idosubaru

hey andyjo, good to see you. this has been beat covered a bunch of times. there's a number of different ways including a very simple fix that doesn't require any time or tooling. exhaust work can get ugly really fast - i'd go with the 7/16" all-thread solution or a bolt. it'll thread in place without dropping the manifold and messing with any more exhaust stuff. otherwise yes you can helicoil it - 10x1.25 is the thread size of the exhaust studs and the size you need. if you're not using new studs make sure you chase them with a die or they might not thread well into your new threads. when using helicoils the exhaust manifold holes are two small for the drill bits to work through so you need to drop it all the way (at least it was on the ones i worked on). or you could drill the manifold big enough for the tools to fit through it, but that seems like extra work too. the 10x1.25 studs are available at auto parts stores - just take on in and match it up. they won't find a match in the parts look up or catalogs, so don't bother trying to find them - none are earmarked for subaru's. but they will have one that works. it's the exacty same length and thread pitch. the only thing is it has a center unthreaded section - just install that section closest to the block - so the part with the smallest amount of threads goes into the block hole. then the non-threaded part will just end up where the exhaust manifold is. if you don't - it ends up where the nut threads on. it's obvious when you go to do it - that's just the easy way to buy them locally and not pay very much.

if the diff stub is loose i'd look at that some more. can you jack up the front and make sure both sides spin properly...spin one side and the other spins the opposite way kind of thing? or see if one side diff stub has too much play (significantly more than the other)?

good news! wow - that car may have gone to the yard for that?! whoops, the motor is hosed - scrap it.

i didn't mean it like that. just letting you know i'm not guessing or "think it might be". to an extent there's always guess work but this is based on significant experience and you don't know that. you should question advice...based on some you've gotten particularly! that's common for the check engine light to come and go. they have thresholds (3 out of limits per 10 cycles...or something like that) and it's only meeting that occassoinally. it'll get worse with time most likely. the best advice you can get will be from people that know those vehicles, makes and the actual engine or sensors you're having problems with. the USMB can arguably outperform any shop in terms of subaru maintenance, repairs, and knowledge. that's a very weighty thing to say - but it's probably true.

they really inspect engines that closely out there? how often? shaking head and muttering bad things about CA......

did it do this before and after installing new axles? has it always done it, just started and has it always been the same or gradually getting worse? what brand axles did you use? new wheel bearings - how bad did those get before replacing? could the old ones have damaged the hubs? have you drained the diff fluid to check it for parts?

no that noise is not freaking out the sensor. have the heat shields repaired if it's bothering you - and yes those can be very loud and annoying. some 50 cent hose clamps will likely take care of them for quite awhile and take about 10 minutes (being very generous here with time!) to install. i've already told you! that was already answered as well - your knock sensor is failing. you need a new knock sensor. read the rubber material comment earlier. the sensor needs replaced for your Check Engine Light to go away.

in general no the knock sensor code won't cause significant problems. but then again if you're going to eventually replace (which you should, it's only going to get worse) then do it now. it's a part that's going to last the life of the vehicle, so do it now and get as much out of it as you can. that's probably one of the most common failure items on EJ engines, so i wouldn't worry about it too much in terms of a failure item. the rubber material breaks down and cracks. someone mentioned that they removed it - filled the cracks in with RTV sealant and reinstalled and the code never came back. not a bad idea and it's free (well $2 tube of sealant). and it's really easy to replace too. they are really easy to do yourself if yo'ure so inclined. no special tools and about 20 minutes tops. should be replaced with new - not used.

i like nippers idea of starting with tires. i'll add you can visually inspect for missing wheel weights, dented rims, or mud caked up underneath. but best to just rotate to the back and see if it moves. does it seem like it's from one side - that would indicate something non-trans related. trans would seem more central. wheel bearings? strut?

assuming it's a 1990 legacy then yes. if it's a loyale or some other EA/ER series then no.

yeah for real, my *head* is hurting. for real, i don't care, that wasn't even on the "this off topic is getting annoying" radar screen.

2003-2006 subaru compared to a 92 SVX - those price ranges are completely incompatible. 4WD donkeys. how many miles per acre? maybe i could avoid some mowing too...and save gas in the mower...free fertilizer....

okay thanks GD. you think it's likely this head will hold just fine? one inch crack sounds about right? *no warranty expressed or implied* haha!! i avoided picture because i'm on dial up - maybe i could post one tomorrow. i'm completely used to the cracks between the seats - i've yet to pull an EA82 or ER27 that didn't have at least one - but you think 1" is normal? thanks i'll reuse this head...except this little added tidbit now: realizing this isn't perfect - i already pulled the valve out - am i okay to just reinstall the valve, springs, and keepers?

how can i verify they don't extend into the water jacket before installing it? this is a JDM engine with a fabulous 30,000 mile unknown history. i installed it and it had head gasket symptoms on start up. replaced intake gaskets, no dice. pulled heads. since the crack goes from combustion chamber to exhaust port, essentially bypassing the valve doesn't that cause a loss of compression?

checking compression by hand is not at all accurate. i have an EJ22 (i believe it's a 1997) - a guy i know tested the compression and said one cylinder was low. a friend (also a board member) told me it was probably just the lash adjusters were bled down since the motor sat for awhile. i don't know what years do or do not have HLA's (actually i didn't think 97 had them), but maybe someone else can chime in. i'm with larry though, there's a good chance the engine is good and compression will be good. but i'd want to verify as well. i just put the engine i was talking about on an engine stand yesterday to try and verify as well. good luck - i'll be watching....

