idosubaru

Can you install springs? They’re only $30 new from Subaru if they’re still available. Or maybe you’re trying to avoid installing them? The rears are really easy compared to fronts.

When I say enjoy it for what it is, they’re great vehicles. Old of course by now but they’re very reliable and simple machines. No computer and no timing belt - change the oil and don’t let it run hot and it’ll run forever.

No. I’d rather have something with a known issue - that way you know why it’s discounted. can you aim for something around $3k that needs $2k of work instead of $1k needing a completely overhaul? You should be able to get newer low mileage and less likely work guess you’re out west so prices are inflated a little. But that’s a terrible deal. At that mileage that car is barely worth a $1,000 if it was known running and driving with no immediate issues and not from an auction. I wouldn’t want it. Mechanicals are tired and rust and bushings. I guess if you want to and have the time it’ll be a good learning opportunity. I used to do that 20 years ago (also paying off student loans). and it was good for a learning curve but I had the skillset and grit to buy better vehicles that needed less work. you should easily be able to find something way under your price range for much better without needing any major mechanical work. Find one with a known issue that’s discounted for that reason. I’d get one with a light rear or front end damage that just needs a bumper or doors or has a blown engine or trans.

Awesome!! I was under the impression you already changed that with another trans. Sorry I missed that.

Trans drives in purely mechanical mode with plug disconnected. If it’s undrivable and problematic that way then the trans very well may be hosed. Code 79 - good job. That’s the only code? Follow the FSM procedures for tracing that. That makes me wonder - Duty C issues only impact AWD drive, not shifting and drivability. You can completely cut the wire to the Duty C and the cars drive perfectly 100% fine and it’s not even noticeable except binding. This is terrible suggestion that only a very few people would do but if the FSM tracing doesn’t show anything I’d be tempted to cut the duty c wire and see how it drives. Then I’d install a 4WD switch at that splice to control AWD for off-road and snow Something I typically do anyway on my DDs id guess You have more than just a basic Duty C issue.

“Kit” - that doesn’t exist. EJ22 swap or enjoy it for what it is are the only two practical options for the majority of people. Other options require fabrication, customization, figuring things out on the fly, well above average skill sets or $$$$, which usually isn’t an option when the first question asked is “where’s the kit”?

That’s a great point, this has a good chance of being a case of mistaken identify. On that note - check the small half circular hose behind the alternator, it’s “close to the water pump”. I think all EA82s have that one.

Yes, a water pump can leak without running. you said you “replaced the items above”: exactly what did you replace? If you replaced the pump and gasket and it’s still leaking in the same area then you need to confirm the precise source - trace it and find the source of the leak. I hate guessing when we have no pictures and incomplete information but if two pumps leaked in the same way then it’s not the pump. 1. Check gasket mating surface. It may be compromised. 2. Check the hose - is it degraded internally and not sealing on the pump? This seems unlikely given the locations and how and EJ pump is located in the engine bay. 3. Look for the source of the leak and see if you have a very rare casting block leak. This is very improbable but if the source is the block, there can very rarely be casting imperfections that allow coolant leaks and the very few (like two) I know of where both in the front Timing belt area. But I hate to even mention this because most of the time this is just going to be a normal leak that wasn’t seen due to experience, diligence or lack of detail. on that wild last wild note you could google search and see if anyone has posted pictures of these leaks. They probably all happen in the same 1, or a couple, areas. If one exists, a picture may help you know where to look.

Read the AT codes - they will not show with a generic OBDII scanner like check engine light codes. If the AT light is flashing it is giving you codes that very well may tell you what's wrong. If you *absolutely, positively* have identical issues with the trans and the old one, then it's likely some other issue. I would wonder if you have damaged wiring somewhere - if the car sat for a year it could have rodent damage. I've seen mice in rural areas and chipmunks in urban areas both chew through wires. There aren't too many places immune. It's not common but I've seen it multiple times, even under passengers floor carpeting in an outback where it didn't seem there was room for a mouse to even get to it. I had traced it to a broken wire and pulled up the carpet and there it was - one chewed through wire. Splice and done. Follow the wiring all the way from the engine bay to the TCU and see if anything is damaged. If this is the case you should be able to trans every wire from the trans to the TCU and find out which one is bad. I think you would have incurred other issues installing it - but could it be the wrong year transmission? If you unplug the TCU or trans connector in the engine bay does it drive fine in 3rd gear? It'll be slow accelerating and no TC lock up but I'm wondering if it'll run similar to a properly working trans with the TCU disconnected.

