idosubaru

check for spark during the "No start" condition. my guess is you don't have any. check for spark at each plug, then at the coil. when was the last tune up - plugs, wires, cap and rotor?

that's the one causing your no-start condition, start tracking that down. seems like it's starter circuit related. the FSM would be a good place to start on this one...memory isn't kind but starter, solenoid, ignition, relays, battery cable may all be a good thing to check here. the starter/solenoid assembly is my *guess* though. i bet a whack or two with the hammer may free it up when it's acting funny.

legacy's are so easy to find cheap that i wouldn't waste my time with a conversion, but that's up to you. it'd be easier to fix it, sell it, and find the manual you're looking for. but there's never one thing that fits every ones situation either. sometimes the "if it aint broke, don't fix it" line is a good one...sounds like you might want to keep running that 300k GL for awhile, there's just something going right with that car! the axles will be a bit of an issue, but that's workable as well.

not that i want to do this (i just bought a lift kit!), but curious since i'm in "strut class" at the moment but how do they lower cars? is it the strut, springs, or both that are different?

great, thanks guys. glad i know a bit more about this now, being the first one i've seen like that. it's got another non-leaking strut on it now so no worries for the time being.

the XT was never offered in 1989 with a turbo. 1987.5 was the last year for the XT Turbo. read your codes, that's probably going to lead us in the right direction. set the trunk so you can pop it. run car until the Check Engine light comes on...leave the car running while you pop the trunk and read the little blinking green light in the trunk. it will have slow and fast blinks - the first set each count as "10" each. the second set each count in "1"'s. so if it blinks 2 then 3....that's a 23. if it blinks 4 then 5 - it's a 45. copy that? all the codes are probably posted here and on subaruxt.com. check out us over there. if you register, send me a note with your user name and i'll check on your registration.

those two vehicles engines and transmissions are not interchangeable directly. it's not hard (define hard?), but it will require some work. the dual range in the legacy will require an adapter plate and some minor work to get it to fit. the EJ into the GL will require the complete wiring harness, ECU or converting it to carb (bleh!). you didn't say how many miles were on the legacy. 300,000 is a lot of miles. people are going to post about knowing someone with one that has twice that many or something like that, but in reality they start having issues at some point and you're past that point! to make 400k or 500k would be the exception, not the rule....but hey, it's cool to be the exception!

those dirt bags - i wondered what was up with that - selling those freaking new ones that need screws! nice info!

i don't know anything about struts/shocks - what happens as they fail? will the strut, give, break, dive...or what? anyone had this happen? i'm surprised as much leakage as i saw that i didn't notice any symptoms...seemed to perform well, though i did hear a very slight "rattle" on hard bumps and such, maybe that was the strut?

What the???? i posted a thread last night and when i checked this morning the thread wasn't there? i looked under "New Posts" - "New Generation" and even searched under my username? I assumed it was lost and started this second one? Thanks nip. i've never done a strut before....probably something to do with 15 years of the XT6 air suspension! you retain the top hat and coil, but replace the strut, is that how it works?

My 1997 Impreza Outback Sport front right strut appeared very wet, like it has been "leaking" for some time. I know there's oil internally, so I guess it can leak? What causes that and what problems would that cause? Didn't really notice any performance loss. Would it make any noises or anything? Can they "fail" more than that - what happens if it all leaks out? I already swapped it out with another (dry!) one, but curious about it since i've never seen it before and wondering how they work.

the separator plates are all the same, but the newer ones also require different screws some times (or all the time?). not sure if that depends on the "old one" or not?

note: i don't know much about struts. a front right strut in a 97 Impreza Outback Sport is very wet, looks like it's leaking? i guess oil from the strut. how does that happen, what causes it, what problems would it cause, etc? i ended up swapping it out tonight but just curious about it.

missing information - is the 1998 an EJ25 or EJ22? Legacy's had both that year. That will make a big difference. the 98 will most likely have EGR, so that will be the first problem. he can remove it and live with the Check engine light. to keep it you'd have to drill and tap the engine block for the EGR valve. there are more but you didn't say which motor.

