idosubaru

+1, penetrant isn’t necessary or the key here. No need for it. I use it sometimes down the shaft, maybe speeding things up a little towards the end.

That doesn’t do anything here. these are long bolts, top will be sealed shut at the head and the corrosion is way below that and if the corrosion is thorough it’ll be over a long portion of the entire shaft so it needs relatively drenched to have any chance of soaking down the entire corroded shaft length. That’s why my description, and the previous comment, mention working the bolt back and forth to get it backed out enough to get fluid under the head of the bolt. Wash rinse repeat a lot. If it’s real tight take breaks to let localized heating dissipate.

I grab them off extra engines, without that, post a parts wanted post, look online for that thread pitch M8x1.25 (8mm x 1.25 pitch) and length, or fabricate your own bolts to work. I've had zillions of sheared off and stuck ones. I've been able to get a lot of stuck ones out, that would shear, by rocking them back and forth like so: 1. tighten them just a few degrees to break some corrosion 2. loosen them as much as the corrosion allows - 45 degrees or 90 degrees 3. turn back that 45 or 90 degrees 4. continue walking the bolt back and forth and closely increasing the range at which it's loosening. go from 45 degrees to 90 to 135 to 180...etc. 5. After a few iterations - go do something else to let the localized heat disperse so it's not internally heating up too much. Give it at least 15 minutes to cool down. 6. Wash-rinse-repeat those steps 7. once the bolt head gets above the intake manifold quirt some penetrant down the shaft of the bolt. 8. continue working it out.

I disconnect the fuel hose at the drivers side firewall and see what it's doing. It either flows like a garden hose, or nothing, or spits and sputters. I haven't seen any that have a "low flow" which would be hard to tell by eye. And the fuel test kit I have is annoying to hook up to a Subaru...I mean it's not hard but there's just no advantage to diagnosing for me over pulling the hose. And it's just fun spraying fuel over a hot engine, gives me a rush. ....just kidding, cover it with a towel, etc.

Fuel coming out of that hose is not a common symptom. I’ve never heard of it happening and no one has yet mentioned what causes that so I’m assuming they haven’t either.

Okay I actually skimmed your first post and didn't see symptoms clearly. if it's running fine until it's up to temp then i'd check the vacuum leaks, MAF, O2 sensor, and keep checking for codes or wire in a way to easily see if the check engine light ever comes on.

i thought they were outside the caps, I used Rockford. if i remember i'll check when after i leave work.

Charcoal canister is over 10,000 days old, many charcoal filters have 60 day replacement intervals. I would assume it was already dead or this is unimportant. Have you tried to read the codes? You should be able to get it to flash the codes - I'd do whatever you can to do that. On XT's there's an LED in the ECU which flashes the codes if you follow the directions. Does SPFI do this? Check codes Ignition is all good - plugs, wires, cap, rotor? Check timing belt - verify timing is exactly right (the alignment marks are opposite of EJ and people mess that up sometimes) Verify you're getting enough fuel (particularly if the car sat for a long time - bad gas, rusty tank...) Verify the lines are properly hooked up - triple and triple check again if it's already been wrong. Check vacuum lines - make sure there's no leaks (spray starter fluid/carb cleaner)

You're welcome! All manufacturers seem to need wheel bearings more often now than in the past, I'm not sure if it's increasing weight of vehicles, weight savings of EPA driven fleet mileage bearing design, or maybe it's anecdotal but Honda, Subaru...all of them seem to basically all have a reasonable chance of needing wheel bearings more often than past decades. So it was pretty easy to guess that and your description and lack of other identifying symptoms suggested it as well. As far as practical, Subaru specific, experience driven feedback this site is about the best out there. Other are more social and larger so they are good too, but are also prone to poor guesswork when it comes to mechanical issues. They have good people in them, but you have to sort of find out or identify who knows what they're talking about, who's guessing, who's never picked up a wrench before, who misappropriates information from other manufacturers into Subaru world, who thinks they're solving a well known decades old issue for the first time....etc.

No electronics aren’t a big deal. Sometimes the clusters can get flaky. chief issues with turbo are they’re ancient and every fitting, hose, gasket and seal is old. They quickly go from having an issue to dead engine if not promptly addressed, but their value doesn’t lend them to getting great maintenance and repair. By now most have seen bouts of poor ownership, poor oil maintenance, overheating, turbo issues.... Other than that they’re fine.

You can put a catalytic converter on your oven vent hood if you want. buy generic converter. Cut and weld into place.

Wow - that works?! That’s amazing if it does. Easy and inexpensive enough to try! I’ll check that rear again. Chiseled out and wire brushed both but the rear was harder to see from the angle I was working and most of the chiseling was up front so maybe I missed some

Oh right. I’ve pointed them away from me and zipped the nut off with air tools before.

LOL - I get what you’re saying, but he didn’t mention anything after 2005!

It needs oil control rings, not pistons but I wouldn't put significant time money or time into a 280k EJ25 bottom end. I'd just keep adding oil, it's just getting past the oil control rings, not a big deal. But if you're really itching too - install new oil control rings and only address the pistons if you have piston slap in which case knurl them. The stranding items at that age and mileage is commonly timing pulley/component, alternator, or fuel pump. OEM is old, $$$$, and aftermarket is a roll of the dice. Replace all the timing components - pulleys, belt and tensioner - with Subaru OEM and call it good. Replace or have a spare knock sensor on hand, they're cheap and commonly fail.

