idosubaru

crank pulley isn't slipping, checked that. it's not the a/c clutch, it will go above normal even without the a/c on....has to be a steep uphill climb and fairly hot out. i've replaced the thermostat like 3 times, so that's not it. i haven not flushed the block. would that really help? i'm supicious of the hoses too, the top hose was collapsing sometimes. doesn't seem to be doing it anymore though, it seemed a little long so i trimmed it so it wouldn't be "under load" so to speak. i went to put another hose on this morning but i didn't have one. i think i'll try another hose first and possibly flushing the block.

i've worked on a few EJ25's with headgasket issues. based on my experience i doubt they didn't know it had issues to begin with. be interested to know if it had a new thermostat and radiator caps....proof that someone knew it was overheating and tried the cheap/easy fixes first. still couldn't prove whether it was the previous owner or the seller though.

there may be an easy solution: first, is this an automatic or a manual? i'm not familiar with 80's brats, but the later soobs have a mechanism that prevents the key from being removed from an automatic unless it's in Park. often it's just not seated right, push the gear selector all the way into park, jiggle it, play with it and it'll release. your EA81 brat probably isn't like that, so there's one other possibility. is the steering wheel locked? yank on the wheel really hard left or right and jiggle it as well while giving it some good stank. try removing your key while doing that. if your key is warn so much that it came out while in drive, that's not a big deal, they do that all the time. that's not a problem with the lock cylinder, it's usually just a warn key. save that key, they often work in multiple ignitions/vehicles when they're warn that much. it may just work in your next one if you do have to get another lock cylinder (done that a few times myself and i've never had a lock cylinder fail).

?????but what???? what's wrong with that???!!!!

yep, i tossed them right on top of it...har har har. i do have gauges and it's charged properly. it seems like the a/c exaccerbates the real problem, it's not the cause as far as i can tell. it'll run odd temps without the a/c as well, but haven't really tried it when it's really hot out during the day. at night, i've seen it waver and drift around some, not really high, but not normal. since i've owned like 20 XT6's, i know exactly what the temp gauge should look like and it's not normal. bizarre, bizarre, bizarre....

i'm baffled at this one. if i'm running the a/c on 90+ degree days it'll still run hot. didn't run it without a/c so don't know if it would do it otherwise. when it's 70's and 80's it's fine. new water pump, thermostat (subaru, tried multiple ones), new Subaru radiator, new hoses, no leaks, no coolant loss, heater works fine, a/c works fine, both fans cycle on, crank pulley appears fine and alternator and a/c work fine (so the belt shouldn't be slipping)....but still runs hot. bizarre, bizarre, bizarre. i'm going to check the water pump this weekend, i'm just going to pull it and replace it and compare the impellers and see if maybe they're a weak design?? seems like a stretch but not sure what else to do.

use a Subaru thermostat, they are far superior to the aftermarkets, you'll see when you get them, they're freaking monsters compared side by side. all of your fans are working properly (clutch or electric)? check your radiator hoses often and try to see if they ever collapse. i'm still tracing a hot running problem as well...i installed a new radiator, thermostat (multiple times), water pump, hoses, fans work...still running hot with a/c running. i'm going to try a new water pump since the other was an aftermarket anyway.

if you drive normally and liked the service you got out of those tires, i'd look to get the same ones again.

nice one! if you're talking about my head, then yes.

First - go check your fluid level, i would assume the trans shop did that, but if they don't know how to read a TCU code it also wouldn't surprise me if they skipped that simple check. The code can be read by anyone who knows the proper technique, i do not know it by memory but it is in the FSM (factory service manual). like nipper said, it's time to extract the code and avoid guessing. the 16 flashes is very typical to subaru, this is not a mystical device or complicated. 16 flashes is the equivalent to the "check engine light". just counting those 16 flashes tells you nothing, it always flashes 16 times when there's a TCU code. remember...the TCU has a stored code and you need to find out what it is. you can search on here for the way to flash the code (it will flash the code via the same light), have a shop do it, or have subaru do it. call around to some shops and ask them if they know how to get a subaru TCU code before you go. next time you post back, it should be to tell us the code. the sequence of extracting codes is always something nutty...turn key to "ON", some strange shifting pattern or other actions and the light will then flash the code. i got steering codes the other week..turn car "on", turn steering all the way to the left, turn all the way to the right, put in drive and travel 20 feet, turn steering wheel again....then the code(s) started flashing.

