idosubaru

i'm not familiar with it on the early legacy but IAC's typically control the idle (Idle Air Control valve = IAC). over time they just get gummed up with black soot and don't open or close all the way. typically you can just clean them out really well and reinstall, they rarely fail completely. how long has it been since it had a tune up - plugs and wires? typically you'd get a CEL with a cylinder misfire code for those, but it's still possible they need replacing. unfortunately the stock NGK plugs and Subaru OEM wires are best for the EJ22.

what? really?? that's bizarre. i noticed the spring loaded action of the disc inside that interrupts air flow, is that what you're talking about? it needs to be installed with hoses on each side, so how could i manually "open" that plunger with hoses on both ends?

this is most likely due to the XT6 having HLA's, most likely one was not operating properly due to being gummed up. frequent oil changes will correct this too...but it might take 100,000 miles! detergents help free them up. in the case of HLA's like this seafoam or a more agressive use of ATF added to the oil will clean them. but then again...adding ATF to the oil is another similar argument. HLA's do not tolerate dirty oil very well, it needs to be changed frequently to keep them operating properly. push rod engines are much more tolerating of poor oil maintenance, not that i recommend it obviously. some subaru's have HLA's, others do not.

I gave the AAV (or IAC) 12 volts and it does nothing. No click, buzz, humm or movement. Appears cleaned, just seems like the motor isn't working. I tried one spare that I had and it did the same thing - nothing. Am I expecting the wrong thing or are both of these shot? The one on the car sat for years, the other also sat for years (JDM engine). If I get another one - are the MPFI spider manifold valves different from all the others? I know they're located in a different position but didnt know if the actual part is different?

it's not as hard as it sounds once you think about how it works. the timing belt can't be off by 1mm. being a toothed belt it'll be off by one tooth, that's enough to make it obvious once you pay attention to what you're doing. you look at the mark, line it up straight up and down. once the belt is on you can then double check...is either tooth to the right or left of the mark closer to straight up (or down)? if so, you're off. it's not as hard as it sounds. also - the valve cover mating surface is a close reference.

people seem to do one way or the other. he may want to tap the additional starter mounting hole that isn't there rather than have only one bolt holding it in place. easy either way.

carbs suck no doubt, hope you get it worked out. clean and adjust everything youu can on that freaking carb - there's a reason companies don't use them any more. i just bought a tractor, one of my top priorities was that it was fuel injected. it's awesome, no more carbed mowing for me. FI weedeaters anyone!????

by 1998 - what are you referring to? legacy interior bits might not transfer as easily as impreza, but if it's a 98 impreza they'll swap right over.

hey tim, i skimmed this thread but how old is the gas? i just got done tinkering with my XT and found the gas was old. still not running perfect, but it starts and idles now where before it wouldn't start.

you'll want an EJ transmission to bolt up to the EG33. that will be any impreza, legacy or forester. the 1998+ transmissions will work as well but don't have the same number of bolt holes in the transmission housing (4 verses 8). but those 4 will line up with four of the 8 in the other. easy to work around that, but one extra step making it work if you want a 1998+ trans. the XT6 tach won't work on the SVX. the SVX is distributorless ignition where all the EA82 (your wagon) and ER27 (XT6) stuff is a distributor based set up. the XT6 tach takes the signal from the distributor which the SVX doesn't have. i do know someone that already has an EG33 in an older gen car, pretty sure he's got the tach running. none of the EA series engine stuff will work with the EG33. you'll want an SVX wiring harness and ECU or just wire it all yourself with a stand alone unit or MS it. are you suggesting you'd like to use the wagon's wiring and electronics? it's very antiquated, i assume you'll be taking it out? it would be best to have the SVX engine, wiring harness, and ECU to drop into the wagon. the svxnetwork might be a good option for engine controllers if you're wanting to figure out a way to do this. also - Numbchux has an EJ2EA swap post in the USRM - including a very detailed .pdf manual for it. the EG33 isn't an EJ22 or EJ25 and is way different, but it shares some things in common with them....the transmissions are interchangeable and the basic operations are the same - like the distributorless ignition.

there's no "truth" to be had though. intelligent discussion is good, but if it's not your style please don't regurgitate t he arm chair antics that this kind of stuff will blow your engine up. in a testing environment this would look something like this: a solid pulley will average 978,000 miles before causing failure that occurs on average at 980,000 miles on a stock pulley. it might be "true" but it's like saying driving with your CD case in the car adds weight and extra load to the engine, so you're shortening engine life. it's true from a technical, argumentative, stand point, but it's not realistic. but the significant fact is that the stock two piece pulleys often fail during the actual real world mileages that owners keep and use their vehicles. do a search here...you'll see people with failed pulleys. it's not 'common', but it happens. i've seen it as well. the "unicorn" is an engine failing because of a one piece pulley. the solution to both problems if it bothers you...is buying a new pulley from Subaru (which will still be a two piece), but a good option for another 100,000 miles.

