idosubaru

Google image search picture of under hood sticker or engines online. the length and deformity of the hose, installed on parts mounted as they were originally, often tell the story. look at the ends and any mount/touch/rub,clip points. In the end it shouldn’t matter - vacuum is vacuum. The hose doesn’t know, or care, where it’s coming from. It’s like asking if you should use gas pumps facing the north or south? Doesn’t matter. if you suspect them causing issues the chief non-start cause is a loose vacuum hose that’s leaking and pulling in unmetered air. It’s usually the brake booster hose not installed, loose, cracked. So make sure none of the hoses are leaking It’s not likely to be your issue but If you suspect those vacuum hoses or want to check them, it’s not going to be their location of installation. blow out or clean the hoses in case any debris or bugs got in there during the down time. But that’s doubtful the issue. if you’re chasing rough running or misfire then diagnose that separately. A true misfire ( get a check engine light) on that is usually caused by plugs and wires or less commonly the coil pack. that engine is not very forgiving of cheap or non OEM plugs and wires. Use stock NGK plugs and NGK or OEM wires or other notable quality parts.

Ah, that’s a good bit different than the first description. If by “half” you mean halfway between low and full then that’s a nonissue. It would have to be below “Low” to incur issues. is the sound central, frontal, rear, or does it favor passenger or drivers side? In addition to Imdews suggestions first, make sure the trans pan isn’t dented even a little bit. Id scan for engine codes just to be sure. what’s the story on the timing belt? I’d pull the covers and make sure a belt pulley isn’t about to go volcanic.

Heat can help some glues. sit it out in the bright, hot sun with the windows all up and try then. A heat gun can work or if the part is removable it can be placed in an oven. I forget what temperature I use...probably in the 200 F area. There's something fun about walking past people and placing car parts in an oven. Of course if it's an epoxy type or other glue some can be nearly impossible to remove without mechanical means that are likely to do some damage.

Low trans fluid. Classic for it to rev up as the pump isn't circulating any fluid and you didn't mention any noises, additional symptoms, or CEL or flashing AT light at start up. It could be lots of other things, as this infers more information than you're giving.

do an exhaustive and continuous global search. 2000-2004 outback rear struts do sort of bolt up and are the right form factor, although they're intended to be bolted up flush at 90/180 square angles, not the 45 degree angle of the XT rear strut top mount. for this, there are vague references to issues with bending/breaking i think of the top of the strut when this is attempted. whether this was caused by something else or could be remedied I don't know, those folks didn't share a ton of details. but any air suspension which fits those, will have a nearly identical form factor for XT's. if "stock" means a custom air suspension system which is anything but stock, then it'll largely depending on how much you're willing to spend, how much trial and error and custom work is acceptable. No one has ever done it or, if they have, shared any usable information about it. so it'll be hard to get any information at all, not to mention information for a specific price tag, welding skills, machining skills, parts functionality, etc. Sort through the aftermarket suppliers and see what level of cost/customizing you're comfortable with.

That’s a great rate for someone that’s doing it right and knows subarus and won’t badger you into full valve jobs/rebuilds.

In general EJ struts bolt up to EJ vehicles. You don’t remove spacers or sway bars. It’s really easy - remove EJ strut and install another EJ strut mark the top one of the two lower strut mount bolts as it adjusts alignment. ReInstall it in the same orientation. if it’s a significant height change an alignment may be necessary. But if it’s not you won’t notice a difference.

You didn’t tell us what car you’re lifting or what you’re installing the Forester struts into? I’m assuming you mentioned something in another thread. Go ahead and mention exact vehicle details and what you’re trying to do in each thread you start. Some people haven’t seen the other threads, some won’t remember, we can remember incorrectly, or those working on many Subarus a week wont even try to keep track.

Yep, cleaning splines rarely gets all the scale out anyway, will be pushing through some of it so might as well save time and yank it through.

This. clean up hard edges and snags enough to fit the HLA. I wouldn’t do any more work in that area than necessary, it’s not critical besides fixing the HLA in place.

Forester struts are tall. they’re not substantially different from outback. Impreza have the same tire issues as legacy. i dont know how different 95-99, 00-04 outback and Forester are.

Ive looked forever and need the same thing and no one seems to know, there’s no information out there. what I’m currently looking into is installing legacy springs (if they’re shorter) on outback struts. But again no one knows. legacy struts are shorter but the lower spring perch is lower and won’t allow outback size tires. So struts can’t be swapped onto an otherwise stock outback. if you only need shorter struts then legacy will work. if you need shorter struts and outback sized tires then legacy won’t work or use legacy and buy smaller tires. Someone suggested 00 outback have less ground clearance than 03 outback and the struts are the same so the spring must be shorter. I ordered a set, It was the opposite. The 00 springs from Subaru were crazy long - a full 12”, longer than any Subaru spring Ive seen.

doesn't matter. engines are the same, minor vacuum hose differences, and i think all, or most, US EA82's have EGR but even if they did't that's a minor work around.

oh right, intake has to match the heads - there is single port and multi port, and i think turbo is always multi port? if they're different, then swap the heads to match. or swap the entire long block and have the turbo pistons or swap the turbo pistons into the non-turbo block (don't have to split the block to do this), and swap heads at the same time. if you keep them low boost they can do fine, but they won't be forgiving at all with any cooling, oil, or turbo bearing/boost issues. the second you have issues, shut it down. they're really low output for a turbo as well, so it ends up being a lot of work for low performance old school turbo.

