idosubaru

that's awesome info, thanks.

got it. thanks!

if someone knows and can PM or email me their mailing address that would be swell. i have a bunch of axles i wanted to get in the mail today. i forgot to ask for their address yesterday when i spoke to him.

pilot bearing or throwout bearing may be all you need. those are easy and are part of the clutch system and typically come with a clutch kit, i replace them with every clutch. if it's an input shaft bearing, that'll be inside the case and will require disassembling the transmission. i thumbed through some threads on here using the search function in the past year and got some good information for a friend of mine. i recall reading some information on diagnosing different trans/clutch related bearing noises, you might want to try to find those threads with the search.

exhaust work may depend on what kind of driving is done. on highway, country driving, an AWD automatic XT6 with a straight through muffler helps a good deal. the stock XT6 mufflers suck, not sure about others. i've swapped out cats, hollowed out the cat, installed high flow cats, custom headers, run straight pipe only, aftermarket mufflers and stock mufflers. with all the different exhaust set ups i've had it fairs best for my type of driving with just a simple muffler swap. all that other stuff provided unnoticeable gains or even losses (straight pipe). a simple google search would probably aid alot too.

scroll down to the bottom of the screen right now, on the very bottom left hand corner the site is showing threads similar to yours. use the search function to look up "performance", start by looking in thread titles only, then search the entire thread in the older generation forum. it's been covered extensively. most will tell you that an EA82 isn't really worth the time, 88hp instead of 80. cams are available - delta cams makes them for the EA82 - tons of information on them on this site. intake and exhaust is essentially build your own. remove the water coolant lines from the throttle body, switch to MPFI, get a spider manifold, loose your p/s and a/c, get an aluminum pulley...alot of work and loss of comfort and functionality to make a slow car a little less slow. i would avoid aftermarket coils, they cause problems and don't add anything. paint your existing coil red or yellow if that's what you're after!

i know this works if you drive more freeway/country driving. city mileage may be the opposite and different vehicles would have better results than others, i don't know. now that the disclaimer has been said, you can gain significant mileage by using larger wheels/tires. larger rolling diameter allows you to travel further with the same number of rotations. of course there's a limit because as the wheel/tire combo increases there are losses to be had as well, but i've done it and gotten good gains. you have to do some detailed calculating though because your speedometer will be off...and it's inaccurate to begin with. so it's hard to get accurate numbers. your odometer will no longer show the actual distance you're traveling...you'll be going further, so you'll have to figure a way to determine how far you're really traveling. skinniest and lowest rolling resistance tires you can install as well. but if you're doing this for $, then buying a set of dedicated tires won't fit the bill. but next set you get, you could down size to thinner tires. although EA81's are already insanely thin aren't they? remove as much unnecessary weight as possible from the vehicle. there's a complete thread about reducing the weight of an XT6 over at xt6.net, with some interesting ideas.

are you looking for stock spec's or performance grind spec's? you might want to have deltacams do the work for you. they have done alot of subaru work and are very famliar with cam grinds for the EA82.

Zapar, Imdew just mentioned that there are two types of 04 WRX springs, he said there are tapered and non-tapered varieties. do you know which one you used?

first - make sure it actually needs a bearing. just because someone says it does, doesn't make them right. machine shops i've taken them too will do the bearings for $50 a hub. you remove and reinstall the hub and save labor costs and dealing with mechanics. if money is an issue and the condition of the car is unknown, install a used hub. you can buy used hubs for $25-$40 easily. someone on here can probably send you one for cheap. if money is an issue it is better to do that than put $100+ into a car that ends up overheating, breaking down, needs a clutch....etc. you're not overly concerned about replacing the bearings in the "good" hubs right, so get another one just like it from a yard!

sounds relevant to me, "missing something" was what i was doing over and over and over.....

not a bad idea to check, mine never had anything go wrong that i would expect to burn the fusible links, was random as far as i could tell. all the wiring was green and nasty. crumbly bits and green stuff on the wires are bad. the outer colored sheaths don't mean anything, try to get a peak inside.

like me, you won't forget to check that real good next time, grr!

that article talks about MY series. what is that? any EA81? i have a friend with an EA81 hatch that i gave some seats to, he might be able to use that.

don't diagnose the fans without the thermostat in. if the T's are staying low, it won't ever get hot enough for the fans to kick in. so you'd end up wiring in a switch you never needed. test the fans with the thermostat in place and when the engine is hot. i saw two thermosensors in my garage, i can send you one if you'd like. i've seen two different kinds, one has a small length of wire and an electrical connector and the other type has no wire and just some prongs that a plastic clip plugs into. not sure why there are two types, but it's easier to make sure you get the right one. i think i have both, if you want one of my spares, let me know which one you have and i can send one to you.