wow sounds like it could be a PITA. is there access through the trunk for this sensor like the fuel sender??? i have a 1997 impreza Subaru Factory Service Manual. would this fuel system, pressure sender be similar on a 1998 Legacy? i'll start by replacing the gas cap and check for rust on the filler pipe then start looking into this pressure sender. that explains why i couldn't find any info, never heard of those failing before.

you can top it off, it's not that big of a deal if you know what you're doing. read up about how it works and get a good feel for it. don't fill it like crazy, but if you get the basics you can do it gradually and it'll work fine. now...if it leaks, filling it won't help much. check under the two caps, two very common leakage points are the shcrader valves. if they look wet they may be leaking. they cost about 50 cents each...replacement is hairy since it takes a special tool to replace without loosing the refrigerant..but it can be done. it would be good to know if those shcrader valves are leaking anyway, so check before you or anyone else touches anything. another easy fix, which easily works on cars as new as yours is to just turn the schrader valve a little and tighten it up...a pair of needle nose pliers or the like, or a $1.00 valve tool will work as well. snug it up and that might fix a leak. but...refillling could easily last the summer or a few years, so i'd try that after looking at the schrader valves. i have gauges, vacuum puller and all that jazz but i've done plenty of other stuff and friends vehicles without as necessary with no issues. i've even replaced a/c compressors and other various parts without anything as well, or with impatient friends that are too lazy to drive to my house and tools...they've all worked fine and are going on 3-4 years old now. of course you need a basic understanding of the system, you can't just dump and go with refrigerant. but "tools" and professionals aren't necessary at all.

i've "tilted" the trans before by undoing the rear trans crossmember. i can't recall how i did it, but i'd imagine i just placed something to spread the load out, a piece of lumber or whatever seems like the first thing that would pop in my head. blunt forces and small point loads would be bad, but otherwise i'm sure the pan can take it.

friend has these codes on her Legacy sedan. i can't recall what kind it is...but i think it's a 2.5 liter. auto transmission. searched for those codes on here and didn't find anything. guys that read the code told her "Emissions Control System Sensor" and i saw them listed as "EVAP Pressure Sensor Range Problem" and "EVAP Pressure Sensor High Output".

the ignitor is the small electrical gizmo attached to the bracket with the ignition coil. that likely needs replaced. i would start there. i do not know if there's a way to test it or not, i would just swap in another one that isn't fried. i would also recommend using a stock Subaru only coil. aftermarkets are known to have problems. you are not the first one to have problems running and aftermarket coil. the easiest, most reliable and economical solution is to use a stock subaru unit and store a spare coil in the trunk, though they rarely fail if everything else is working properly.

hope all goes well hotdog!

it will not bolt up to an EJ22 without an adapter and i wouldn't adpat an EJ22 to an auto trans. not a good bet really, but it depends how much your time is worth. you can't really make enough on EA82 stuff to make it worth it. then you have the high possibility of lots of nagging issues...rust, stripped threads, exhaust studs coming out, brakes not working, etc. i've swapped a non-turbo into a turbo. it wasn't very fun and the car still isn't running. though mine is the 87-88 transition year and i suspect some issues from that.

i would stick with what you have been using. there is no benefi to switching. i prefer to keep using the same stuff so the seals and gaskets are always seeing the same additives as much as possible. don't know if that's true or not, that's just what i do. subaru's are far more prone to leakage than they are any engine wear problems, so i think in those terms rather than engine "life" or "wear". a well maintained subaru..never abused, overheated, etc.. run on conventional oil with 250,000 miles will still have all the cylinder cross hatching visible and the bearings will be in excellent condition as well. once you've pulled a few apart like that you realize these engines don't live or die based on oil choices. but they'll certainly leak easily enough! there's no benefit to playing with the oil. if you plan on owning the car for 500,000 - 1,000,000 miles then maybe it would make a difference, i haven't had any experience with engines in that category.

