idosubaru

yep - same engine. they're both DOHC EJ25's. there are a few small differences, but nothing to get in the way of a swap. for the swap you'll pull one and install the other, it'll plug right up, bolt right up and start right up. i believe the 1996 has a timing gaurd the 98 won't have and the timing pulley/tensioner set up may differ slightly. might want to replace the head gaskets before you put it in, these things have a bit of a problem with those if you didn't know.

oh man...you're doing this on purpose aren't you? you're one of *those* guys...fanning the flame!?!??! probably best to look it up online somewhere that has up to date and current oil information. i read a lot about oil years ago and that's enough for me. the endless debates that turn into 10 page threads are ridiculous just for oil choice. the high mileage stuff is more expensive and you're not getting anything for it. (remember we're talking about a good running engine here with no issues). high mileage concoction is oil with additives to give it it's "high mileage" label and flavor. all oils have some additives, but these will have more. more additives = less oil. i'm sure it's a small difference...but that's what oil debates are always about! if "high mileage stuff" made something run better - it's probably not because of the oil - it probably needed an oil change anyway, or using a different viscosity or brand would have given the same results. it's a band aid and this would only matter on an engine with issues anyway - not this guys engine that has none. who knows i checked into all the stuff 5 or more years ago, maybe things are different now and you should have asked your podiatrist!

that sounds about right. i'd add to that a time interval as well. i wouldn't want it on there if it was 5+ years old either. and definitely don't replace the internal "filter". it's not realy a filter, it's a only a screen and doesn't get dirty.

makes sense. unless there's a compelling reason to play with it, it seems best left alone. change to synthetic and you should be good to go. they fail so rarely i can't think of a good reason to try anything out of the ordinary.

plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and PCV valve.

if you end up replacing the compressor again i'd take note of what nipper said here for the next one. that must be why most of the a/c stuff i've read says you're better off underfilling than overfilling. it usually suggests the existing oil in the system is typically enough for a one time compressor replacement and to add very little to a new or used replacement compressor. unless you chemically treat and remove all the oil or replace things with new there's little need to add anywhere close to the full amount of oil.

this doesn't typically cause immediate failure or issues though. but it is a good point and i'd follow up with the question how/why did the old compressor fail? if it spilled guys into the existing system, which was never cleaned, then those parts may be causing fun things to happen in the new compressor.

the good thing is that the squealing is telling you what the problem is, just need to look at it. the bad thing is that it's squealing! could be a loose belt, the clutch is bad, or the bearings are bad. the bearings are replaceable on the car. does it squeal all the time or only w/ a/c on? is the belt slipping over the pulley at all? is the clutch properly engaging? i'm guessing some part of the compressor assembly is bad. you could try and track down if the bearing or clutch is bad and possibly swap in parts from the old one. but that is mucho-annoying.

Subaru crank pulleys typically have a thin rubber ring separating two metallic parts of the pulley. An inner and outer part of metal with a thin rubber ring between them. This rubber can separate from the metal - impact, damage during maintenance, time, age, etc. As it begins to fail it's usually "wobbling" and a little offset, it can then wear into the timing covers and/or timing belt. From there any number of things can cause the timing belt to fail - like wearing through the belt or the pulley coming off and going into the belt, etc. On earlier engines, no big deal, replace the belt. On newer interference engines that means internal engine damage - usually bent valves but possibly more.

well you could have had one that was too long or didn't fit.....just checking. bolt is fine, just work it back and forth. how did hold, did you install it yet?

is that a synth/conventional mix? not to start an oil debate but at least a couple years ago the blends were considered a huge waste of money. you're paying premium for "synthetic" but it really has a very small amount in it. maybe that's changed but i'd either go all synthetic or conventional, there's no point to "have both" so to speak. not trying to "change your mind" or even suggest i know much, but hate to see you throw money at marketing too....if that's what it is...which i'm not sure of. oh man, it's not going to take long for this to turn out like all the other oil questions...... it's always good to plug around the internet a bit and read up on oil if type is a big concern. a subaru board isn't necessarily the best place to learn about oil no more than asking a podiatrist about your tooth ache.

avoid the high mileage stuff and use straight oil. high mileage oil should never be used...except as a band aid if for some reason it helps. even oil leaks, if you start experiencing any, should be fixed. it'll be either valve covers (easy and cheap) or cam/oil pump seals which should be replaced at the next timing belt anyway. the only time you need to switch up from regular oil is if you're experiencing significant issues. doesn't sound like you have any though, so motor along. don't let it run low on oil or overheat and that motor will last a very long time. that's a fantastic subaru motor - one of my favorites. 96 is the last year for the non-inteference EJ22, excellent motor. and a 5 speed too....good luck!

yeah, go for a bit of lock tite, but i would'nt use the "permanent" stuff no matter how positive you are that it'll never come off again. JB weld is not the ticket. you didn't have a tap to create new threads and clean it out do you? if you cut new threads with the bolt that should be fine, just work it in and out and clean the bolt/threads off really good. torque it to spec's and see if it goes to the torque value you need it. if it does you're golden. sounds like it'll be fine to me.

