idosubaru

oh yeah...sign up for a class in vibration and flutter, or system dynamics or just look it up on line! now i'm curious - can a properly function car/exhaust still start a fire? back in my younger years i used to think it was cool to leave all the mud fling and grass stuck in my car while i was driving around after a day in the field. since you're in the fire business - why is it that cars with massive oil leaks don't catch on fire more often even when it's dripping and "burning" or smoking on the exhaust? there's any number of threads about smoke machines and smoke filling cabins...but rarely a fire.

hhhmmm, i have one...and i know i don't know how to use it very well so i guess i fit in one of the lasts two categories!!! probably depends on the job i'm attempting!

i'm glad i know this now before i've had a fire! i didn't know heat shields were that important. i am surprised they make any difference though - have you ever seen a car that's been off road in the nasties? i drive through fields all the time, grass stuck everywhere, been buried in mud, mud and water pouring into the car when i open the door, had it stuffed all up underneath with grass, mud, and debris in every corner and crevis available. i don't think heat shields keep that stuff away from the exhaust when you're in that much stuff. grass and mud find it's way into every opening available. it's hard to imagine doing any real off road driving without having grass in contact with the exhaust...even with a heat shield. i've never had a fire in all my years of off road driving. i'm glad i know now that, i'll be sure to keep an eye when i'm off road - which is every fall at a minimum.

i wouldn't be surprised if it's not even trans related - so i wouldn't plan on a swap just yet. a fluid flush/change is certainly in order. at least change the fluid a couple times if you're afraid of the flush. ATF is expensive and changing a few times can be a PITA, so flushes aren't bad just from a cost and convenience factor even for us wannbe "mechanics". although i've never gotten one, but i would consider it. i'd make sure all the tune up items are addressed. plugs, wires, PCV at least. keep in mind EJ vehicles are much pickier than EA stuff on plugs and wires - best to use NGK plugs and subaru wires on these. and for the trans shifting issues i'd pay attention to the following: clean (or replace) the EGR valve and replace that little tiny filter that's in line with a vaccuum hose on the passengers side of the engine bay (it's only $7 from subaru). i've seen that filter cause erratic transmission shifting. i have no idea why but it does. that's also why i removed the EGR from my legacy, annoyingly stupid system that decreases reliability???? yeah i'll pass on that, i don't care what it does.

yes, assuming nothing really funky is going on (doubt it). all you need to do is control the duty C circuit (one wire!).

pull the engine, it is much easier. particularly for a one time job or a first timer. either way won't make much difference for a first time job anyway. all things being equal (experience, rusted bolts, etc) pulling the trans is the fastest way, but probably not your first time, that will be a learning experience. without some serious motivation you'll be annoyed, depressed, and not wanting to do the work or be persistent. it's uncomfortable, lighting sucks, room sucks...it just sucks. but all things being equal there's no way anyone can pull an engine faster than a transmission. you won't avoid rusted bolts necessarily by doing the engine - one of my worst experiences was pulling an EJ25. rust wasn't even that bad but multiple exhaust studs didn't want to come out, sheared off...it was all the way around.

that's it, that's all the questions you have? the XT6 rear stuff is completely different from EJ, not swappable without major customizing, machine, welding, fabricating or something along those lines. get any EJ rear disc stuff for the impreza. XT6 manual trans will not bolt up to the EJ engine. you'll need an adapter plate to make that happen. the front EJ axles should slide onto the XT6 trans. the XT6 will be a 3.9 final drive. i forget on the impreza, but i think it's either a 3.9 or 4.11. that should be easy to look up - there's a long list of EJ final drive ratio's for manual trans that a search will bring up. just swap the XT6 rear in it's place if it's different.

good call Gloyale, i'll bet that's right! BEWARE - THIS GUY WORKS AT A TIRE SHOP!!!!!! just kidding - but man does that sound like flats waiting to happen!!?? heat shields are benign anyway. i rip them off, much easier than dealing with them. i understand the concept, but they certainly aren't needed. and if you had an exhaust shop completely replace your exhaust, they wouldn't bother installing a heat shield unless it came already bolted to the exhaust (which it wouldn't!).

don't be too surprised at my intelligence - i'm assuming this is AWD? okay, seriously is it an auto or manual? if you have access to a tow dolly, particularly if it has brakes, then definitely use it. load the car and disconnect the driveshaft. it's really easy - 4 12mm nuts where the shaft meets the rear diff and you're done. tow it like you stole it!! owners manual is probably in the glove compartment and will describe towing options in there.

warranty? i had ABS issues and found everything i needed here, including links to Subaru's ENDWRENCH website with detailed instructions on pulling the codes myself. just jumper a wire in a harness plug that's right above the gas pedal and the ABS light blinks the code to you. it was very easy to do. mine ended up being a front ABS sensor, i replaced it and all was well. not sure the 2006 models are the same, haven't had to do one of those yet (shouldn't have to!??!?!?! is probably what you're thinking too!!!) my suspicion is that the tone ring or sensor are dirty or fouled. the sensors are magnets, if they some how come into contact with metal they will attract all of it and i imagine that miffs them up. it may be as simple as being dirty. But - being a new car you need to read the codes, either yourself or have the dealer do it. new cars aren't subject to typical wear&tear stuff so they're causes tend to differ from older models.