Like I said in private message and first post here - wheel bearing. There's almost no reason to consider anything else at this point. Two tests you can do to confirm this rely on the bearing creating additional heat: Take the temperature of the rotor/behind the wheel after driving a long time. compare the rear left and rear right sides - if one is notably hotter then it's almost certainly the wheel bearing. You can use a cheap infrared temp gun or even tough it with your hands - but this takes care so you don't burn yourself...start on outside of wheel/rotor and limit direct contact and work your way in/around circumference. The bad bearing can generate more heat. There's a date stamp on them that shows the date they were manufactured - I assume 2017 is the date you bought them. If they were a couple years old (NOS - New Old Stock) they could be older than you think and nearing their useful life by mileage and age. Particularly consider these are low end tires which don't resist sunlight and degradation as well. One of your front rotors needs turned or replaced. Many people do both because they can't tell which one is causing the vibrations and shops have other reasons for doing so, but it's not necessary. Shop across the street from me turns them for $15, but few places do that now so you're looking at new rotors. The easy solution is to just replace both front rotors and if yo'ure paying labor then you do the pads at the same time because they're only $20-$60 for a set of pads. The subaru pads are excellent quality and come with new retaining clips that other pads don't, or if they do they aren't as rust avoidant if you live in a rust prone area.

Good question. All new OEM parts installed.

Yes sagging is springs. A spacer could compensate and is easy for anyone to install. or buy those ones you’re looking into and have at it.

yes. struts are interchangeable and top mounts are the same - so yes, spring just sits between them and will vary height and spring rate. if you're only concerned about sag and not struts - could you use a rear spacer? For some models there are some 3/8" or 1" or other spacers available. Unbolt strut, slide in spacer, reinstall and you're done with no strut replacement or part buying necessary. I'd suggest buying the two cheapest rear used struts in the country on car-part.com or locally and install them. take your old ones and swap out the struts with KYB. you can hand a shop the parts and they'll do it for pocket change. but you will need to grease pen mark the top mount and lower mount location as these are fixed and need to retain their orientation for installing. there is some wiggle room. If it's a little off you just twist it and it's good. annoying - but so are aftermarket struts and top mounts. i've seen 95-99 aftermarket legacy top mounts fail in less than a week. BAM - strut shooting right through the brand new top mount. i've seen other brand new aftermarket top mounts balloon upwards like an inch, maybe that's fine but no way i'd want that on a daily driver. i'm sure they work fine for some people and situation so don't let me scare you. lots of people probably make it fine, but there's plenty of real world experiences that they're really bottom shelf options too. and it sort of makes sense - most people that want complete units are cheap and trying to be quick, inexpensive rusty old cars in the northeast, used car dealers, shops that just want quick turn around volume - so that demand is created by cheaper/lazy people - there's little incentive to make the pre assembled units high quality parts.

Our daily driver 2006 Tribeca - Wire brushed the exhaust where the doughnut gasket seals, installed a new Subaru doughnut and it still leaks. What are my options?

I see you want the quick struts. Some of them suck really bad for Subaru’s. I’ve seen them installed a few times on Subaru’s by local shops. I guess some are good or you’ll get lucky but I’d put a little effort towards avoiding them if possible. I recommend KYB struts and mounts for Subaru’s. some of the aftermarket struts are awful. Floaty, fail, and if they weren’t so awful I might know, instead of guess, that their longevity is suspect. All the struts are interchangeable, the springs are different lengths and spring rates. I installed FWD rear struts on AWD 95-99s. A few years ago the FWD rear KYB struts were much cheaper so I just installed those. Haven’t checked in awhile to see if that’s still true. And they could have changed applications - like just sell one strut for them all instead of one for FWD and one for AWD.

hey it’s me. Thanks for bringing this to the forum instead of private message. you have a bad wheel bearing. but I am making some assumptions about what you haven’t said, and hearing more about what you did say than you actually said (inferring some things). I would hold off on taking it to a dealer this may be better addressed somewhere else depending on the answers you give below. 1. Listen carefully - is the noise to the: front or rear? left or right? which corner - front right, rear left? 2. New tires - brand new or used? Pressure is all good? what brand? Check the 4 digit date stamp on them. It’ll be 4 numbers stamped in a row surrounded by a box or circle. Sometimes it’s not found on both sides of each tire so check all 4 as it might be on the “inside” where you can’t see it. This tells us the date they were made and how old they are. old tires can have gobs of tread and look brand new to the untrained eye but are dried out and perform terrible in snow and rain. 3. Is the tire pressure good? 4. Are any of the tires warn or bald on the inside or outside corner. 5. Does the car track straight or are you fighting the steering wheel? 6. Does the noise change at all with braking or steering left and right?

The trouble shooting section should show which wire colors and plug positions to test for ground and power if you need to clarify them. Are you positive the plugs for heated seats aren’t hiding somewhere? I’d double and triple check. This is an average US market outback? I guess you do since you’re mentioning some specific details but Do you have an FSM to reference and verify?

Are you talking about the body side or diff hanger ones? DIY make your bushings is an option that’s used for some of those old gen NLA bushings.

No - that’s not what I’d recommend. Always use Factory Service manuals. The others are very low grade. If there are lengthy procedures or tooling, you figure it out yourself, or ask here and people will tell you which steps you can skip or how to go about without a “special tool”. ”special tool” itself is a red herring that’s ambiguous and mostly meaningless. Many of them are simply ways for a dealership shop to streamline processes or save a few minutes. This matters if you’re doing a job 100 times a year - saving 10 minutes would equate to saving 16 hours or two days of work for a mechanic. when you’re DIY you don’t care - you spend the extra few minutes, just like you do using a jack and jack stand because you don’t have a lift. some special tools are harder to work around than others: 1. Let yourself be creative by asking how you can accomplish the same thing with readily available tools. 2. and ask here. There are instances where it’s tricky or something but they’re not hard or impossible. It’s definitely not a show stopper.