idosubaru

i'm not sure that the test completely rules out the sensor. have you read the knock sensor installation procedures? there are two key steps...just "installing a sensor" is not appropriate. the sensor is supposed to be installed at a particular angle and at a particular torque. i do not know why, but that's how it's intended. someone else just had a knock sensor code last week and reinstalled the same sensor (properly) and the code went away. i'd pull the sensor and have a look. the sensors don't fail internally, it's just the rubber housing that cracks and deteriorates. it's very easy to remove. pull yours, check for cracks on the bottom and reinstall it properly - get the angle right and the torque on the bolt right.

okay, cool. by boot being torn that could be a couple things - a steering rack boot, tie rod boot, or axle boot. which are you talking about. in general - it's best to start with and address known issues first. so the noise could easily be related to the broken boot. let us know which of the broken boot scenarios i listed is your problem - take a photo if you're not sure what everything is called. if your engine is leaking oil and it's dripping on the exhaust you need to replace the leaking seals. be a good idea to look and track down the oil leak - the valve cover gaskets are really simple to change and they are known to leak over time, particularly at your mileage. the rear passengers side cam cap oring is also an oil leak fiend and only takes about 5 minutes to replace - check it! i'm about to do oil seals behind the new timing belt in my wife's car and one i picked up for my grandmother. i always have the seals/orings on hand to replace while the belt is off. a good mechanic should know to do that. who did your last timing belt and did they replace anything else? if not they didn't do a good job. a timing belt job should include any of the following that are leaking or too old: - water pump (yours needs replaced - expecting an original water pump that 10+ year old and 200,000 miles to last 300,000 is excessive. - cam seals (2) - cam oring (1) - oil pump oring (1) - crank seal you said before the power steering was leaking....is this still the case, was that a guess or is that fact? this is a great engine - one of subaru's best. if you take care of it (don't run low on oil and don't overheat) you can see 300,000 out of it - so the additional expense is not excessive in this case.

maybe they were cheaper, marketing thing? this isn't why they made them, but 40+ mpg is appealing to a few.

i'd figure out what the closest subaru rich areas are (colorado)? it's not hard to find one that at least runs for $300 - $600. get what you want (engine/trans) and you've got everything in one package. you can have a completely redone and reliable car...timing belts, water pump, timing bearings, seals, valve covers....all for under $1,000. of course keep your eye open locally, the one thing going for you is they tend to linger longer in areas where subaru's aren't popular. it's like gambling....it's just hit or miss if the perfect vehicle will come available or be cheap.

subaru steering racks are very reliable. so reliable that replacing with a brand new steering rack is pointless, it's way overkill even on a newer car, much more so with something having 220,000 miles. if you do have rack issues then i would replace with a used unit and buy new tie rod ends. steering racks aren't hard at all to replace. with the exhaust manifold dropped out of the way there's only: 2 fluid connections (14mm and 17mm nuts) 4 bolts for the steering rack bushing brackets a 12(?)mm bolt for the steering linkage 2 nuts for the tie rod ends the only hard part is getting your steering wheel properly aligned as it will be off when removed. if the FSM doesn't have a way to do it, next time i'm thinking i'll mark full right or left somehow and install the new rack that way if possible. keep in mind how difficult it is to help over the internet. the more specific you can be the more we can help you. can you do any of the work/diagnosing yourself? are you asking how to replace or diagnose the rack or more? are you asking if there's other possible problems? "was leaking boots cracked"....does that mean it's not leaking any more and no longer has cracked boots? was = past tense? what symptoms do you actually have - if you're not sure i'd start there. we can be of more help with more info.

thanks NW. i do not have a fuel pressure gauge/tester, but now i know how to use it if get one! in diag mode (green connectors) the pump cycles on/off perfectly and fuel flow appears normal. at the engine. haven't had a chance to look at it any more than that...hopefully tomorrow. thanks guys.

there's a wide range. it could be done for $100 or $1000 just depends on your area and resourcefulness. i can get engines/trans for $150, but other areas they are much harder to come by and price escalates. it's not hard to find an EJ vehicle very cheap - wrecked, rusted, bad trans, bad engine...etc. i've been offered some freebies before even. that's the easiest way to do a swap anyway, just have the entire vehicle there. putting a swap together just by using parts is the long way around.

man i barely think about it - i think it's all III now isn't it? III meets all the requirements and spec's of II.

