idosubaru

97 Legacy On the front caliper the cylinder that the bolt goes through and which slides inside of the rubber boots is seized. This is the lower one, the one the bolt goes through that you remove. I'm trying to get it out to clean it up and grease it, but it's in there tight. Using a combination of things i've managed to "press" it partially through, until it bottoms against the caliper on the side i was pressing. Now how do i get it through the rest of the way? The others were all tight as well, but this one (the last of course :-\ ) is much harder.

make sure that check engine code is correct if it comes back, give us the exact code the computer tells you. give us a brief history of the car - any recent major work done? was the timing belt replaced (that's a 105,000 mile item)? has the air filter ever been replaced? where did you buy the plug wires from? use Subaru wires and NGK plugs only on this motor. (it sounds like you did, just checking).

thanks all, it worked! pickle fork a.k.a. ball joint separator was AWESOME. just the ticket. i had pounded, used the jack trick, bashed the snot out of my control arm...PB blaster, torched it....multiple combinations of above....and it wouldn't move. the ball joint separator took one minute and it was out. what a great tool to have. thanks!

weight will matter depending on the car, driver, and type of driving. probably make more difference in situations where you're accelerating or downshifting more like city or mountain driving. for highway driving it makes zero difference in my cars. i can make the same 700 mile trip empty or loaded with 400 pounds more than myself and miles per gallon won't change at all.

what do you need help with specifically? remove accessory belts, cam pulley, timing belt covers, timing belts and then replace the water pump. if you've never done timing belts make sure you take a good look at how the cams and crank are lined up and put it back exactly how it was. there are plenty of notes and threads on how to line the timing belts back up.

in the 90's when i used to drive 40k a year on long highway trips i recall getting better gas mileage in the colder winter months. i don't notice that any more...maybe it was just that car or new gas or i couldn't divide as well back then!

i have. but mine were the "track" cams, which i don't recommend. and i installed a set for another board member, he has dyno graphs posted here or on the subaruxt forum. i believe his were the street/mild grinds, he posted pictures of the spec's.

Nipper - if you put it in first gear on pavement, does it "hop" and "Jump" like a 4wd "locked" vehicle? i don't think it will. my XT6 and 97 Impreza Outback Sport (both 4EAT) do not "bind" in 1st gear, but they will with the Duty C switch. 1st gear doesn't seem to do anything in mine or the difference is negligible, it's not even close to the duty C mod in terms of traction. there have been a few other threads about this...some people say 1st gear does something, others say it doesn't. i don't know why or what the answer is, but at least on some subaru's 1st is not the same as the duty C mod.

you did the same swap i did - 95 into a 96. i guess you swapped the rear diff to match? i didn't know what to think since i swapped AWD to FWD and EJ25 to EJ18, but since yours was just the trans i'm wondering if we won't have the same codes. be interesting to see. i assume you're going to try and pull the code?

oh well, at least a friend joins me in the pursuit of this! if you figure out what the code is, let me know. i plan on trying to read mine when i get back in town.

copy that. that's my plan. i got no codes.

the front diff is bolted to the transmission. in the auto's like he said it has separate fluids for the trans and diff. in manuals transmissions the front diff and trans share the gear oil. the front diff comes off but the backlash adjusting when reinstalling one is very crucial to get right, so there's not too many people that do it. someone does have a good thread on here about it though with some pictures i believe.

you don't say what year vehicle this is but i wouldn't do the brake or power steering fluid until 100k or a few more years probably myself. unless you do heavy braking, mountain driving, towing, or something like that. did you ask them to do the cooling system flush? if you did, i would check to see if they did it before you do it. if you asked them to, there's a good chance they flushed the engine but didn't flush the overflow tank. your best bet is to search the forum for information on each of these, things like brake fluid, power steering, and cooling flushes have all been covered before. and then ask specific questions you may have about each. if you plan on having the car for awhile and do some maintenance yourself the FSM's would be nice if they're not too brutal in price.

i've bought it at napa before, you might want to ask or pull the part number from their website. but all NAPA's won't necessarily carry it either - the Advance Auto Parts around me all carry it now as well. they always have a bunch of it.

when looking through FSM's before this swap it seems the only difference is the FWD fuse holder and the Duty C solenoid, everything else i believe is the same between them.

good call on checking the wiring. i'll try and pull codes and do that as well, i still have that old trans. i think it's swap related...AWD to FWD, EJ25 to a frankenstein EJ18, no EGR, no charcoal canister. hopefully the TCU will give me the code when i do the secret handshake.

XT6 idles at 750. IAC cleaning is the first step for idle or stallling issues.

john's is a 25 spline XT6, so it should be the same as yours. the FWD imp's are the 23 spliners.

you have the axles and knuckles matching right - both legacy? Is this what you have?: Forester strut Legacy knuckle Legacy axle the tie rods can be adjusted, right, so you could pull them in if you wanted? or is it maxed out? i would match the tie rod end links to the knuckle. i wouldn't be surprised if an EJ rack swapped right into an EA82. i'm surprised at how much that forester strut is affecting those angles. did you do anything to the top strut mount?

oh no, not at all. he originally asked about cams, i'm not sure what they do but i'm Delta cams can probably answer that or search for graphs here i know some people have dyno'ed their cams. Myxalplyx is one person who has (his results weren't too good though, but that's just one). they are very similar. pistons are interchangeable to a degree. i would think similar mods will have similar results so either is good info for the other. good points about overall mod's, he didn't mention that so that put me in "box thinking mode". i do think the XT6 performs much better with a straight through muffler and some minor exhaust work, at least for my style of driving.

95 FWD transmission 95 TCU both from a parts place, so i'm only at the discretion of their relaying the proper info to me. i'm hoping this is an OBDI set up and I can indeed trigger the light to flash me the codes. it seems the FWD stuff should be OBDI from what i've heard from others.

GREAT! thanks a bunch bob for piping up and letting us know the details, that's great!

right O dude, good luck with all that TMI!

i'm not worried about being stranded, they'll run without the O2 even plugged in! if it increases gas mileage 0.5 mpg it will pay for itself in 20,000 miles. 1 mpg pays for itself in 10,000 miles....(and that's if i buy the more expensive Subaru part) replacing every 10 years or 100,000 miles makes it a $10 per year or one tenth of a penny per mile item. i can handle that.

what he said - auto's are completely different in every way. there is no center diff. but there's good news. the rear output shaft (4WD) is controlled via clutches. locking those clutches will perform similarly to a center diff locked manual trans. i've done it to multiple vehicles. for newer EJ stuff this makes the automatics better for some types of offroading than manual trans. i'd much rather have my "locked" automatic than an EJ manual for snow, mud, and offroad driving. there's threads on here about how to do it.