spark plugs should be stock NGK's. and the spark plug wires should be Subaru only, do not attempt to use other wires on this engine. not all subaru engines are like this, but in this case Subaru wires should be used. bgd, is that you?

tons of information on this board about dealing with headgasket issues. you have a few options. there are two caveats to replacing the headgaskets, it must be done properly and it must not have been run hot too much. if it was consistently run hot then significant engine damage can result. not knowing the history or the previous owner, there's no way to determine how much or how long the car was run hot like this. it would likely be fine, but you may be taking a gamble by replacing the headgaskets if the engine block is damaged. that's why i like to buy cars from the owner rather than the dealer. more info about the car...and you always get a much, much better deal too. i would check with the BBB and see how well this company rates, sounds like they've treated you quite well so far. that would be great if they'd split the cost of fixing this or something along those lines. if you install a 2.2 engine, be sure any 1997 and newer engine has a new timing belt and water pump installed and check all of the timing belt pulleys. most likely the one sprocketed idler (the one with teeth) will need replacing. 1997 and up 2.2's are interference engines, do not install one with an unknown timing belt. and besides...you'll basically be gauranteed many miles if done properly anyway. keep in mind, even with blown headgaskets that motor you have it worth $500. so if you end up replacing it, be sure to sell it to recoupe some of the costs.

i did a search and got nothing. my speedometer accelerates fine, but as soon as you hold a constant speed or let off the gas (say going down hill), and slow down the needle bounces all over the place and occassionally just drops to zero. replaced the cable twice now with no change. i'm assuming the instrument cluster needs replaced?

jacking it up has nothing to do with it. occassionally jacking it up will help them air up if they're all the way down. but that won't cause it to deflate. unless you really want the air suspension i'd suggest swapping to coil overs. the air suspension can get really crazy. don't get me wrong, i like it and i maintain it on my car, but it is not for the faint of heart. it is likely that you have a leak somewhere, eventually that will overwork your compressor and it will die...basically, it will only get worse from here on out. if you want to overhaul you air suspension there's good info on that. replace all of your o-rings, there are many of them and recondition your airbags (i have a thread in the USRM about how to do that). do that and your system will be much more reliable.

sounds like headgasket to me. i'd do everything and anything in your power to make them take it back. the previous owner got rid of the car for this very reason, they dumped it (probably traded it in), a used lot bought it at auction and now you got it. get them to take it back or fix it, that's your best option. they didn't pay very much for it, so they may even have it fixed ($1,000 - $1,500 job) if there's any warranty at all.

i guess if you're sure the final drive ratio is correct it's a waste to check, but i'd want to verify what it has versus what it should have. rotate wheels and count driveshaft rotation, it's not too hard...annoying part is just looking under the car. 10 rotations of one will give 3.9 or 4.11 turns of the other..or should? other than being off by that amount it doesn't do anything erratic, jumpy, sticking, etc? bizarre.

i wouldn't assume that whirring noise is transmission related. it could be, but at the age of this vehicle lots of bearings up front can whine. power steering pump, alternator (most likely), a/c, water pump, timing pulleys....all have bearings that can make noise. an easy test is to remove the drive belt and see if it goes away. you won't have a/c, power steering and your alternator won't be charging so you'll run straight off the batter. but if it's doing it consistently you'll know right away if it's related to any of those items. you could at least just try the alternator, i've heard plenty of whining alternators. i've seen a number of vehicles have the delay you speak of and not end up ever getting terrible worse or needing replaced. all that to say, you're doing what i would do. keep an eye out for a good deal on a trans and not assume the worst just yet. i would not get a rebuilt, not worth the cost in my oppinion of course. i wouldn't be too excited about that 97 legacy, they are nice...but they have the 2.5 HG issue engine, i got two sedans at my place right now (one with 83,000 miles)...getting new headgaskets. you're better off with your 2.2. don't run it hot and your 2.2 stands a better chance of running longer than that 97 legacy engine before loosing a headgasket.