idosubaru

definitely possible. i know someone put a V8 in an XT....not sure how/what it was mounted to though. i think it *pushed* a little tiny bit!

okay i'm a goober - what's the difference between tether and LATCH? i don't really know, haven't even tried to install the seat yet. thanks guys.

i wouldn't recommend this here personally. i would try it, but without experience i wouldn't suggest anyone else doing it unless they've done something similar before. being the pulley you're talking about a larger diameter bolt probably won't even fit through the pulley anyway so this probably isn't an option. but if you did do it - try to to find a bolt that is just slightly larger in diameter. some of the english sizes are a hair bigger or use the next size up metric bolt. that takes one of the larger bolts then, i'm surprised in my experience it's 5 to 1 usually the smaller bolts that strip. it's harder to find those larger bolts in as many various lengths, the smaller ones are easier. i think that's a 10x1.25 thread if you need to go buy some of different lengths. just take it to lowes with you and buy a couple (i know the thread pitch is 1.25, diameter i might be off on). anyway, buy a couple of different lengths and see which works. you should be able to stick a tooth pick, straw or something down the hole to get an idea of how deep it is. another test - thread the bolt into the hole without the pulley in place. this will tell you two things - how deep it is and it might give you and indication if the bolt will tighten or not....if you want to chance it that is!!! sorry to be so wordy, it's just one of those things you try anything you can think of and make it work....hard to verbalize or give a step-by-step. good luck!

i'm hearing you on the 235k stuff, that is a lot of miles. i thought this was a low mileage vehicle, is that a different engine? i wonder how long it's been bad, if it was ever driven like that by the previous owner of the engine? i'd wonder as well. sounds like EA81's are easier than EA82's - and they aren't hard at all. air tools and a ratcheting 10mm make it easier. i'm about to start one this morning. on an EA82 anyone using a hoist or stand is wasting time. it's nice, but everything else being equal it's faster without. good luck girl

yep, that's it. thanks! i wonder if there's a kit, guess i could call subaru. or if there's a way to attach the 2000+ latch system to my Legacy? anyone know how the latch system is fitted to the vehicle?

just in case: aside from the longer bolt you can helicoil those threads. need to gain access or use a right angle drill. not any right angle drill will work though, needs to be shallow enough to fit between the front and engine of course (i've seen some big honkers that won't fit). what i do is get a right angle drill and hold the drill bit in something steady and wail it with a hammer to break it and shorten the bit. otherwise the bit will be too long to fit down there. or the non drilling method would be to try and use slightly larger, probably non-metric threaded, bolts (depending which pulley and how it's mounted).

wow. what a saga! you need to verify the final drive ratios of your trans and rear diff. why go through all of this work if the duty C is fine? first oddity of this story: when you say transmission filter do you mean the external screw on filter had a hole in it or the internal filter (just a screen) had a hole in it? either way this doesn't sound good. if it's an external filter then the year of the trans is way off (1998+), if it's the internal filter there's no way that should have had a hole in it and been clogged. that sounds very bad. the first problem you may have is that you don't have a 1995 transmission. did this transmission bolt up fine to the engine or was it slightly different? it sounds like you have a 1998 transmission. if you remember your 1995 didn't have a transmission filter on it. it might be different enough from your 1995 to cause issues. the TCU might be locking the clutches regardless of the final drives being right? to check the final drives: for the rear you can just count revolutions - make a mark on a rear tire and on the driveshaft. turn them 10 times.....the other will turn either 41 (4.11) or 44 (4.44) times around. or divide those numbers by 2 - 5 times will be 20.5 (4.11) or 22 (4.44). the trans is a REAL PITA. subaru did not make this easy and seemed to vary the final drives a lot...making it annoying for boards like this to figure things out. manual trans are easy, automatics are just a pain. the only way to do that with the front without massive disassembly is to remove the diff drain plug and try and mark/count one of the teeth on the diff. rotate the tire on that side and count the same way as before. the other option is to read the trans number off the case and call Subaru and ask them or ask a junk yard to check - they seem to have okay databases to work with. another option. knowing this auto trans should be a 4.44 or 4.11....if the rear is a 4.44, i would just swap your old 4.11 in it's place and see if the torque bind goes away. but not knowing if the trans is even working right, being the year differences, this isn't really a good option for you here.

CTS - clean it or replace. make sure if you replace it to clean the engine side wiring that attaches to it - since that's usually the problem anyway, a bad connection. not sure how the idle control set up is on your EA82T but if it's an actual IAC valve, then remove it and clean it. blow them out with brake cleaner until all the black stuff is gone and the cleaner comes out clear.

briggs - got you covered on the stripped bolt. there's a very easy fix. get a longer bolt. the holes are deeper than the stock bolts threads. i always clean the threads first with a tap and do the same thing with the new bolt, chase the threads with a die. of course you need the get the length just right...if it's too long it'll bottom out. if you have a bolt that's too long you can cut it but you will have to chase the threads then, the cut will roughen them up. or you can space the bolt out with washers under the head - depending how it's mounted and which pulley it is. as for the PCV valve - just thread it in - they don't get any sealant on the threads. you'll notice the old one is clean when you pulled it out....or dirty from oil/grit maybe!

thanks all. the XT6 runs fine without one as well. it will actually run and drive about like normal...but you'll get a hint that something isn't quite right due to the lack of power.