Awesome, that was a quick turn around of events. ECU wasn't mentioned so miscommunication or misdiagnosis, or both, may have also contributed to the delay. Which is another point - tech's are very good at diagnosis but aren't trained on lightening strikes so it might take a little extra effort to approach that. Good to hear. ECU: Engine Control Unit

Call the Seattle area Walker/Renton and Auburn parts departments. These guys see more Subaru's than trees in Seattle and do massive volume...and they're closer to Japan HAHA! A number of folks on here live in that area and would know who is best. Have your VIN handy. I was trying to find part numbers. 85002FL170 is the part number for the limited: https://www.subarupartspro.com/oem-parts/subaru-cluster-85002fl170?origin=pla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1dKahp-n6wIVAm-GCh1yEA04EAQYAiABEgKISPD_BwE Some of the subaru shops online listed these as in stock - but I'm guessing if you ordered they'll end up sending you an email that they're unavailable. I have a go to parts manager, but as a rule I don't make a habit of asking him about every question I encounter publicly, I'd wear out those high capacity people I'm close to. And there's more like him, I think you'll find them with some effort. This won't be tenable, but given these components never fail except by outside influence, this is a great practical approach: Used body control modules are $100. (These guys have one: 1-800-327-0888). Instrument clusters are listed for $125 too. Subaru can marry them to the vehicle. I'll be driving past you on my way to Sea Brooke Island in a couple of weeks. Wish I could toss some parts at you on my way!

I'd call, or contact, a Subaru regional rep now. Get a case started. Have you gotten a work order or estimate with the unavailable part numbers on it? Have you looked into South Carolina lemon laws? Okay - so you're talking to the dealer? I wanted to make sure you're not talking to an adjuster. The service department/advisors, know nothing about the shop or parts side of things. They're customer service people trained on soft skills - which are critical and should be well trained - but that's not what you need right now. And they're regurgitating information 3rd hand, or worse. You need someone experienced with the parts supply side. (current closures aside), normally I would go in person to the parts department and ask if you can talk to someone that's been there the longest about what happens when parts aren't available for new cars. They should be able to talk to someone outside the dealer and get some feedback on potential availability. Have you personally talked to the parts manager? Have you tried contacting another parts manager? I would keep asking the parts manager or call and find a really good parts manager. A good parts manager should be able to tell you what interactions they've had - what they've been told, how long this could potentially take, and what your options are. Yes it's annoying to go out of your way on a new car with warranty - I totally agree and get that this is a time sucking dent in your week (or month). It feels like it should just be taken care of. But outliers are always happening in life, and big systems aren't well set up to deal with them - happens in every sector and to every business. I'd suggest being proactive and engaged on something bizarre like this. Welcome to the new reality of new cars - it's a throw away culture where average new car consumers want a new car every 6 years. The current market and consumer buying habits don't support the type of parts supply chain you're assuming. Like 10 people in the US last year bought a brand new car at full price based on availability of brand new replacement parts. No one cares and the market is designed to give consumers exactly what they want - novelty, gadgets, electronics, refresh.. I get that this is a time sucking, ridiculous situation. While lightening strikes are common, the number of them that A. strike close enough to a car to damage it, B. damage it enough to attempt a possible repair, C. hit a new car with unavailable components, D. damage those components that aren't available......is relatively small and insignificant and it's not a surprise a large global system isn't set up to support it. Annoying yet, but that's the new reality in most sectors and businesses.

Drove fine on dry roads today, so an alignment and new tires should take care of this. I'm going to measure alignment when I get home, wanted to drive it some before taking alignment measurements after having it off the ground. Tires are warn evenly across the surface so it's all toe and not a camber issue. Hopefully the mis-alignment and bald tires couldn't handle wet roads. Thanks guys.

