idosubaru

ha! that's the article i read as well when i searched - but it was on MSN or something else...must be an AP thing or something like that. i found the commentary under the article more enlightening "i used 2 year old gas and it was fine". i'm still wondering if anyone *really* has actually experienced it. i'm not surprised it can go bad, that it degrades, or of the chemical complexity of it, of course it wouldn't last forever. and if it does cause problems, no start, poor running, bad mileage....what do people actually experience?

i ran it for a bit in a can and it seemed to come out fine...just like all the others i've tested before. i'll keep a mind to check that.

I've heard all the talk about old gas but I'd like to hear what actually happens when a car has problems with it. then there's the "this car sat for three years, i gave it a new battery and it started right up" threads. Online i didn't find much - yes it can go bad but it depends on lots of things..exposure to air, transport, refining, blah, blah blah. So - what really happens and does it ever actually happen? Does it start at all? Does it run bad? This is semi-related to a non-starting car I have now, but I've always wondered about this anyway and figured it would be good to learn/decipher the truth here in a separate thread.

1987.5 XT EA82. This car ran about two years ago. Trying to get it running for a friend to drive. On start up it revs to 2400 rpm for a few seconds then lugs and stalls out. Subsequent starts it will die instantly or BARELY hold idle at 300/400 (digital dash) rpms for a few seconds then stalls. Timing belts are definitely dead on, i've owned 20+ XT6's so i've got that down, not too mention i don't trust myself so i checked it a few times! Compression is good. No check engine codes. Don't think there's any vaccuum leaks - except the oil pump refill tube - the gasket at the base is missing. I've seen some EA82's not start/idle right due to vaccuum leaks but i don't think this is it this time. I'm starting another thread about gas - i've always wondered anyway.

Pump was not pushing any gas, nothing. even though it was "humming" fairly normal - though it sounded "less" than it's replacement pump. not sure if that means anything though, but the new pump solved it. also checked the sock - it wasn't clogged. that would have sucked.

EJ22's in general are really cheap ($500 is a lot for around here) - but the 1999 model is a real freaky joker and there aren't a ton of them out there. they are typically expensive. kind of an annoying update on a motor they were phasing out anyway?

your title says 1998 - but you're asking about a 1999. not a big deal but there were some motor changes in the 1999 version. there will be some compatability issues - you will definitely want to retain all of the 1999 electronics, so swapping the intake manifold will have to be done. the intake manifold itself will not bolt to the 1991 EJ22 engine. there's a chance the 1999 will not like the 1991 cam sensors/sprockets. if that is the case you'll want to try and use the 1999 cam sprockets on the 1991 engine. pretty sure you'll have bellhousing bolt issues - one will be 4 bolt, the other will be 8. not a big deal, it's still workable. i believe you'll have to just use one bolt for the starter (no big deal) or drill/tap the other hole (not hard either). the 4 holes line up with 4 of the 8 others. the 99 will have a screw on ATF filter as well. won't cause any issues - just a interesting difference for the 99.

you could probably just do the loyale trick again - front and rear (disc verses drum of course) brakes are all identical for EA82 i believe. then ask them for EA81 brake parts to make sure they're different...or verify they're the same - i don't know anything about EA81 stuff.

all things should be inspected - axle nuts, pins, whatever you touched/removed to replace the axle. search on here and you'll find that buying aftermarket axles is a waste of time. there are numerous accounts of aftermarket axles causing all sorts of problems. my guess is you got a bad axle. get a good subaru axle and replace the boots or order from MWE. anything else and there' a high risk of getting an axle with issues.

i've yet to pull one that had even a dirty sock, i would expect contamination is rare. i never could figure out how to remove them either - the OD of the top seemed larger than the ID of the nipple in which they set in the pump. but i guess it doesn't really matter, not like they're hard to clean out.

sounds like you got it figured out. i recently did the same thing though earlier model stuff. different engine, different intake, different vehicle - worked fine.

what kind driving are you doing? has the car ever been in a wreck? unless you're racing and really pushing the car it's hard to imagine this is your problem. most Subaru's from the 80's still have their original control arm bushings. a few are in bad shape, but most that i see are still intact and decent. i've yet to see any 90's or EJ soobs with bad bushings...i'm sure it's possible but it would be very rare and have to be caused by something. i'd do some more searching - maybe start a thread about trouble shooting this problem?

you already blew it up thinking about it - you better drop it off in WV, i'll take it.

yes, the pump is external - and i've done that before. yes, no fuel to the engine at all (pre-filter) you're basically correct - the fuel pump has a sock built into it! i haven't had a chance to mess with it yet but thanks for posting Robert M, looks like mine might be doing the same thing. car has little to no rust, low miles and hasn't seen much use recently so i'm not inclined to think the lines are in bad shape. i have extra pumps laying around so that shouldn't be a problem.

i think it could still be something else. sounds brake related. newer generation subaru's (like yours) don't use the same caliper for e-brake and your normal pedal operated brakes. so there's still a chance something is jacked up in there. with the rotor removed you should have seen the ebrake components right? then there's always the possibility of the ABS tone ring, sensor, or hub being rusty....check the clearances of everything and see if something might be rubbing. or a rock or something else could be stuck somewhere too?

a friend came to me after i told them not to go there (AAMCO). they said the car was leaking badly after they got it back. the new oil filter was crushed with two parallel straps on it...WHAT!? they tightened it with an oil filter wrench?!