nice, looks great. they look so much better off the ground.

how many miles? the difference between 80,000 and 250,000 is a big one. with reasonable miles and in good running condition this is a great car. these will run forever and being SPFI and manual trans, there aren't really any reliability issues with this vehicle. age is a concern, any radiator or hoses that are original are over 15 years old and need or will need replacement at some point. but these are minor issues that preventative maintenance and a thorough checking take care of. it would sell for $500 - $1,500 depending on many variables. if i was looking for a good deal and didn't need it, i'd offer $200. if i had a friend that really needed the car i'd pay up to $1,000 for it if it's in decent shape...rust, mileage, etc.

that's it!!!! wow! i think i scored an XT6 cable at xt6.net so i should be golden. good info, thanks!

i'd do a search like nipper said. i've had good luck replacing the older gen stuff, but never had to do a newer gen yet (unlike HEEPS which i work on far, far less). if i did, i would look into replacing them with greaseable joints. including parts you can have all the ujoints replaced for about $200. $100 in parts and $100 in labor when i've had it done. i've done it on older generation subarus without issues. have a driveline specialty shop do it. a general automotive machine shop can do it, but a driveline shop has far more experience with these and will know how to properly set the yoke distance where a generic auto machine shop typically won't do that. maybe they could look at it and let you know what they think. the easiest solution with less downtime is getting a used driveshaft. in my oppinion they don't fail enough to warrant lots of effort and hassle. and they usually give lots of warning signs, so it won't leave you stranded if somehow it did start going bad. but even more important, if you inspect it prior to buying it you can get one in excellent condition that likely won't give you any problems anyway. find one locally so you can go feel it before buying, make sure it doesn't have any lumps in it. if the joins move freely and smoothly you're golden. if they're lumpy, stick or have tight spots, don't buy it. be selective and this will likely be the last one you buy. make sure when you replace the driveshaft the input shaft that slides into the transmission is clean and doesn't have any rust on it. they rust quickly when removed. that input shaft rotates inside a seal, so you want a nice clean smooth surface. and be careful of that rear seal on the transmission when you're pulling the driveshaft out and reinstalling, don't band it up unnecessarily. it would be hard to mess it up, but i've seen them leak before after driveshaft removal.

whoops, i was talking to connie about her cooling and other XT6 issues, i was reading and typing too fast this morning. yes it was the fusible link, in the box next to the battery. the fusible link for the power steering is the closest one to the front of the engine bay. definitely the first thing to check, and the fuse in the fuse panel box as well. for the fusible link, be sure to pull it out and look. sometimes they look and feel fine sitting there but fall apart when you go to remove them. i had glanced it over and did a quick check first thing when i started looking into this but made the mistake of not actually removing it. but if you haven't looked at anything else yet, do not expect to find your steering issues here. 95 times out of 100 the brushes need replaced or the internal pump housing needs cleaned out.

thanks dave! automatics are the same - even 3AT and 4EAT? manual and auto's are different? i thought i remembered my EA82 MT's being different, but they're in another state so i can't check.

I'm almost positive the manual trans cables are identical. anyone know if the XT6 automatic speedo cables are the same as EA82 manual trans cables?

Yes it did receive the power steering recall. i can almost garauntee that cleaning out your pump will get your steering working. a better bet is to clean it and replace the brushes ($15). if that's not the issue then the next most likely item is the power controller....but 9 out of 10 times cleaning and replacing the brushes is the fix. as for my issues - fusible link. it appeared together, but as i wiggled it, it fell to pieces. steering now works perfectly. thanks for the help all.

i have manual steering now, and it's really hard. harder than a manual steering rack would be. not a huge deal, but in town driving is less safe i feel and more importantly my wife can't drive it like that. it's not constant power. it varies power assist based on driver input (4 different modes) and speed. but i could choose a constant power assist..i would need to reduce the amps or something though. 12 volts straight from the battery all the time would ruin the pump in short order i am told.

dual port EJ22 was standard in 95, so yours is normal factory stuff. might be too late in the game, but make sure the clutch is properly adjusted, the shifter linkages aren't shot and change/check your trans gear oil. drain and refill. lack of oil in it is bad. tiny metal flakes in it is bad. chunks of metal in it is also bad. are you sure it's the transmission and not the clutch? sounds about right to me that it's the trans, but just making sure.