has a 2.2? mine had an EJ25, i thought the LSi had EJ25 only. maybe it's an LS and not an LSi?

define "bolt in". engine will physically bolt in - motor mounts and transmission bellhousing. the wiring and ECU won't be compatible though.

it was the lower intake manifold, the head was fine...or i THINK so!!! never wrecked. i had that intake shipped...it either came on a JDM engine i ordered or from an intake i bought from USMB or ebay, so i'm guessing maybe in transit. or i did something to it and didn't know it.

i was kind of worried about that too, thinking could that really cause it to run bad? but it did rev up with carb cleaner sprayed in the engine bay so i'm hopeful it helps. no JB Weld, i'm not convinced that stuff is good long term for automotive fixes. thanks for the suggestions guys, i had it fixed right away. i had another manifold in the garage so no sweat. i saved it in case i ever feel like welding it up. should be an easy weld, though i can't weld aluminum so i'll have a shop do it if i ever need it.

i've been wondering about these as well. how much output do they have? what year are they from? are they non-intereference? how hard are they to get parts for - sensors, timing belts, O2, cam, crank...etc....are all those the same as EJ how do they compare to the EJ22T in the early legacy's? i guess those are becoming hard to find and mostly abused/blown.

the hub is pressed in, so i'd avoid getting into all of that if possible. can you just drill two holes and bolt a new piece of metal there? metal is easy to cut to the size you want and bolt it on...make it aluminum so it doesn't rust!

i'm not sure. but someone posted a picture of the exploded view from a Subaru FSM of a rear EJ hub in one of the threads i started in the past year. it was about converting from drum to disc and was a view of the rear disc, hub and backing plate. if i wasn't on dial up maybe i'd think about searching for it for you. and yes it would be nice to have it there, because rocks and debris could get in there, but i've seen tons of them rusted off and missing. can you weld or drill? could you weld or bolt a similar piece of metal in it's place? i guess you're bolting to badly rusted metal so that's not going to work?

i agree, not a good idea and not the way to go about improving your braking. start by changing your fluid and getting better brake pads. the next upgrade would be larger brakes. tires...and of course driving style and getting that engine out of your trunk, etc. ABS sucks in the snow too...so you'll be left with maybe an improvement in an emergency condition but a guaranteed detrimental affect in the winter. that's a lot of work for all of that. not too mention the cheaper solution is to just buy a legacy or impreza, they can be had very cheap now and you get 5 lug, better motor, air bags, etc. buying one would be far cheaper than piecing together an ABS set up. the easiest retrofit option would be one from an EA vehicle. but that's also your worst option, older ABS systems are not that great. Subaru did have ABS in some XT6 markets overseas, don't know about EA's but none in the US. on 2000+ Subaru's it's pressed onto the CV. on pre-2000 subaru's it's on the hub.

if it's a benign part of the backing plate, can you just leave it there the way it is? i would think you could just put everything back together (new rotors, pads) and be good to go. then plan ahead for tackling this rusted part replacement. i've seen a number of rear rusted through backing plates..pitted, small holes, big holes, large chunks missing. ususally doesn't cause a problem. not ideal of course, be nice to have them there but there's thousands on the road right now like that.

this turned out to be interesting. carb cleaner made a noticeable difference in idle so it was obviously a leak. it seemed to make the biggest different right at the intake manifold/fuel manifold juncture. in other words not the gasket where the head meets the intake manifold, but above that a couple inches where the intake manifold meets the fuel rail manifold. it's typically left together as an assembly but it is two parts. awesome, easy fix! i already had those gaskets anyway. wrong! keeping in mind this car was all bolted together with no known obvious issues and ran fine.....look what fell off when i unbolted the intake manifold. the chunk circled used to be in the rectangular area, it was completely cracked off and just fell off when i took the manifold off. so that was my intake manifold leak.

check the timing belt for breakage or slippage. then i'd replace the cam angle sensor. sure, you can try cleaning it if you'd like. make sure the plug, terminals, and wiring all looks intact and clean as well. post in the parts wanted forum, someone on here will have one of those or the junk yards should have a few dozen. they're really cheap and rarely fail, not worth buying new. good luck! at some point clear the codes and seeing which ones come back.

AH! sorry, that wasn't referring to you at all. that reply was a general response to the entire thread...the misconceptions, lack of discussion and inaccurate analogies. i was partly joking too - about the "truth", since it's hard to determine even in a lab, much less in this thread.

i'd clean the IAC first, that's the most likely culprit right now. might not be a bad time for some fuel system cleaner to - i like marvel mystery or sea foam. if that doesn't do it i'd begin to wonder what kind of plugs and wires you used - the EJ engines are not forgiving of aftermarket wires. they *can* cause issues right out of the box. good luck!

so if this thing has continuity and tests fine for resistance (i think it had 75 ohms stamped on the sensor), am I to assume it's okay? any other test i can do? if I hook it up for a few minutes will i feel it getting hot?