use Subaru OEM on the head gaskets. actually i like Subaru all the way around on everything for this EJ25 job except the timing belt pulleys (more on that below). unlike the EA82 this is an interference engine. being that and it's nearly 10 years old i'd carefully inspect all the timing belt pulleys. replace any that are noisy or spin too freely. keep in mind they need to last another 100,000 miles (next timing belt). i'm a big fan of just buying the Ebay timing belt kits - it comes will all new pulleys and a new tensioner. i'd rather have all new than one new and the rest 10 years old and lacking grease. i sometimes use the pulleys and still buy a Subaru belt. the reasons are a few. one being that it's interference like i already mention, more valuable (newer), and the timing belt intervals are much longer. with an EA82 you can inspect them every 60,000 miles and replace them at 120k or 180k...but with these the timing belts are every 105,000. these pulleys already have some miles (and overheating) on them, and you're expecting an additional 100,000. my suggestion is to either crack into it at 50,000 to inspect or just put all new stuff in there now. most people paying to have it done aren't going to "inspect it" so i just suggest going all new. ebay kits are nice because very few people actually want to pay $500 just for a couple pulleys from subaru and i'd rather have all new than some new and some old. have the valves adjusted while it's at the machine shop. no brainer stuff - reseal the oil pump and replace the cam seals and valve cover gaskets. all very easy to do, particularly once the timing belt is off. check the oil pump backing plate screws. any that are loose, put locktite on the threads and reinstall them tight.

you're replacing the head gaskets on that 116k joker right? this is probably something you don't need to do but i just did it this week since i'm new to this area. i called the Subaru dealer and asked who they have do all their machine work. the place is 30 minutes away in a small town, but i'm going with the experienced guy over any of the shops in town. so i called, got their information, hours, and how they like to do things - drop off, turn around time, etc.

interesting. the funny thing is that some import motors have EGR when US doesn't and some import motors do not have EGR when the US model does? zero consistency, nice! i run regular, but i didn't reinstall an EJ25.

figured i'd post since i'm a part of this group buy as well but haven't posted to this thread yet. looking forward to it.

interesting, the 1996 EJ25 Legacy LSi sedan i pulled the motor from had EGR on it - DOHC EJ25 with EGR. mine was an auto - was yours a manual? i installed the new motor without any EGR stuff, i'm very excited about that. i've had to deal with EGR lame-ness and unreliability in the past. no more!

i was under the impression that there were some fuses that instantly broke. and then there were other types that were designed to fail with a load over a period of time, but not instant. i thought the fusible links were of the latter variety and the inside fuses were of the first.

don't worry about it. he's just talking about the oil sitting behind the seal/cap that may come out when you replace the oring and seal. very little oil comes out when you do this job so i wouldn't worry about it. i can't ever recall much at all coming out, i've certainly never thought of it as a "problem". pull the seal and wipe a few drops of oil that come out.

there's an SVX network - a dedicated forum for the SVX. yes the auto transmission burn out with good regularity. if you can get a good transmission in the car, just change the fluid and install an aftermarket transmission cooler, that will keep them from failing. they are picky about wheel bearings too. the biggest deterent to the SVX is the very expensive maintenance and hard to find parts (which makes them expensive). mind you...i hear all the time from american car guys about how expensive "foreign cars" are. i'm not talking about that - SVX stuff can be through the roof and tough to find. go price a windshield or TPS or Idle controller..... awesome cars, just learn the quirks. the motors are very, very reliable...keeping in mind an old one could be 10 years out of maintenance and need some upkeep.

woah frank! nice hit, never heard/seen that one before!? it's probably fine, but personally i'd prefer the existing system - it protected it this time right? it worked and did it's job i'd rather not mess with that. but it's your car and i'm an electrical goober which will heighten my sense of what to do or not do! i (and others) have tons of old ones, i can probably send you one if you tell me the color? i keep them all from old parts cars just in case since Subaru wants like $10 a piece for them and often doesn't have them in stock.

Verify which motor it is - they both have very distinct failures modes. The SOHC EJ25 was in all 2000's and some 1999's - someone here can verify? SOHC (some 1999's)- you don't look for overheating - you look for external leakage at the rear of the head to block mating surface. DOHC (1996-1999) - these overheat. make the test drive as long as possible and get it up to operating temperature quickly or just let it idle awhile before you actually leave the lot. the overheating is random and can happen any time or not happen at all. it's not an easy one to spot when they first start...which is also a prime time to dump the car, so keep the eyes peeled. torque bind. 1999's have some bizarre (bizarre that they mostly happen in 1999's only for some reason...and a few 2000's) transmission and speedometer issues. make sure the speedo works and look for a noticeable delay in shifting from park to drive or various other combinations of shifting. pay particular attention when starting the car up cold....you know *cold* down there, right!?!?!

it's difficult to find a definitive list...i've searched, and looked and blah blah blah, there isn't one as far as i know. you just have to go with the general ideas about make/model. like 1998 Legacy OBW AWD Auto...that should be a 4.44.