1996 Legacy Sedan AWD LSi EJ25 vehicle with leather seats. Do they have anchors or kits to install them available? Or is this a seat belt only vehicle for installing car seats?

i'm getting low compression on cylinder #1 - shouldn't it still run? it won't get over 50/75psi at the most, seems to vary. but i also stripped the spark plug threads and rethreaded it - so who knows if it's really sealing and giving me a good reading? the other three are spot on 150-155 psi. the cylinder is not flooding with fluid...looks wet but i can't tell if that's just fuel from it not starting or fluid from a bad headgasket. either way - shouldn't it run even with one bad cylinder?

that is strange news to me for a bearing to be that bad and you didn't notice before, it was mistaken for a CV axle, the mechanic didn't see/check it before, and it wasn't causing other problems...wobbling, wheel wear, etc. wheel bearings generally make the humming noises you mentioned and are fairly consistent. i'm wondering now though...i have a 1997 impreza OBS with a funny sounding front passengers side wheel area. have wheels (no hub caps) and have swapped multiple different sets and it still makes the noise. replaced the CV axle thinking for sure that was it - nope. done a brake job and still makes the noise. a strange, loud ticking noise. doesn't sound anything like i'm used to for a wheel bearing. i might need to check that hub/bearing out?! i'm now interested quite a bit in this thread.... at least now you know!

4) she just had her front brakes pads + rotors replaced. that doesn't matter. they were probably done but a shop/mechanic and were pad slapped. they don't make any extra money taking the time to properly clean and grease the slides. more often than not that step is skipped. particularly from dealers and other mechanics...they're paid by job. the quicker they get done, the more money they make. they aren't paid per hour, or day. i'd check the suggestions already made.....and probably somewhat in this order too: tune up, O2 sensor and regreasing the brakes will probably bring you up significantly. hope those end up helping you out! the rear pads are discs brakes as well and have the same slide caliper pin set up.

automotive stores all sell brake caliper grease. grease the slides and all under the rubber boots. work the pins in and around, wipe off any extra grease that comes out - they have a "relief valve" of sorts that will allow extra grease to come out or it'll just push out around the boots. wipe it away. i recommend springing for the bottle, it's annoying buying the packs every time you think you might need them. those little packs don't go very far and the bottles are cheap and come with an applicator under the lid (at least the ones i've bought - permatex brand from memory??).

yeah there's no cap and rotor. EJ engines are not forgiving. best bet are stock NGK plugs and OEM Subaru ignition wires only. This is not true of all subaru motors, but this one in particular is best to not use after market wires on. for your bad gas mileage: how many miles? automatic/manual - FWD/AWD in addition to typical tune up stuff (plugs, wires, air filter, PCV, fuel filter): O2 sensor is probably original - they need replaced by this age brakes - you have disc all the way around. grease all the slide pins, they're probably dry by now. how does said girlie friend drive...stomping on the accelerator, changing speeds, tail gaiting, heavy braking, never uses cruise control...all of these will kill mileage.

It's probably an EJ25, particularly if it's a nicer model like OBW. some lower level Legacy's had the EJ22 up until 1999 or 2000 so there's a small chance. if it's an EJ25, head gaskets and piston slap are the main issue. outside of that there are few issues at all. autotrans - check for torque bind. make sure all the tires match in pressure, tread depth and you rotate them frequently to prevent trans issues. Subaru automatic transmissions are very reliable.

ha, ha dry heat! can you just strap something to the top? i've strapped lots of crazy things on highway trips on the top of my roofrack - ladders, boards, etc. get something flat, with the right set up and ratchet straps they're not going anywhere. yeah it won't look cool but hey, does the job. maybe even just ratchet strap other stuff that's inside on top...get a rubber maid tub or something similar, fill it up with stuff inside, ratchet the gonads out of it, then put the bikes inside? break the bikes down....take the pedals off, wheels off.....would that help at all? there's enough options that something would work...though it may not be ideal. buy a receiver and hitch mounted rack?

what/how did you do this swap? 1999 is a strange year (98 and 99 are not interchangeable for instance). it's a 1999 OBS - so it should have had the EJ22 (2.2 liter) exactly what motor did you put in it? exactly what parts did you change out? simple issues are usually just forgetting to connect a vaccuum line, EJ engines won't run/start without some of the vacuum lines connected - like the brake booster for instance. check them over good and start there.

nice ride! 111.4 kW = 149 hp at the wheels!

good job. maintenance sucks, but enjoy the fact that you did it and didn't pay someone $150 to do it.

ha ha, i didn't even look at the time, it just happened to come to the top of "new" posts again cause you posted. clutch parts are a great idea. i'd replace everything, throw out bearing, clips, and pilot bearing. if you buy a good clutch kit that stuff usually comes with it except for the throw out bearing clips. those are common to EA,ER, and EJ engines so Subaru always has them in stock.

he's on it, just with a typo:

it's also important to know that they don't necessarily come pre-gapped from the store. you have to gap them to your application -which for your car i believe is 0.44"...but the store/owners manual/FSM/USMB can tell you for sure. make sure they're properly gapped.

i would get the engine/trans running well first before moving ahead. sounds like there are some running issues and i'd rather iron those out before upgrading wheels/tires unless you need new tires anyway and can find a set. that's only a 2.4% increase in size. that equates to like a maximum of 0.48 mpg increase assuming 100% efficiency (impossible). don't think you'll gain much there, but might not hurt to try. if you increase your sizes a bit - maybe find a set of 14" wheels? i've had mixed results making significant increases. keeping in mind your odometer is wrong so you need to be true you need to check before/after with GPS or some other accurate measurement first. for highway driving here are my experiences: on the XT6 (2.7 liter 6 cylinder) i've found larger diameter tires increase gas mileage. 16" stock WRX size verses the stock 14" XT6 205/60/14's does good. same results in auto and manual. on a 1.8 liter 4 cylinder EJ18 (in an automatic) i've found larger diameter tires hurt gas mileage. it runs best with 15" LSi tire size (forget the size) verses the larger 16" wheel/tire combo. being as flat as it is in honolulu though you might have a different experience, though the 1.8 liter didn't seem to do well even on land with very minor hills with the larger tires.