Who is covering this - Subaru warranty, home owners insurance, car insurance, or are you paying out of pocket? There's probably a chance that this car could be totaled - if multiple computer systems and devices are damaged it could create a hefty parts cost. Stop in or call them regularly and ask what can be done. I'd get in touch with managers - definitely a parts manager because they've got the experience dealing in parts. Ask them what happens in situations like these and what options you might have. If the parts manager doesn't seem helpful or isn't experienced - go to another dealer (if possible). Service manager too, particularly if it's under warranty. Either way - i'd be looking for who is experienced and been there awhile and can help a non-standard situation. Parts manager, service manager, general manager....etc. If this is being covered by Subaru, ask them if your warranty time frame will be extended for the same amount of time they have the car and you're not driving it (assuming it takes months). You could call your car or home owners insurance (if it happened at home) and see if you have any options - keeping in mind this will incur deductible costs. They won't admit it but dealers will sometimes install used parts in certain cases. I've seen it and heard it from service/parts departments. It is not very common and they're not going to want to talk about it probably, and you might not want to do it on such a new car. But maybe for diagnostic purposes or something of the like, this could open up some options.

Okay thanks. I’m not well versed in all the rear suspension part names so im likely to get confused!

Great, thanks. I want to replace my homemade alligator clip set up. I don’t do enough electrical to know if the elaborate sets are over my head/uses or the simple tools wouldn’t offer much improvement. I’ll check this out when I have a real internet connection, thanks for the link and video.

Thanks. I’m well aware of Subaru AWD specs and this vehicle. Zero concern.

Got it, thanks. I replaced both of those lateral links you mentioned (i think subaru calls them suspension control arm) due to bad bushings earlier this summer. I probably marked and retained the eccentric adjustments, but I haven't aligned it since then so this is the likely culprit and now that the tires are bald they're hydroplaning with bad alignment. New tires are on the way, new wheel bearing goes on today. For rear suspension/linkage reference: https://parts.competitionsubaru.com/p/Subaru__Tribeca/Suspension-Control-Arm-Front--Rear/49229241/20250XA060.html https://parts.competitionsubaru.com/a/Subaru__Tribeca/49229241__6029069/REAR-SUSPENSION-06MY-06MY/W10-201-01.html

Thanks, that makes more sense than the diff causing tire issues. Good call - Replaced two rear bushings a couple months ago, I didn't see any others yesterday that looked problematic. I'll check alignment first and see where it's at.

Bushing cracks. At least one crack per bushing goes all the way through. I doubt this has anything to do with tire wear. But I know the old gen guys have seen this before so I’ll search there.

Thanks guys - there’s a bad wheel bearing. I missed it at first because, as normal, it didn’t show itself with normal tests. That doesn’t explain the fishtailing and excessively fast tire wear on both sides. Alignment? The two rear diff hanger bushings have cracks all the way through - could this cause tire wear issues? Seems unlikely. Bearing tested fine, even stethoscope was silent. I felt lumpiness with hands on lugs at a very specific point of rotation once I took the rotor off. It’s like the weight of the rotor helps conceal it or something. I’ve seen that happen multiple times before.

I’ve had it for years and almost 100,000 miles. One rear bearing is bad so that explains the noise. It didn’t reveal itself at all until I pulled the wheel and rotor no vibrations or noise. I don’t know how they’re able to do that but that’s not the first time that’s happened. No play noise vibrations or rough spots until it’s all torn down Then I feel a little lumpiness, no play. excessive tire wear I’m still unsure of. The two rear diff hanger bushings have cracks in them. Each bushing is attached via two connections to the outer bushing material. And each bushing has at least one of those two connections cracked all the way through. I’m unsure if that’s enough to cause any issues though.

List to check: Rear suspension bushing play Rear diff noise/play Rear diff fluid drain and fill Alignment - I’ll need to find the Tribeca front and rear track width first.

Thanks guys. I’ll get it up in the air later today. what suspension item(s) would cause both tires to wear? Came from 1,000 miles south, very little rust so rear subframe rusting seems unlikely. 210,000 mile Tribeca I’ve had for years. I think these have open rear diffs. I drove a college friend 1,400 miles to NH for grad school. The noise was present the entire time. The fish tailing didn’t start until I drove in rain the last 50 miles, so that was lucky. That’s when I noticed the bald tires which were above the wear bars when I left.

Very loud roar. - That’s a bad rear bearing. Fish tailing rear end at 40+ mph. Massive rear tire wear. Can’t tell if fishtailing is due to tires being bald or something else. Can bad rear diff bushings cause that or it’s probably alignment/suspension?