You can unbolt the 2 bolts that hold the cable to the passengers side of the transmission. Then you can just push/pry the lever with any suitable tool forward and backward. That at least makes it useable for testing if needed. Gloyale (i think this is before he changed his user name) has some great info, probably in one of those links about how it works. It's probably vaccum related (clogged, leak) or the diaphrahm/cable is frozen/stuck. Or electrical - button, wiring,etc.

pretty common with used axles and dirty splines too, hard to get started sometimes. i've even filed the corrosion out of the splines, but prying/smashing them in makes much more sense time-wise!

Yes but it’s not practical for average car duties. Depends on your goals and needs Youll need to do a ton of wiring work. Other than that it’ll all bolt up and install easily. Install entire instake manifold harness and intake snorkel/exhaust onto the NA engine and you’re done. Basically all bolt up stuff. So mechanically it’s relatively speaking, easy. Taking a 30 year old rather archaic engine (by design and history) and putting an equally archaic turbo system on that high compression thing, is highly risky with a high potential to not go well. EA82turbos are labor intensive to keep reliable and without imploding anyway, adding them to a high compression EA82.... as a project and learning experience you might get to drive - have at it. as a daily driver, only necessary vehicle, or for a good performance-risk-cost ratio it’s a poor choice

This. Isn’t much access or options here. GD always says to cut the oil filter open and see how much metal, swirl or other oddities you find there. You’ll get to see the contents of the bottom of the pan, that’s about it. Which can probably be addressed without pulling it.

I’ve not been able to replace rocker arms with the engine in the car, without removing the carrier. The HLAs compress, so conceivably it’s possible with the right tooling or approach. If you make one I’d love to rent it lol

Good to know. I’ve had a couple where the door wouldn’t completely close/latch and turned the dome light off too. Do those have an instrument cluster open door diagram? XTs have a picture of the car and show which door is open, which is kind of funny for it being only a two door. I can’t recall if that still lights when the car is off.

no, the manuals next to it did. It’s been a few years but EA82 key codes on the door lock cylinders were 5 digit numeric codes with no letters and the locksmith only needed 4 of them. A good locksmith would probably know if you needed to find out. Ask if it could be a potential key code for an 80s Subaru.

Thanks Dave my XTs have that same auto seat belts and I’ve seen battery and seat belt issues before. When you say “slightly open” do you mean the dome light is on kind of open, or something else?

yep - i've done a bunch of them. 100% success rate. the OEM axles are beast. the clicking is only from either the grease getting old or being lost. cut the boot open and if the grease is all liquid-y, like water and pours everywhere then clean and regrease and you're golden. - if the boot is already cracked or has leaked before then there simply isn't enough grease in it. i had two bust at 10,000 feet elk hunting in colorado running through trails and slogging mud all up in them and i could barely tow my trailer 2,000 miles home - i had to keep varying speeds and the rear view mirror was nearly useless it was vibrating so bad, and i tried packing grease into the open joints twice but it would sling out after 50 miles. made it home, rebooted them, and those two axles are now running on a forum members old gen subaru here. that was 10 years ago. wash, rinse, repeat. no big deal. either way - clean and repack and you're right back to where it was before the grease degraded and they're golden. the idea that CV axles are "bad" and have "failed" once clicking is heard or a boot is cracked doesn't hold true for subarus. there are viable reasons mechanics need one size fits all solutions and comments to the general un-mechanically inclined public like "it's clicking, the axle is bad, we replace them" - which the general public then translates to fact when it's not. the general public is fine changing oil ever 3,000 or 5,000 miles - then tacitly excepts that axle grease should last a half a century and never need changed. once you've seen a few and done it - it's really obvious the grease just needs changed like engine oil. this is true of Subaru OEM axles. I'm not making this claim for any other manufacturer as I focus on Subaru's almost exclusively.

totally get it. I was also making the point that if buying any aftermarket axle, it’s helpful to know that what you’re describing is totally normal. Zero surprise. Makes it easier to decide to return them, since that’s normal, rather than thinking it’s some oddity you need to work through.

Definitely keep that one. It’ll be fine if you just clean, regrease and reboot it. OEM axles are excellent quality and durability. Every old or noisy OEM joint I’ve cleaned/regressed/rebooted has ran perfectly quite. if you’ve hard core off-roaded and beat the snot out of it on welded diffs then maybe the axle is trash..