The major difference is the turbo verses non-turbo. a car without a turbo (but everything else the same) as yours will have the opposite spline count. pretty sure all turbo's are the same....and i think it's 25 spline, i'd just hate for my memory to be playing tricks. i'm surprised no one piped up yet. Subaru RX's (1988 for instance) are all turbo - so any axle from one of those would work as well. I highly recommend MWE (they've posted here before). He'll know exactly what axle to send you...and you'll avoid all the after market nonsense.

speedometers aren't very consistent. i've actually had a number of subaru's that have a MORE accurate speedometer when i increase the tire size. so i wouldn't rely on the tire size calculators for those. best to carefully manage mile markers on a very long road trip or borrow someone's GPS. - mine have varied from 0% - 10% when i increased tire size, but the tire size calculator didn't necessarily predict it correctly. for the highways - you'll notice going 105 miles instead of 100 - that would be about 5% off. meaning when you're speedo shows 50 you're actually going 52.5. do that a couple times and you'll narrow down the percent

Is there an owners manual in the glove box? I would think it's just regular ATF, like all the 97's I own? Does it have the spin on filter of the newer style transmission (that came out in 98/99)?

Might want to search on here - for some reason my memory is tricking me so i don't want to say what i think, but i do know the information is already here. One way to make sure is that your turbo transmission splines are identical to the XT6 and they are all the same (FWD, AWD, auto, manual, doesn't matter). So if you look up an XT6 (6 cylinder 2.7 liter) front axle and figure out the spline count - yours is the same. that being said - i'd recommend MWE or Subaru axles only - aftermarkets are plagued with issues. just do a search here for "axle" and see all the problems.

why are you replacing the strut? Struts can cause very bad vibrations and noises (just replaced mine for those reasons a couple weeks ago). if it seems centrally located then i'd wonder if the DOJ (CV axles) is going bad on one of them. Have you checked both inner joints for broken boots? Have you checked your front diff fluid (dipstick, hard to see on the passengers top of the trans, accessible from the engine bay). A drain and refill of the diff would be in order if you suspect the trans, and i'd want to look at/strain the fluid to see how much metal comes out with it.

Wheel bearing? After driving for a bit and experiencing said issues (particularly the dragging) - get and out feel both front wheels. If a wheel bearing (or even brakes) are bad one side may be significantly hotter than the other...even to the point of turning red and smoking if it gets really bad. A quick touch on each side might help narrow it down. Does it feel like it pulls to one side when it's doing this? Does it sound like it's on one particular side? What's the history of CV axles on this car - have they ever been replaced? How do you know it's not brakes?

that's why it's good to know about these things and make decisions accordingly. it may not matter to some people. but a high percentage of people don't go buy an inexpensive car, but extend themselves to get what they want. for those, having a $1,000 - $2,000 repair bill within a year isn't ideal. i've seen those posts here...and on local cars for sale. it's sad seeing someone in debt for a car they can't afford to fix and no reliable transportation. bad decision - yes, that's why it's good to get the info out there. including the info that this is a good car/engine - and a good fit for many people to, like yourself!

congrats to your friend for making a good financial move...i see too many people overextending themselves. my best friend bought his 4runner years ago with 60,000 miles - it now has 250,000 and he's never replaced the timing belt. dealers charge insane prices, but as long as people are dumb enough to pay you can't blame them. the "package" or "mileage" deals are horrific. they make a long list that sounds like a lot but takes about 13 minutes and charge $1,000. "check front brake pads, front rotors, rear pads, rear rotors, emergency brake, windshield washer fluid, brake fluid, trans fluid, differential fluid, valve cover gaskets...." all pretty much worthless stuff and then they'll throw a couple worthwhile items in there too - but it's mostly BS for $1,000. last legacy i bought was like that, i got all the receipts from the previous owner. poor girl got wrecked with insanely ridiculous expenses.