welcome - i'm from not too far from you - Uniontown/Westminster MD area. go back there frequently. a great site for sifting through subaru models, pictures, and options: http://www.cars101.com/ for the $6k price range you'll be looking at the Impreza OBS (Outback Sport) Forester, or Legacy Wagons. You can get Legacy wagons up to 2000 - 2004 for $6 depending what you want in terms of options and mileage. the EJ22 is the better motor for reliability and has fewer issues. the EJ25 makes more power and in the 90's generally comes in the higher end models like the Legacy. 2000+ all Legacy's have the EJ25. if you get an EJ25 i'd get the Phase II SOHC or 2000+ Legacy EJ25 (some 1999's have this one as well - i think foresters). it's a better engine than the 1996 - 1999 DOHC EJ25. legacy's are heavier and more solid and typically have a more solid feel and better trim/options than the impreza OBS. if you like new and nice: for $6k i'd recommend a 2000 - 2004 Legacy wagon. you'll be confined to get an EJ25 which has piston slap and external head gasket leaks - do a search for those conditions for more information. if you want the newer H6 engine, those are great but you'll be hard to find one in the $6,000 range, it'll be high mileage most likely. if you want reliability (these will be $3,000 - $5,000): get a late 90's Legacy with the EJ22 - the EJ22 only comes in base models though so you'll likely have to give up leather seats, heated seats, etc. the EJ22 was also available in the Subaru Impreza OBS up until 2002 or so (the last year of the EJ22). you'll have to decide if that's a good fit or you want the all out Legacy wagon.

no check engine light? not sure how the EJ idle controls work but if it's anything like the older gen stuff, just remove the idle air control valve and clean it out really good. also - check for vaccuum leaks at all hoses. spraying of starter fluid i believe is the preferred method - spray around hoses and junctures, clamps, any leak will suck in the fluid and cause the engine to change idling abruptly.

what does that mean? aftermarket under dash unit? what is that?

i would stick with EJ parts as much as possible. i would guess the EJ stuff should be relatively easy (considering you did a swap) to install in the engine bay. then it's all similarly compatible with the EJ22 set up. and parts sourcing should be much simpler, EJ stuff is everywhere, people are throwing it away.

maybe he wants extensive internal engine damage as an excuse to buy a new motor!?! for real - nippers is asking because you have an interference engine. if the timing belt breaks your engine is most likely toast....or a very expensive repair. timing belts are 60,000 or 105,000 mile change interval items (depending which motor you have).

if you got the time what about getting the known good motor (lower miles) and redoing the entire thing? it's cool knowing you got a motor you worked on in there. it was all in pieces, now it's doing 70 mph, 5,000 rpm's and getting you places! the scariest thing about the CCR motor is your comment about selling it. of course that was based on some things, but either way i wouldn't want to put too much in a car unless i was absolutely certain i was going to have it a long time. speaking from experience....i have put too much in a vehicle and not had it much longer after the fact.

wow. subaru automatic transmissions are about the most painful experience in subaru land. they're annoyingly ambiguous in a number of ways that really suck. anyway, hope you get it figured out. a HOLE in the internal transmission filter and it was all plugged up? i've pulled transmissions with tons of miles and have never even seen a spec of dirt on those screens of the internal filters. that is truely bizarre. they probably tried to lift it with a fork lift...poked through the pan, into the filter, and swapped on another pan? i'd be miffed too about the trans mileage if it seems like they lied about it.

Nathan - awesome, thanks for the information. i was looking at buying a newer wagon for no reason! still looking, but sounds like i might not worry as much about it having LATCH or not. ill check into that. i guess it's just a convenience thing?

congrats on replacing the belt! you feel like you got it on there right and tightened properly? is anyone else wondering how in the #(*)&!* a belt just ends up missing?? no explanation, no prior information like the car was bought that way, it made a crazy noise...nothing. just, "no belt". WHAT?! whatever happened, make sure it's tightened properly and none of the bolts and such are stripped or missing to lock it in place.

new motor is a great idea. remember how much you like the impreza and not having to worry about it? granted it's a much older car not worth much like GD said but the worries won't be there with a new motor...like melis loosing a rod bearing. EA81's are great but that kind of stuff happens with higher mileage cars. i also agree the head gaskets are worth a shot if you have the time, they're not that hard. don't sweat it, you got two good options.

seems like the crank pulley could be failing or the belt could be slipping. this would affect all of these systems (brake light, power steering, battery), so i would check there immediately, particularly considering this can damage your engine if the pulley fails completely. first have a look at the pulley to see if it's out of round or wobbling at all while the engine is running. crank pulleys have a thin rubber ring inside of them. i would paint/draw a white (or noticeable) line across the entire face of the crank pulley. that's the main pulley that both belts go around on the center of the engine. it's the only pulley that has both belts attached to it. turn the car on and drive for a bit. if the line you drew is no longer lined up, your pulley is beginning to separate. if the pulley is bad you have the option of buying a used one for $25-$50 off someone on this board or a junk yard or a new one for....whatever Subaru charges probably $150+. make sure you power steering belt is properly tightened - not too loose, not too tight and that the power steering pulley is spinning. have someone rev the engine while you watch the pulley - it should equally gain speed with the motor. let us know what you find out.

are you trying to verify the integrity of the engine? get this done: leak down test compression test both very easy to do and won't take your mechanic any time at all. if those pass...and considering this is an EJ22 you should be golden. good luck - hope they turn out stellar (they probably will!) since you sounds interested in keeping this car for awhile and making sure the engine is in good shape, ill give you some info on how i (well versed in subaru's) go about maintenance on my own cars and for others. how old is the timing belt? i'd be MUCH more concerned about that than a car-fax. this is an interference engine, if the timing belt breaks then your engine will sustain internal damage = bad news. being 10 years old the timing pulleys should be inspected, at least one will be devoid of grease. if you want a solid, reliable engine verify the timing belt has been replaced and the pulleys are inspected, personally i'd replace them all with an ebay timing belt kit so they are all new. the water pump is 10 years old too. the next time the timing belt is removed i'd replace it. otherwise you're asking it to last how long 15+ years 150,000 miles - it can do it, but that's risky for reliability and a valuable vehicle. that's how you get an easy 100,000 more miles out of this engine - addressing maintenance and wear items like that. i would never install a used engine without replacing all of those items myself. your mechanic may have installed a new belt, but probably nothing else.