I've seen the EA82 (and ER27) cracks between the valve seats a zillion times, i'm very familiar with them. I decided to check this one out and removed the valves. The crack between the valve seats passes down into the exhaust manifold, very close to the valve seat and is about a half inch or more long. That sounds bad, i'm not encouraged to use this head. Does that sound right? Weird, this thing is only supposed to have 30,000 miles on it in a non-turbo vehicle. Cylinder number 1.

nip - with oil and antifreeze mixing probably should have the radiator flushed right? there's been other reports (on here i believe) by people seeing post 2003 head gasket failures. they made a point to blur our previous suggestions of 2002/2003 "end date". i imagine the 2.5 may have higher failure rates than subaru's of the past. still small, but higher than in the past where it was nearly zero.

the 1996 EJ22 is also a non-interference engine - so a 1995 or 1996 legacy with a 2.2 liter gets my vote. they're the best looking legacy 2.2's out there. don't let us mislead you - the SVX is actually a stand out in the reliability department - with the exception of the trans and bearings - but those are avoidable with proper precautions. it's the parts cost (non-mechanical/reliability related), rare car, and hard to find parts that make other cars better choices for a first car. with that in mind they are easy to get 200,000 miles out of without blinking (good luck doing that with a TR7!). the biggest detriment will be the prior maintenance from the previous owner(s). but you don't want it anyway and you're making a smart move - your kid would be miffed if you got it and he got a legacy! he'd be looking at you out the corner of his eyes every time he had to ride with you in it.

two trans connector plugs in the engine bay. disconnect and it should default to running in 3rd gear all the time and bypass all electronics. like you're thinking, i'm betting it does the same thing which probably means internal mechanical/hydraulic issues. have you checked to make sure the inhibitor switch and linkages are all good? that's the part the shifter cable is attached to on the trans. it's accessible from the passengers side under the car, you probably already know where it is. it's the assembly that actually "tells" the transmission what gear to go in - make sure it's all moving and working properly. some of them only have plastic tabs/clips to work with that crack easily. haven't seen one actually fail yet, but that's been a surprise to me they hold up as well as they do.

keep in mind she's got a $500 - $1,000 repair bill looming on that vehicle as well. it is coming due for a timing belt change, a common time for people to sell. you probably know but this is an interference engine so the belt needs changed on time (105,000) or before. at 8 years old you aren't replacing it too soon to do it now. with such large change intervals on these engines it's best to replace the water pump with it. otherwise you're expecting the original pump to last 200,000 miles (next belt change) and 15 years, that's too long. if you can do it yourself you can do it for $200 for the belt and pump. dealer will charge around $700. good luck!

DOJ of the front axle is a good one to check out. that sounds more likely to me based on what i read in your post and all the times i've ridden in soobs that have had both items fail (ujoints and CV axles DOJ). did it gradually come on or just all of a sudden start one day? if it is you'll want to replace it soon - i drove one too long and the vibration killed the speedo gears inside the transmission case - turns out they're plastic and that DOJ joint on one side is nearly adjacent to them, although the case is between them. they're internal to the trans so trans replacement is required to fix. you can crawl under and grab the driveshaft looking for ujoint play. also have a light handy, if they're seized they'll be stiff as a board and not move at all. this failure won't feel like anything, but you might be able to see it if you look really close at the actual ujoints and know what to look for. if you remove the driveshaft you won't need to drive around - it'll be really obvious which joint has failed. it'll either be seized, very sloppy, or lumpy feeling when moving it by hand. i'd replace the axle with used or rebuild it with Rockford ujoints (they make one that fits). and the CV axles i'd replace with an MWE unit or try and find an original subaru in good shape and reboot it (not what i would do but take your pick!). aftermarket axles are extremely low quality (read all the threads on here about it "i bought a new axle and it....still vibrates...blew up.....leaks...).

hey mike - i'm in morgantown too!?!? i'd check those vaccuum lines again - the main ones that you would have come in contact with around the air box anyway. hopefully you used Subaru (or magnecor) wires? these engines are notorious about not using any aftermarket brands for ignition wires and NGK plugs. this is only true of the EJ engines (Like yours), not Subaru.

have her check the ATF before you make the long trip? Any check engine light? autozone/advanced/other places will read those for free. reach around all the spark plug wires while the engine is running and see if she gets shocked!? i like to replace the plugs and wires at the same time. these engines get funky when you start pulling off wires and reinstalling them. they can be unforgiving. make sure they are seated perfectly or just take a spare set with you. aftermarkets won't work either if you suspect the wires when you get there. i've seen brand new ones cause the same problem you're describing. it's subaru or Magnecor for the wires. the treatment and ATF is a good call. take that fuel treatment/water absorbing stuff with you.

ha ha!!! problem solved. we need a new forum "How to talk to people that don't know Subaru's"

try unplugging the trans completely, it should drive just fine in 3rd gear. i drove mine like that for quite awhile - but mine was an XT6 - that EJ22 might lumber a bit more starting out in 3rd than the XT6? or maybe it's better, should be driveable though.