first - what car, year, make, model, engine and how many miles and why are you wanting to do this? but in general it's not worth it on a subaru. if properly maintained the engines will last longer than the rest of the car anyway. not worth the risks (even though they are small). to answer your question, *** yes they "work" *** but please read on to define "work": yes, lots of deposits can come out of the car - but the key is that those deposits weren't hurting anything to begin with. pull off the valve cover on any car that has age or mileage....it's going to be black on the inside most of the time. that's the stuff that ends up in your oil pan if it's hit with powerful detergents. the deposits aren't on anything that matters or has anything to do with moving/sealing important internal engine components. that's why it's dangerous...why dislodge every piece of particulate matter at the same time when 99% of it is completely benign? if you suspect your engine is dirty inside the best thing in my opinion is to frequently change the oil, get the engine up to operating temperatures for a significant period of time (avoid only driving for short trips), and occasionally add a high quality cleaner like sea-foam. there are no miracle pills for engines or mystic goopity goop about engines.....factory recommendations are made for a reason and with subaru you can expect high mileage and reliability.

he answered that in the post above yours.

you will view the code on your dash - check engine light or O2 sensor, whatever your Legacy has. you won't read the LED on the ECU itself (that's for older generation subaru's - EA and ER engines). yours is an EJ (newer generation). the ECU is located under the carpeting where the passengers feet would be, pull up the carpet and remove the metal covering plate for access. it's easy to get to. also - if the check engine light isn't on you aren't likely to get any codes from the ECU. for a no spark - i'd want to check the coil pack.

oh come on...you're kidding right? you're just asking to stir the pot!?!?!?? the rubber is a dampening agent hence the term "harmonic dampener". it's meant to mitigate vibrations. beyond that it's all opinion. the facts are that reports of engine issues due to solid pulleys is nearly nonexistent - i've never heard of any nor do i have any friends having problems with them. actually...a common fix for the broken stock pulley is to weld it back together. i don't recommend that but tons of people do it with no ill effects. and i'm sure it's not lined up perfectly or balanced at all....still no issues. now...engine damage due to stock pulleys is well documented, happens regularly. take your pick....arm chair intellectualism or real world experience.

thanks Gloyale. good call dave, i'll do that while i'm cleaning it out. will check this stuff out tonight.

okay, that makes sense, but think about this for a minute. in the same way i wouldn't go applying subaru logic in your motorcycle forums, you might want to consider this. in the bike world - what applies to one bike may apply to every other make, model and engine, i do not know motorcycles. but that's not the case with cars, or even different Subaru's. what applies to bikes, does not apply to subarus. even further...i wouldn't make many of the statements that are true to Subaru's on a Honda, Ford, or Dodge Neon board. for instance - i would never tell those guys to use NGK. and if you really know what you're talking about you'll know that certain Subaru's are more forgiving of spark plugs than others - the EJ series engine being talked about here is not one of them though - NGK should be run in this motor. keep an open mind - what applies to one make, model or engine doesn't always apply to the rest.

that would be my opinion as well. that's a failure prone part (as encountered by anyone with more than anecdotal subaru experience). why not have a more reliable part, particularly for something that will strand you and cause severe engine damage on interference engines. i'm not really trying to argue either way, i'd be up for an honest discussion and open forum about the possible negative consequences. but this isn't really about experience or real world applications, more like arm chair engineering. not trying to flame or start a war, but the demeanor and lack of discussion bare that out and it doesn't help the OP.

i would think this would be a more consistent problem, not come and go. but that's why i asked those questions - if it's load dependent (outside temps, a/c, idle, driving, climbing, or others), then it could be a radiator.

oh great, i've seen that. should the throttle plate always be fully closed at idle, that was always my assumption - that's what the IAC is for. a good running engine should never need adjusted right? i did a motor and intake swap so maybe that has something to do with it.

rotating weight and vehicle weight are two completely different things. they are not related nor comparable. i'm sure there's plenty of reading on the internet about moment of inertia and rotating systems to explain this to you in some relevant way. the amount of weight in the rotating system does affect engine performance, period. the weight in the vehicle affects it to a much lesser degree. don't hear what i'm not saying though, i've made no claims whether the OP should get one, or whether i think they're worth it or not. i'll let him make that decision, hopefully on factual, credible information.

okay, - the idle air controllers are cleanable too. i've done that a zillion times on XT6's but they're a bit different. i don't think that's it, but i can't say why i think that! i'll give it a cleaning. the idle "isn't supposed to be adjusted", right? i'll save that until last unless that's considerable reasonable practice.

it's not the same. an intentionally unbalanced wheel does not replicate a system of balanced components. the crank doesn't need to have the same weight on each end, which is what you are referring too. i would point you in the right direction or explain how moment of intertia works but that's not really the point - it's obvious you have an axe to grind about this. highly opinionated commentary is only going to hurt a new person that doesn't know any better.

um, i don't think he's bolting a tin can to his crank. that's very inaccurate and muddies up the waters. there's no real-world significance behind making minor changes to rotating components. this shouldn't need to turn into an argument or oppinionated free-for-all. in the real world (not internet boards or sitting at a desk typing) this is done all the time, flywheels, harmonic balancers, crank pulleys, ligthweight pistons, light weight rods, cranks are reground when engines are rebuilt.....all of it is find so long as each piece is individually balanced and assembled corrrectly. not too mention the pulley is loaded with accessory belt loads that can vary as well. minor, yes, but so is what you're talking about.

i asked about that: and he seems confident it's all early gen legacy stuff, but i'm still wondering too.