drivers side rear of motor - there are other threads with excellent pictures posted. there's a search button up above, playing with that will answer any questions you have - including how to install it properly, how to replace, why they fail, where to buy..etc. the one with pictures is really nice. actually at the bottom left of the page you're looking at right now...see, down there...are other similar threads listed.

the OP lives like 5 miles from my last house, we chatted. funny stuff! "lemon" is overkill to define the EJ25. many people on here love them and a few hate them. opinions aside, it's best to know what the issues are and purchase accordingly. funny thing the OP has a 96 EJ22 5 speed now....fantastic combination. although he has a no start condition!

woah, time to freshen up my fluids and hydraulics lingo! so just pinching the fuel return can make it run? if the FPR is busted it it will prevent enough fuel from getting to the injectors? good call, that's easy enough. i've got a 5 gallon can and the rear of the car is already up with the pump dangling. should be simple enough to try. The FPR is BURRIED on this thing, basically have to remove most if not all of the intake manifold....GRRR. i'm going to do some searching about EA82 FPR's. i think the first thing i'm going to do is try some starter fluid and see if i can get it running that way - that would be the easiest way to verify it's fuel supply related. and i'll try the pinched hose too for kicks.

hmmm...clamp the return line - why does that work?

awesome, thanks for the feedback. this is why i removed the EGR on my last engine swap = fewer POF's.

welcome! i'm from maryland (westminster). lots of variables to really say one car does or does not fit anyone, any time, any place, any financial situation, opinion, style, etc.... in general, as far as subaru's go the EJ25, and particularly the 1996-1999 EJ25 (DOHC) is one of Subaru's worse for reliability (my definition). keep in mind we're talking percentages here...subaru percentages...not DODGE. i'd still take an EJ25 any day over a dodge or ford car. my definition of reliability may differ from others. the EJ25 sucks because when the head gaskets fail you can't go anywhere - you're stuck. they're not like some engines that you just keep adding coolant to them, no dice. look up "head gasket" or "torque bind" either here or on the internet and you should find plenty of reading material. the manual trans has far fewer issues with torque bind. and torque bind in general is caused by prior maintenance, it's not a defect. but you're buying a 10 year old car so try and guarantee good maintenance. the head gaskets are just a weak spot, not typical subaru. that's not to say they are bad engines or vehicles, but you need to know this going into it. i would never pay full price for one. if you're looking in the higher price range i'd suggest buying one with a blown engine (easy to find - i've bought a bunch), and buy a new engine from CCR. that's a better way to go than just buying one from joe schmoe's auto lot. not too mention - where is the highest concentration of problematic vehicles going to end up - in people's driveway or back on the market? of course problem vehicles are getting traded in and sold. personally i'd try and get the Phase II EJ25 (SOHC), available in 2000+ and a few 1999's, or an EJ22 vehicle. the Phase II still has head gasket issues but they're different and not nearly as annoying (keep them full and keep driving) a 1995 manual trans outback wagon is the only outback wagon to have the EJ22 (all the others have an EJ25). that might be a good option for you? to me the 20 extra hp just isn't worth it at all. if i want hp i'll just throw a turbo on the thing or do an EJ turbo swap. while rare the EJ25 also has piston slap and more main bearing failures than the EJ18 or EJ22 as well. piston slap is another one you can look up online or on this forum as well. Subaru even addressed these issues themselves. the Phase II EJ25 has a 100k extended head gasket warranty and they always add/require Subaru slime to the coolant to mitigate the problems. And they have updated pistons to mitigate the piston slap issues. all of this considering the EJ22 is one of Subaru's finest and will outlive the rest of the car in most cases if properly cared for.

hey! you assume the worst of me (usually that might work) - you were posting when i was - i didn't see it until after i posted. i will say that my fully developed hate of carbs is probably due, a little bit, to the gas and what it does to them. but they still suck from here to mars!

MPFI 1987.5 nice hit - FPR, i'll definitely check that out. how does that work - you just pull the vacuum line to it and see if gas has ruptured into the vac line right?

since i pumped some in a can i'll check tomorrow. my sense of hearing and smell are terrible though. it definitely smelled strong...i mean it was all over the place, like you'd expect after removing a fuel pump. i don't know that i would notice a difference.