unless you're planning on replacing the gasket or find one with them already replaced the 99 SOHC are better for reliability. as long as you keep coolant in them and don't let them run low they won't overheat and can keep running a very long time. once the DOHC fail it's instant overheat problems and you're stranded = annoying. if you can deal with it, find one with an already blown head gasket, they're easy to find. saw a forester last week - $1,400, and they'd take less. last EJ25 vehicle i got for triple digits and it was in immaculate condition. great way to end up with a great car - for cheap.

checking the MAF and ignition wire connections sounds like a good start. then clearing and reading the codes.

have any oil-based air filters ever been used on this car - K&N, cone filters, etc? those oils can foul the MAF sensor. cleaning should help if that's the case. stores sell MAF sensor specific cleaner. and i have found faulty MAF sensors by removing them and looking at the hair thin wires that are threaded through the intake passage of the MAF sensor. a broken wire will mean the sensor is bad obviously and needs replacement. check the connector of the MAF sensor, makes sure it's seated properly and not dirty/corroded. when chasing multiple codes that show up around the same time there's a few tips: it's best to clear them and then check which come back or come back first. it's best to track down the most common codes first. cylinder misfires are common on EJ engines, MAF sensor failure is not. but that's not to say it isn't kaput of course. misfire causes have already been listed - plugs, coils, ignitor. were NGK plugs and Subaru wires used at 90k? i've seen brand new non-OEM wires, as well as not very old ones, cause issues many times on EJ engines...hence my earlier comments.

What is the tune up history of this vehicle? I would start with new spark plugs and wires. Unless they're new already - then make sure they're in good shape and properly seated. Best to stick with NGK plugs and Subaru wires. That's true of the EJ series Subaru engines, they're not very forgiving.

might want to take a picture of the family members 08 that you like and show that to them at the dealer. welcome to USMB!

when you fire it up with starting fluid - is the check engine light on once running? pull the codes? after some ill-attempts at starting have you pulled any plugs? i'm curious if they're wet (getting fuel)? gas shelf life is quoted as 28 days in some places. i wouldn't think that matters, but throwing it out there.

cool cars, my wife totally loves hers even though i've asked/offered to upgrade to a newer, trimmed legacy. but she likes it too much. the space in the back yet small size make it a great utility type vehicle. easy to throw a hitch on, roof racks, we can put both our bikes inside the car if we want. and it's not huge like a full size wagon. and of course the EJ22, can't beat that. i hardly think i have to mention this to you, but keep in mind that 1997 is the first year of interference EJ22's - so you'll want to check not only the timing belt but the pulleys and water pump as well. even if the car has 20,000 miles that stuff may be 10+ years old.

welcome aboard to USMB! No, if everything is working properly you do not want to drive around in 4WD. Frankly you should never use it except for snow, ice, or off road. It is true 4WD, driving it in 4WD will break things, eventually the transmission.

no clutch cables are rare failure items. i would guess there's some additional load on the clutch and it's causing it to wear to have two of them break. i've seen this before and never did figure out why the clutch was harder than most XT6's to put in...it just was. clutch worked and operated fine, just was tight. it broke once and i replaced it and it never broke again. broke in the same place yours sounds like it did. .or it could have been just plain bad luck

actually - if the rotor diameters are the same then that would be a definitive yes too.

do you remember the calipers? the 95 could have just single pot calipers where the 99 will have dual pot front calipers. that won't be interchangeable. if they're the same number of pistons per caliper they'll be interchangeable though (not true of all subaru's - just in this case).

that's a good point, they wouldn't win any competitions on the matter for sure. so how does a "new soob owner" determine if it's nothing or something?

oil change, tune up and some inspections are in order. i would be surprised if that cures it entirely though. i'd want it figured out, to at least know exactly what it is witihin 2-3 weeks, well before the 30 day warranty. i'm not over familiar with newer EJ25's but many of the older ones can develop piston slap. search this forum or the internet for piston slap and see if that's what yours sounds like. at one point subaru even had a different piston to install on vehicles they repaired with this. again, not sure if this applies to yours though.

if you could post pictures that would help a lot. if it's just the cross member, i agree that removing, repairing car, and bolting another one in it's place is your best bet. getting this repaired that it won't be bad again in a year or two and/or that it will be structurally sound is going to be very difficult. it's hard to find good metal, hard to weld, it's hard to get rid of all the rust, it's hard to keep the rust from coming back. that's a lot of work. i'd probably keep the repair/solution as simple as possible and plan on getting another car in a couple years rather than planning on this rust repair lasting long. i'm not recommending it (i can't even see it!) but if the rust isn't that bad, just find someone who will pass it (ask around, etc). good luck and hang in there, sounds like a lot of work.

i didn't see your username on the subaruxt forum so i couldn't approve you. if you haven't been approved yet, tell me your username and when you signed up.