Vehicle, miles, FWD, AWD.....???? When it comes down to it though bearings aren't a good thing to take a chance on really. Once they start to fail it doesn't take long for heat to destroy the grease and metal. Are you sure it's not a CV, wheel, driveshaft bearing, exhaust, or strut? Wheel bearings are usually described as a low pitch "road noise", or "growl" but you're saying high pitched. If it does it all the time, check both rear wheel center areas after a long time of driving and hearing it - the side with the noise (bad bearings) should be hotter than the side without. Of course that will depend on how bad they are, but they should be heating up. If you can definitely hear it on one side that helps rule out a lot of centrally located things like the driveshaft, rear diff, and carrier bearing. That being said...I have driven my Legacy for a few months and 5,000 - 10,000 miles on a bad rear wheel bearing so far. Ordered the part next week and it should be here any day. Someone mentioned recently that they finally detected a bad wheel bearing by jacking the car up and feeling the strut springs while rotating the wheel. The bearing wouldn't show any signs otherwise, but he could feel the vibrations through the strut springs to finally narrow it down to the bearing.

the intakes will not swap. i do not know but i would install the 98 intake manifold wiring harness onto the 2005 intake manifold. which is what i think you're considering doing since you mentioned swapping throttle bodies. i can't say whether they interchange or not but since you already have them both can't you have a look at them? i wouldn't concern myself with the DBW conversion either. doesn't seem to be much gains to be had there considering the effort involved.

my wife has placed a couple times too in her age group in some local triatholon's - it's not fair for me, they never let me place from the sidelines, i'm a great cheerleader. don't think she'll do too well now though unless they have "pregnant" age group. i understand intimidation or the mental aspect. lost in the finals, 11-10 in the tie breaker, of the state racquetball championships this year for the Mens Open division (highest).

thanks, i read the bottle and packaging and it said nothing? how stupid!? funny though - does that mean every time someone has an oil pump or other job requiring these sealants they wait 24 hours to get their car back. seems like people get their car back the same day on some things. not that i would know, it's been a decade since a mechanic has worked on any of my vehicles. i was asking more about how long the sealant takes to dry, but i've done that as well. i've pulled the oil pump and valve covers before as well while doing this just to get an idea of how quick it primes - it's very quick.

actually that's more common than you think, people on here have done that before. it won't hurt anything as long as you shut it off early enough. alone - it probably gets out less than just draining. surely the pick up (filter really) can't pull down to the bottom of the pan - which at least a pan drain will do. and it can't force any old fluid through into the pan because with the hose disconnected there's no pressure. so i don't see where this is even equal to a drain. but - you can pull both hoses - stick one in an empty bucket and the other in a couple gallons of clean ATF and turn the car on. this is how you do a complete flush yourself one time. never herad of it. unless there's problems i'm not sure people need it, so that's probably the lack of experience.

oh my bad - i meant would a 3 or 4 bike HITCH MOUNTED RACK be a nicer option than the trailer? that's what my wife and I use - we have a 4 bike hitch mounted rack. it's super for us. i'm not a fan of pulling trailers unless i absolutely have to. that just comes down to preference though.

EA82 MPFI XT with no fuel in the engine bay prior to the fuel filter. in diagnostic mode i hear the relay clicking and can hear/feel the gentle hum of the fuel pump as it cycles on. i added gas and tried again just in case there was some crazy way i lost fuel. no dice. car has very little rust, whatever it has is surface from sitting for the past couple years i've had it. so i doubt the tank is rusty. going to pull the fuel pump lines tomorrow and check it out. anything else i'm missing? any chance the pump is whirring but not making noise? can they seize?

I have a set of power/heated leather seats from a Legacy wagon. If I buy a newer legacy 2001-2004 that does not have these options - will the wiring be there to plug the power seats in? I know you can do this with 96-99 Legacy wagons - seems they all have the wiring harness available. I guess it might not matter since I have the entire wiring harness to go with it - but just in case i'm wrong it would be nice to know for sure.

yeah aint that funny! that's got to confuse some people, first timers, etc. i was probably confused the first time...i probably have a post 5 years ago about it!